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What are the all time greats, name your favourite five or so women's fragrances

post #1 of 34
6/14/11 at 9:37pm
Thread Starter 
I've been giving this perfume business a bit of thought. Since joining basenotes I have learned so much, found so many perfumes to love, that I hadn't heard of. I've learned how to really appreciate perfume, and also to gauge what I like, often even before trying it.

It also occurred to me that it seems the current perfumes do not last long in their commercial lives. The beauty of the great French houses is that they have preserved, albeit often changed and reformulated, great perfumes of the past. I wonder if we will be able to say the same about some of the much loved perfumes of today.

So to further my quest for the great perfumes, I invite you to share with me your top classics of the present, the future or the past, those that will last as something truly special.

Mine are:
Chanel 5
Vol de Nuit
Rive Gauche
Coco
Mitsouko


Edit: What I am asking people to judge is less perhaps their favourites, but the perfumes that are worthy of being kept and handed on. The perfumes you would like your great grandchildren to have, hoping of course, that they will still be available then. The ones that stand head and shoulders above the rest, worthy of being classics, worthy of being preserved. I am wondering which of the current modern ones would fit this category.
Cheers
LiliB
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post #2 of 34
6/14/11 at 10:11pm
Top classics:

Mitsouko
Shalimar
Vol de Nuit
L'heure Bleue
No 5
Apres L'ondee

I haven't smelled Nahema and Chamade Pour Femme
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post #3 of 34
6/14/11 at 10:26pm
Vol de Nuit
Tabac Blond
En Avion
Scandal (Lanvin) or Cuir de Russie (Chanel)
+ practically any other Guerlain classic... let's say Shalimar, vintage extrait here for its smoky drydown lingering forever on fabric.
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post #4 of 34
6/14/11 at 10:33pm
For me:

Chanel Cuir de Russie parfum
Guerlain Jicky
Guerlain Shalimar
Guerlain Chamade
Nina Ricci L'Air du Temp vintage
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post #5 of 34
6/14/11 at 10:45pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks to all who have and will respond. I'm setting out your choices in a spreadsheet so that I can summarise and give everyone an idea of what has come out of this.
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post #6 of 34
6/15/11 at 1:03am
Chanel - Cuir de Russie
Guerlain - L'Heure Bleue
Robert Piguet - Fracas
Dior - Diorella
MDCI- Promesse de L'aube
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post #7 of 34
6/15/11 at 2:26am
For me, bearing in mind l haven't tried all of the greats mentioned here;

Shalimar
L'Heure Bleue
Fracas
Carnal Flower
Vintage Diorissimo
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post #8 of 34
6/15/11 at 3:24am
My favourite five:

YSL - Opium (although possibly not the current formulation)
Lancome - Poeme
Shiseido - Zen (gold)
YSL - Paris
Dior - Miss Dior


My classic five:

Chanel No 5
Mitsouko
L'Heure Bleue
Shalimar
Aromatics Elixir
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post #9 of 34
6/15/11 at 3:31am
I too am a relative newcomer to the world of perfume appreciation - about a year ago, I was looking for a new rose perfume and stumbled happily upon Basenotes, since when I haven't looked back!
My classic choices would be:
Shalimar
L'Heure Bleue
Chanel No 5
N'aimez que Moi
Paris

But - as you are discovering for yourself - the problem is that so many perfumes are now being reformulated. All the above have been worked over and in most cases spoiled. So what was a perfume classic may today be unrecognizable. Take Paris, for example: the current version, after YSL was bought out, contains very little of the original huge, gorgeous, rose and violet melange that made it so distinctive. What is left now is the Ghost of Paris Past. So when you are sampling these fragrances, don't be surprised if the current reality doesn't match up with your expectations.
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post #10 of 34
6/15/11 at 7:40am
On any other forum, I suspect I would be flamed within an inch of my life for saying this, but Basenoters are so nice, I can admit this without fear: I don't care for any of the great classics with one exception: Apres L'ondee. For me, there's something, I don't know, too consciously perfume-y or "French" about Guerlain, Chanel, Caron, and the other classic houses. I can appreciate them. I continue to try and re-try them. At this point, though, I just don't like them.

(Whew! I said it. And I didn't even duck!)

I've discovered that my sweet spot is modern niche orientals, so it's not surprising that many of my favorites tend to come from Serge Lutens. There's something about Sheldrake's juice that just does it for me.

