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By Kilian Asian Tales (5 new fragrances inspired by China)

post #1 of 59
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By Kilian Asian Tales 5 new fragrances inspired by China



Hot on the heels of the latest release, Amber Oud, Kilian Hennesy of the niche, luxe perfume brand By Kilian is announcing a new collection of fragrances: Asian Tales by Kilian. The new fragrances line is a concept of five fragrant editions that will recount the chinese tradition and pay homage to this great culture.



The first installment called Water Caligraphy, is set to launch officially in 2012, and pays homage to the calligraphy arts of the Far East. The perfumer behind Water Calligraphy and Bamboo Harmony is Calice Becker, who created the majority of By Kilian perfumes.



WATER CALLIGRAPHY MAIN NOTES:

sparkling grapefruit zest, cherry blossom, delicate water lily
majestic magnolia, jasmine sambac
cardamom and vetiver




BAMBOO HARMONY MAIN NOTES:

bright notes of bergamot, neroli and orange bigarade
white tea leaves, mimosa, illumineted by a touch of spice
rare essence of mate, woven sensual fig leaves and oak moss



The rest of the collection will comprise:



The Tale of the Bamboo Cutter (2012), The Peony Pavillion (2013), The Peach Flowers Water Source (2014), and The Lotus Flower and the King Dragon (2015).


The new line, Asian Tales by Kilian, was originally conceived as an olfactory journey. But soon the hidden meanings of symbols and words caught on a more spiritual path. Therefore more than a cultural journey, Asian Tales is an invitation to pay tribute to the spiritual tradition in China's illustrious past.

Side by side with his L'Oeuvre Noire collection, now L'Oeuvre Rouge!

Red is the color of luck and good fortune in China, associated with official ceremonies and nobility. Therefore Kilian Hennesy carefully chose to use red as a token of respect and consistency with Chinese culture. Currency is also considered an amulet in China, therefore coins are traditionally tied to a red ribbon as an invitation to prosperity. Therefore the Asian Tales collection is comprised of the familiar black lacquer wooden boxes which are now lined in red satin, juxtaposing these two powerful shades of opposites. The "key" in the boxes now takes the form of a coin, in polished silver, also tied to a red ribbon and bow, to bring good luck to those who will wear the fragrances. The feeling you get upon opening the box is one of a "precious jewel" being revealed.



Last but not least, the medal/coin that accompanies the bottle is engraved with the lucky number 8 (bearer of prosperity and happiness and a mystical nod to the cosmos, due to its perfectly symmetrical shape that represents infinity and perfect balance). This is put side by side with the letter K, the logo of the By Kilian brand.



1.7 oz Natural Spray Water Calligraphy and Bamboo Harmony will retail for 175 from March 2012.
post #2 of 59
EdT's? EdP's?
post #3 of 59
Thinking of the inspiration, I would expect By Kilian to go light and airy with these. But looking at the notes again, I see some heavy hitters there; jasmin, magnolia, cardamom and even oak moss, so who knows. Bamboo Harmony sounds most promising, I hope it turns out to be an unsweet, greenish tea scent.
post #4 of 59
well, hmmm, ohhhh....
post #5 of 59
Just know I will love all five........but bring on the *bamboo harmony* ASAP!
post #6 of 59
Apparently Kilian Hennesy is reading my mind because I've been wondering how China might be represented in perfumery. My interest is piqued...
post #7 of 59
Pretty long wait for the King Dragon, eh? I suppose Ms Becker wants to make sure she has a steady job over the next few years. Wonder how the red packaging will look like though...
post #8 of 59
There's a picture on fragrantica.
post #9 of 59
Not 'my' house... ah yes, it's 3.50 Euros per ml we are talking about. Sounds like EdTs? :P
post #10 of 59
Hmm, I don't understand the logic. 2012 is the year of dragon and they wait another 3 years to introduce King Dragon?
post #11 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronin E-Ville View Post

Apparently Kilian Hennesy is reading my mind because I've been wondering how China might be represented in perfumery. My interest is piqued...

How about Guerlain's Voyages series: Une ville, un parfum?

I am interested in the offerings of By Kilian. Thank you for sharing.

For an Asian inspiration, Romeo d'Ameor made The Empresses of Japan (Les Imperiatrices Japonaises) Florals with incense. The Guide calls it the best in the line, as a "floral joss stick."

