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The Floral Aldehydes ~ Is there an expert in the house?

post #1 of 56
12/7/11 at 8:46pm
Thread Starter 
I'm keeping myself up at night listening to the rain and contemplating Arpège, Chanel No. 5, Véga, Fleurs de Rocaille, Nocturne, Rive Gauche and beyond. Does anyone here have une collection complète?

How do these classics lineup side by side?

Any insights appreciated, especially regarding Véga.

Merci en avance.
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post #2 of 56
12/7/11 at 9:20pm
Unfortunately, I have not smelled Vega, so I cannot comment on it. To my nose, from ligher, more airy to darker:
The two Carons are very powdery, floral, light, boring. Then I would put No 5. Rive Gauche is darker with resins; I am planning to blind buy its precursor Calandre, which is supposed to be lighter. Arpege (the current formulation at least) is woody, more fruity, woolly, less floral than the others overall (I have a parfum vintage and it is lighter in feel to me, less fruity and slightly more floral); no soap feel here. Luca Turin calls the current Arpege a masculine, and I agree.

Another aldehydic floral would be Amouage Gold, reformulated or not.

cacio
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post #3 of 56
12/8/11 at 5:05am
I'm no expert, but I do appreciate all the scents you have listed, and am currently on very good terms with my Chanel no. 22. The impression it gives me is of a champagne cocktail, sweet and effervescent, with an aldehydic "hit" up front, but the drydown is softer, with great longevity, notes are jasmine, ylang ylang, rose...very pretty.
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post #4 of 56
12/8/11 at 5:08am
I'm not familiar with Vega but if you are taking suggestions, I didn't think I could wear aldehydic florals until I met #22. Stunning! I've since come to enjoy #5 as well.

Also worth trying:

First by Van Cleef and Arpels
Frederic Malle Iris Poudre
Serge Lutens La Myrrhe
Guerlain Liu
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post #5 of 56
12/8/11 at 5:17am
I've yet to try Vega, but I have a fondness for certain aldehydic florals.

Some modern scents do the powdery-mixed-floral with aldehydes very well. Amouage's Gold ( both of them ) comes to mind, and this year's Miriam, by Tauer, is right near the top of my recommendations for this genre. Of course Eau Premier is a given.

There are some really strange ones, too, that go all out on the aldehyde content. Lauder's White Linen is their queen, but one of the most intriguing takes on this combination is the violet-centered Stephen Jones from Comme des Garcons. I'd also highly recommend Delon's Iquitos, theoretically male, but nothing like most men's fragrances of the era - it's a big rose with a great glassy aldehyde top note.
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post #6 of 56
12/8/11 at 5:18am
Piguet's Baghari is a fun one, too.
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post #7 of 56
12/8/11 at 5:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post

Piguet's Baghari is a fun one, too.

Yes! It just occurred to me to suggest it.
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post #8 of 56
12/8/11 at 5:59am
I'm not an expert either, but I have a good number of floral-aldehydes that I really love. Here are a few more worth investigating ...not necessarily always classified as straight-up floral-aldehydes, but each has a glorious aldehydic component.

Detchema by Revillon - rosy, super-feminine, slightly makeup-y, glamorous ...and long-discontinued but absolutely worth the search
Je Reviens by Worth - the current stuff is bad, but this used to be incredible, full of creamy aldehydes and springy green florals
Le Dix by Balenciaga - like Chanel No5 with sweet violets, beautiful and graceful
Calandre by Paco Rabanne - rosy and green, people often compare this to Rive Gauche
Infini by Caron - my favorite Caron, this has an outstanding narcissus note, but the aldehydes really make it a stand-out, much better if vintage
Estée by Estée Lauder - spicy, mossy, floral and rather casual but wonderful and unique
Chamade by Guerlain - more about the amazing green florals and especially the hyacinths, but I love the aldehydes in this one, too
Climat by Lancome - stunning aldehydes above creamy florals, I adore this one. It reminds me of sailing on a breezy summer day under deep blue skies and puffy white clouds ...and the current version, though a bit different, is still wonderful.

Sorry - I'm not familiar with Vega, either.
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post #9 of 56
12/8/11 at 7:31am
I love reading this thread. Aldehydes are fascinating to me. I love the descriptors "wooly" and "glassy".