My 5 current favorites are:
Serge Lutens Sarrasins
Frederic Malle Carnal Flower
Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque
Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods
Givenchy Organza Indecence

Close Runners-Up
Robert Piguet Visa
Serge Lutens Chergui
Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe
Etat Libre d'Orange Divin' Enfant
Serge Lutens Bois de Violette
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post #11 of 34
6/15/11 at 8:05am
Oh boy, I hate these pick your favourites. LOL
Mitsouko
Jicky
Ambre Sultan
Alpona
Cadolle No9

Close Runners
Daim Blond
Shalimar (pre 2000 only)
No 22
Vol de Nuit

My choices could change by the end of the day when I reconsider
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post #12 of 34
6/15/11 at 8:22am
But isn't that the beauty, ExtremeKF, about true fragrance fans? We perceive that personal preference reigns above all and help each other find those happy scents, even when we don't share the same predilections. If the rest of the world could operate with such understanding ...

24 Faubourg
Mitsouko
L'Heure Bleue
Jicky
Chanel Cuir de Russie
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post #13 of 34
6/15/11 at 8:52am
Mitsouko
Vol de Nuit
Shalimar
L'Heure Bleue
Jicky
Narcisse Noir
Chanel No 5
Chanel Bois des Iles
En Avion
Fracas


Me too -Donna- these 'pick your favorites' - there are more than 10 faves for me .
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post #14 of 34
6/15/11 at 10:07am
You forgot No. 22, Mims
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post #15 of 34
6/15/11 at 10:24am
My list of the fragrances that my Wife wears that I really love.....
1. Flower Bomb
2. Scent of Peace
3. Union Square
4. Spring Flowers
5. Love In White
6. Sensi by Armani
7. Romance by RL
8. Code Pour Femme
9. Love by RL
10. 5th Avenua
Gary
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post #16 of 34
6/15/11 at 10:53am
Modern / Legacy


5. 24 Faubourg / Miss Dior
4. Narciso Rodriguez for Her / Fracas
3. Angel / Chanel. No 5
2. Dune / Youth Dew
1. Cuir de Russie / Cuir de Russie
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post #17 of 34
6/15/11 at 1:16pm
Jicky
Bandit
No.19
Shalimar
Bois Des Iles
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post #18 of 34
6/15/11 at 10:18pm
Interesting question. Some perfumes I own and would happily see my son have for his future wife or just keep for posterity:

Classic

L'Heure Bleue EDP & Parfum
Apres l'Ondee (EDT but after trying the Extrait this is a make do option, really)
Sous le Vent - it's a reinterpretation of the 1930s version but fantastic.
Shalimar Parfum (vintage in particular)
Mitsouko (vintage PdT / Extrait)
Jicky Parfum

Relatively recent releases I consider 'present or future classics' - purely personal, of course

Profumo (Acqua di Parma)
Une Fleur de Cassie (Editions de Parfum Frederic Malle)
Homage Attar & Lyric Woman (Amouage)
L'Abeille, Attrape Coeur & Insolence Eau de Parfum (Guerlain)
Odalisque & Sacrebleu (Parfums de Nicolai) altho I believe these have been made IFRA compliant.
L'Heure Fougueuse IV (Cartier). I wonder what Mathilde Laurent will come up with for the rest of this series - I hope she revisits her Guet Appens idea now that Attrape Coeur is discontinued.
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post #19 of 34
6/16/11 at 9:29am
My favorites, you can tell I like sweet and spicy combos, but I'm sure this could change any given day.

Fendi Theorema
Caron Parfum Sacre
Givenchy Organza Indecence
Caron Aimez Moi
Mauboussin Histoire d'Eau
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post #20 of 34
6/19/11 at 10:07pm
Even though it's not a fragrance I wear, Chanel No. 5 will head my list. Just because it such an amazing scent ( and I so wish I could wear it)!

Chanel No. 5
Mitsouko (the love of my life)
Chanel's Cuir de Russie
Vol de Nuit
L'Air du Temps (vintage)
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post #21 of 34
6/19/11 at 11:52pm
The world would be a lesser place without:
All the early Guerlains
Habanita
Fendi Theorema
Caron Parfum Sacre
Givenchy Organza Indecence
YSL - Y
YSL NU
Dior- Dioressence
Coco, No 5 and Eau Premiere
Mauboussin
L'arte di Gucci
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post #22 of 34
6/20/11 at 12:03am
Thread Starter 
Thanks to all who have given me their ideas. Keep em coming, everyone. The more, the merrier. I may have to do 2 or 3 spreadsheets to allow for the classics, as well as the contemporaries. I was really hoping that some of the stunning, classic of the future, contemporaries would be mentioned. But then, we are a forum of perfume lovers, most of whom begin with and often stay with the great classics of the past. I know I have.