From NST:

"white floral notes (peony, lily, ylang-ylang, heliotrope). Another breeze brings the soft and powdery notes of iris and violet…” Also has notes of freesia, melon, violet, rose, lily-of-the-valley, orris root, vetiver, teak wood, sandalwood and tonka bean."

http://www.nstperfume.com/2008/11/12...-new-perfumes/
post #12 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Primrose View Post

How about Guerlain's Voyages series: Une ville, un parfum?
<snip>

Yes, Guerlain already has Tokyo and apparently Shanghai is coming: http://www.basenotes.net/content/100...n-Parfum-range
post #13 of 59
I think I'll go broke sampling these.
post #14 of 59
The Bamboo one sounds interesting - it will be interesting to see how this one is weighted with those notes.

I wonder if we'll see a decent Osmanthus turn up amongst these at some point? It's an under-explored note IMO, either pretty literal (Hermes / TDC) or apricot suede (Daim Blond) but it's capable of a lot more, and that's just going on the way it's used in cuisine . . . and there's some very interesting oud like essences in the west around Szechuan province that could be pressed into service (little pun, there, notice that?).

I just hope Kilian doesn't buy into this 'yes, but Asians like light floral notes' cliché that just won't go away.

I think Ginger will feature in the new Guerlain, BTW.
post #15 of 59
They sound very interesting.
post #16 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

. . . and there's some very interesting oud like essences in the west around Szechuan province that could be pressed into service (little pun, there, notice that?).

Lord help us if we have to debate whether Himalayan nard is part of Chinese fragrance or not! Or how much discussion of jasmine is "ok" before the thread needs to disappear!



Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

I just hope Kilian doesn't buy into this 'yes, but Asians like light floral notes' cliché that just won't go away.

...

Oy vey! My wife (Japanese) doesn't help break that stereotype. JCE - transparency - light soliflores - she prefers them all - although she does love some potent old Creeds and the infamous Tea Rose flower bomb.

Honestly, I think Kilian will do this right. I would be shocked if he went cliché-level subtle. And besides, I tend to think of the (arguable) preference for subtle F&F as more of a Japanese thing - if that cliché has any validity at all, as it does in sweets and fine confections, where big and bold seem to be more "gehin" (or certainly are, according to my wife).

I agree on the osmanthus - it would be nice to see more emphasis on it.
post #17 of 59
They all sound very interesting. Kilian's perfumes are very potent.
post #18 of 59
And while we're on the subject, today is a Public Holiday here and throughout China and some other Asian countries as we celebrate New Year's Day.

Happy Lunar New Year to everybody whether you are in Asia or not, wishing you a Happy, Healthy & Prosperous Year of the Dragon
post #19 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

And while we're on the subject, today is a Public Holiday here and throughout China and some other Asian countries as we celebrate New Year's Day.

Happy Lunar New Year to everybody whether you are in Asia or not, wishing you a Happy, Healthy & Prosperous Year of the Dragon

恭喜發財 -> kung hei fat choi -> Best wishes for a prosperous year!!!
post #20 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

And while we're on the subject, today is a Public Holiday here and throughout China and some other Asian countries as we celebrate New Year's Day.

Happy Lunar New Year to everybody whether you are in Asia or not, wishing you a Happy, Healthy & Prosperous Year of the Dragon

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronin E-Ville View Post

恭喜發財 -> kung hei fat choi -> Best wishes for a prosperous year!!!

Definitely! Happy New Year, guys!
post #21 of 59
Personally, I'm really looking forward to the Water Calligraphy release. Visiting my wife's uncle's calligraphy studio was one of the high points of our last trip to Japan. I would love to see what Calice Becker and Kilian do with that idea.
post #22 of 59
Is is true a lot of people this this house is over rated, I actually enjoyed a few?
post #23 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oupavoc View Post

Is is true a lot of people this this house is over rated, I actually enjoyed a few?

I don't think it's overrated. Kilian is very serious about fragrance, and I think it shows in the juice. He has a good thing going with Calice Becker, and they consistently crank out stuff that is rich, complex, smooth, and classy. He pays attention to presentation, but not as a front - rather to bring it up to the quality of the juice. His stuff is worthy of becoming a signature scent for the most finicky taste, though I could never fall for one scent, personally.

They are pricey. There's no denying that. But seriously, you get what you pay for, IMO. There is polish on his stuff, and it smells nearly 100% great from beginning to end. That costs money to pull off. I love several of his frags at FBW levels, and actually have one FB in the fancy box and all.
post #24 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post

I don't think it's overrated. Kilian is very serious about fragrance, and I think it shows in the juice. He has a good thing going with Calice Becker, and they consistently crank out stuff that is rich, complex, smooth, and classy. He pays attention to presentation, but not as a front - rather to bring it up to the quality of the juice. His stuff is worthy of becoming a signature scent for the most finicky taste, though I could never fall for one scent, personally.

