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New Frederic Malle - rumored to be a lily of the valley fragrance

post #1 of 42
2/21/12 at 9:16am
Thread Starter 
Did anyone read the post on Perfume Shrine about this?

'...Their new super secretive launch according to info I leaned is concerning a popular spring fragrance, the lily of the valley or muguet, currently developed under a code-name...

...Now that Diorissimo is almost ruined due to libertarian (and industry-compliant necessary we learn) reformulations and the most convincing lily of the valley substitute ingredient, hydroxycitronellal, is heavily restricted (lily of the valley can't be effectively extracted, read our article for more substitute lily of the valley/muguet aromachemicals), the challenge is great and fascinating to watch unfold. The new F.Malle fragrance with lily of the valley will roll in stores in March 2012. Will Mugghetone (the name will change) convince us on the existence of gods?

May we remind you that there is a lily of the valley fragrance in Les Fleurs du Malle home collection, 1er Mai (May 1st when lily of the valley posies are traditionally offered in France in celebration of the day) composed by Dominique Ropion...'

I love Diorissimo, the vintage extrait has a nice bite to it. Interested to see what perfumer will be creating this one and what direction it will be taking.
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post #2 of 42
2/21/12 at 9:42am
An exciting prospect. Also, it seems green florals are making a come-back... I'm thinking of Tauer, DSH, some others.
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post #3 of 42
2/21/12 at 10:00am
Damn Malle is easily one of my favorite lines, so I'm always thrilled about a new one, but Lily is like the one note in fragrances I really can't stand for some reason, makes me feel nauseous.
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post #4 of 42
2/21/12 at 10:05am
After Une Fleur de Cassie & Carnal Flower anything could happen. Malle and Ropion are just about untouchable when it comes to taking on florals in an unapologetic classical manner. It is exciting news, hope the rumour / insider tip is on the money.
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post #5 of 42
2/21/12 at 10:49am
Good post mr.reasonable. Very enlightening.
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post #6 of 42
2/21/12 at 10:55am
Finally something to look forward to trying!
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post #7 of 42
2/21/12 at 11:04am
Thanks for the note. I love vintage Diorissimo parfum too, and there's nothing remotely close to it - perhaps the restrictions are really unsurmountable. But who knows, we shall smell, although my hopes aren't high, even with the Malle name on it.

cacio
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post #8 of 42
2/21/12 at 11:18am
Sounds interesting.
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post #9 of 42
2/21/12 at 11:26am
Thanks for the heads up, Mike. Yay for muguet!
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post #10 of 42
2/21/12 at 1:46pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by philmcphe View Post

Damn Malle is easily one of my favorite lines, so I'm always thrilled about a new one, but Lily is like the one note in fragrances I really can't stand for some reason, makes me feel nauseous.

This new one is lily-of-the-valley, not lily. Different smell.

I, too, do not like lily (well except for Anais Anais) but lily-of-the-valley I do like.
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post #11 of 42
2/21/12 at 1:56pm
Looking forward to this one...... though, Mr. Malle - please can I have a gardenia scent ????? ! Pleassssseee!
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post #12 of 42
2/21/12 at 1:59pm
Hmm... I wonder how it measures up to Lys Méditerranée...
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post #13 of 42
2/21/12 at 2:04pm
I'm very curious to smell Mugghetone (in italian it sounds really funny...why they want to change it?). Lilly of the valley is usually a hit-or-miss for me. The only two muguet prominent fragrances that I LOVED so far are vintage Diorissimo and Carrillon Pour Un Ange.
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post #14 of 42
2/21/12 at 2:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post

Looking forward to this one...... though, Mr. Malle - please can I have a gardenia scent ????? ! Pleassssseee!

+ 1,000,000!
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post #15 of 42
2/21/12 at 2:07pm
I love the 1er Mai candle, so I have high hopes for this fragrance.
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post #16 of 42
2/21/12 at 2:32pm
This one sounds interesting. I'll definitely try it.
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post #17 of 42
2/21/12 at 3:06pm
As long as they can put a modern twist into it , LOTV can smell very " old lady " to me
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post #18 of 42
2/21/12 at 3:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

This new one is lily-of-the-valley, not lily. Different smell.

I, too, do not like lily (well except for Anais Anais) but lily-of-the-valley I do like.

Oh really? I did not realize there was such a difference. So this shouldn't smell like Lys Mediterranee? (which ironically is exactly the kind of lily I can't stand)
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post #19 of 42
2/22/12 at 1:11pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by philmcphe View Post

Oh really? I did not realize there was such a difference. So this shouldn't smell like Lys Mediterranee? (which ironically is exactly the kind of lily I can't stand)

No.

