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Histoires de Parfums 1740 (Marquis de Sade)

post #1 of 59
12/16/11 at 12:15am
Thread Starter 
This really is an enigmatic fragrance to say the least. One which is both inimitable and compelling, yet slightly repulsive at time (a bit like the Marquis de Sade himself and what I’m assuming Hdp were aiming for with their concept). With that being said, I’m truly undecided on whether I like it enough to purchase it. On one hand it’s dense, sweet, animalic, leathery, complex and unusual, which are all the hallmarks I look for in a fragrance.

Yet on the other hand it has this somewhat sour mentholated medicinal feel akin to Tiger Balm and a combination of Witch Hazel, with a sweet curry tinge (the immortal). I can’t stop sniffing the back of my hand though from the small sample vial and I’m truly on the fence with my feelings. This is definitely not love at first sniff, but I'm anticipating coming around to eventually love it. Very polarizing!

What are your current thoughts on this one? As I know a lot of you love this bad boy and mirror Luca Turin’s 5-star rating.
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post #2 of 59
12/16/11 at 12:24am
I am glad that I have this in my collection which I think is a very nice fragrance. A little of this on my skin goes a long way. one of the good ones in their line IMO.
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post #3 of 59
12/16/11 at 12:38am
I much prefer Amber 114 and 1725 Casanova.

1740's note of immortel just doesn't please my nose. Its leather is reminiscent of Trumper's Spanish Leather, in that it struck me as a 'fruity' leather - as though exuding from a hide soaked in the juice of sugar-plums. My least favourite kind of leather impression. Leather and immortel aside, I feel that Habit Rouge has something of 1740's slightly weird air (and longevity) ; I'd opt for that over this, personally.

But I've only tried this once, on my wrists and on paper, so my impression is given with a grain of salt.
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post #4 of 59
12/16/11 at 12:43am
I like this scent though I haven't had much of a chance to wear it and now the hotter weather is here in Australia I'll have to wait until it cools down. This fragrance will certainly make you stand out in a crowd and, in my opinion, in a good way.
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post #5 of 59
12/16/11 at 12:54am
It's a daring combination of dark and sweet. Sweet that I can't tolerate sadly. I despise the immortelle note.
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post #6 of 59
12/16/11 at 12:56am
I can't cope with the immortelle either. Not at all.
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post #7 of 59
12/16/11 at 1:11am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post

It's a daring combination of dark and sweet. Sweet that I can tolerate sadly. I despise the immortelle note.

Yeah, it's very similar to Sables in terms of sweetness, with the common immortelle note.
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post #8 of 59
12/16/11 at 1:38am
I bought it when it came out and I have been working on getting to like it ever since - earnestly and diligently.

Immortelle is not my favourite note but having experienced it in Immortelle de Corse I am giving it another look. 1740 is a ballsy piece of work whether it suits your taste or not, IMO - it's alive.
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post #9 of 59
12/16/11 at 1:41am
It's the best of the HdP line IMO.
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post #10 of 59
12/16/11 at 1:47am
Masterpieces are very rare, expecially in modern/contemporary perfumery, but If I'd have to choose a bunch of compositions to represent this cathegory 1740 would be surely among them.
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post #11 of 59
12/16/11 at 1:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larimar View Post

I can't cope with the immortelle either. Not at all.

So do I.
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post #12 of 59
12/16/11 at 7:40am
I love it. It's my "black" fragrance (along with Serge Noir) for cold days when I want something unusual. I love it's strange dual warming and unsettling personality. Very special, with a strong character.
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post #13 of 59
12/16/11 at 7:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larimar View Post

I can't cope with the immortelle either. Not at all.

Same with me. Really wanted to love it, it the immortelle too strong...I was hoping for more leather.
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post #14 of 59
12/16/11 at 8:09am
the opening is fascinating but It becomes a bit cloying at the end of the day with that liquorous sweetness that never completely shut down.The immortelle here, you may like it or not but is sure that It will not leave you indifferent.
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post #15 of 59
12/16/11 at 8:14am
Immortelle is an "acquired taste" of sorts, if you don't like it in 1740, then you probably won't like it in any other fragrance =/ I personally enjoy immortelle and i think it's perfectly done in this case. I find the fragrance to be overall a masterpiece, rich, unusual, complex, a great example of what high end niche perfumery is all about.
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post #16 of 59
12/16/11 at 8:25am
Immortelle works very well with leather.
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post #17 of 59
12/16/11 at 9:35am
Not sure about 1740. To me the opening smells like a rich BBQ sauce - albeit a good one. I quite like the wet leather accord, once the dark fruitiness has subsided, but I think this one will be a private sniffer. To put it flippantly, I'm not sure I want to smell like I've been messy with the marinade at a rained out rodeo.

