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Chanel no.5 parfum. Current BNers widsom?

post #1 of 27
3/14/11 at 6:46pm
Thread Starter 
As a newbie, I've never smelled Chanel No. 5 parfum (shame on me). I've been tempted to buy the smallest size ($100), but have been always discouraged by LT and TS's negative assessment, which was confirmed in a search for past threads here on BN.

But I wanted an update. What is the wisdom of BNers about the current reformulation? Is it true that the balance is off (more amber, less flowers)? Is it bottle-worthy? I am talking here about the parfum, not the other concentrations, which can be smelled pretty much everywhere.

cacio
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post #2 of 27
3/14/11 at 8:15pm
I can't say I've spent a lot of time comparing them because I only sampled modern No.5 parfum once. It's so easy to source vintage parfum that I wouldn't waste the money on modern. If you need help sourcing vintage drop me a note.
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post #3 of 27
3/14/11 at 10:16pm
I like the Chanel No. 5 EDT. That is just me.

At $100, I would sniff first.
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post #4 of 27
3/21/11 at 7:36pm
The last time I smelt a new Chanel No. 5 parfum was in a Chanel boutique in London late last year and it smelt pretty good to me. I have a Chanel No. 5 parfum which I purchased around (96 or 97; I was 11 at the time! LOL) so I'm pretty sure that what I have is pretty vintage-y. It is much more sensual than the other concentrations (bar the vintage EDC), and much more heavier on the ylang-ylang, sandalwood and civet (in fact it's a very close sibling to Bois des Iles). While I don't remember exactly how the new parfum smelt, I remember that it was pretty close to the one I had. Hope this helps.
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post #5 of 27
3/21/11 at 8:21pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks. Yes, it must be before and after - the breakpoint must have happened between the old and the new edition of the AZ guide, so around 2007-2008. LT and TS claim that the new version that they purchased (somewhere in London) is less floral and more ambery than the pre-reformulation version (which could be explained by a restriction on jasmine). They still say it's good, though not as good as the previous version, and in addition quite close to Baghari.

But from what you say, it seems it's still worth it (or perhaps, it was just a bad batch).

cacio
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post #6 of 27
3/22/11 at 5:11am
I have No 5 parfum circa 2010 . I adore it and it's still a worthy beast . But I would suggest sampling first no matter what.

The parfum is perhaps , closest to the EDT- for comparisons' sake but still quite it's own character. I found the floral aspect to be quite ample but then again, I have not smelt vintage (last parfum I bought was early 1990s till the new 2010 bottle I purchased )

However I still swoon over the parfum version 2010 and plan on purchasing more. On my skin however , the perfume lasts just 2 -3 hours maximum- I have scent eating skin though.
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post #7 of 27
3/22/11 at 6:10am
Thread Starter 
Thanks! It seems it's still worthy, whether it's better or worse than before the reformulation.

I like the EDT - but on me it last literally less than half an hour. So 2-3 hours would be an improvement. (though in case I don't plan to wear it often, it's more a reference to smell on occasions.)

cacio
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post #8 of 27
3/22/11 at 6:34am
Cacio - do give the parfum a good chance. It's some of the best you 'll ever smell IMHO . I love it !
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post #9 of 27
3/22/11 at 12:39pm
I must agree with what Mimi says... Sample first, but to me (I have a small decant of the vintage juice), modern juice is still worth it... But what can I say...
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post #10 of 27
3/24/11 at 7:23pm
What Mimi said! It is lovely. I am sure the current parfum smells less "raw" than the vintage version but it is still a beautiful fragrance.
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post #11 of 27
7/7/12 at 9:11pm
Thread Starter 
Resurrecting because a few days ago I finally smelled the current parfum (a spraytester at a duty free - first time I see a no 5 parfum tester). The top is an aldehydic bomb - this is probably a case where dabbing is best). But then on my skin it remains resolutely clean and crisp, very "soapy", more so than the other concentrations. Sadly, I do not get much florals, especially, I do not get much jasmine, nor civet. In the deep drydown, my nose plays trick and I get a lot of heliotropin, though likely it must be the combination of a white musk with something else (vanilla?).

Unfortunately, I have not smelled vintage, so I wouldn't know how it compares.

cacio
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post #12 of 27
7/10/12 at 6:14am
Finally, I can contribute something here and help you all for your recommendations to me on hot weather perfumes.

I LOVE Chanel No 5 - the REAL No. 5. I just smells like nothing else. The new No. 5 smells kind of like the old one, but with a piece missing - if you know what I mean. It's not so much like they re-formulated it, as they just left some things out when they made up the batch. It seems to me like they left out the floral heart of the perfume and you're left with just the base of it.