You can read a great article on the differences between lily and lily-of-the-valley on Perfume Shrine here:http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/20...-lilypart.html

I'd love to smell a real lily-of-the-valley overdose, like Geranium Pour Monsieur but with lily-of-the-valley. The only other tenacious muguet scent I've ever encountered is vintage Muguet de Bois by Coty which is much different than the current juice.
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post #20 of 42
2/22/12 at 1:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by philmcphe View Post

Oh really? I did not realize there was such a difference. So this shouldn't smell like Lys Mediterranee? (which ironically is exactly the kind of lily I can't stand)

Let's not forget that Lys Méditerranée consists of three different species of lily: ginger lily, lily of the valley and water lily. So, it would only be natural to see how this new release compares to Lys Méditerranée.
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post #21 of 42
2/22/12 at 2:14pm
Malle's PR confirmed to me that this news is 100% fake.
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post #22 of 42
2/22/12 at 2:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Le critique de parfum View Post

Malle's PR confirmed to me that this news is 100% fake.

intetresting
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post #23 of 42
2/22/12 at 2:31pm
... though there will be a new scent this year
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post #24 of 42
2/22/12 at 2:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Le critique de parfum View Post

Malle's PR confirmed to me that this news is 100% fake.

One has to wonder.
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post #25 of 42
4/15/12 at 8:07am
As this is now April and the launch was said to be March....... I guess there really won't be a lily if a valley scent by Frederic Malle ?
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post #26 of 42
10/30/12 at 10:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post

Looking forward to this one...... though, Mr. Malle - please can I have a gardenia scent ????? ! Pleassssseee!

+1!
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post #27 of 42
10/30/12 at 11:29am
The current Diorissimo is still a striking and very persuasive LOTV to my nose, with a lovely subtext of breezy lilac. It remains, for me, the muguet standard bearer. I would love for Malle, or anyone else, to challenge Diorissimo’s preeminence in the accord, but I’m not losing any sleep over it...
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post #28 of 42
10/30/12 at 11:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post

Looking forward to this one...... though, Mr. Malle - please can I have a gardenia scent ????? ! Pleassssseee!

+ another 1! And please can you get Monsieur Ropion to do it??
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post #29 of 42
10/30/12 at 12:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by teardrop View Post

+ another 1! And please can you get Monsieur Ropion to do it??

Oh yes, Mr Ropion is the dream nose for this in my world too! This would be a scent I would actually consider to blind buy - and I NEVER do that
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post #30 of 42
10/30/12 at 9:08pm
I talked to him last night and he did say that there will be a release around Spring that he has been working on with Ropion and without going into details he said it would probably do quite well 'here' (being Hong Kong), which I take to mean a lighter scent, so there ya go. He tends to play it pretty close to the chest.

He also mentioned his marketing people were sort of pushing to have it for Christmas but he said he and Ropion weren't happy with it yet and laughed - definitely a a page out of the Douglas Adams book re. 'deadlines'. He's a funny guy - sounds like he and D. Ropion have a couple of others 'on the go' which is very good news.

Also finally got one of the black travel atomiser containers as a goodie bag gift - been wanting one for years!
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post #31 of 42
10/30/12 at 9:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

He's a funny guy - sounds like he and D. Ropion have a couple of others 'on the go' which is very good news.

Also finally got one of the black travel atomiser containers as a goodie bag gift - been wanting one for years!

That is excellent news. Ropion is one of my favorite living perfumers, if not my favorite. Good to hear there are perhaps a couple more Ropion/Frederic Malle scents in store for us!

Also, what travel atomizer are you referring to, do you have any pics? The only ones I see online are Pierre Hardy atomizers on the FM website... for $285...
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post #32 of 42
10/30/12 at 11:24pm
Here's some pics from the evening, hobbes22.



It's a pretty hefty solid screw top metal tube and comes in a heavy black suede envelope. I believe there is also a silver one in the line. These were around a while before the new ones from Pierre Hardy.






The recent 'mini collection samplers' were also on display. It wasn't a new product launch per se, just a drop in to say 'hallo' cocktail party at the new Joyce Beauty Boutique in Pacific Place. It was great chatting with him again, we met a couple of years ago when he launched the Candle Collection. He mentioned two potential releases and one that's 'on the shelf' for now that he and Ropion may come back to - very encouraging news, indeed!

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post #33 of 42
10/30/12 at 11:42pm
Oooh, I want a sampler! Thanks for the pics!

M. Malle, please no gardenia scents! Please! Lol. Do a jasmine one, much better! Oh and an amber, I want an amber! It's fall/winter, time for an amber!
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post #34 of 42
10/31/12 at 12:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalli View Post

Oooh, I want a sampler! Thanks for the pics!

