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Synthetic Notes

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I was asked recently to provide thoughts on some aroma-chemicals, samples of which had been given out at an event. I wasn’t familiar with all of them but this is what I provided:

Ozonil - aka waxy nitrile - this isn't a material I use but I gather it's very powerful so you want a 1% dilution and it lasts for ages too. Concentrated it has a reputation for smelling rather unpleasant but you should get to an orangy, sea-breeze scent if you dilute far enough.

Cyclogalbanat - this is a galbanum replacer - again not one I routinely use - I normally use IFFs Galbanum Coeur but I believe this is similar. 10% dilution.

Timberol - this is also known as Norlimanol and one of my favourite synthetics. Chandler Burr described it as 'the scent of dryness', very strong, very persistent dry woody scent. I use mine at a 10% dilution, but you might want to start with less - 5% or even 2% as it is quite potent. One of the most useful woody base notes because it's so clean.

Florazon - this is another one I use regularly, though I know it as Floralozone which is more descriptive. I keep it at 10% and use in moderation in many florals and marine accords. It is beneficial in tiny amounts in almost anything as a brightener but it's easy to overdo it: one more drop and suddenly your perfume smells like varnish. Neat it smells dreadful.

Claritone - a clary sage replacer that I'm not familiar with - I'll be interested to learn more.

Vertacetal coeur - also called Floropal this is a citrusy floral mainly used in functional products - again not one that I use.

Melonal - also called melon aldehyde and something I've been wanting to try for a while - very powerful so best diluted to 1% or less it's also pretty persistent. More used in flavours than fragrances but the odour is very fresh and clean: I'm using cucumber aldehyde (trans-2-cis-6-nonadienal), Calone and Ultrazur at the moment but this one is meant to be equally good for fresh-air type notes and better for melon ones. If it is as strong as the nonadienal you'll need an even greater dilution or it will overwhelm everything else. It's a mix of three related chemicals rather than a single molecule.

I thought these might be of interest to others and if there are some further impressions of these same materials I thought I might collate them and either add them to or create threads in the Single Note Exploration forum for them.
post #2 of 8
I think adding them to the single note exploration forum would be a great idea....it appears to be dominated by essential oils at present...
post #3 of 8
I was the one who asked Chris to comment on these molecules, which I received from Symrise. Here's my own experience:

Cyclogalbanat: At 10% I cannot truly make out anything much. Certainly not what is printed on the Symrise product page "very strong green-herbal, reminiscent of galbanum, with fruity-green notes of fresh pineapple and cool dry-spicy nuances". My wife called it "scented dust". After a day, I *do* pick up a lovely freshness, but it's very faint. I wonder if I'm anosmic to this, or if I'm missing something.

Timberol: 2% Very buzzy and I get the sense of a "dry male underarm". I find this one very intense and a bit scary. It's so tenacious. I can smell it days later on the smell strip.

Florazon: I made mine 5% for fear of overdosing. I find it very fresh and ozonic. Not much floral comes through for me. It lasts for days though, continuing a nice freshness.

Claritone: curious. I started at 1% but then boosted it to 5%. Very bright to begin with, but I get sweet floral, candy, lily, rich, slightly waxy, bright, shimmering, kitchen cleaner and slightly cloying. The floral sweetness goes pretty fast and I'm left with a grapefruit and woody freshness.

Melonal: 1%. Fresh air, chemical sharpness like ball point pen ink, melon, canatelope but not really, cleanliness, slight nose buzz. My wife likes it. I am not overwhelmed by it.

Vertacetal coeur: Sharp, grapefruit, aromatic cedar, 2 day old woman's underarm, earthy, pungent. 10% might be too strong. "a bit like toilets" says my daughter. After a few hours I get this odd sense of the smell on someone's breath who's been eating green bananas and this seems to last for days.

Ozonil: 1% Fresh linen, waxy, pressed shirts, very faint, slight citrus.
post #4 of 8
I LOVE Timberol/Norlimbanol. It's like the scent of a wood fire without the smoke. I used to hate Cashmeran, smelled like mildew, but it plays very nicely with some other players and then smells fantastic. Auratouch is a nice white musk base. Of course there are the ubiquitous Iso E Super and Ambroxan, have to mention those! Paradisamide I'm getting used to- nice tropical fruit note and lasts forever, but can really overpower everything else in the composition....
post #5 of 8
NORLIMBANOL, well I wouldn't suggest more than 1% dilution. Frighteningly powerful, I still have to find any real use for it.
If erebus had a smell, this is it!
post #6 of 8
I would be interested in hearing anyone's take on Bois Ambrene Forte and Z+E Phytol. I can't smell a thing with either of these and fear I may be anosmic to them. Any info would be appreciated.
post #7 of 8
Does anyone know where to buy small samples of synthetics to experiment with?
post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 
Perfumers Apprentice sell the smallest quantities available anywhere I know (from 4ml). If you are in Europe then Hekserij is also worth looking at (from 10ml).
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