The old No. 5 is infinitely better, but having said that, the new No.5 is not that bad, and if you've never smelled the old one you'll probably like it. But if you're used to the old one, like me, you're going to feel something is missing.

BTW - Im thinking of layering the new No 5 with Tauer Rose Cyphre. That perfume comes closest to smelling like the missing part of No. 5 so Im thinking they might work well together. Anyone have an opinion?
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post #13 of 27
7/10/12 at 6:26am
I own both vintage and a very new bottle of Chanel 5 parfum. I love them both. They seem more like winter/summer versions to me in a way. The older lady is a bit deeper, a bit more floral, but it is a warm floral. The newer version tends to a bit of amber, but to me it is a "cooler" scent. It lifts off my skin more.

They both vanish on me so so fast. I have experimented with layering the new one over an old, strong rose essential oil and loved the results.

To me, yes, it is worth owning the new one. But it is an extragavance since it does not last long. It is more for personal pleasure. I sniff the skin of my wrists off when wear both the old and new.
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post #14 of 27
7/10/12 at 6:57am
Thread Starter 
Thank-you both for the comments, they make a lot of sense. I'd have imagined too a little bit more flowers and depth, not just aldehydic cleanliness. With IFRA and jasmine out of the picture, I guess that's what can be done ...

The parfum had decent longevity on me, though not by parfum standards. (The EDT rather goes away in no time on me).

Interesting about rose chypre... either I have a bad sample or I am hypersensitive to some note, but to my nose, rose chypree has a "tauerade" base that overwhelms whatever rose is in there (same as with orange star). I wouldn't imagine this in no 5. (Tauer's floral of reference, for me, has become Miriam). Rather, if it's jasmine and the flowers that are missing, I wonder about a touch of joy, or simply of old jasmine stuff like a la nuit ...

cacio
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post #15 of 27
7/10/12 at 7:52am
Yes , Cacio - the florals are a bit fleeting in the parfum - I also found this ...even though what little rose and jasmine are in the parfum do smell sublime.

I bought some No 5 extrait in the last six months and find it differs from my 2010 bottle. Less floral , more amber - as KarmaLee has said. In fact, it reminds me more of the EDP than the EDT now. I hope this is my imagination !

Also I think No .5 parfum does well being sprayed -though more of it used per spray, no doubt.

PS. I love Une Rose Chypree but I have never tried to two together layered- maybe I should do this and get back to you .

- - - Updated - - -

This afternoon I put on my 2010 Chanel No .5 parfum extrait and let it dry down . Then I dabbed some Une Rose Chypree on top of it directly ( I have the old version 15 ml bottle that unscrews so got some out that way instead of spraying )

At first even though dabbed , Une Rose Chypree is actually pretty strong stuff and wiped out No .5 extrait completely. As it settled down though, the two do seem to complement each other nicely. The geranium and the 'tauerade' is still quite noticeable over and above the No .5 ,to me.
I would say layered together it 's a good combo but I would rather appreciate both scents separately rather than together. No .5 a more 'delicate' fragrance than Une Rose Chypree with somewhat less heft.
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post #16 of 27
7/10/12 at 4:57pm
Just one more thing for Cacio - to me No 5 was very floral, but more rose than jasmin. Jasmin was in there, but very subdued. What I mean is layering with A La Nuit or Joy or some other strong jasmin scent, might give you something that smells nice, but it wouldnt be close to the old No. 5.

But having said that - what I loved about it was everything blended so well - what you smelled was a delicate blend of everything, rather than any one note - if that makes any kind of sense.
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post #17 of 27
7/10/12 at 7:37pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the comments!

I see we have similar ideas about rose chypree. to my nose the Tauerade is so strong that I imagined it would wrestle smoother No 5 into submission.

And interesting about the jasmine. Wisdom is, the reformulation was due to it, so it means that either the jasmine was so well blended as not to stand out too much, or that IFRA's restrictions are truly draconian (or, more likely, both).

