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Some of the most classic scents...

post #1 of 25
Thread Starter 
To one and all:

I'm relatively new to the men's fragrance world. As I've been forging out into it, however, I've been amazed at the variety and range of fragrances out there. I'm attempting, though I'm making little headway, to discern which scents are the most classic, time-tested, for the mature man. As an unmarried clergyman, I'm not looking for something particularly flashy, new, or "modern," but rather a kind of stately fragrance, recalling something of the old-world. I realize that "older is not necessarily better," but I am interested in some of the older, more venerable scents. What do you think?

I appreciate all your assistance in this regard.
post #2 of 25
Azzaro Pour Homme

Welcome to basenotes!
post #3 of 25
Welcome! Green Irish Tweed
post #4 of 25
Welcome! IMO The most memorable masculines are from the past (60's/70's/80's). Here are a few suggestions you might want to check. I personally don't know your taste but the following are all very classic fragrances and part of different types of families (fougere, orientals, chypre, eau de cologne ecc ecc.)...

Eau Sauvage
Eau D'Hermes
Knize Ten
Tuscany Per Uomo
Gucci Pour Homme (vintage)
Parfums De Nicolai New York
Caron Pour Un Homme
Yatagan
Grey Flannel
Derby
Guerlain Vetiver
Givenchy Vetyver
Esencia De Loewe
Lauder For Men
Azzaro Pour Homme
Paco Rabanne Pour Homme
Egoiste
Antaeus
Quorum
Equipage
Bel Ami
post #5 of 25
alfarom has provided a very good list...I would add Acqua di Parma Colonia and Tiffany for Men to it.
post #6 of 25
Old Spice
post #7 of 25
Tabac Original
post #8 of 25
Already mentioned by alfarom and others, my favorite in the category would be New York by Parfums de Nicolai. It's an orange amber; not expensive, but difficult to find in the US. Caron pour un homme is a lavender vanilla from the 20's 30's, as classic as it gets. From the same era, Knize Ten (leathery amber).

Easier to find, pretty much everything from the Aramis range (Aramis, Aramis 900, Tuscany, Devin).

cacio
post #9 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by cacio View Post

Easier to find, pretty much everything from the Aramis range (Aramis, Aramis 900, Tuscany, Devin).

cacio

I think this may be your best starting point...go to a dept store that has these, JHL, Havana, New West...all the ones in the "gentlemen's collection", which is basically all their earlier ones reissued but not reformulated (supposedly).
post #10 of 25
What? No recommendation for Polo (the classic green bottle)? Nothing says 1980 more than that.
post #11 of 25
Great list so far.

Some additional recommendations:
Loewe para Hombre
Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur
Givenchy Gentleman
Gucci Nobile
post #12 of 25
Alfa Rom has you off to an excellent start, leaving only we following posters to underline one or another of his choices.
I am an older man too and do not like alot of the more modern scents. And I have not sampled near even a majority of Alfa's recommends, but of those I have, I cast my vote for New York by Patricia de Nicolaï. Eau Sauvage is a good bet too as it is a cologne type and will not linger past its welcome point in time if you don't happen to like it. That's important for me as I am testing my samples. Lastly Knize Ten is quite different/interesting too!
post #13 of 25
How about......

Lalique pour Homme
Xeryus
Safari, or
Polo Crest (which I haven't actually tried but want to very much!)

New York is great, very versatile and just smells good.
post #14 of 25
Thread Starter 
Thanks a lot to all of you who did me the kindness of offering these suggestions. I'd like to add another question: Which are the oldest fragrances for men? In asking this question, I'm not so much interested in what smells particularly masculine, but, from a quasi-historical perspective, which ones have been in production for the longest time. are there certain names in the mens fragrance world--though the scents associated with them might now be considered anachronistic--that be speck tradition, elegance, longevity...?

I ask this question because I'm so new that I don't have the background to be able to distinguish these kinds of issues, even in the suggestions you've been so kind as to provide.

Thanks again for all your help!

Mulligan
post #15 of 25
Fougere Royale is among the oldest (1882) as well as Knize Ten which was released in the early 20's. Other BNers will surely give you more examples...
post #16 of 25
The oldest perfume in continuous production and in a state resembling the original one is often considered Jicky by Guerlain (1889, if I remember correctly). Fougere Royale, as mentioned by alfarom, has recently been reissued but according to perfume critic Tania Sanchez, it is a joke in no way resembling the original (I have not smelled the original, so I cannot say. I don't find the current one particularly interesting).