M. Malle, please no gardenia scents! Please! Lol. Do a jasmine one, much better! Oh and an amber, I want an amber! It's fall/winter, time for an amber!

A jasmine scent would be great! I won't get my hopes up though, whether for a gardenia or a jasmine scent.
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post #35 of 42
10/31/12 at 12:28am
mr. reasonable, thanks for the pics! I'm jealous, that atomizer looks terrific. Very simple and beautiful.

I'm very curious what F. Malle has in store next. I guess we'll have to wait and see...
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post #36 of 42
10/31/12 at 12:45am
Very nice mr.reasonable.

Did you get a chance to ask him if he plans on reformulating anything?

Thats not an adverse scenario from a vendor point of view. It means a sudden influx of cash from customers stocking up on the original formulation.
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post #37 of 42
10/31/12 at 1:03am
Hi hedonist

No but I did also speak with Valerio Polimento, who looks after European distribution from EDP Paris office and he mentioned that with the candles they were not happy with a couple and 'reformulated' - I think this was more with regard to the wax / burn quality. He did mention they had reformulated one perfume to improve it . . . don't remember which one but I'll buy that because (a) he didn't strike me as a bullshitter and (b) I do recall them upping the concentrations of some several years ago.

Malle obviously had to conform with IFRA (we had this discussion a couple of years ago) but given the way he works to his own schedule I imagine any changes would only be due to improving things or being stuck with difficulty in sourcing ingredients. I bought a new L'Eau d'Hiver recently - worried about restrictions on heliotrope - and didn't notice any difference from my 2009 bottle. I'm sleeping pretty easy
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post #38 of 42
10/31/12 at 1:33am
Reformulation has happened. I had a new (small) bottle of Une Fleur de Cassie and am now in an old (big) bottle of it. I immediately detected it (the older is dirtier, more animalic and less clean in the base, also because the cassie seems to last longer into the base) and also found a reference online. Some people say Carnal Flower has been reformulated, but I can't comment on this.
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post #39 of 42
10/31/12 at 1:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

Hi hedonist

No but I did also speak with Valerio Polimento, who looks after European distribution from EDP Paris office and he mentioned that with the candles they were not happy with a couple and 'reformulated' - I think this was more with regard to the wax / burn quality. He did mention they had reformulated one perfume to improve it . . . don't remember which one but I'll buy that because (a) he didn't strike me as a bullshitter and (b) I do recall them upping the concentrations of some several years ago.

Malle obviously had to conform with IFRA (we had this discussion a couple of years ago) but given the way he works to his own schedule I imagine any changes would only be due to improving things or being stuck with difficulty in sourcing ingredients. I bought a new L'Eau d'Hiver recently - worried about restrictions on heliotrope - and didn't notice any difference from my 2009 bottle. I'm sleeping pretty easy

Well thats a good thing then.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larimar View Post

Reformulation has happened. I had a new (small) bottle of Une Fleur de Cassie and am now in an old (big) bottle of it. I immediately detected it (the older is dirtier, more animalic and less clean in the base, also because the cassie seems to last longer into the base) and also found a reference online. Some people say Carnal Flower has been reformulated, but I can't comment on this.

Larimar is correct in that sense too.
I recently picked up a bottle of Vetiver Extraordinaire and I find it different to my bottle which I bought in April of 2011.
The older bottle was rootier.

I wanted to do a closer side by side and a proper wearing before saying anything.

Regarding CF. My wife also bought a bottle in April of 2012 and has almost finished it and also got one in August 2012. So she'd be able to tell if it was reformulated. She loves it.
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post #40 of 42
10/31/12 at 10:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hobbes22 View Post

That is excellent news. Ropion is one of my favorite living perfumers, if not my favorite. Good to hear there are perhaps a couple more Ropion/Frederic Malle scents in store for us!

+1!
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post #41 of 42
10/31/12 at 3:07pm
Thread Starter 
Great pics and information mr. reasonable!

When we were at Barney's, the SA had planned for the Malle rep to be there, but she cancelled at the last minute and of course I was going to ask them about the rumoured lily of the valley then but didn't get a chance.

I don't think they'll screw with Carnal Flower, it's their biggest seller

Although, as I typed that above, I realized how silly that sounded...of course they could, stranger things have happened in other houses!!
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post #42 of 42
11/1/12 at 6:36pm
A long time lover of Carnal Flower, and so far, no drastic changes that I can smell. Une Fleur de Cassie does seem lighter and brighter, though.

I guess I ought to get En Passant before something happens to it...
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