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Looking to add an ANTAEUS-like accord to the fragrance I'm making

post #1 of 4
1/27/12 at 6:04pm
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I'm in the process of making a woody masculine fragrance for myself right now. There's a note or accord contained in Chanel's Antaeus that I think would go great with the scent I'm making, but I can't identify what it is.

The smell I'm talking about is most prominent in Antaeus' drydown; it's a tart, semi-sweet smell that also smells animalic, kind of raunchy. It's very strong and up front in Antaeus - you can't miss it. For me, this is what makes Antaeus what it is. I'm wondering if it's labdanum, beeswax, castoreum, but I don't know. Maybe labdanum and castoreum together?

Any input you could give would be really appreciated.
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post #2 of 4
1/27/12 at 6:34pm
most people don't consider labdanum animalic. castoreum, definitely, and beeswax also seems to be considered animalic.
Amongst three only honey/beeswax checks both semi-sweet and animalic IMO.
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post #3 of 4
1/28/12 at 4:54am
Reading the reviews of Antaeus (I don’t have any), the consensus seems to be that it is the castoreum in it that is the stand-out feature. Natural castoreum in particular has a very pronounced sweetening effect in a blend and of course is very animalic. I don’t find synthetic castoreum to be quite so sweetening, though otherwise the effect is very similar.

I’d try with castoreum first and then see if you need to add labdanum and beeswax absolute to it as well: the three can work well together and with castoreum dominating would give the kind of big, powerhouse distinctive scent that the reviewers seem to be describing.
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post #4 of 4
2/9/12 at 3:48pm
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I do have a small bottle of pre-reformulated Antaeus in my car Shamu1 and while I can detect castoreum and labdanum in there I am positive that what makes "Antaeus" an Antaeus (a rather complimentary compliment don't you think? ) is the addition of patchouli and rose!
I am not suggesting those two is what you're looking for, but without them (and most certainly patchouli - its role in this composition is catalytic) on top of castoreum and labdanum you can't have "Antaeus". Also a trace of basil will help.
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