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Maison Francis Kurkdjian - Oud

post #1 of 103
2/13/12 at 3:45pm
Thread Starter 
Hello guys, i have news... Long time no see by the way During the years, i have dived deep into niche perfumery, sniffing a lot of stuff and by chance, today i had the opportunity to sniff a perfume that's "news"... Francis Kurkdjian's newcomer, "Oud". I think it will be introduced in a few days.

First of all, it's quite Kurkdjian. Mellow, classy and luxury. Not an "on your face type of oud". Subtle but very well balanced oud construction, not anything like a classic arabic oud fragrance. Saffron is out there to balance ouds heavy arabic style. Its transparent yet still charming. I love that kind of oud as in Creed's newbie Royal Oud. In addition to that, i detect a very nice cedar note in the drydown, blending in with a subtle oud...

First impression is; Kurkdjian is a true artist. I crave for that perfume...

Yours sincerely...
Argus
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post #2 of 103
2/13/12 at 3:57pm
Thanks for the news my friend.

I think i will go for something more interesting and new and unique and different, cause Oud it's not it anymore.
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post #3 of 103
2/13/12 at 6:33pm
I cant wait to test this.
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post #4 of 103
2/13/12 at 6:38pm
Thanks for the heads' up. I will look forward to trying this one to see what he can do with it.
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post #5 of 103
2/13/12 at 6:42pm
check your local Neiman Marcus, they may have a tester behind the counter.
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post #6 of 103
2/13/12 at 6:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoGent View Post

check your local Neiman Marcus, they may have a tester behind the counter.

Have you seen a tester at NM?
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post #7 of 103
2/13/12 at 6:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoGent View Post

check your local Neiman Marcus, they may have a tester behind the counter.

I thought MFK was only sold at a couple Neiman Marcus stores in the US (Beverly Hills, Chicago). Has this changed?

EDIT: I see on MFK's site they also sell at Neiman Marcus stores in Atlanta, Boston, Houston, Las Vegas, Bal Harbour Florida, and King of Prussia Pennsylvania. What the heck, no San Francisco?
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post #8 of 103
2/13/12 at 7:07pm
its in just about all of them in Texas. Except for the original NM in downtown Dallas. They have a pitiful selection of frags.
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post #9 of 103
2/13/12 at 7:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by heperd View Post

Have you seen a tester at NM?

a friend is an SA there & sent an invite to come check it out - just haven't made it yet.
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post #10 of 103
2/13/12 at 7:12pm
  • DNT
  • offline
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We don't even have NM here!!
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post #11 of 103
2/13/12 at 7:14pm
I'm really surprised there is no MFK at the SF Neiman Marcus. We have a lot of great designer and niche brands being sold near Union Square - I really can't figure why MFK isn't offered here.
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post #12 of 103
2/13/12 at 7:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNT View Post

We don't even have NM here!!

renfrew ?
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post #13 of 103
2/13/12 at 7:58pm
Interesting.

Being Armenian I wonder what his take on oud will be.
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post #14 of 103
2/13/12 at 9:14pm
Wow! This could be interesting! I love this fragrance house. Any idea on the price? I hope not like AUF =(
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post #15 of 103
2/13/12 at 9:17pm
Sounds very interesting.
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post #16 of 103
2/13/12 at 10:23pm
Big thanks for this. And I'm with Volley: Hope the price is in line with most the other MFK bottles.
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post #17 of 103
2/13/12 at 10:26pm
Oud... saffron.. cedar? I hope it's not as predictable as it sounds.
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post #18 of 103
2/13/12 at 10:37pm
thanks Argus for the heads up ... regrettably, he's kind of late to the party; hopefully, it will be an exceptional fragrance, rather than an also-ran ...
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post #19 of 103
2/14/12 at 1:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post

Oud... saffron.. cedar? I hope it's not as predictable as it sounds.

