We mustn't forget one thing: Serge Lutens is, before anything else, an Art Director, and a true Master in what the French call "les Arts Plastiques" (nothing to do with plastic) In many respects, he is "the Erte of Now." When he dies, the world will have lost one of its last Great Art Directors of our time: One only must review his career, as this can not be discussed. From Dior, all the way to now, there as never been a Visionary quite like Serge Lutens operating in the world of Taste and Beauty. I have a feeling that if he himself were capable of blending a perfume, they would all be masterpieces, for whatever he touches, with very few exceptions, scales the height of the sublime. Since this isn't the case, inevitably, there will be studies in soaring beauty (numerous) as well as complete miscarriages (Chergui.) I understand the Art of Perfumery, in all of its facets. I do not make my harsh judgement above flippantly, nor do i take it lightly. Believe me when I assert: I "grasp the concept." It's just that "the concept" is here miscarried in a very concisely undeniable way, or, as some have mentioned above, this comp simply failed in its menopause, as have so many others, "La reformulation." There are precious few fragrances that don't, so this is to be understood. I have smelled *only one* reformulation that I would consider an improvement, and that would be the new "Habanita." Comparing Molinard and Sheldrake/Lutens, granted, like comparing chalk and cheese: But a reformulation can be a success. It just hardly, if ever happens.