My favorite aldehydic fragrance atm is No. 22. It is puffy and fluffy like a cloud, very creamy, and the incense is a brilliant component.
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post #10 of 56
12/8/11 at 7:36am
A fun aldehydic floral is Broadway Nite. I wear it when I crave something less serious than No5 or No 22, something with a sense of humour.
It doesn't compare to the other masterpieces but I enjoy having it in my wardrobe.
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post #11 of 56
12/8/11 at 8:22am
One I like to wear in the winter is EL- White Linen. So crisp and architectural. It always cheers me up.
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post #12 of 56
12/8/11 at 8:44am
Vintage Caleche should definitely be in your collection too.
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post #13 of 56
12/8/11 at 9:22am
Vintage Fleurs de Rocaille is gorgeous!!!! No idea what its like now?
Nocturnes is young green and girly

Chamade try for the edp or parfum. Liu is also fabulous
I like Rive Gauche is powdery rose

No22 is amazing all white flowers and incense.
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post #14 of 56
12/8/11 at 10:54am
I smelled briefly a new version of Vega at NM in San Fran.
It is wonderful, aldehydes are very nice as well as jasmine and rose. I did not smell on the skin because I was a little bit wary of jasmine and because on my limited skin space I was trying Chant d'Arome, also new, also aldehydic. It reminded me of a green sheer blouse one can wrap themselves in. Flowing, feminine, light.

(I am sure vintage was quite different, but I am not familiar with it).
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post #15 of 56
12/8/11 at 11:52am
I recently got my hands on Zibeline by Weil, and it is supposed to be an aldehydic scent. I know I don't have the original version of Zibeline, but the version I have is gorgeous, nonetheless. I also have and love Rive Gauche, No. 5, No. 22, Amouage Gold, Caleche, Fleurs de Rocaille, Infini, Calandre. . . .
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post #16 of 56
12/8/11 at 11:56am
I really like Nocturnes and Arpege. I'd add L'Air du temps to your list of ones to try, I think it's considered classic.
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post #17 of 56
12/8/11 at 1:18pm
Thread Starter 
There are many experts in this house. Yay! I love Basenotes! Thanks for the wonderful suggestions.
I am furiously clicking through these lists...basically this is like one long shopping list to me.
I am going to start tracking down these down one at a time at least for a noseful if not a bottle full
...if it takes me the rest of my life...
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post #18 of 56
12/8/11 at 1:33pm
Fleurine, I have some samples I'll be able to share with you when my finals are over.
Some of these fragrances are new to me as well, especially Suga's recommendations, never heard of them!
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post #19 of 56
12/8/11 at 1:47pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warum View Post

I smelled briefly a new version of Vega at NM in San Fran.
It is wonderful, aldehydes are very nice as well as jasmine and rose. I did not smell on the skin because I was a little bit wary of jasmine and because on my limited skin space I was trying Chant d'Arome, also new, also aldehydic. It reminded me of a green sheer blouse one can wrap themselves in. Flowing, feminine, light.

(I am sure vintage was quite different, but I am not familiar with it).

Thank you so much! You have smelled Vega? How do the Guerlain aldehydes compare (Liu, Vega, etc amongst themselves as well as to others...) Does Guerlain do aldehydes well? I feel like this is more predominantly a Chanel Story...
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post #20 of 56
12/8/11 at 5:58pm
Don't forget Vol de Nuit!

Aldehydes are an obsession, and I have le grande collection comprehensive (maybe).

Anyway, these are my very favorites :

Molyneaux Vivre
L'Air du Temps (vintage!)
Caleche
Amouage Dia
Amouage Gold
First
Gucci 1
Crown Malabar
EL Private Collection
EL White Linen
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post #21 of 56
12/8/11 at 7:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fleurine View Post

Thank you so much! You have smelled Vega? How do the Guerlain aldehydes compare (Liu, Vega, etc amongst themselves as well as to others...) Does Guerlain do aldehydes well? I feel like this is more predominantly a Chanel Story...

I agree about Chanel, but I do think Guerlain does aldehydes beautifully as well. Look at Hillaire's rec below, I agree 100%, Vol de Niut EDT is fantastic aldehyde. I will have to try on parfum, haven't yet. Vega is a great one, too, like Joy but darker. And Lancome Climat is a great aldehyde, Evangeline mentioned that. And Fleurs de Rocaille by Caron... anyway, the point is that we can find our favorite genre in many houses!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post

Don't forget Vol de Nuit!

Aldehydes are an obsession, and I have le grande collection comprehensive (maybe).

You are right about Vol de Niut, thank you!
As for the collection -- I am sure you do! Thanks for bringing up some new for me names. I will try to hunt for them.
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post #22 of 56
12/8/11 at 10:30pm
Okay, now I have a minute, and here are some more of my faves.

You might like Norrell.

Patou 1000

Houbigant Quelques que Fleurs (vintage is another thing from the new.)

Courreges Empreinte is VERY good.

