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Next Lutens to be released: Vitriol d'oeillet and De Profundis

post #1 of 76
Thread Starter 
For 2011, two news SL frags are coming up: De profundis (exclusive line) and Vitriol d'oeillet (export line)

http://www.osmoz.fr/Actus-Tendances/...ortuaire-svp-!
post #2 of 76
Thank you for posting this.

An angry carnation, huh? Sounds rather dandyish, but this is going to be a must-sniff for me.
post #3 of 76
Oh good god, when can we get out hands on this...
post #4 of 76
Thread Starter 
The release date should be for September (for De profundis at least, maybe sooner for Vitriol?)
post #5 of 76
thank you for posting
post #6 of 76
Its allways good news to hear about Serge.
They must be great fragrances as usualy.
post #7 of 76
Dammit, I had long planned on creating a fragrance called De Profundis. I guess I shouldn't have spent so much time napping. Arrgh.
post #8 of 76
OMG - this sounds good- a carnation for the export line. I want.
post #9 of 76
I first read about this on 1st April on MUA. Got excited then thought must be a April's Fool. Oh Serge will do a high ass carnation!!!
post #10 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by donna255 View Post

Oh Serge will do a high ass carnation!!!

You can bet your bottom dollar on that.

De Profundis sounds nice enough, but I am glad Vitriol d'oeillet is the one available for export.
post #11 of 76
Translations please.
post #12 of 76
Thread Starter 
post #13 of 76
I'm definitely looking forward to trying the angry carnation!
post #14 of 76
Agree with the others here, a Serge Lutens spicy and angry carnation sounds like it could be pure genius. De Profundis (from the depths) also sounds, to quote Wednesday Addams, "nice and gloomy."
There hasn't been a new Serge in quite awhile that has truly excited me. I find Jeux de Peau, Nuit de Cellophane and Bas de Soie to be rather forgettable.
post #15 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post

I find Jeux de Peau, Nuit de Cellophane and Bas de Soie to be rather forgettable.

+1 and you kind of add Boxeuses, which is nice but nothing supposedly butch or tough to me.
Thanks for sharing, mon-petit! I wonder whether Serge Lutens can add anything to carnation that outdoes Caron's En Avion or Tabac Blond and others. I'd be quite interested in the Exclusive, so maybe they will send out a sample???, which would be greatly appreciated, but less likely for the Exclusive I fear.
post #16 of 76
Thread Starter 
The limited editions: http://www.cafleurebon.com/breaking-...ve-exclusives/
+Tubéreuse criminelle confirmed as the export of the year
+ limited gothic Serge noire and Louve
post #17 of 76
Still waiting to smell Boxeuses DAMNIT!

We should start a petition to Sergie for shipping worldwide. It really bugs me!

But yeah, can't wait to smell these!
post #18 of 76
Well. . . so far I haven't met a Serge Lutens I didn't like. I would be very happy to have any of them in my collection. These two sound like two more winners.

Thanks for posting Mr. Mon-Petit. I think we've all been needing some exciting new fragrances to look forward to.
post #19 of 76
Another perspective here from basenotes member carmencanada - nice pix!

http://graindemusc.blogspot.com/
post #20 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by scent View Post

Still waiting to smell Boxeuses DAMNIT!

We should start a petition to Sergie for shipping worldwide. It really bugs me!

But yeah, can't wait to smell these!

Scent, do you have access to a forwarding service with a UK or continental address, like Aramex or similar? Might be one way to get your hands on those e-l-u-s-i-v-e e-x-c-l-u-s-i-v-e-s...
post #21 of 76
Well, I know what I will be buying in the months to come...
post #22 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Bon Vivant View Post

Scent, do you have access to a forwarding service with a UK or continental address, like Aramex or similar? Might be one way to get your hands on those e-l-u-s-i-v-e e-x-c-l-u-s-i-v-e-s...