They are pricey. There's no denying that. But seriously, you get what you pay for, IMO. There is polish on his stuff, and it smells nearly 100% great from beginning to end. That costs money to pull off. I love several of his frags at FBW levels, and actually have one FB in the fancy box and all.

Are you following me lol :P

Yeah the ones I tried I loved right away, the presentation is like Apple esk imo.
post #25 of 59
No Saks near me but apparently these are now available as of today. Anyone living near a Saks want to swing by, test them and give us some initial reviews? Very curious about the Bamboo scent
post #26 of 59
I'll be getting samples of these soon, all thanks to joining by kilian fanpage on facebook
post #27 of 59
I joined months ago and have yet to receive anything
post #28 of 59
Looking forward to trying these out ! Especially the bamboo scent ( hoping there's an aroma of bamoboo in it . ) There are not enough bamboo scents around !
post #29 of 59
Indeed the first two are available at sacks but no uk shipping alas ... And we are still waiting for sweet redemption here too
post #30 of 59
I'm waiting for someone to get on the Roasted Duck accord.

To be honest, I suspect something nice could come of that.

Even if all it means is that you become appreciated by cats.

.
post #31 of 59
Kilian Hennesy [French accent, imperfect English pronunciation]:

"Err, okay, so we've established ourselves in the West with L’Oeuvre Noire Collection and, err, have attracted the lucratif Middle Eastern market with our Arabian Nights Collection. So err, what is next? Hmmmm...

Oooooooh! Oui, oui, oui!!! China is supposed to be the next, err, super economee, no? Why don't we, err, create a collection particulièrement for Ahsia! Yes, but let's bring in a leettle, err, spiritualitee. C'est géniale! Ooh la la!"
post #32 of 59
If you do join his facebook page you'll likely get samples for free in the mail. Lots of people here got Amber Oud...

I am interested to try the new BK frags, but I'm not sure I will appreciate them... hard to say, but I will give them a try. I just hope they are not done in a style similar to JCE's stuff, I am not a big fan of his "minimalist" frags, many of which are far too synthetic-heavy... (put DOWN the iso-e super!).
post #33 of 59
Just noticed on Saks website that Kilian will be at Tysons Corner location Saturday April 21st from 1-5 for the launch of Asian Tales. Looks like I'm driving to Virginia.
post #34 of 59
I really respect By Kilian and his marketin concept, but Back To Black is the only gem I found from his entire line.
I don´t know why I really cannot love his fragrances, although I want to like and love them

His fragrances smell like miscompleted to me inspite of good ingredients, good ideas and concepts.

His fragrances are just fragrances for room. I will not spray them on my skin, but in my room.
post #35 of 59
Has anyone tried these new ones yet? I can't believe there's not a single initial impression anywhere on these
post #36 of 59
I really respect By Kilian and his marketin concept, but Back To Black is the only gem I found from his entire line.
I don´t know why I really cannot love his fragrances, although I want to like and love them

His fragrances smell like miscompleted to me inspite of good ingredients, good ideas and concepts.

His fragrances are just fragrances for room. I will not spray them on my skin, but in my room.
post #37 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by flouris View Post

Has anyone tried these new ones yet? I can't believe there's not a single initial impression anywhere on these

I still haven't found any of these available for sale or sampling.
post #38 of 59
Yeah I think you have to actually visit a Saks to test them out. Unfortunately the Saks in Portland closed but most other major cities seem to have them still. Just weird nobody has tried them yet.
post #39 of 59
to all basenoter tycoons, host split for these fragrance please....
post #40 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Temptation View Post


His fragrances are just fragrances for room. I will not spray them on my skin, but in my room.

I really like BtB too. You know they sell candles? ...might be cheaper than using the edp as a room spray, lol.
post #41 of 59
I tried Water Caligraphy today from the sample set they sent out (had Bamboo Harmony too).

The first thing that hits you is the grapefruit and its definately the zest and pithy type as opposed to the fleshy kind, Its supported by a very floral underlayer and a slightly dry cherry blossom leaf which is really well done. The base smells a little like ylang-ylang but its quite a subtle impression of a magnolia and jasmine.