And how could I forget the aldehydic leather Cuir de Russie, Zibeline's sister.

Balenciaga's stunning Cialenga. Really, a must-smell for the aldehyde adventure.

And Michelle is a leather-y aldehyde. With great character.

Capucci Yendi is unique, and Filly is another good aldehyde.

Divine L'Ame Soeur is a modern aldehydic. That is utterly fantastic.

Madame Carven.
Carven Intrigue. Carven Gurlinades. This house was all aldehyde!

Weil Antilope (vintage is a must) and Weil de Weil.

Lancetti Via Condotti.

Madame Rochas! One of my top three! Really, you'll want to seek out a vintage bottle, though as the new stuff has no good civet .

Nina Ricci Nina is so darn good. It's a cousin to First. (not the new Nina), this one:



And also from Ricci, Coeur Joie. A true classic. And Bigarade. And Farouche.

From Yves Rocher, En Avril un Soir (vintage). It's like Rive Gauche meets Ma Griffe. I love it.

Carven Ma Griffe! DUH! Not a green, as some say; a real aldehydic, actually.

Givenchy Ysatis is a classic; the latest stuff is abominable, though.

Ferre by Ferre, in the little grenade bottle is really beautiful. And a true aldehyde!


And who could forget L'Interdit? The stuff that came just before the latest was still very nice.

Finally, he's my top ten in order:

1. Dia Woman
2. Gold Woman
3. Vintage First
4. Gianfranco Ferre Ferre by Ferre
5. Vintage Madame Rochas
6. Vivre
7. Vintage Rive Gauche
8. Vintage Un Avril en Soir
9. Nina Ricci Nina
10. Nocturnes
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post #23 of 56
12/9/11 at 7:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post

Carven Ma Griffe! DUH! Not a green, as some say; a real aldehydic, actually.

I'm glad you said that, Hillaire. I never got the greeny-greeness people say they get in Ma Griffe. To me, it was always soapy aldehydes.

Editing to add: My SotD, Lanvin Rumeur (2006), is a modern aldehydic floral. I really like it. It has that "glassy" quality somebody above mentioned.
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post #24 of 56
12/9/11 at 9:19am
Thread Starter 
Hillaire! You do have la belle collection! Thank so much! I love lists....especially of perfume! Cannot wait to check these out. BTW, I smelled Baghari last night and liked it!
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post #25 of 56
12/9/11 at 9:28am
Lubin Nuit de Longchamps- a beautiful Aldehyde seems to be off the list at LuckyScents. Does anyone know if it is out of production?
Here are the notes; Bergamot, Orange blossom, Nutmeg, Cardamom, Ylang ylang, Rose, Jasmine, Iris, Sandalwood, Broom, Patchouli, Vetiver, Tolu and Peru balsams, Labdanum, Oak moss

The original formula sometimes found on Ebay is beautiful, BTW!
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post #26 of 56
12/9/11 at 1:23pm
The only aldehyde bomb I have is Bois des Iles EdP.
The first whiffs always make me high. Great stuff!
Testing Cuir de Russie EdP and I'll get a bottle of that too next year.
Gorgeous opening as well.
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post #27 of 56
12/9/11 at 5:40pm
A couple of other notable ones are K de Krizia and Shiseido's original black-bottled Zen. Also, of course, Yves Rocher's Milrose, which was their copy of Zen.
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post #28 of 56
12/9/11 at 10:07pm
I enjoy Miss Dior and Miss Balmain.

Of course, my love of this category is Chanel Cuir de Russie in the parfum. I also like Vol de Nuit, although this is more of an oriental aldehyde than a pure floral.
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post #29 of 56
12/9/11 at 10:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Primrose View Post

I enjoy Miss Dior and Miss Balmain.

I'd call those unequivocal chypres. Chypres can use aldehydes. Just as aldehydics can use patchouli. It can get 'hairy'
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post #30 of 56
12/10/11 at 1:08pm
Plus 1 on seeking out Detchema It's divine!!!!
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post #31 of 56
12/10/11 at 1:19pm
Thread Starter 
Here's my short shopping list

Chanel no 22
Carven Ma Griffe
Baghari
And something by Caron and Guerlain
And Amouage, if they are worth it...
Anyone know the best aldehyde of the house for Lanvin and Rochas?
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post #32 of 56
12/10/11 at 1:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fleurine View Post

Anyone know the best aldehyde of the house for Lanvin and Rochas?