In any case, I just dabbed a little old no 5 parfum from a damaged and nearly empty bottle I got at an antique store. It's hard to compare because of the damage (and because most of it likely evaporated). The aldehydes are clearly gone in great part (though some soap still remains). The jasmine is evident, but this could be due to the fact that other notes are not there anymore.

cacio
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post #18 of 27
7/10/12 at 8:22pm
If you want to see if some store near you still has some old stock look at the ingredients on the box. If it ends with evernia prunastri (oak moss) extract - that's the old one. Some small drug store or maybe some little used airport shop might still have some left.
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post #19 of 27
7/10/12 at 9:12pm
Re. oakmoss - it's still listed on the boxes of No. 5 extrait but very low down . It must be a minute amount a la the IFRA's tight restrictions because I can hardly smell it.
Interesting thread from 2009
http://www.basenotes.net/threads/239...-Reformulation
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post #20 of 27
7/10/12 at 10:44pm
I did a layering experiment of my own just now - Im still trying to find a perfume for summer heat - [got loads of suggestions - waiting on samples] - so a friend of mine gave me her samples of some Acqua di Parma stuff. I put on Arancia di Calabria this morning - initially liked it, by afternoon I was sick of smelling it [all AdP that I tried had good staying power - I wish scents I like more would last this long!] - so I thought - what to do - and remembering this discussion I got out the new No 5 and put a little on.

I think it goes well together - it gives the Chanel more brightness and a little lift - anyway, I liked it. It encourages me to experiment some more.
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post #21 of 27
7/10/12 at 10:53pm
Chanel No.5 is so nice. I only know the newer version, but it smells great on the test strip and other people. Not so great on my skin, though, so I wear No.19 Poudre and No. 22 is nice, too.
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post #22 of 27
7/11/12 at 9:46am
That's o.k about No.5, heavenscent, 22 is beeyootiful too! Haven't yet tried the 19 Poudre, will do soon.

I only know the current No.5 concentrations as well and have been glad for that, as I have learned to love the scent without any anguish over what it used to be. But I will be trying some 1980's extrait soon, so I may end up in tears after all. I too, find the longevity of current extrait to be a bunch of hooey. I mean, not even an hour on me! But it does have the prettiest aldehydes in all the land. I do get the florals (briefly!) but my nose smells them blended, not more of one than the other. Love it-just wish it lasted longer!

Ultimately, I wear EDT & EDP more often. EDT is the concentration that gives me the most civet. I pick jasmine out clearly in both EDP & EDT. EDP seems more incense-y on me and turns almost to a leathery iris in the drydown. I don't even get a drydown with the extrait!
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post #23 of 27
7/11/12 at 1:58pm
Perfumedlady - I know- the longevity of No .5 parfum is frustrating, don't you think ? I could blow through that 15 ml bottle so quickly . I wonder why the longevity is poor ?
No .22 in extrait is a longevity beast !
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post #24 of 27
7/11/12 at 2:47pm
It's bang-your-head-against-a-wall frustrating, Mimi! I hadn't owned the extrait before the bottle I bought earlier this year. This is so bad- I did blow through half of it just trying to figure out if it was olfactory fatigue or if it was really that fleeting!

I don't get it either; Chanel is typically one house I can count on for outstanding longevity. Have even worn No.5 in EDT for an evening out and still detected it the next morning. No issues with EDP, either.
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post #25 of 27
7/11/12 at 9:04pm
Thread Starter 
Regarding the longevity, I wonder if IFRA plus unavailability of ingredients is a reason. Again, jasmine is severely restricted, and jasmine tends to be a persistent floral. Restricted are also other substances we don't even know about. In addition, sandalwood is now pretty much unavailable, and if sandalwood was the base of the old no 5, we're in trouble again. After all, they cannot really switch to a patchouli drydown, as it happens instead with modern chypres. As I mentioned before, longevity of the extrait was better than Edt and edp for me, but curiously, the drydown of the current version gave me the impression of heliotropin, believe it or not. Which is restricted too. (The damaged vintage I had did not seem to develop this note though, remaining more ambery-white musky).

cacio
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post #26 of 27
7/11/12 at 9:08pm
Cacio -I know what you mean by' impression of heliotrope'. What I get and did get in even earlier versions of No .5 parfum was a smooth skin like ,slightly powdery ,slightly buttery smell especially on first spray . I don't even know if I am explaining myself well or correctly but I love that smell. It's quite intimate. Hard to explain but kind of reminds me of L'eau d'Hiver in a way .

Well ,if the IFRA continue , I don't know how else Chanel can further streamline No .5 parfum . I do feel these days it is more vanilla - ambery in the dry down and leans towards the EDP more ( from my impression of the latest bottles )
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post #27 of 27
7/16/12 at 8:30am
I have the extrait from about 5 years ago. I get a blast of jasmine & ylang ylang, very creamy, then I kind of forget about it and it mellows some but fades quickly. Longevity is a problem. It's a pleasant fragrance, unfortunately, it reminds me of the same scent that is used on toilet papers.
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