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Mitsouko, reformulated, but still a delight

post #1 of 33
4/28/11 at 9:19pm
Thread Starter 
Well, I just got my full bottle of Mitsouko EDP and indulged myself in a decent spritz today. I had heard often that Mitsouko was hard to love. Not for me. It was love at first sniff.

I was actually amazed at how pretty Mitsouko is. As well as dark, beautiful, complex and somewhat mysterious. To me the prettiness comes from the glorious top notes of citrus, which although short lived, are truly gorgeous.

The peach lasts a long time on me, combining gradually with clove and cinnamon basenotes. Sometimes the peach hints at Yvresse, but only hints, because it is so much more subtle. Yvresse shouts, Mitsouko whispers.

I'm also amazed at the projection and sillage. I expected a softer, more personal scent, but this is a scent that fills the car, (I've just come back from the Post Office), and alternates woody, spicy notes with subtle floral bouquet and a hint of fruit. It's just gorgeous and is worthy of its myriad of fans. And although I will not ever possess a bottle of oakmoss laden vintage, this is a mighty worthy addition to my growing collection.

Next on my 'tasting' list are Samsara and Shalimar, before I start venturing into the harder to get Guerlains. I am also champing at the bit to get my L'Heure Bleu which is taking forever to come by post.
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post #2 of 33
4/28/11 at 9:32pm
LiliB! It is absolutely beautiful!
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post #3 of 33
4/28/11 at 9:50pm
Absolutely!!!! I only know vintage EdC and extrait to compare. I find the new Mitsouko extrait to be slightly more focused on peach, whereas the EdP has vetiver as one of the big players, too. Interestingly, I find Mitsouko EdP only initially a blast (sillage). It stays with me for a rather long time, but on the quieter side.
For Shalimar I'd continue with the EdP. My only complaint is that it does not last long enough.
Next stop Vol de Nuit (an extrait sample from theperfumedcourt or others)!
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post #4 of 33
4/28/11 at 10:32pm
Thread Starter 
Funny you should say that Larimar. I have a Vol de Nuit sample on its way.
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post #5 of 33
4/28/11 at 10:38pm
I only have the EDT of Vol de Nuit. Obviously the Parfum is definitely much better!
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post #6 of 33
4/29/11 at 2:13am
So, you are right on track. *thumbsup*
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post #7 of 33
4/29/11 at 2:20am
I only have the older oakmoss versions in parfum and edt(I actually like it for its airyness). I always wore the edp in the 80s but for some reason when I bought it in the early 00s something did not gel with me. Now Mitsouko and I have always gotten along wonderfully. I was actually shocked to find it classed as difficult. So I gave the edp away and just bought a edt and she was wonderful again. Perhaps it was the vamped vetiver(we don't get along very well unless ganged up on and beaten up by other notes LOL), Larimar mentioned?
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post #8 of 33
4/29/11 at 5:58pm
Thread Starter 
This morning I awoke after a long sleep and found Mitsouko had enveloped me in a most delightful, complex and subtle veil of delicate fragrance. It had morphed into the most elegant combination of ingredients.

I could still smell the individual elements, particularly the citrus and peach. But it was so beautifully blended with spices and woods. This is what the really top notch perfumes can achieve. A journey to an end that is in itself a new experience. Even my anosmic husband agreed that it was indeed wonderful.
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post #9 of 33
4/29/11 at 8:36pm
Congratulations LiliB! It appears Queen Mitsy has graced you with her charms from the very first spray. Enjoy your new friend!
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post #10 of 33
4/29/11 at 9:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiliB View Post

Well, I just got my full bottle of Mitsouko EDP and indulged myself in a decent spritz today. I had heard often that Mitsouko was hard to love. Not for me. It was love at first sniff.

I was actually amazed at how pretty Mitsouko is. As well as dark, beautiful, complex and somewhat mysterious. To me the prettiness comes from the glorious top notes of citrus, which although short lived, are truly gorgeous.

The peach lasts a long time on me, combining gradually with clove and cinnamon basenotes. Sometimes the peach hints at Yvresse, but only hints, because it is so much more subtle. Yvresse shouts, Mitsouko whispers.