I'm about to venture into sampling some of the niche perfumes, so I may broaden my perception of what the all time greats may be, in time to come.
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post #23 of 34
6/20/11 at 6:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quarry View Post

But isn't that the beauty, ExtremeKF, about true fragrance fans? We perceive that personal preference reigns above all and help each other find those happy scents, even when we don't share the same predilections. If the rest of the world could operate with such understanding ...

You are so right, Quarry! I've benefited greatly from the suggestions, knowledge, and kindess of Basenoters. I love this forum.
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post #24 of 34
6/20/11 at 8:16am
And besides personal preference, I do firmly believe that perfumes do not smell the same on different people! My favorite, vintage Miss Balmain smelt very differently on me that on other people who wore it. I liked it far better on myself And later when I was at the Royal College of Art, I got a whiff of my Miss Balmain, and it turned out that a friend of mine wore it and it smelled exactly the same on her as it did on me.

So here's my list of five favorites:
-Vintage Miss Balmain by Balmain
-Chantilly by Houbigant
- #19 Chanel
- Soir de Lune Sisley
- Balmain de Balmain by... guess who? Balmain
- 24 Faubourg Hermès
- vintage Jolie Madame Balmain
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post #25 of 34
6/20/11 at 4:50pm
Chanel No. 5
Guerlain Shalimar
Guerlain Apres L'Ondee
Jean Patou's Joy
Coty's L'Origan
L'Artisan Parfumeur's Fleur d'Oranger (can't be passed down but had to be mentioned)
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post #26 of 34
6/28/11 at 6:28pm
Bijan Peter Bohm

Obsession Jean Guichard

Raffinée

L'Interdit Francis Fabron

Amarige Dominique Ropion
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post #27 of 34
6/28/11 at 6:56pm
Guerlain Vol de Nuit
Guerlain L'Heure Bleue
Guerlain Apres l'Ondee
Guerlain Shalimar
Guerlain Mitsouko (this one is really growing on me)
Do you see a trend here? Gotta love Guerlain!!
Chanel No. 5
YSL Opium (older bottle)don't care for the new version
Jean Patou Joy
Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps (vintage) the 1st perfume my husband gave me
Chanel Bois des Iles
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post #28 of 34
6/28/11 at 7:08pm
My personal thinking does not really run classic.

What could be a classic, but won't"
Mauboussin by Mauboussin
FM Iris Poudre

Could become a classic:
Chanel 31 rue Cambon
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post #29 of 34
6/28/11 at 7:10pm
Classics (in no particular order):
YSL Opium
Tabac Blond
Coco
Bois des Iles
Alpona

Others running close (also in no particular order):
Lutens Encens et Lavande
Lutens Chergui
Guerlain Bois d'Armenie
Tom Ford Japon Noir
Profumum Fiore d'Ambra
Amouage Memoir Woman
CdG 2
Caron Poivre
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post #30 of 34
6/30/11 at 4:03am
L'Heure Bleue
Shalimar
Fracas
Poison
Obsession

These are all in the face, but then again - why not?
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post #31 of 34
6/30/11 at 4:53am
Mitsouko
L'heure bleue
Shalimar
Feminite du bois
Chergui
.....and also # 88 and Cuir de Russie and Bois des iles as running very close .
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post #32 of 34
6/30/11 at 9:15am
Took my time to post my response to this one: there are definitely more than five and the list is constantly changing, but here goes:

1) Jean Couturier Coriandre;
2) Chanel Bois des Iles;
3) Torrente L'Or;
4) Berdoues Violettes de Toulouse;
5) Mauboussin de Mauboussin.
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post #33 of 34
6/30/11 at 10:06am
I'm basing this on my last ten years of perfume collecting, the ones I return to again and again:

Thierry Mugler Alien
Chanel Cuir de Russie
Gucci EDP
Caron Tabac Blond
Guerlain Mitsouko
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post #34 of 34
6/30/11 at 1:29pm
I'm basing my list on scents that are special to me, the ones that I spray and it feels like I'm greeting a much-loved friend. I wouldn't claim 'all time classic' for any of them, and I'm conscious, like others here, that if you ask me again in 6 months the list may different (but probably not that much):

31 Rue Cambon
Givenchy III (vintage or ‘mythical’ reissue)
L’Air du Temps (vintage)
Bulgari Black
Cristalle

Runners up:

Mitsouko
Ormonde Woman
Pleasures
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