Arpège is their most famous, but Lanvin's My Sin is also a classic floral-aldehyde. It has a deep and lush civet note that Arpège lacks.
Madame Rochas is the only floral-aldehyde I know of by Rochas.
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post #33 of 56
12/10/11 at 9:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fleurine View Post

Here's my short shopping list

Chanel no 22
Carven Ma Griffe
Baghari
And something by Caron and Guerlain
And Amouage, if they are worth it...
Anyone know the best aldehyde of the house for Lanvin and Rochas?

Madame Rochas is a classic civet based aldehyde. But also by Guy Robert is Amouage GOld, which to my nose, is the perfection of MR. And boy is it worth it!
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post #34 of 56
12/11/11 at 6:11pm
Givenchy III, Infini and Nuit de Noel spring to mind.
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post #35 of 56
12/11/11 at 8:05pm
Thread Starter 
I was just reading reviews of Caron NdN...sounds interesting!
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post #36 of 56
12/12/11 at 5:23am
Givenchy III is a true green chypre along the lines of O de Lancome -- to my understanding --and NdN is an Oriental. Infini is also a chypre (or what I understand chypre to mean), but it's heavy on the aldehydes, so I can understand the confusion.

I forgot a major hitter: Parfums Nicolai Number One. In the vein of First and Nocturnes.
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post #37 of 56
12/12/11 at 9:32am
Sorry, I should clarify, I meant the Les Mythiques Givenchy III that came out a couple of years ago, I see they aren't listed in the directory for some reason. To me, this is very much an aldehyde. see what you think. The NdN, oriental? maybe but it's light and pretty perky.
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post #38 of 56
12/12/11 at 10:30am
NdN is an oriental to my nose as well.
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post #39 of 56
12/12/11 at 5:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumquat View Post

Sorry, I should clarify, I meant the Les Mythiques Givenchy III that came out a couple of years ago, I see they aren't listed in the directory for some reason. To me, this is very much an aldehyde. see what you think. The NdN, oriental? maybe but it's light and pretty perky.

I actually don't know it, the new Mythiques, but now I am intrigued. I actually very much like their Mythique re-interpretation of Vetyver.
Yes, Nocturnes is perky. That's funny, perky.
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post #40 of 56
12/17/11 at 1:48pm
Thread Starter 
I just opened the 6.8 oz bottle of Chanel no 22 that I ordered (blind!) and I'm sitting here thinking, "Is this going to be enough?"
OMG, I love this! I might need a backup. Thanks for the recs. How is the current no 22 Parfum, BTW?
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post #41 of 56
12/17/11 at 2:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fleurine View Post

I just opened the 6.8 oz bottle of Chanel no 22 that I ordered (blind!) and I'm sitting here thinking, "Is this going to be enough?"
OMG, I love this! I might need a backup. Thanks for the recs. How is the current no 22 Parfum, BTW?

LOL - congrats! Only a true Basenoter thinks they need a backup immediately upon opening a 6.8 oz bottle!!!
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post #42 of 56
12/18/11 at 1:32am
Without a doubt NdN is an oriental, especially if you can sniff the extract.

Vol de Nuit is in edt powdery woody in parfum richer in the woods less powder. I class it as an oriental as well.

My first brush with aldehydic florals was No5, which to be honest is just vile on me. I avoided this family like the plague for years thinking all aldehydic florals where the same as No5. Now Guerlain Liu is considered by many to be a copycat of No5 but it works on my skin and for me is different.
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post #43 of 56
12/18/11 at 9:14am
Donna, I smelled new Liu and it is quite different from #5. The aldehydes are there, but they are different, and the woody drydown of Liu (I smelled incense too) is a completely different story.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fleurine View Post

I just opened the 6.8 oz bottle of Chanel no 22 that I ordered (blind!) and I'm sitting here thinking, "Is this going to be enough?"
OMG, I love this! I might need a backup. Thanks for the recs. How is the current no 22 Parfum, BTW?

Congrats on your successful and risky blind buy! I'm glad it's working out!
I haven't tried Parfum...
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post #44 of 56
12/18/11 at 2:24pm
Thread Starter 
I actually smelled No. 22 years ago and did not particularly like it...but everyone just kept talking about how incensey it is, and I am a fool for well done incense, as well as aldehydes, so I figured BN would not let me down, and I decided to give it a try.
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post #45 of 56
12/18/11 at 8:59pm
well, there we go!!
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post #46 of 56
12/23/11 at 9:26pm
Tonight I am wearing Tiffany, and I felt I had to add it to this thread. It's a nose-searing dose of fatty aldehydes, but boy, darnit is it a great old classic.
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post #47 of 56
12/24/11 at 10:30am
Fleurine, I fell in love with No. 22 this year. I've just ordered a bottle of parfum and am very anxious about it.
The EDT is beyond gorgeous, so I can only imagine how wonderful the parfum must be.
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post #48 of 56
4/5/12 at 4:50pm
Thank you for all this wondeful insight! How does Nina compare to Arpege and Arpege to Madame Rochas (all these thee to each other), and maybe to Amouage Gold? Thank you !
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post #49 of 56
4/5/12 at 4:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post

Tonight I am wearing Tiffany, and I felt I had to add it to this thread. It's a nose-searing dose of fatty aldehydes, but boy, darnit is it a great old classic.