I have an Aramex address in the UK and America but I was told it was against their policy to ship liquids and illegal. Do you have any experience with Aramex yourself?
post #23 of 76
Sorry, no Aramex experience personally. I opted to use Saudi Post's My Address in America service, which also has a UK address. I have yet to buy a Lutens exclusive, but I've bought other perfumes. Maybe it's "Don't ask, don't tell"? I'm rather surprised Aramex keeps track of liquid shipments...

There must be alternatives. Does the Qatari post have a similar service?
post #24 of 76
Looks good I love the Serge Lutens I have tried so far.....

Google translate:

De Profundis and Vitriol Carnation Serge Lutens: flowers but no wreath please!

Previous
Next

Date: 04/05/2011

What is the Grand Serge was well able to find us again for 2011? The year started well with games skin, the haunting fragrance notes of toast and brioche. So for the second half of the year, one might wonder what was going to be able to pass through the head. It will be flowers, but not just any. The first is a pink 'vitriolic', dealt with an angle ultra-spicy. Fans of pepper, cloves and nutmeg, this' angry perfume is for you. Some woody notes (it would be cedar, rosewood?) Masculinize this flower, as recalled by the creator, is worn on the lapel of suits by men. Preferably the 'young and handsome rogue'. If the substance is powdered and balmy, it takes some time for the eye of Serge really become a flower, olfactory speaking. This is not the case of the second perfume, De Profundis, reserved the Salons du Palais Royal. There is a real flower, sugar free, balms or without marshmallows. At the same time with such a name, it should not be too fancy. De Profundis is indeed a scent inspired by the death .... Yes, yes. His name, sounding somewhat mystical means 'from the depths'. 'From the depths of the dark pit' would Baudelaire in his eponymous poem. In prison, crushed by the anguish in his Oscar Wilde wrote De Profundis him. In the tomb, frankly, for Lutens. Where the deceased can unfortunately no longer feel 'gladioli, chrysanthemums and dahlias, which release their fragrance. It is green, aldehydic almost delicately dark too, with its effect chamomile / peony faded. 'Death is a woman is clearly explained in the creator. But De Profundis, with woody tones hay is not restricted only to women perfume said Lutens' courage, suicide, dizziness, many words are masculine. As for the juice, the color is a gorgeous purple. A color of mourning, of course. Anger and grief: Serge goes well, do not worry. He is already thinking about future designs. Phew, we rejoiced.
Nicolas Olczyk
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Are these limited? They might be in Canada for 200$? The translation is a little weird but i sort of get what the guys saying.
post #25 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Bon Vivant View Post

Sorry, no Aramex experience personally. I opted to use Saudi Post's My Address in America service, which also has a UK address. I have yet to buy a Lutens exclusive, but I've bought other perfumes. Maybe it's "Don't ask, don't tell"? I'm rather surprised Aramex keeps track of liquid shipments...

There must be alternatives. Does the Qatari post have a similar service?

I too have Aramex links in the US & UK and have tried having perfume shipped to me.
I bought Pure Malt from Nordstrom or similar. I got an email from Aramex 3 days later saying Perfume freight is against thier policy and I had 3 choices, they return to sender, destroy it (means they'll keep it lol) or FWD to another address in the US.
But I have heard of instances where people have gotten by. I think Nordstrom may have stated the package contained perfume.
post #26 of 76
From nstperfume.com:

Serge Lutens will launch Vitriol d’Oeillet, a new woody floral perfume in the export range, in July.

The new ‘angry carnation” will feature spice notes, including cayenne, black pepper, pink pepper, nutmeg and clove, and is described as slightly powdery.

Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet will be available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum.

post #27 of 76
July...good, next month i will sample this one
post #28 of 76
Blind buying this one for sure. I really hope this new direction of "literary inspiration" at the Serge Lutens palace doesn't jump the shark.

Jeux de Peau was quite disappointing, so I hope this pissed off carnation makes up for it.
post #29 of 76
I'm stoked about trying Vitriol, but I'm also starting to be a little intrigued by De Profundis, too.
post #30 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mon-Petit View Post

For 2011, two news SL frags are coming up: De profundis (exclusive line) and Vitriol d'oeillet (export line)

http://www.osmoz.fr/Actus-Tendances/...ortuaire-svp-!