I was hoping for a little more intrigue but it smells a little too familar and many will find it safe, Its does what the name suggests as its watery and has an air of purity but thankfully not transparent and has the usual quality mark you'd expect from this house.

The florals are very evident and are the mainstay of the fragrance so maybe it leans towards the feminine side of unisex but I'd have no problem wearing it again.

I'll give Bamboo Harmony a go tomorrow.
post #42 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by lucasai View Post

I'll be getting samples of these soon, all thanks to joining by kilian fanpage on facebook

Apparently posted out yesterday. I'm a club member of long standing but have never received anything. Sent out 6000 sample sets but I note >14000 Killian Club members so maybe not every member gets them.

Please review when you get your samples
post #43 of 59


What do you get if you take Invasion Barbare and remove the violet accord and replace it with bright shimmering Tea? You get a good approximation of what Bamboo Harmony does.

Its a great modern Fougere which has a very similar structure to MDCI's offering. It doesn't quite have the suave ambiance of IB but its a more delicate take on the same theme (they could be brother and sister). Its been a freezing cold day here so its not really had its chance to shine and I'll try it again when the weather isn't so crappy.

100% unisex and very easy to wear. Thumbs up so far.
post #44 of 59
Thanks for posting your reviews, Kron. Both sound very interesting.
post #45 of 59
Kron thank you very much for your impressions and the photo!
post #46 of 59
saw these first two at Saks in NYC... I won't write a review since I just sniffed at them so didn't get a proper impressions...


oh, btw I think the red plush with black box looks nice!
post #47 of 59
Thanks Kron for the reviews. Now I have to try Bamboo Harmony...
post #48 of 59
... Woah! Definitely sounds interesting.
post #49 of 59
They will probably do quite well here with the casual shopper - nice packaging and both very well crafted, inoffensive, light, uplifting etc. but basically safe and derivative. I'm sorry I can't roll off the names of what they both remind me of but original these are not. I wore Bamboo Harmony again today and I will say it seems to have good ingredients (no cheap notes), and pretty good tenacity and it is, indeed, very nice, but there's nothing here to interest me personally. My fears of above in the thread have materialised
post #50 of 59
I wore Bamboo Harmony yesterday. It is not strong, but it lasts for a long time. My impression was a very soft white tea with osmanthus, although there is no osmanthus note, at least I don't remember that on what I have read. I liked it, it is very pretty, but it is not my style. I would not refuse it if somebody gave it to me (hint, hint ), but I normally go for either greens or orientals. I love several by Kilians, and BH is indeed very beautiful, but not my thing.

I only smelled Water Caligraphy briefly on Friday after I got my samples. I prefer Bamboo Harmony. Water Caligraphy is more, how shall I say, aquatic?. There is a note in the heart that I did not care for. I liked the dry down, but I need to give it a full wearing.
post #51 of 59
Yeah baby, give me some more safe, me too scents.
post #52 of 59
Got my samples, thank you Kilian!

Bamboo harmony starts out with one of the best citrus openings I've yet experienced, they are giving Malle's Bigarade Concentre and Xerjoff's Kobe a run for their money in this department. There is a clean musk, tea and some spices in the background. It is a rather simple, uncluttered scent.

I agree with others that this is a mellow, laid back frag. "Safe", maybe... but IMO this is really well done. I don't necessarily share some BN'ers tastes for shock and awe in my frags though. I think this deserves some wear in the summer heat, it's going to be a great fresh citrus option. I find major issues with many frags in this category for having a synthetic smelling edge to them, Chanel Allure Sport for example... so finding one that comes off as natural smelling and also has at least moderate lasting power is somewhat difficult. I think the people that will like this are ones who appreciate a frag that is both understated yet polished. You can certainly get many, many "similar" frags for far cheaper, but they won't be as polished. IDK, polished is a bad word maybe... I'd say just exceptionally well composed and lacking in obvious flaws. So far, I cannot find anything that I dislike and whatever synthetic aroma chemicals that were used don't stick out and don't bother me.

For people who enjoy frags like TF Neroli Portofino or Malle's Bigarade Concentre, this has a similar vibe but is in a different league... far far superior IMO. It does have a JCE-like vibe to it, but the apparent use of more natural ingredients than JCE normally uses gives the notes a complexity that is lacking in most of JCE's frags. So I guess this is bordering on minimalist, but the quality of the ingredients lift this from becoming a yawn fest despite the simplicity of the composition. I could almost see this as a Hermessence frag, but if it was, it would be the best of the line IMO.