Right!
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post #20 of 103
2/14/12 at 1:29am
Anythg from Kurkdjian is worth a sniff imo. Let's see if he was fashionably late to the party or the invitation got lost in the mail.
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post #21 of 103
2/14/12 at 2:10am
I'm guessing Kurkdjian showed up late to the party, but is going to leave with all the chicks. I want to get a sniff of this when it's available from his webstore.
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post #22 of 103
2/14/12 at 2:40am
Interesting I wonder if the Oud is going to be prominent or hidden under a lot of notes.
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post #23 of 103
2/14/12 at 2:50am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Hunter View Post

Interesting I wonder if the Oud is going to be prominent or hidden under a lot of notes.

I can say; oud is a little bit undertoned and covered by an aura of saffron. Dont imagine it like a "I am the oud, i am bold and loud" type of blend
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post #24 of 103
2/14/12 at 2:53am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post

Oud... saffron.. cedar? I hope it's not as predictable as it sounds.

It sounds weird isnt it? If i had not sniffed it, i would probably think the same.
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post #25 of 103
2/14/12 at 3:11am
One more Oud scent in the Market! yupieeee!!!!!
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post #26 of 103
2/14/12 at 5:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonoanimoes View Post

One more Oud scent in the Market! yupieeee!!!!!

that was my exact thought . . . . bowing to the perceived pressure of NOT having an oud to offer
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post #27 of 103
2/14/12 at 6:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoGent View Post

that was my exact thought . . . . bowing to the perceived pressure of NOT having an oud to offer

It is becoming a more common note, which isn't a bad thing, unless some prize it solely for the fact that it is uncommon. To fault it's use as over saturation would not be much different than to fault a company for having their own version of say a vetiver, leather, or any other note that we now consider common (or even staple).

Given that there are quite a few types of oud, and different ways to mix the note (Fahrenheit Absolute, M7, Montales, Amouages, Mona Di Orio's Oud, etc for a few diverse examples) I'm looking forward to MFK's interpretation, and to see what role he gives it to play.
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post #28 of 103
2/14/12 at 6:23am
Hmmmm....veeeeerrrrrrry interesting
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post #29 of 103
2/14/12 at 10:35am
I should like this a lot. Saffron yum.
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post #30 of 103
2/14/12 at 10:56am
So, he comes in late to the oud game with an oud/saffron concoction... damn. This stuff needs to be oustanding!
The word transparent terrifies me though...
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post #31 of 103
2/14/12 at 4:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Partario View Post

I'm guessing Kurkdjian showed up late to the party, but is going to leave with all the chicks.

you just may be correct about that, because as light as this is the 'chicks' would have to be very close to begin with, which would sort of indicate they wanted to be there regardless.

wishingwell's assessment of mellow is absolutely correct, every note is downplayed but merge toether well - to call it 'classy' is in my opinion a little bit of a stretch but i can see how that thought could rise up & wouldn't disagree - luxury .... not really. an absolute choice over Royal Oud though without question while considering THAT is not that hard to do.
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post #32 of 103
2/14/12 at 4:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoGent View Post

you just may be correct about that, because as light as this is the 'chicks' would have to be very close to begin with, which would sort of indicate they wanted to be there regardless.

wishingwell's assessment of mellow is absolutely correct, every note is downplayed but merge toether well - to call it 'classy' is in my opinion a little bit of a stretch but i can see how that thought could rise up & wouldn't disagree - luxury .... not really. an absolute choice over Royal Oud though without question while considering THAT is not that hard to do.

Is the saffron as much of a key player as say in Idole? And would you call it a prominent oud fragrance, or is it more of a subdued oud?
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post #33 of 103
2/14/12 at 4:53pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Partario View Post

Is the saffron as much of a key player as say in Idole? And would you call it a prominent oud fragrance, or is it more of a subdued oud?

Appreciate SoGent's review and wanna reply for your question; saffron is a key player for the top and heart. it just soothes the arabic oud and forces it to be a french than arabic. It is not an oud fragrance, it is just a vision of a French nose trying to understand agarwood...