Good to know.
post #31 of 76
Can't wait to try the Vitriol, though the name does not appeal to me. Angry perfume? I'm sorry. :-)
post #32 of 76
The carnation sounds wonderful, I'm not so sure about the other one.

The last two releases, Boxeuses and Bas de Soie were okay, but they didn't grab me. I want a bottle of Jeux de Peau, but I will probably just get a decant this fall/winter.

Nothing has smacked me between the eyes, like Serge Noire did, for a while now.
post #33 of 76
I always look forward to new releases from my favorite house. Thanks.
post #34 of 76
I love a good, angry carnation.
post #35 of 76
Both sound good!

Inspired by death and funerals sounds cool!

Cold florals!
post #36 of 76
Wonder when Lucky Scent or Aedes will have the Vitriol..
post #37 of 76
Any more information???? I am ready to add Vitriol to the cart.
post #38 of 76
Grain de Musc has interviewed Serge on these scents:

http://graindemusc.blogspot.com/2011...-my-death.html
post #39 of 76
Interesting article. Curious about this book the blogger is working on....
post #40 of 76
Thread Starter 
VdO is now available on the website http://www.sergelutens.com/vente/fla...d-oeillet.html

ps: this new design is awful !
post #41 of 76
I'm sure it's Europe only right now though...
post #42 of 76
Thread Starter 
Yes EU only.

Don't expect a strong carnation note or you'll be disapointed...
post #43 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mon-Petit View Post

Yes EU only.

Don't expect a strong carnation note or you'll be disapointed...

Do tell us more. I am waiting for my sample to arrive.
post #44 of 76
I'm waiting for me sample too!
Should be here by now!
Yes, tell us more! More
post #45 of 76
Thread Starter 
I need to re-smell it of course, but wasn't too much enthusiast and no much things to say.
It start with plenty of pepper/clove, after it settle down you have the flowers: some rose, a timid carnation with a hint of powdery violet and a woody basenote.
But i'm not surprise with the drastics IFRA restrictions about carnation/eugenol.
I wanted something more angry and rich.

I'm waiting De profundis now
post #46 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mon-Petit View Post

But i'm not surprise with the drastics IFRA restrictions about carnation/eugenol.

Someday we'll be smelling plain water.
There will be nothing left to snif with so much restriction.
post #47 of 76
Its already here and called L'Eau.
post #48 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mon-Petit View Post

But i'm not surprise with the drastics IFRA restrictions about carnation/eugenol.

I think I'm not an oracle by predicting we are in for big surprises in the sense of disappointments. It is not only the eugenol we are talking about. Reformulations are currently happening and it will have an impact at least as severe as the oakmoss restrictions.
post #49 of 76
My sample arrived today. Yes there is carnation I get it straight away in the opeing. Its a lush floral of carnation and lilies. I am in love already and cannot wait for it to hit the UK stores.
post #50 of 76
My vitriol sample arrived today... this gives me a good laugh... Serge is doing the extremely successful Amouage thing. This smells similar to Memoir Woman with the same indefinite white flower/tuberose accord. Sorry, this does not smell of quality to me. What worries me most is that it is really dawning on me what new releases and brandnew reformulations I have smelled this year... if this is the product of IFRA 2010 this s going to bother me much much more than oakmoss. Ah yes, one more peppery frag and I'll go crazy. Are people's lives so dull out there?
Carnation? Go for Caron as long as they can bring it out (from stock only?)!
post #51 of 76
As others have stated... too timid and characterless... soft carnation, some pepper and other spices, some violet and woods in the base. Not interested in it. Was expecting something more from this house.
post #52 of 76
So here's my try on Vitriol d'oeilet:
+ first spray: nothing stands out
+ 2nd spray: ok, there're definitely peppery and spicy things in the opening before smoothening into a soft floral until it settles into a nice (maybe too nice) slightly powdery woody base. It took me sometime to "feel" it better, but not quite clearly.
I must say I was disappointed in VdE, after reading the wonderful interview article on grainedemusc.blogspot.com.
Maybe the "angry carnation" lacks its necessary aggressiveness, or/and even, it's character. The peppery and spicy topnotes need to bite harder instead of just tingle.
But the juice over-all is nice and plush. That's all I can say.
post #53 of 76
Im very disappointed with this carnation.
It isnt angry in any way.
Me, a Lutens fan, must say this time... Im really disappointed. Really really
post #54 of 76
Oh my, this is not good news (these reviews). Perhaps I won't blind buy this one and just wait for the Tubereuse Criminelle....

