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All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

post #1 of 59
2/28/12 at 9:15am
Thread Starter 
With renewed enthusiasm, I invite you to join us in wearing
a chypre fragrance on Saturday, March 3.
Cacio has kindly sent me some Jacomo Silences to sample, and I'll be exploring that.

* * *

For newcomers, here's the lowdown on this monthly online event:
Every member, any gender, novice or veteran sniffer, is invited to apply a fragrance related to the theme of the month (listed below) and share your thoughts on the first Saturday of the month. This isn't a mandatory assignment; it's just for fun. Because not everyone logs in on weekends, you're encouraged to continue to add comments within this themed thread on subsequent days. If you don't join us for this month's discussion, please look ahead at the tentative lineup and join in at a later date.
JANUARY ~ Oriental
 (warmth, flowers, spices, woods & vanilla)
FEBRUARY ~ Animalic
(civet-, castoreum-, leather-, or musk-influenced scents)
MARCH ~ Chypre
 (used to be defined by oakmoss presence, but ...?)
APRIL ~ Floral
 (single solifore or full bouquet of flowers)
MAY~ Fruity
 (single sweet fruits or a bowl of fruity-florals)
JUNE ~ Citrus
 (hesperidic: bergamot, lemon, orange, grapefruit, tangerine, etc.)
JULY ~ Green
 (fresh leaves & grasses)
AUGUST ~ Fresh or aquatic
 (cool, dewy notes and seaside scents)
SEPTEMBER ~ Opposite-Gender Fragrance
OCTOBER ~ Ambery
 (dark, light or blond amber as feature note)
NOVEMBER ~ Spicy
 (warm notes associated with cooking)
DECEMBER ~ Gourmand
 (fragrances with a foody note, but not usually fruity--save for May)
Looking for suggestions?
See previous SnS discussions:
Oriental Jan. 2007, Jan. 2008, Jan. 2009, Jan. 2010, Jan. 2011, Jan. 2012
Animalic Feb. 2007, Feb. 2008, Feb. 2009, Feb. 2010, Feb. 2011, Feb. 2012
Chypre March 2007, March 2008, March 2009, March 2010, March 2011
Floral April 2007, April 2008, April 2009, April 2010, April 2011
Fruity May 2007, May 2008, May 2009, May 2010, May 2011
Citrus June 2007, June 2008, June 2009, June 2010, June 2011
Green July 2008, July 2009, July 2010, July 2011
Fresh Aug. 2008, Aug. 2009, Aug. 2010, Aug. 2011
Fougere Sept. 2007
Opposite Gender Sept. 2008, Sept. 2009, Sept. 2010, Sept. 2011
Ambery Oct. 2007, Oct. 2008, Oct. 2009, Oct. 2010, Oct. 2011
Spicy Nov. 2007, Nov. 2008, Nov. 2009, Nov. 2010, Nov. 2011
Gourmand Dec. 2007, Dec. 2008, Dec. 2009, Dec. 2010, Dec. 2011
For the months of July and August 2007, regular BN was offline and supporters had access to an abbreviated site. We discussed aquatics and greens, but those posts are no longer accessible.
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post #2 of 59
2/28/12 at 9:32am
Sounds great, love this category so will definitely participate but probably comment late (on Monday), very nice activity and sorry that I have missed the ones this year as I really loved them as well but better late than never))
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post #3 of 59
2/28/12 at 12:05pm
Here we go. Lots of chypre lovers on Basenotes.
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post #4 of 59
2/28/12 at 12:12pm
Oh, my, which chypre should I choose?
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post #5 of 59
2/28/12 at 1:50pm
Oh jeez...this one's going to be hard to pick just one.
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post #6 of 59
2/28/12 at 1:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Oh jeez...this one's going to be hard to pick just one.

Well, no one says you have to limit yourself! Maybe there's a good reason that Quarry hosts these over the weekend!

I've narrowed mine down to five, lol!
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post #7 of 59
2/28/12 at 6:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evangeline View Post

I've narrowed mine down to five, lol!

That sounds about right -- same here! Love those chypres!
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post #8 of 59
2/29/12 at 12:39pm
Much excitement in the Alityke household for this one!
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post #9 of 59
2/29/12 at 1:20pm
I can't wait! I happen to have a new bottle of vintage Givenchy III that is superb. That may be just the one!
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post #10 of 59
2/29/12 at 2:28pm
Ooooo Chypre Saturday ! Yes !
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post #11 of 59
2/29/12 at 2:46pm
Well l think this Saturday might be a momentous day for me. l'm not generally a chypre gal, but l have a sample of Mitsouko (modern extrait), kindly sent to me by the lovely Mimi (thanks darlin'!), &.... l have never even sniffed Mitsouko before. No, really!
So l guess it's time, isn't it?

lt will have to be during the day as l'll be out with the bf in the evening; l won't risk wearing a new perfume around him without trying it first, but l'll be here with my impressions when l get the chance. l'm quite excited!
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post #12 of 59
2/29/12 at 7:42pm
Glad I found this! I've been reading Basenotes for a while and recently joined. At first when I started with fragrances last year I thought I would love chypres, but wasn't sure until just a few weeks ago. This week has been chypre week exclusively, by Saturday I should be getting ready to try my vintage Givenchy III. Or a recent purchase of Aromatic Elixir. Or Weil Antilope. All of which seem a bit daunting because they are so strong and green!
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post #13 of 59
2/29/12 at 8:34pm
Yay, I say !!!

