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Smoky, dark fragrances.

post #1 of 26
2/1/12 at 5:51am
Thread Starter 
Hello.

I recently discovered Amouage's Memoir Woman. Only tried it on paper, thought it was fabulous, and can't wait to go back and try it on properly. I notice from the reviews that not everyone is so keen, but I loved it because it smelt in part (to me) of wood smoke.

I'm keen to try more fragrances with a smoky character, or ones which are suggestive of the colour black. I've had a look at this thread: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/277...DARK-fragrance - but I'm not sure that it's exactly the same thing I'm after - don't mind the Poisons, but don't think of them as dark; Nahema was mentioned, but I'm not keen on it (unusual for me, as I love Guerlain).

I generally like green florals, although increasingly getting more into chypres and some orientals, also anise scents; I love anything with rose, lavender, violets or patchouli - but I don't want anything too sweet.

Can anyone suggest fragrances that I might try please?

Ta!
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post #2 of 26
2/1/12 at 6:00am
Judging by your preferences I would say Midnight Violet by Ava Luxe ( but it's hard to get hold on) and Czech and Speake's #88.C&S #88 isn't particularly smoky,though.
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post #3 of 26
2/1/12 at 6:08am
The first one that comes to mind is Norma Kamali Incense.
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post #4 of 26
2/1/12 at 6:17am
Tom Ford Black Violet.
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post #5 of 26
2/1/12 at 6:50am
Try to track down Le Treizieme Heure by Mathilde Laurent (Cartier). Her concept was exactly that, smoke - par fumare (through smoke) = perfume.

You'll find a review and interview etc. on the Grain de Musc blog, just google it.

Epic Woman is actually very nice, a little darker than Memoir. Did you try Memoir Man?
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post #6 of 26
2/1/12 at 9:23am
L'Artisan Voleur de Roses - an earthy, dry blend of rose and patchouli.
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post #7 of 26
2/1/12 at 10:05am
Thread Starter 
I didn't try Memoir Man, no - although I now plan to!

Thanks all for your suggestions, adding them to my 'to test' list. Then I need to track them down!
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post #8 of 26
2/1/12 at 10:46am
Black Cashmere by Donna Karan is one of the best.

Other great options

Tom Ford Japon Noir
Tom Ford Extreme (marketed as masculine)
Amouage Opus IV
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post #9 of 26
2/1/12 at 10:47am
I think you'll find a lot to like!

Anyone who gravitates towards woody, smoky scents should explore Sonoma Scent Studio. Her line ranges from very literal variants like Fireside and [b]Winter Woods[b], to dark, woody florals like Wood Violet and Vintage Rose. Laurie's style tends towards dry, earthy, woody scents; I've yet to try one of hers I found too light or sweet.

Someone exploring Amouage will probably also find something to enjoy in the Serge Lutens. Given your tastes, I'd recommend Fille En Aiguilles, Chene, and Serge Noire ( all three literal trees, pine, oak, and cedar respectively ), and also some of his "Bois" series, based around a now-famous cedar-plum-violet accord ( Feminite du Bois being the original, but Bois Violette might appeal most ), or one of his dark orientals, Fumerie Turque, or perhaps his lavender, Gris Clair.
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post #10 of 26
2/1/12 at 11:03am
Oh, how could i forgot

Fille en Aiguilles +1
Serge Noire +1
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post #11 of 26
2/1/12 at 11:13am
My hands-down smoky and dark fragrance choices are Serge Lutens' Fumerie Turque (smoky tobacco and honey) and Borneo 1834 (dark and dusty cocoa - patchouly. I'd also recommend you By Kilian's Back to black (another tobacco scent) and CB I hate Perfumes's Burning Leaves.
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post #12 of 26
2/1/12 at 11:14am
Patchouli 24
Eau du Fier
Preludio d'Oriente
Dzongkha
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post #13 of 26
2/1/12 at 11:19am
Dry, smoky, dark, no sweetness whatsoever, a fougere, which it sounds as if you may like; Etat Libre D'Orange, Eloge Du Traitre.
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post #14 of 26
2/1/12 at 11:41am
pascal morabito's or black.
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post #15 of 26
2/1/12 at 2:11pm
Wow, great suggestions already...I'l second Sugandaraja's, Hedonist's, Foustie's and Gido's but Ill add a few more...

Profumum Arso
Profumum Fumidus
Dior Leather Oud
Lonestar Memories
Memo Shams
Dark Aoud
Eau Des Iles
Comme Des Garcons 2 Man
Breath Of God
Black Tourmaline
Lisa Kirk Revolution

for further infos on the above fragrances you might want to check the reviews section...
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post #16 of 26
2/1/12 at 5:48pm
How about Gucci Pour Homme (the first one).
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post #17 of 26
2/2/12 at 12:33pm
Ratfink, so glad you opened this post, as I was thinking on this line of fragrances lately. As a matter of fact, I'm in Memoir Woman today

May I add NU and LYRIC WOMANto the suggestions list? I cannot tell much on the re-issue of NU, but I very much love the vintage one.
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post #18 of 26
2/2/12 at 12:54pm
Shalimar: citrus and smoky leather, with vanilla
Habanita: a complus mix of smoky tobacco and florals with powder
Cuir de Lancome: smoky leather with jasmine
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post #19 of 26
2/2/12 at 5:55pm
suggesting 2 from slumberhouse:

Vikt "Dark balsamic woods slowly oozing sweet metallic oils - motions of soft smokey black agar woods through syrupy bronze resins"

Jeke- "the idea of a night time stroll with burning autumn woods in the distance - something fiery and burnt yet chillingly desolate, November illusory, breath of fog, ablaze. Into this design I sought to embed a defined masculinity - something well-worn yet intellectual, a refinement streamlined with rustic attributes - warmth of cigars in humidors, old leather shoes & odd buckles, traces of a fragmented sweet spice, the mysterious atmosphere that adorns the well traveled." I believe someone on BN likened it to being in a fireplace.
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post #20 of 26
2/3/12 at 11:12am
I can't detect any difference in the LE Nu and the vintage from memory but I haven't smelt the vintage for maybe 3 years. Got the new Nu and love it.

Churchy dark incense-try Bois D'Encens Armani Prive. Pure dark fragrance bliss
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post #21 of 26
2/3/12 at 1:54pm
Thread Starter 
Wow, thanks everyone. Loads of ideas there!
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post #22 of 26
2/3/12 at 8:40pm
I agree with most of the above suggestions, and will add one that hasn't been mentioned: Japon Noir by Tom Ford. One of the smokiest orientals I've ever smelled.
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post #23 of 26
2/3/12 at 9:42pm
[FONT="Georgia"]I agree with[B] Serge Noir[/B;]; I find it much like Memoir Woman, but more intense.

I also agree whole-heartedly with Black Tourmaline.

I also agree with Cuir de Lancome and TF Black Violet
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post #24 of 26
2/4/12 at 7:56am
Vintage Cabochard extrait. Fille en Aiguilles
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post #25 of 26
2/6/12 at 8:37am
Thread Starter 
Thanks everyone! My 'to test' list is growing rapidly!
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post #26 of 26
2/7/12 at 6:23am
Sombre Negra by Yosh
Cuir by Mona di Orio
Patchouli by M. Micallef
Dark Aoud by Montale
Wazamba by Parfume d'Empire
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Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Female Fragrance Discussion › Smoky, dark fragrances.