That's my first opinion though, it might change upon next sniffs...
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post #34 of 103
2/14/12 at 5:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoGent View Post

renfrew ?

If only MFK fragrances were carried in Holt Renfrew in Toronto.
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post #35 of 103
2/14/12 at 6:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by argus wishingwell View Post

Appreciate SoGent's review and wanna reply for your question; saffron is a key player for the top and heart. it just soothes the arabic oud and forces it to be a french than arabic. It is not an oud fragrance, it is just a vision of a French nose trying to understand agarwood...

That's my first opinion though, it might change upon next sniffs...

i'm thinking the same argus w, it just may well 'bloom' in future tests & i think you've summed it up for me when you say it may be an exploration of oud. i have to add though, the deep drydown at 5 - 6 hours is really good which just may be more nuzzle worthy.
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post #36 of 103
2/14/12 at 7:22pm
That sounds pretty good actually. Hopefully it's on his site soon, as I have no idea where this could be located for testing where I live.
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post #37 of 103
2/14/12 at 7:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Partario View Post

That sounds pretty good actually. Hopefully it's on his site soon, as I have no idea where this could be located for testing where I live.

if you don't locate some in the next week or so pm me your address . . . . you can have the + - 2 mL that'll be left.
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post #38 of 103
2/15/12 at 1:33pm
Does anyone know what the pricing will be for this one yet?
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post #39 of 103
2/15/12 at 3:32pm
first impression,
buttload of haitian vetiver (unlisted) and saffron with musk.
no oud in sight.
nice, but no dice.
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post #40 of 103
2/15/12 at 5:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sarıpatates View Post

first impression,
buttload of haitian vetiver (unlisted) and saffron with musk.
no oud in sight.
nice, but no dice.

Alert! Alert! Alert!
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post #41 of 103
2/15/12 at 9:14pm
I know they have a tester at NM Chicago, Michigan Avenue and it smells great. I love the color of the bottle and the packaging too.
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post #42 of 103
2/16/12 at 9:40am
I haven't tried it yet but they do have a tester at the NM in Chicago and I asked about it. Here is what I was told

"It is more masculine, the size is 2.4 oz., it is EDP, the scent and bottle are rich and hot. It looks like the pricing will be $300.
We will be preselling for the launch."
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post #43 of 103
2/16/12 at 9:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmarino67 View Post

I haven't tried it yet but they do have a tester at the NM in Chicago and I asked about it. Here is what I was told

"It is more masculine, the size is 2.4 oz., it is EDP, the scent and bottle are rich and hot. It looks like the pricing will be $300.
We will be preselling for the launch."

$300? Ouch.

BTW: Did you get this from Marc, the MFK rep?
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post #44 of 103
2/16/12 at 9:47am
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivory88 View Post

$300? Ouch.

BTW: Did you get this from Marc, the MFK rep?
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post #45 of 103
2/16/12 at 4:11pm
Tested it briefly on paper at the store, well the oud must be there but I can't detect it at all after a few hours (on paper). First impression was quite positive, well blended, a bit sweet, powdery soft, warm and clean. If you're looking for something similar in vibe as Absolue pour le soir for example, or even Cologne pour le soir, well it's not dirty at all.
Can be unisex but leaning more towards feminine for me, I think it's a feminine oud comparing to Royal Oud for example (which has more oud than this by the way), or a very soft masculine (that works too lol). My quick impression on this, sorry for the people waiting for accurate notes description
Now I'm starting to wonder if they sprayed something for le matin instead.. Where's the oud?
Was about to replace some GIT but I ended up with Duro a few blocks away
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post #46 of 103
2/19/12 at 11:27pm
Sounds interesting.
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post #47 of 103
2/20/12 at 12:17am
Sounds disappointing so far.
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post #48 of 103
2/20/12 at 3:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Partario View Post

It is becoming a more common note, which isn't a bad thing, unless some prize it solely for the fact that it is uncommon. To fault it's use as over saturation would not be much different than to fault a company for having their own version of say a vetiver, leather, or any other note that we now consider common (or even staple).

