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Modern Habanita de Molinard—worth it?

post #1 of 16
2/15/12 at 11:38am
Thread Starter 
Having been pummelled at ebay and ultimately saved from myself, perhaps, by not one but two of those 20K+ ebayers-at-the-moon in the last seconds, I thought I'd ask: is there any merit to new Habanita? As I explore fragrance, I'm finding I am a leather and smoke girl. So, let me expand that: what modern (non-vintage) leather and smoke do you recommend? What the hell, what vintage frags, should I be so lucky?
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post #2 of 16
2/15/12 at 2:25pm
Current stuff is awesome. Never smelled the vintage.

For the leather and smoke, i recommend you Leather Oud by Dior Privee.
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post #3 of 16
2/15/12 at 2:40pm
I like the current one too. Also never sniffed the vintage. I wouldn't describe Habanita as smoky or leathery, though ... powdery oriental, maybe? I'm not good at taxonomy, but it kind of reminds me of L'Heure Bleue. I may be alone in that. Anyway, you can get Habanita for about $25, so it's a pretty low risk blind buy.

Le Labo Patchouli 24 is smoky-leathery, but very dry. I also just tested vintage Cabochard parfum. I don't know if the current one is similar, but it starts out dense and floral, but then settles down into a nice elegant leather. You can get vintage minis at a reasonable price on eBay, too.
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post #4 of 16
2/15/12 at 3:08pm
Rubegon, I agree that Habanita is powdery/oriental, I think it has heliotrope. I can see it in the same family as L'Heure Bleue. Apparently Habanita was originally used to scent tobacco, so that is the smoke connection, but I don't find it *smoky* or leathery either.

Shalimar is smoky. I have Shalimar in eau de cologne and it is quite smoky. I'm not knowledgeable about leather fragrances. I like soft leather, as in Bottega Veneta, and Rochas Jolie Madame, but the big guns leathers have been a turn off for me in the past.
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post #5 of 16
2/15/12 at 3:14pm
The much touted Eau de Parfum is relaunched in a brand new Lalique bottle. Beautiful and STRONG.

Check the pictures here.
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post #6 of 16
2/15/12 at 3:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post

Rubegon, I agree that Habanita is powdery/oriental, I think it has heliotrope. I can see it in the same family as L'Heure Bleue. Apparently Habanita was originally used to scent tobacco, so that is the smoke connection, but I don't find it *smoky* or leathery either.

Thanks, lilybelle! I'm noob, still learning how to use my nose. When a 5 star veteran agrees with me, I feel like a schoolboy that got the right answer in class.
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post #7 of 16
2/15/12 at 3:20pm
Well, I'm no expert but I know leather when I smell it.
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post #8 of 16
2/15/12 at 3:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Le critique de parfum View Post

The much touted Eau de Parfum is relaunched in a brand new Lalique bottle. Beautiful and STRONG.

Check the pictures here.

Nice!
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post #9 of 16
2/15/12 at 5:59pm
You'll get your moneys worth, 5 times over. Habanita is simply gorgeous, baby powder, sweet spice, tobacco and leather with hints of green.
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post #10 of 16
2/15/12 at 6:22pm
I have both vintage and modern H. The vintage has more tobacco leaf in the top- the modern has more vanilla in the base. BOTH are divine and a great bang for the buck. But no smoke in either per se. I agree it's an oriental.

Other suggestions: Luciano Soprani Strass (thank you Hillaire!!) & previously mentioned Cabochard,
?? Visa or Baghari by Piguet
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post #11 of 16
2/15/12 at 7:11pm
Thread Starter 
I did manage to score some vintage Miss Balmain EDT100 ml on ebaby for less than an arm and a leg. I find Miss B to have a true fond du ashtray vibe which I just love. Also civet, leather—maybe. I had a mini of it and just loved it enough to want more. Thanks for the suggestions. Since modern Habanita can me had for a song, I think I'll get some. I love heliotrope. I'm not averse to masculines, either, if anyone has further ideas.
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post #12 of 16
2/15/12 at 10:24pm
jujy, with regard to Habanita... I have heard that Habanita was reformulated very recently and it was considered a 'bad' one. Now I see plenty of obviously 'old' EdT bottles (which has only a golden cap but no gold on the bottle) online, but also 'new' ones with additonal gold on the top part of the bottle. The EdT is very powdery, but probably the best cheapo available in general. Habanita was originally formulated as an extrait. I have smelled vintage extrait and I find the 'current' extrait to be true to the original. My extrait is in the bulb atomizer which was sold as 1849 Molinard re-edition a few years ago. It seems to be disappearing now. The extrait is much less powder, 'harsher' = more contrast with a clear leather note and an overall 'greener vibe' (galbanum?). What I am trying to say is that the extrait is fantastic and true to the original IMO.
Other leathers? Well, my holy grail is Tabac Blond Extrait. Spraying it brings the leather to the fore.
Masculine leathers? Knize Ten?
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post #13 of 16
2/15/12 at 10:29pm
I have never smelled the vintage, but I adore the new Habanita EDT.

It's marvelously complex, elegant, with great sillage and longevity.

You can buy it for a song at discounters, and the bottle is lovely.

Other leathers? Tabac Blond, Tuscan Leather, Cuir Ottoman, Cuir de Lancome, Aramis, Azuree, Jolie Madame, Bandit, for a strong leather note; Habit Rouge, Derby, Shalimar for more subtle and complex. Oh, my, and that just for starters!
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post #14 of 16
2/15/12 at 11:09pm
The pure perfume has SAVAGE sillage. I like
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post #15 of 16
2/16/12 at 12:13am
Agree with the others, modern Habanita EDT is wonderful.

Hard-core leather scents: Mona di Orio Cuir, SMN Peau d'Espagne, Knize Ten
A tad softer takes on leather: Chanel Cuir de Russie, SL Cuir Maresque
Soft leather: KM Cuir Cordoba, Kelly Caleche, Daim Blond, Bottega Veneta (I think you're rather looking for the other two types listed above).

Smoke: Shalimar indeed (if you enjoy vanilla and animalic facets), SL Fumerie Turque, Breath of God (burnt)
Cigarette smoke: Miss Balmain, ELdO Jasmin et Cigarettes
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post #16 of 16
2/16/12 at 12:40am
Habanita was reformulated back in 1984 and again more recently. I only have the 1984 style version though bought in the 1990s. The edt is far more powder than the extract which I own a dab version bottle again from the 90s, the latter smoother and more leather.
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