I'm also amazed at the projection and sillage. I expected a softer, more personal scent, but this is a scent that fills the car, (I've just come back from the Post Office), and alternates woody, spicy notes with subtle floral bouquet and a hint of fruit. It's just gorgeous and is worthy of its myriad of fans. And although I will not ever possess a bottle of oakmoss laden vintage, this is a mighty worthy addition to my growing collection.

Next on my 'tasting' list are Samsara and Shalimar, before I start venturing into the harder to get Guerlains. I am also champing at the bit to get my L'Heure Bleu which is taking forever to come by post.


Yay ! I am very happy for you. Mitsouko is wonderful and I love it too. Good on you, girl . Good luck with the other Guerlains too .
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post #11 of 33
5/10/11 at 11:44pm
LiliB, welcome to the army of Mitsouko lovers! Yes, it's been reformulated (a few times), but it's still lovely!
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post #12 of 33
5/12/11 at 5:19am
LiliB, I also fell for Mitsouko on first sniff. For me, it's also the current version. I'm patiently waiting for the right vintage version to cross my path - and I will pounce!
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post #13 of 33
7/16/11 at 11:34pm
All of a sudden, in the last two days or so, I must have this! Got an EDP decant from TCP, along with Vol de Nuit and LHB several months ago. Found that my Weil de Weil inhabits similar territory to VdN whilst being easier to find and not so pricy, fell in love w LHB. Mitsouko didn't strike me at first, then, tout Ã* coup, it got to me! My mother never wore Guerlain, but Mitsy brings me back to my childhood and playing dress-up with her scarves and jewelry. I'm not going to analyze the notes, I'm just going to buy the EDP and enjoy!
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post #14 of 33
7/17/11 at 12:00am
New Mitsouko is drier, paler, less bass, more treble, harder texture. The oakmoss deepens and complicates the whole fragrance, whereas Mitsouko with tree moss leaves it more one dimensional. It's still excellent but the new edt feels the attenuations in such a way that really leaves me asking why they don't just add a little oakmoss. The new edp and parfum both satisfy pretty good, though. Some of the best stuff I've ever smelled on my girlfrfiend.

The pre-1996 edp/pdt is profoundly different and expansive, more animalic (feels more natural, as though it's oozing from the pores), a bigger fragrance all around. Almost feels like a different fragrance with radiance as strong as Opium (YSL). It's excellent but too feminine in smell and radiance and I definitely prefer the more masculine post-1996 stuff (still w/oakmoss). Guerlain started removing animalic ingredients long before they started removing oakmoss. Vol de Nuit used to contain castoreum, costus, even natural musks not long ago, but that all changed when LVMH took over.
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post #15 of 33
7/17/11 at 12:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post

... I'm just going to buy the EDP and enjoy!

You do that, jujy54! I must say, of th current EdT, EdP and Parfum, the EdP is my favourite. I find the parfum, whilst still lovely, somewhat attenuated in comparison.
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post #16 of 33
7/17/11 at 1:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gandhajala View Post

You do that, jujy54! the EdP is my favourite. I find the parfum, whilst still lovely, somewhat attenuated in comparison.

Interesting you are saying that. I prefer the extrait, because of the rich and lush peach in the extrait. Sometimes the EdP feels slightly too synthetic (it's that freshness vibe) for me, but sometimes I choose the EdP for its fresher feel. Anyway, the EdP is fantastic. Enjoy, jujy54!
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post #17 of 33
7/17/11 at 2:08am
^ Sniffing both side-by-side now. To my nose, the spices in EdP really jump right out of the spritzer. Perhaps that rush is what I miss in the opening of the parfum (?). You're completely right though about the lush, peachiness of the extrait. I'm still delighted to have both

Edit: Incidentally, does the current parfum/extrait list 'oakmoss' in the ingredients? My bottle does (in contrast to 'tree moss' which is listed on my bottle of the EdP).
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post #18 of 33
7/17/11 at 2:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gandhajala View Post

^ Sniffing both side-by-side now. I'm still delighted to have both

Edit: Incidentally, does the current parfum/extrait list 'oakmoss' in the ingredients? My bottle does (in contrast to 'tree moss' which is listed on my bottle of the EdP).

That's it - owning both
No, only tree moss, no oakmoss listed on my box.
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post #19 of 33
7/17/11 at 3:56am
Thanks Larimar.