I will nonetheless perservere with 1740, because I admit I keep sniffing my wrist every few minutes. Mmm, a nice juicy T-Bone tonight I think.
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post #18 of 59
12/16/11 at 9:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by petruccijc View Post

It's the best of the HdP line IMO.

I totally agree. I really cannot find any fault in this particular fragrance. Good stuff and worth the monies if you like it enough.
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post #19 of 59
12/16/11 at 2:08pm
There are so many great things about this fragrance, and I love immortelle. But in the end it is just too powdery for me. I go Sables and Luxe Patchouli instead.
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post #20 of 59
12/16/11 at 3:21pm
I enjoy this of the HdP line, but it's not for everyone. I much prefer the 1889 Moulin Rouge in this line for my leather.
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post #21 of 59
12/29/11 at 5:09am
Thread Starter 
My bottle just arrived from Paris. HdP were very generous including a travel spray of 1740, along with 6 samples.Still trying to wrap my nose and brain around it!
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post #22 of 59
12/29/11 at 5:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke Hunt View Post

My bottle just arrived from Paris. HdP were very generous including a travel spray of 1740, along with 6 samples.Still trying to wrap my nose and brain around it!

Nice gifts you've got with your purchase! I hope you'll end up loving HdP - it deserves it.
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post #23 of 59
12/29/11 at 11:30am
To my shock, I bought my second bottle, THIS SCENT HAS BEEN REFORMULATED, it now smells like aunt jemima maple syrup!!!! what happened?!?!
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post #24 of 59
12/29/11 at 11:35am
musclegood007:

you seem to agree with Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. In his new book, he downgrades it (badly) saying that it has been reformulated. I have not tried myself the more recent version.

How would you describe the difference? there was maple syrup in the original too.

cacio
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post #25 of 59
1/27/12 at 1:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by cacio View Post

musclegood007:

you seem to agree with Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. In his new book, he downgrades it (badly) saying that it has been reformulated. I have not tried myself the more recent version.

How would you describe the difference? there was maple syrup in the original too.

cacio

Ditto - I've got the square 120ml bottle. I presume it's the new formulation. How does this differ from the original? I love it but the old version gets even better reviews
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post #26 of 59
1/27/12 at 1:51pm
I do not like it. There's this funky, almost-sour sweaty smell beneath the spicy top that doesn't sit right with me. I also find it fairly cloying.
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post #27 of 59
1/27/12 at 1:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buysblind View Post

I do not like it. There's this funky, almost-sour sweaty smell beneath the spicy top that doesn't sit right with me. I also find it fairly cloying.

Is that the original formulation?
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post #28 of 59
1/27/12 at 1:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buysblind View Post

I do not like it. There's this funky, almost-sour sweaty smell beneath the spicy top that doesn't sit right with me. I also find it fairly cloying.

I'm almost certain that's the immortele. I too dislike it.
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post #29 of 59
1/27/12 at 2:04pm
The immortelle is indeed sweet, somewhat sour (though not particularly sweaty). However, the immortelle was at the heart of the vintage formulation too, so that's not the reformulation. LT seem to imply that the leather and tobacco notes are downplayed in favor of a spicy rosiness.

Vintage or not, one needs to like immortelle for a fragrance like this.

cacio
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post #30 of 59
1/27/12 at 4:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by musclegod007 View Post

To my shock, I bought my second bottle, THIS SCENT HAS BEEN REFORMULATED, it now smells like aunt jemima maple syrup!!!! what happened?!?!

OMG! That's one of my worst nightmare! Fortunately I've a back up bottle of the original formulation. Let's hope it's just a matter of batches...
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post #31 of 59
1/27/12 at 5:31pm
I can't believe I've missed this thread! HdP 1740 continues to be my favorite frag of all times. I imagine fermented fruits and flowers that the Marquis probably rubbed on his body to cover up all the unspeakable acts he had been involved in.

