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Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque: compare with Cuir de Lancome and Cuir Ottoman

post #1 of 23
12/29/10 at 3:03pm
Thread Starter 
I am looking at another leather scent, and Cuir Ottoman and Cuir de Lancome are two of my all-time favourites. (Add Habit Rouge for another.)

How does the spice (cumin and cinnamon) play into the Cuir Mauresque? I like leather florals: the iris in Ottoman and the jasmine in Lancome.

I would appreciate any input.
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post #2 of 23
12/29/10 at 10:55pm
tuscan leather?
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post #3 of 23
12/29/10 at 11:47pm
Cuir Ottoman and Cuir de Lancome are almost akin to one another. I find both to be buttery soft, ambery leathers with birch tar playing a (satisfyingly) prominent role. Their main differences are just as you mentioned: orris in CO and jasmine in CdL.

Cuir Mauresque is more in line with Knize Ten and, to a lesser extent, Santa Maria Novella's Spanish Leather. The driving force being from pyralone and/or styrax. These leathers present themselves as more 'dry' and 'chapped' -a bit more austere than the supple, buttery leather of Cuir Ottoman and Cuir de Lancome.

The spices in Cuir Mauresque are seamlessly blended to the point of being non-descript which serves as a great background to the overall fragrance. The first top note that emerges is a bright orange-rind note, then the dry, slightly powdery leather follows and persists through. Amber and mild spices form the base minus the usual sticky sweetness found in alot of Lutens frags.
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post #4 of 23
12/30/10 at 2:26am
The Cuir mauresque is beautifully floral on me. Unfortunatly the new formulation (square export bottle) tend to be an heavy leather with sirupy sweet accord... I have compared the two in the same time (one on each arm), the start is the same but after a few minutes the export was heavy and "bubblegum-ish" when the bell jar test developed a neroli note, creamy floral (there is jasmin) and leather became more dry. I just did a test one time (i dont own the export bottle) so maybe i'm wrong but that's what i experienced,was disappointed.
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post #5 of 23
12/30/10 at 2:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mon-Petit View Post

The Cuir mauresque is beautifully floral on me. Unfortunatly the new formulation (square export bottle) tend to be an heavy leather with sirupy sweet accord... I have compared the two in the same time (one on each arm), the start is the same but after a few minutes the export was heavy and "bubblegum-ish" when the bell jar test developed a neroli note, creamy floral (there is jasmin) and leather became more dry. I just did a test one time (i dont own the export bottle) so maybe i'm wrong but that's what i experienced,was disappointed.

So, I'm happy to own the bell jar then. I have come to think there is a difference in the two versions (where they exist - Chergui e.g.). Cuir Mauresque is the only one mentioned here that I enjoy. It does not work in summery conditions IMO. Its mandarine (am I right without checking now?) prominent opening is quite daring and may put your patience a bit to the test, but what remains is a very satisfying leather scent. It is by far not my favorite, but very nice indeed!
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post #6 of 23
12/30/10 at 3:25am
GREAT snynopsis Manuel - well done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manuel View Post

Cuir Ottoman and Cuir de Lancome are almost akin to one another. I find both to be buttery soft, ambery leathers with birch tar playing a (satisfyingly) prominent role. Their main differences are just as you mentioned: orris in CO and jasmine in CdL.

Cuir Mauresque is more in line with Knize Ten and, to a lesser extent, Santa Maria Novella's Spanish Leather. The driving force being from pyralone and/or styrax. These leathers present themselves as more 'dry' and 'chapped' -a bit more austere than the supple, buttery leather of Cuir Ottoman and Cuir de Lancome.

The spices in Cuir Mauresque are seamlessly blended to the point of being non-descript which serves as a great background to the overall fragrance. The first top note that emerges is a bright orange-rind note, then the dry, slightly powdery leather follows and persists through. Amber and mild spices form the base minus the usual sticky sweetness found in alot of Lutens frags.
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post #7 of 23
12/30/10 at 7:03am
I purchased a bell bottle of CM this summer and I've been really it and that's saying a lot given I sold my Knize's. It is in the same vein as Knize and Gomma, but I've worn it at least 10 times to understand its differences. The opening is very heavy on cinnamon but is seamlessly blended, not in your face like Rousse. I also find a good amount of civet present -- always a good thing! The spices do calm down and then iris and jasmine play a major part in the heart. I did not know the notes prior to wearing CM, and lo and behold, jasmine and iris are there. The long drydown is probaby where it all goes weird -- it turns to Ambre Sultan -- on my skin anyways -- it stays in the Knize theme on clothes. This is a very unique leather that I highly recommend, and one to that needs to sprayed with abandon to fully encompass in its holy leatheriness!
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post #8 of 23
12/30/10 at 7:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mon-Petit View Post

Unfortunatly the new formulation (square export bottle) tend to be an heavy leather with sirupy sweet accord... I have compared the two in the same time (one on each arm), the start is the same but after a few minutes the export was heavy and "bubblegum-ish" when the bell jar test developed a neroli note, creamy floral (there is jasmin) and leather became more dry. I just did a test one time (i dont own the export bottle) so maybe i'm wrong but that's what i experienced,was disappointed.