Given that there are quite a few types of oud, and different ways to mix the note (Fahrenheit Absolute, M7, Montales, Amouages, Mona Di Orio's Oud, etc for a few diverse examples) I'm looking forward to MFK's interpretation, and to see what role he gives it to play.

Luckily, except us fragheads, 99% of the (non-Arabic) world population still seems to never have heard about oud. I still feel like a total weirdo (in the good, satisfying sense) when I walk on the street with my oud-heavy perfume :-)
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post #49 of 103
2/20/12 at 5:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLlewellyn View Post

Luckily, except us fragheads, 99% of the (non-Arabic) world population still seems to never have heard about oud. I still feel like a total weirdo (in the good, satisfying sense) when I walk on the street with my oud-heavy perfume :-)

Perhaps, but does it really matter if we smell good? I wear pure oud oils every day and never got anything but compliments from the people who are in the 99%
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post #50 of 103
2/20/12 at 5:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Igor01 View Post

Perhaps, but does it really matter if we smell good? I wear pure oud oils every day and never got anything but compliments from the people who are in the 99%

No, my point is that even with the whole oud overkill in perfumery trends nowadays, it'll still be a long shot until everybody gets fed up with it due to smelling it everywhere.
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post #51 of 103
2/20/12 at 9:24pm
Oud still holds a fascination for me as a note. I can't wait to try the MFK one. I think I heard that Van Cleef & Arpels also has a new fragrance out - they call it Precious Oud - sample on the way.

Yesterday I wore two dots of Kyara Koutan. This was heavenly - and its not even my favorite oud oil. Any fragrance note that smells this incredible will continue to be the inspiration for more fragrances to come. After all they continue to produce new rose fragrances every year. Some are good and some are not. Why should they stop making oud inspired perfumes?
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post #52 of 103
2/21/12 at 12:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzlepuff View Post

Any fragrance note that smells this incredible will continue to be the inspiration for more fragrances to come. After all they continue to produce new rose fragrances every year. Some are good and some are not. Why should they stop making oud inspired perfumes?

Exactly.
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post #53 of 103
2/21/12 at 3:01am
[yawns profusely]
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post #54 of 103
2/24/12 at 8:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by heperd View Post

I cant wait to test this.

Same here
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post #55 of 103
3/2/12 at 12:09pm
Update: release date is March 13 at Bergdorf's, NYC.

The SA said it was a secret when I inquired about the new fragrance, but I'm guessing its the oud -- unless 2 fragrances are being released. From other reading, looks like its in the "gold cap" not the zinc, which I'm speculating means more $$, and from what I gathered it might lean on the feminine side. I'm interested, but I wonder about the longevity.
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post #56 of 103
3/3/12 at 11:40pm
I read on the MFK blog that it will not be in the stores until April. I think bergdorfs was jumping the gun. It has a gold cap with a dark blue bottle. The cost will be 300 US.
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post #57 of 103
3/3/12 at 11:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by firehorse View Post

Update: release date is March 13 at Bergdorf's, NYC.

The SA said it was a secret when I inquired about the new fragrance, but I'm guessing its the oud -- unless 2 fragrances are being released. From other reading, looks like its in the "gold cap" not the zinc, which I'm speculating means more $$, and from what I gathered it might lean on the feminine side. I'm interested, but I wonder about the longevity.

it lasts all day
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post #58 of 103
3/4/12 at 7:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trebor View Post

[yawns profusely]

I hear ya loud and clear. The only thing that even makes this remotely interesting is the nose. My hope is it's in the same league as Absolue pou le soir. If it's like his other watered down crap, I'm not intertested.
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post #59 of 103
3/4/12 at 7:07am
I know this will be phenomenal. It's almost like this is the next flagship after AplS

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post #60 of 103
3/4/12 at 9:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by markymarc View Post

it lasts all day

thanks good to know. I'm intrigued to try this.
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