My initial rating is 5/5. Best fresh-citrus frag I've ever tried so far.
post #53 of 59
Water Calligraphy is a nice floral aquatic, definitely feminine leaning... not something I'd wear. It's ok I guess, but I'm not interested in this one.
post #54 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post

.....There are not enough bamboo scents around !

I was just thinking the same thing! More bamboo! Not really. But it made me laugh. :-)

I doubt I'll need any of these but it'll be interesting to see what Calice Becker came up with.
post #55 of 59
So, this is supposedly the new trend in the fragrance industry...

post #56 of 59
But, for now, let's concentrate on the present...

post #57 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

They will probably do quite well here with the casual shopper - nice packaging and both very well crafted, inoffensive, light, uplifting etc. but basically safe and derivative. I'm sorry I can't roll off the names of what they both remind me of but original these are not. I wore Bamboo Harmony again today and I will say it seems to have good ingredients (no cheap notes), and pretty good tenacity and it is, indeed, very nice, but there's nothing here to interest me personally. My fears of above in the thread have materialised

Oh, brother! Well, at least my wife will be happy. Except she's all bought out on these sorts of scents already....

Quote:
Originally Posted by thebeck View Post

Yeah baby, give me some more safe, me too scents.

Exactamente!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dorje123 View Post

Got my samples, thank you Kilian!

Bamboo harmony starts out with one of the best citrus openings I've yet experienced, they are giving Malle's Bigarade Concentre and Xerjoff's Kobe a run for their money in this department. There is a clean musk, tea and some spices in the background. It is a rather simple, uncluttered scent.

I agree with others that this is a mellow, laid back frag. "Safe", maybe... but IMO this is really well done. I don't necessarily share some BN'ers tastes for shock and awe in my frags though. I think this deserves some wear in the summer heat, it's going to be a great fresh citrus option. I find major issues with many frags in this category for having a synthetic smelling edge to them, Chanel Allure Sport for example... so finding one that comes off as natural smelling and also has at least moderate lasting power is somewhat difficult. I think the people that will like this are ones who appreciate a frag that is both understated yet polished. You can certainly get many, many "similar" frags for far cheaper, but they won't be as polished. IDK, polished is a bad word maybe... I'd say just exceptionally well composed and lacking in obvious flaws. So far, I cannot find anything that I dislike and whatever synthetic aroma chemicals that were used don't stick out and don't bother me.

For people who enjoy frags like TF Neroli Portofino or Malle's Bigarade Concentre, this has a similar vibe but is in a different league... far far superior IMO. It does have a JCE-like vibe to it, but the apparent use of more natural ingredients than JCE normally uses gives the notes a complexity that is lacking in most of JCE's frags. So I guess this is bordering on minimalist, but the quality of the ingredients lift this from becoming a yawn fest despite the simplicity of the composition. I could almost see this as a Hermessence frag, but if it was, it would be the best of the line IMO.

My initial rating is 5/5. Best fresh-citrus frag I've ever tried so far.

It does sound well done. I'll see what my wife thinks. When you say Neroli Portofino done right - my ears perk up at that. I love neroli, but I am totally turned off when neroli gets a cleaning solution vibe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dorje123 View Post

Water Calligraphy is a nice floral aquatic, definitely feminine leaning... not something I'd wear. It's ok I guess, but I'm not interested in this one.

This one too - right up her alley.

**********

LOL @ Trebor

And I thought Black Sabbath was a bad influence!
post #58 of 59
I am wearing Water Calligraphy today from a sample. I was hoping for more of the "effervescent magnolia" promised by the advertising, but I still like it. It conjures up landscapes of pink blossoms floating on water. It is suprisingly tenacious, too.

I tried Bamboo Harmony as well. It strongly reminded me of The Different Company De Bachmakov--the similarity is great to my nose. However, Bamboo Harmony is somehow better, more refined... It is a very lively fragrance, perfect for summer, if anyone likes this genre.
post #59 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by catnip_too View Post

I am wearing Water Calligraphy today from a sample. I was hoping for more of the "effervescent magnolia" promised by the advertising, but I still like it. It conjures up landscapes of pink blossoms floating on water. It is suprisingly tenacious, too.

I tried Bamboo Harmony as well. It strongly reminded me of The Different Company De Bachmakov--the similarity is great to my nose. However, Bamboo Harmony is somehow better, more refined... It is a very lively fragrance, perfect for summer, if anyone likes this genre.

Thanks for the update! I remain interested in both, even though I've been unable to get hold of samples yet....
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