I am reaching out for advice on top notes in natural perfumery. I have not paid much attention to them as I have been obsessed with the base and middle notes for the last year or so I have been experimenting and learning. Top notes seemed a distraction since, I had read, top notes "smell good" on their own, and don't last anyway. Well now I am trying to finish up some compositions and I find, surprise, surprise, that my nonchalant attitude towards these notes was, of course, a mistake. I have things that dry down very nicely as I have been working on for months, but the top notes I have added just don't work very well, from "meh" (e.g. on a floral musk) to downright "ick" (e.g. on a tobacco). I am using good quality oils, bergamot, sweet orange, neroli, lime essence, lemon, etc. but particularly with these citrus, I am finding the opening to be sour or outputting rather than sweet and exalting. I want the "customer" (no one actually, but me or my wife at this point) to be drawn in and wait for the blossoming of the middle and base, rather than put off (I guess this is obvious...) My suspicion is this may be harder in natural perfumery than with aromachemicals, where there will be broader and more separated pallet. I know some will find it silly to do "natural" perfumery, but that is an artistic choice I have made (after playing with aromachemicals too), and a discussion for another thread I suppose. So, any discussion on natural materials that might be forgiving as top notes, things that don't mix well, how to proceed generally, or other similar subjects would be deeply appreciated.
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4/15/11 at 10:03pm