How is the longevity? Typical Lutens, i.e. almost all day?
post #55 of 76
Not massive sillage but lasts all day on the skin. I wore it fully yesteday and sprayed 8.30 am and still going strong 7 pm.
post #56 of 76
I'm a bit slow on the uptake, but in case any of you chaps wanted a translation of the OP's link from a native French speaker, it reads something like this:

"What else could the great Serge possibly come up with for 2011? The year got off to a promising start with Jeux de Peau, the perfume with a hallucinatory note of toast and brioche. So you might well ask what he's dreamed up for the second half of the year. Flowers, but not any old flowers. Fans of pepper, clove and nutmeg: this "angry perfume" is for you. Woody notes (will it be cedar? rosewood?) lend a masculine edge to this flower which, the creator reminds us, is traditionally worn by men (ideally dashing young rogues) in their jacket buttonholes. The base is powdery and balsamic, and it takes a little while before Serge's carnation truly blooms, olfactively speaking.
Which is not at all the case with the second perfume, De Profundis, reserved exclusively for the Salons du Palais Royal. This is a true floral - no sugar, no balsam, no marshmallows. Then again, with such a name, that's hardly surprising. De Profundis is in fact a perfume inspired... by death. Yes, that's right. Its mystical name means something like "from the depths". "From the bottom of the dark crevice," as Baudelaire would put it in his poem of the same name. "In prison, crushed by anguish," wrote Oscar Wilde in his own De Profundis. Lutens locates himself squarely in the tomb, where the deceased can sadly no longer smell "the gladioli, chrysanthemums and dahlias" delivering their fragrance. This perfume is green, almost aldehydic, delicately sombre with its notes of camomile and faded peony. "Death is clearly a woman,"Lutens explains. But De Profundis, with its shades of wood and hay, is not a perfume solely restricted to female use. As Lutens explains: "courage [le courage], suicide [le suicide], dizziness [le vertige]" - these are masculine words. As for the juice, it is tinted in resplendent violet. A colour of mourning, of course.
Anger and mourning? Don't worry, Serge is fine. His mind is already on future creations. Phew, we're delighted." - Nicolas Olczyk

Hope that helps

I got my sample of Vitriol D'Oeillet today, and I must say I'm enjoying it. Peppery spicy carnation with a lovely translucent feel. Tons of clove (which I'm not normally a fan of, except in carnations). Balsamic drydown. Pretty much delivers what's promised. It is a lot less dense and rich than many of his other creations, but I find it charming and unusual enough to warrant wearing, though not FB-worthy.

I'm saving my pennies for Tubereuse Criminelle - my obsession! Does anyone know when it's going to be released for export?
post #57 of 76
Thread Starter 
Rapidly smelled De profundis, a bitter chrysantheme.
If you like the smell chrysantheme flower you'll probably like it, it's quite realistic
post #58 of 76
Hello guys!

Now that Vitriol is out for some time... what your opinion on it?
I'm still now convinced.
In me it´s short lived.
It´s a light fragrance from Lutens.
I buy (almost) all the Lutens but this I will not!
post #59 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mon-Petit View Post

Rapidly smelled De profundis, a bitter chrysantheme.
If you like the smell chrysantheme flower you'll probably like it, it's quite realistic

No sweet is this one?
It's light too?
post #60 of 76
Thanks for the update! Now I'm really curious about De Profundis. Chrysanthemums have a very odd, not really floral smell, so I was thinking they might pretty it up into blandness. Sounds like it's not!

I Googled and found this review: http://www.secondcherry.com/Review-D...ge-Lutens.html
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