I think it's unique and it is always my "go-to" when I want to really assert myself!
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post #32 of 59
1/27/12 at 5:39pm
It's a cool frag, I have the old one that came in the white box with a balloon on the front. Smells really strong and intense, like a Lutens on steroids.
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post #33 of 59
1/27/12 at 9:10pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cacio View Post

The immortelle is indeed sweet, somewhat sour (though not particularly sweaty). However, the immortelle was at the heart of the vintage formulation too, so that's not the reformulation. LT seem to imply that the leather and tobacco notes are downplayed in favor of a spicy rosiness.

Vintage or not, one needs to like immortelle for a fragrance like this.

cacio

What rating does he give the reformulation?
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post #34 of 59
1/27/12 at 11:15pm
I find this scent intriguing and not sure if I love or dislike it. For right now, I love it.

I don't know why but I always imagine going to the opera when I smell this.
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post #35 of 59
1/28/12 at 5:18am
Its a love or hate relationship with 1740. Immortelle makes it this way. Immortelle can get quite cloying but if applied lightly has a heavenly effect that lasts through out the day. 1740 is a "masterpiece in my books"because the perfumer creation was thinking öut of the box"!
I am glad I have this in my collection and consider it a wear based on mood and situation/occassion!
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post #36 of 59
1/28/12 at 9:13am
Dukehunt:

the new book has no rating. But the comment on the reformulation is quite negative, they call it a sort of Kenzo Jungle thing, with dried roses and fruit instead of leather and tobacco.

cacio
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post #37 of 59
1/28/12 at 2:48pm
Where do you get the old formulation from? Is it still for sale?
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post #38 of 59
1/28/12 at 11:31pm
Reformulated?? How tragic. I adore the old the leather and the immortelle with the dried fruits.

For the record, Guerlain's London 04 from the Les Voyages collection has an interesting "jam tart" note. Also has leather, although this is usually not included in official notes. The package advertising states this, and cites its inspiration as the Royal Mews.
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post #39 of 59
1/29/12 at 11:19am
I dunno if I had original or reformulated, but I love the scent,
and I kind of wonder why no one mentioned that 1740 smells a lot like (actually, quite popular) LAPHROAIG single malt scotch whisky. Peaty, leathery etc. Ok, maybe it's just me.

Regards, Odor.
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post #40 of 59
1/29/12 at 11:22am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by The-odor View Post

I dunno if I had original or reformulated, but I love the scent,
and I kind of wonder why no one mentioned that 1740 smells a lot like (actually, quite popular) LAPHROAIG single malt scotch whisky. Peaty, leathery etc. Ok, maybe it's just me.

Regards, Odor.

Nope, you're not the only one. I get Scotch too.
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post #41 of 59
1/29/12 at 3:19pm
Reformulated AND a new $205 price tag? (The old price was $185 USD.) How sad.
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post #42 of 59
1/29/12 at 3:36pm
Wait...are y'all talking about a reformulation of 1740 or of Immortelle? There is a lot of talk about Immortelle on this thread, and I'm having trouble keeping them separate. I hope 1740 has not been reformulated!
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post #43 of 59
1/29/12 at 3:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lionheart View Post

I hope 1740 has not been reformulated!

1740 has been (appearantly) reformulated. I'm still hoping it's just a matter of batches....

@The-Odor: the (supposedly) reformulated one is easily recognizable because the new packaging comes with the usual 125ml bottle plus an additional travel atomizer.
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post #44 of 59
1/29/12 at 4:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfarom View Post

1740 has been (appearantly) reformulated. I'm still hoping it's just a matter of batches....

@The-Odor: the (supposedly) reformulated one is easily recognizable because the new packaging comes with the usual 125ml bottle plus an additional travel atomizer.

THAT SUCKS because it is my favorite frag. I can only hope that it is not dramatic change, and my nose is not keen enough to tell the difference!
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post #45 of 59
2/3/12 at 6:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfarom View Post

1740 has been (appearantly) reformulated. I'm still hoping it's just a matter of batches....