Thank you for all this wondeful insight! How does Nina compare to Arpege and Arpege to Madame Rochas (all these thee to each other), and maybe to Amouage Gold? Thank you !
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post #50 of 56
4/5/12 at 8:00pm
Of the vintages with that aldehyde blast, I am having affairs with: vintage My Sin and Chanel 5. I need to get some 22 in my life, soon.

Lancome Climat is becoming a favorite of mine. It lifts into my nose like a silk blue cloud rising fast on a blast of aldhydic, metalic flower power. Did that make any sense?

I love this family of scents.
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post #51 of 56
4/5/12 at 11:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Perszona View Post

Thank you for all this wondeful insight! How does Nina compare to Arpege and Arpege to Madame Rochas (all these thee to each other), and maybe to Amouage Gold? Thank you !


I would definitely place Nina in the same category as Amouage Gold Woman and Madame Rochas (Amouage Gold to my nose is simply a perfection of Madame Rochas, by the same perfumer Guy Robert, of course). Nina has the same type of character and the same heavy dose of civet as those two; it could be a Guy Robert perfume! I love them all.

Arpege is another beast altogether. Powdery, powdery. I cannot even think of many things it smells like, but I am not a fan.
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post #52 of 56
4/6/12 at 3:58am
Thank you Hillaire! I love Gold and I want to buy a vintage perfume that is similar, but I only want to buy one as I already have too many perfumes , so I wanted to get some information on them (I wish there were more reviews online, especially of Nina). It is so much fun to try all these old perfumes. For example, I tried yesterday Alain Delon Lyra (vintage), and I was stunned how much it reminded me of a more citrus/less powder version of Shalimar! Even my little daughter loved it, and she rarely likes "Mommy's treasures", as she puts it, (except for Tauer's Une Rose Vermeille, because of the strawberries, I presume). Then, I tried Oscar Oscar de la Renta, which I thought I would love, however I found it pleasant but lacking "hip action", so to speak. And, I tried Patou's Sublime (vintage again) which, on the other hand, is such a unique creation! I recently fell for the two Chanel aldehydes (5 and 22), both of which I hated as a teenager. Now, I love them, especially No 22. BTW, if that picture is of you on the left, you are very beautiful (if you don't mind me saying so)! If I had to assign a perfume to you in my collection (which is of course a complete projection on my part but it is fun , it would be Krizia Teatro alla Scala . Anyway, thank you for the advise again!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post

I would definitely place Nina in the same category as Amouage Gold Woman and Madame Rochas (Amouage Gold to my nose is simply a perfection of Madame Rochas, by the same perfumer Guy Robert, of course). Nina has the same type of character and the same heavy dose of civet as those two; it could be a Guy Robert perfume! I love them all.

Arpege is another beast altogether. Powdery, powdery. I cannot even think of many things it smells like, but I am not a fan.
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post #53 of 56
4/6/12 at 6:55pm
Thank you Perszona, I happen to love Teatro alla Scala!
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post #54 of 56
4/7/12 at 1:23am
Perszona that would be a fantastic game - assign a perfume to a BNer of your choice, either for their online persona or their avatar.

Could be a synch of the future
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post #55 of 56
4/7/12 at 3:40am
Indeed, but most people don't have their pic shown here and it is very difficult to assign scents to them without seeing their eyes and face (at least I could not do it, I don't think). However, I agree; this would be GREAT fun, I know I would love people to assign perfumes to me ! BTW, I've just got hold of three J. Fath bottles, including Iris Gris, with a tiny amount of perfume still left in them (I am SO excited, I never encountered Iris Gris before!), and I will post a review of them next week !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alityke View Post

Perszona that would be a fantastic game - assign a perfume to a BNer of your choice, either for their online persona or their avatar.

Could be a synch of the future
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post #56 of 56
4/7/12 at 7:20am
They often do that on Makeupalley – someone will post her photo and ask for fragrance recommendations. I think it’s sweet. The person usually gets a lot of responses with good recommendations. It’s interesting to see how others perceive us, scent-wise. That would be a fun idea for a synch.
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