Yikes! This is bad news indeed!
I didn't mention above that the Cuir Mauresque I own is in the bell jar. I hope they don't try tinkering around with the formula if they ever decide to export Sarrasins.
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post #9 of 23
12/30/10 at 11:38am
Thread Starter 
Thank you all for your kind comments and recommendations. I do look forward to sampling CM and now know there is a difference in the new and old formulations.
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post #10 of 23
12/30/10 at 12:17pm
Thread Starter 
I have a mind now to get a friend to buy me a bell jar in Paris!

How would you rank your preferences of CM, CO and CdL? I know preferences are very personal, but I'd like to see who prefers what.
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post #11 of 23
1/3/11 at 8:04pm
Thread Starter 
I sampled this and it is very much like the beloved Knize Ten. The top notes a little more floral and sweeter.

The sample was the export version, but I get a lot of nice leather with florals, and none of the sugary sweetness some people get.

Two thumbs way up!
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post #12 of 23
1/3/11 at 8:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Primrose View Post

I sampled this and it is very much like the beloved Knize Ten. The top notes a little more floral and sweeter.

The sample was the export version, but I get a lot of nice leather with florals, and none of the sugary sweetness some people get.

Two thumbs way up!

That's great to hear Primrose! It is probably the subtle nuances from Knize Ten that made me purchase it. In the end, the Knize was too petroly and brash even for me. I don't get any sweetness from CM, just an dry, herbal amber towards the end that is awesome.
BTW, I've read that Knize Ten Golden Edition is identical to CM. I had that one but sold it a year ago and now I can't remember! In the words of Homer Simpson...DOPE!!!!
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post #13 of 23
1/3/11 at 8:57pm
I am not a great leather fan, but I very much appreciate Cuir de Lancome, which is a real gem.
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post #14 of 23
1/11/11 at 10:04pm
Thanks for the synopsis, Manuel.

I think Cuir Mauresque belongs to small subset of leather frags that are done with a large doughy iris note as opposed to the birch tar or oily ptachouli that usually creates a leather note. It's the same doughy iris/fennel seed/heliotrope suede note used in L'Heure Bleue and even Mitsouko (at least the current EDP and extrait, which are the versions I know), so I think it has a more feminine appeal. It's in there at the top with Knize Ten and Creed's Royal English Leather as a leather for people who aren't necessarily leather fans.
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post #15 of 23
1/12/11 at 5:24am
I find the new export version of CM has been tampered-with. It starts out the same, but then it turns thin and sweet. This has probably something to do with IFRA's restrictions on birch tar. Yes, it is closer to Knize and Etro's Gomma (a truly under appreciated gem) than it is to Cuir de Lancome - which is quite transparent for a leather themed fragrance - no fruit and spice there. It can be found quite cheaply on line. For orange and leather, one of those made in heaven matches, there's Cuir d'Oranger by Miller Harris.
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post #16 of 23
1/12/11 at 5:51am
Quote:
I find the new export version of CM has been tampered-with. It starts out the same, but then it turns thin and sweet. This has probably something to do with IFRA's restrictions on birch tar.

Thanks for the info, it's maybe for that i think the new miss a "burnt and dry" leather note.

Gomma is really excellent too and for a reasonnable price, he makes an excellent leather choice.
There is Parfumerie Générale - Bois de copaïba who shares many similitudes with CM (and l'heure bleue).
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post #17 of 23
1/12/11 at 6:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by CorruptedSanity View Post

tuscan leather?

Mmmm...Tuscan Leather is fabulous. And love Gomma! Just bought a bottle of Cuir de Lancome (which may have arrived at office) and I'm planning on a bottle of Cuir Ottoman shortly. On a serious leather kick myself. Haven't tried Cuir Mauresque...dying to do so.
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post #18 of 23
1/12/11 at 9:17am
Thread Starter 
I find the CM to be a dry leather. (I have only tried the import version.) I actually get a chypre vibe from it. Very similar to Knize Ten.

The CO and the CdL are more floral. At the price of CM, however, the Cuir de Lancome offers more bang for the buck.
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post #19 of 23
1/12/11 at 9:45am
According to the UPS, my bottle of Cuir Ottoman is out for delivery. Hope I like it!
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post #20 of 23
1/12/11 at 1:31pm
Cuir Ottoman arrived. I am happy. The leather note is similar to Knize Ten I would say.
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post #21 of 23
1/12/11 at 1:39pm
Cuir Ottoman is the way to go IMO.
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post #22 of 23
1/12/11 at 1:44pm
Go with Cuir Mauresque.
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post #23 of 23
1/12/11 at 1:49pm
I'm going to have to get a sample of Cuir Mauresque!
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