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Oakmoss?

post #1 of 13
2/5/12 at 3:47pm
Thread Starter 
I'm not new here, but I am a nivice at identifying notes, so I have two questions about oakmoss, to wit:

what do you think of Camden Grey, would this be a wise purchase?

If I were to get say 5 decants, which ones should I go for to get the full-on oakmoss experience? Do I stick to the chypre category? Vinage only?

My inquiring nose wants to know.

Thank you!
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post #2 of 13
2/5/12 at 4:04pm
Hello,
I’ve not shopped with Camden Grey so I can’t vouch for them one way or the other. However there are quite a few places you can buy Oakmoss absolute and you’ll get a fair idea of what it smells like from most: you only need the top quality stuff if you are going to make a fragrance with it.

As to what to buy, certainly vintage Chypre will give you a good idea as it’s a key component of those (or was before IFRA made it so restricted that it was mostly replaced with synthetics).

But don’t neglect the Fougère category, also based on oakmoss, but in this case in combination with lavender and coumarin. In my view some of the best interpretations of oakmoss are of this type. Also don’t forget that the very first fragrance of this type Fougère Royale, was also the first perfume known to use a synthetic (the coumarin) and has a pedigree going back to 1882: they have to be worth a look IMO.
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post #3 of 13
2/5/12 at 11:27pm
Thread Starter 
@Chris Bartlett: Thank you for such an informative reply. Not planning to make a fragrance with the oakmoss, just sniff it. Thanks also for suggesting fougere category; I had not thought of it perhaps because it's not typically female.

I'm casting about for my "happy birthday to me" present—coming up next month—and was trying to decide between exploring a niche house and exploring a note. I'm thinking now note. I had sent out decants of my favorite fragrance inquiring about it's structure, Mollie Parnis, and got contradicting opinions, particularly as to whether it was a chypre. From there, exploring oakmoss struck me as a necessity to further educate my nose.

Best regards,

jujy
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post #4 of 13
2/6/12 at 11:14am
A good objective - should be fun too. Although Fougère has traditionally been regarded as exclusively masculine, you may find some of the aromatic Fougères with floral notes work for you.

I’ve always been a bit doubtful about the fragrances being gender specific anyway . . .
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post #5 of 13
2/7/12 at 5:46pm
Thread Starter 
Likewise. Back in the early 80s, I wore Givenchy Gentleman as my go to work fragrance. I should scare some up again. Yatagan intrigues me, too (I lust for leather and civet).
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post #6 of 13
3/2/12 at 2:14pm
Thread Starter 
Well,I settled on oakmoss absolute (low atranol) diluted to 10% in fractionated cocnut oil from Nature's Gift. I went with the diluted because the full-strength sounded to sticky and hard to handle for a newbie like me. I'm getting Band-Aid + Marmite or Worcestershire sauce + wet leaves with a soupçon of "death by smelly sneakers"—more pleasant than it sounds. By itself, odd, but now I understand what makes a chypre a chypre.

Later on, as I was taking a walk, I saw some lichen on an oak tree. Crumbled and sniffed, and recognized the earthiness of chypre.

I also have two bottles of Coty Chypre; she is like the mannequin upon which all other chypres are draped. She's the foundation.
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post #7 of 13
3/2/12 at 5:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post

I'm getting Band-Aid + Marmite or Worcestershire sauce + wet leaves with a soupçon of "death by smelly sneakers"more pleasant than it sounds.

The pure absolute does rather resemble Marmite in color and texture as well, now you mention it
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post #8 of 13
3/3/12 at 6:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post

. . . Coty Chypre; she is like the mannequin upon which all other chypres are draped. . .

What a lovely turn of phrase - I might borrow that next time Im writing on the subject

Glad to know the project worked too.
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post #9 of 13
3/3/12 at 9:04am
Is this still being used or have they gone synthetic?
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post #10 of 13
3/3/12 at 9:11am
In high-end fragrances it is certainly still being used, although the IFRA restriction is quite severe at 0.1% of the finished product.

What that means for my own retail products is that I use a combination of synthetics - there are a couple of good ones on the market - plus as much of the real thing as Im able to put in. I think that approach is quite common in amongst indie perfumers but I dont know whether the big houses prefer to simply go all synthetic.

When working to a commission the client is king and can have whatever they want of course.
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post #11 of 13
3/3/12 at 9:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Bartlett View Post

In high-end fragrances it is certainly still being used, although the IFRA restriction is quite severe at 0.1% of the finished product.

What that means for my own retail products is that I use a combination of synthetics - there are a couple of good ones on the market - plus as much of the real thing as I’m able to put in. I think that approach is quite common in amongst indie perfumers but I don’t know whether the big houses prefer to simply go all synthetic.

When working to a commission the client is king and can have whatever they want of course.

Oh ok thanks for the info. Are there any fragrances worth looking into with this note?
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post #12 of 13
3/4/12 at 12:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post

Likewise. Back in the early 80s, I wore Givenchy Gentleman as my go to work fragrance. I should scare some up again. Yatagan intrigues me, too (I lust for leather and civet).

most leather fragrances contained a good dose of oakmoss.
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post #13 of 13
3/4/12 at 12:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post

I also have two bottles of Coty Chypre; she is like the mannequin upon which all other chypres are draped. She's the foundation.

yes, that's it.
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