I'd say Guerlain is the house that's been around the most and still has many old scents. As you say, though, the classic scents are not the ones that occupy most of the space in department stores, where more modern ones by the house take precedence. However, for Guerlain, you can still find here and there things like Apres l'ondee (1906), l'Heure Bleue (1912) and Mitsouko (1919).

Then there are houses like Caron; most masculines are excellent but more modern, but it still carries Caron pour un homme (1934). And of course Knize Ten, which has managed to heroically survive since the 1920s despite changing tastes, when all its leathery companions disappeared.

cacio
post #17 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by mulligan View Post

Which are the oldest fragrances for men? In asking this question, I'm not so much interested in what smells particularly masculine, but, from a quasi-historical perspective, which ones have been in production for the longest time. are there certain names in the mens fragrance world--though the scents associated with them might now be considered anachronistic--that be speck tradition, elegance, longevity...?
Mulligan

The cologne 4711 must be mentioned at near the top of any list. Has been around since 18th century, apparently with little change. Was used by such fellows as Napoleon and Wagner.
post #18 of 25
Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet dates from 1872. I'm certain it hasn't been as faithful to its original formulation as Jicky has. Still, it smells like a very classic, non-modern scent.

EDIT: Guerlain's Mouchoir de Monsieur is from 1904. I think that's still reasonably faithful to the original formulation. It's broadly similar to Jicky. (Which is to say, it's wonderful!)
post #19 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by mulligan View Post

Thanks a lot to all of you who did me the kindness of offering these suggestions. I'd like to add another question: Which are the oldest fragrances for men?

You might be interested in the stylistic recreations that Scents of Time has developed. I'm not sure how far Histoire de Parfums goes in recreating period styles, as opposed to creating modern style scents inspired by the periods.

There is some question on the introduction dates of Royal Prastara (Douglas Hopkins, 1682), Royal English Leather (Creed, 1781) and Number Six (Caswell-Massey, 1789). But those are some of the oldest listed in the Basenotes directory when searched for masculine fragrances still in production.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mulligan View Post

are there certain names in the mens fragrance world--though the scents associated with them might now be considered anachronistic--that be speck tradition, elegance, longevity...?

All at the same time, and across the line? Not really. Most long-established houses include casual and contemporary fragrances, and all with a variable longevity depending on the style and how the fragrance is worn.

For example, I find Knize Ten to be relatively elegant, traditional in a number of respects, and very long-lasting. The other three masculines produced for/by Knize are nothing like it. Czech & Speake No. 88 does have a Victorian/Edwardian elegance and lasts all day in the office ... but I can't say the entire line is like that, except for maybe Dark Rose. As others have noted, while Caron has a fairly elegant reputation, they also produce Yatagan and L'Anarchiste - I'd rather wear 2 Man (from the more avant-garde Comme des Garcons) with a suit or tuxedo.

Really, the BEST way to proceed is to sample widely enough to pin down the notes, accords, and styles you really like, really don't like, and/or can't wear. Be prepared for surprises along the way.
post #20 of 25
Aramis by Aramis, masculine and a classic.
post #21 of 25
Approved by Vatican: Carthusia (some say dating from 14th century...)

http://www.carthusia.it/CarthusiaWeb/showpage/2
post #22 of 25
New York +3
Guerlain Derby +1 (not that old but smells very very traditional)

- Chanel pour Monsieur

Old Spice (new) smells too cheap for a clergyman, and Yatagan, Aramis, Paco Rabanne, and Quorum will probably be too bold for you imo
post #23 of 25
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the help, everyone, and for the very warm welcome to Basenotes. I am greatly appreciative of your kind suggestions and recommendations. Looks like I've got some sampling to do...
post #24 of 25
Welcome!

I also recommend Tiffany for Men.
post #25 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by mulligan View Post

Thanks for all the help, everyone, and for the very warm welcome to Basenotes. I am greatly appreciative of your kind suggestions and recommendations. Looks like I've got some sampling to do...

Oh! indeed you do! But at least we've narrowed the field somewhat for you. The above recommendations might look like alot, but when you consider all the ones we didn't mention...good luck.
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