@The-Odor: the (supposedly) reformulated one is easily recognizable because the new packaging comes with the usual 125ml bottle plus an additional travel atomizer.

Does anyone know when the reformulation happened and how to tell if a bottle is reformulate juice or not? Anything else besides the new packaging described above?

I have a small travel spray of 1740 - does that mean it's the reformulation?

Would love to get a big bottle of the vintage stuff...
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post #46 of 59
12/2/12 at 4:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfarom View Post

1740 has been (appearantly) reformulated. I'm still hoping it's just a matter of batches....

@The-Odor: the (supposedly) reformulated one is easily recognizable because the new packaging comes with the usual 125ml bottle plus an additional travel atomizer.

I love the 1740!!

Can we assume, then, that the smaller 60 ml bottles are the new formulation? These are the ones that look literally like the 125 ml bottle chopped in half, a very ugly design and concept.
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post #47 of 59
12/2/12 at 11:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Primrose View Post

I love the 1740!!

Can we assume, then, that the smaller 60 ml bottles are the new formulation? These are the ones that look literally like the 125 ml bottle chopped in half, a very ugly design and concept.

Prim, my interview with Gerald Ghislain will be on-line here on Basenotes later this week. I asked him about 1740.
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post #48 of 59
12/3/12 at 4:52am
This is disappointing news.

My experience of 1740 is only from 'samples' but from what I've smelled it was brilliant - my favourite.

Had always assumed my samples came from the newer, square bottles.

Puts me right off chucking my money at a big bottle now
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post #49 of 59
12/3/12 at 6:56am
Great frag , realy enjoying this one... at first , i've felt to mouch of dry fruit, now i get it and it is one of my fav.
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post #50 of 59
12/3/12 at 7:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larimar View Post

I can't cope with the immortelle either. Not at all.

Same with me. I just don't like immortelle being that dominant.
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post #51 of 59
12/3/12 at 7:58am
I'm really upset about this news of reformulation
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post #52 of 59
12/3/12 at 10:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfarom View Post

Prim, my interview with Gerald Ghislain will be on-line here on Basenotes later this week. I asked him about 1740.

Oh, Alfarom!! I would very much like to read that! HdP is one of my favourite new niche lines: quality, inventiveness, longevity and sillage. PM me when you post your interview!

(I have 1889 Moulin Rouge, 1876 Mata Hari, 1740 Marquis de Sade and 1804 George Sand. I love them all!)
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post #53 of 59
12/15/12 at 6:42pm
What shape is the original formulation bottle?
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post #54 of 59
12/15/12 at 8:30pm
I don't think there were differences in the bottle, though somebody mentioned differences in the packaging (not sure what).

In the interview, Ghislain is very elusive. He cites differences in the source materials, not the composition. He also says that immortelle and patchouli need to mature - which presumably means that after a couple of years things will smell darker.

cacio
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post #55 of 59
12/15/12 at 9:18pm
Great house, great fragrance.
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post #56 of 59
3/8/13 at 3:22pm
hmm, I'm sampling this today and I must say that for me, the leather is what strikes my nose the most. I can't smell any fruit, nor sweetness, the immortelle...how do I recognize this? I find it in a lot of frangrances but I can't quite put my finger on it.

Thank being said, the initial boozy smell is quite playful, an invitation to join the party...but what party is this? When you get to the dry dry leather you'll find that decisions taken buzzed might have undesired consequences. Like, you might find yourself tied. Quite a ride this 1740, eventually leaving me a bit nauseous. If anything, I miss a little sweetness in this animal of a fragrance.

A reviewer on fragrantica said it best: " what a torture to wear it"
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post #57 of 59
3/8/13 at 6:45pm
This one has been on my radar for a while, was contemplating a blind buy as the notes all appeal to me but might kick this to the 'sample first' list after reading the thread
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post #58 of 59
3/9/13 at 2:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Osi1s View Post

This one has been on my radar for a while, was contemplating a blind buy as the notes all appeal to me but might kick this to the 'sample first' list after reading the thread

For 10e you can order 6 samples from their site. good price and you get to experience the goodies. Do take tubereuse 3; animal too. It's the greatest!
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post #59 of 59
3/9/13 at 4:12am
and Noir Patchouli - really good and underated
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