A question then: Does somebody know when the oakmoss was replaced with treemoss in the parfum ? I'm trying to determine a terminus ad quem (as it were) for my bottle.
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post #20 of 33
7/17/11 at 4:10am
My understanding was that the much praised Flechier reformulation (2007?) is the one without oakmoss. When I first bought my 8 ml refill I made sure I had a brandbew one and not one sitting around on a store shelf for a while.
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post #21 of 33
7/17/11 at 4:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larimar View Post

My understanding was that the much praised Flechier reformulation (2007?) is the one without oakmoss.

Thank you, my friend. I think I need to make a point of sniffing the most recent incarnation of the parfum for comparison. In fact, I have a feeling I have a sample from a certain someone
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post #22 of 33
7/17/11 at 4:31am
I had the same feeling.
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post #23 of 33
7/17/11 at 9:02am
I'll be visiting friends in NYC in August, so it occurs to me that I should hold off and visit Bergdorf-Goodman's Guerlain couter. I've never smelled the extrait. Probably bring my best friend and have a little scent party
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post #24 of 33
7/17/11 at 9:39am
I bought last year a 30ml tester in parfum. The square spray ones you see on counter. To me it smells like Mitsouko with oakmoss, I did actually think oh has this got treemoss or oakmoss? But when I compared to my older Mitsouko parfum exactly the same. So are Guerlain being sneeky and keeping the oakmoss in the parfum because they know only those who truely love Mitsouko would spring for that version?????
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post #25 of 33
7/17/11 at 10:00am
^Donna, does your bottle have a sticker on the side listing the ingredients? I too have a 30ml square tester bottle and it clearly lists 'oakmoss', hence my curiosity...
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post #26 of 33
7/18/11 at 12:32am
No mention of oakmoss or treemoss. Now I bought mine on ebay so the seller could have removed the sticker. Mine was a second chance buy at £44, so since the seller had more than one I thought they might work for Guerlain. They did sell other Guerlain parfum testers too. The prices have rocket now and these sell for £80+
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post #27 of 33
2/28/13 at 3:33am
Not sure what I,m don,t know if this is the right way to ask a question!!! Bought what is suppose to be vintage mitsouko from ebay, date on box 1983 ref:emb 92026a and it smells revolting, nail polish remover from begining to end actually even worse than nail polish remover. The box and bottle in perfect condition can not see any where how this could be a fake. Has it gone off!!! do they lose all the notes over time!! please could some one give me some advice, or should I just bin it!! Do know what mitsouko smells like, have reformulated versions in edt, epd, pure perfume and body lotion and this bottle smells like none of them. Help please.
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post #28 of 33
2/28/13 at 3:41am
Not sure what I,m don,t know if this is the right way to ask a question!!! Bought what is suppose to be vintage mitsouko from ebay, date on box 1983 ref:emb 92026a and it smells revolting, nail polish remover from begining to end actually even worse than nail polish remover. The box and bottle in perfect condition can not see any where how this could be a fake. Has it gone off!!! do they lose all the notes over time!! please could some one give me some advice, or should I just bin it!! Do know what mitsouko smells like, have reformulated versions in edt, epd, pure perfume and body lotion and this bottle smells like none of them. Help please.
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post #29 of 33
2/28/13 at 4:34am
Assuming it isn't a fake, then yes, it sounds as if your perfume has turned. It happens, often when a bottle has been stored in poor conditions.
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post #30 of 33
2/28/13 at 5:02am
OH well in the bin it goes, unless anybody would like it for free, bottle and box in perfect condition.
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post #31 of 33
2/28/13 at 8:06am
jasminegreentea, there is a "Free to a good home" thread, here.
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post #32 of 33
3/1/13 at 11:33am
Clicked on thread what am I suppose to do next!! cannot work my way around this site, no instruction to be found anywhere. If anyone wants this bottle they are more than welcomed to it, but you are going to have to let me know how to send it to you. Like I mentioned in previous threads it smell revolting but the box and bottle in perfect condition.
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post #33 of 33
3/4/13 at 10:52pm
Mitsouko is absolutely one of the most magnificent scents, past, present and future and works well for women and men. There are few scents that have weathered the years, trends and fads as well as had Mitsouko; my signature scent, I might add.
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