I might go with the effervescent, irisy, modern-day-chypre Chanel 31, rue Cambon. Or maybe with the soft, soapy, 70's-drug-store-chypre Prince Matchabelli Cache. Or it could be the sophisticated. confident, and sexy chypre, Paloma Picasso. Hold on now, I forgot about the classically, understated and downright regal chypre, Ralph Lauren Safari. And then there's the elegant, ultra-modern floral-chypre, Bulgari Rose Essentielle. It might just have to be each of them taking a turn thoughout the day!
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post #14 of 59
3/1/12 at 4:36am
Mikie, do my favorite on you, a semi-chypre, a spring scent d'Amour from Guerlain. It sits well on you and Ray loves lemons, I thought.
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post #15 of 59
3/1/12 at 6:21am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rin_nd View Post

Glad I found this! I've been reading Basenotes for a while and recently joined. At first when I started with fragrances last year I thought I would love chypres, but wasn't sure until just a few weeks ago. This week has been chypre week exclusively, by Saturday I should be getting ready to try my vintage Givenchy III. Or a recent purchase of Aromatic Elixir. Or Weil Antilope. All of which seem a bit daunting because they are so strong and green!

Extra big hug and welcome to you, rin nd! Do come out and play as often as you like.
Elixir? GIII? Antilope? And you started with fragrances just last year? Zoom, zoom, zoom! Look at you.
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post #16 of 59
3/1/12 at 7:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twolf View Post

Mikie, do my favorite on you, a semi-chypre, a spring scent d'Amour from Guerlain. It sits well on you and Ray loves lemons, I thought.

Philtre d'Amour? Well, like you said, that's sort of pseudo-chypre, and if it's SnS day I want to go for the whole hog and wear a grand, dramatic, big boned chypre. If you're gonna go, go large - right?

I wish I had some Profumo by Acqua di Parma still around, I love that stuff almost as much as I love Mitsouko, which is most likely what I'll wear. And Chypre by Coty, the vintage EdP I have. And maybe some Tabac Blond extrait? Oh...you see what I mean, it's impossible to choose just one.
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post #17 of 59
3/2/12 at 2:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quarry View Post

Extra big hug and welcome to you, rin nd! Do come out and play as often as you like.
Elixir? GIII? Antilope? And you started with fragrances just last year? Zoom, zoom, zoom! Look at you.

Thanks Quarry! I bought a vintage set off Ebay, specially for the Miss Balmain, because after purchasing a recent Cabochard I realized I loved scent with a leather notes - so unusual I was blown away! Anyway I got lucky with the other chypres in that set, GIII, Ma Griffe, Antilope, Vivara and my now beloved Miss Balmain (I do like soliflores too). I came to perfumery through the back door via aromatherapy - I think most of my first blends were chypres needing a good base. It is now an obsession

Plus I think I like the mature, unisex and somewhat professional quality that those vintage chypres have, as I am a professor who also sees patients and super sweet perfumes that most young women where today are just not appropriate for me and my body chemistry.
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post #18 of 59
3/2/12 at 3:08pm
As has been noted, 'tis impossible to choose just one. I think we need at least a SnS Chypre weekend, if not a full week sometime. I have narrowed it down to.......no...will just have to see tomorrow

Glad you joined in on the fun rin-nd!! WELCOME
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post #19 of 59
3/2/12 at 3:20pm
I shall layer my Mitsouko and also fit in some time for Lyric Woman. Yes, I shall.
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post #20 of 59
3/2/12 at 3:41pm
My plan is for early GIII and later in the day Aromatic Elixir!

Today my SOTD is Dioressence (not sure if vintage or not) - started with a nice and proper chypre, then morphed into a sultry balsamic oriental. Worn for the first time. Wasn't expecting the oriental quality - sometimes too heavy for me when I am at work. Was very nice, and I felt very feminine and powerful (important since I teach a bunch of unruly mid 20s young men!).
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post #21 of 59
3/3/12 at 6:50am
Good morning SnS-ers - Happy chypre day!

I'm starting my day in Gucci No3, a disarmingly gorgeous, sleek classic floral chypre from 1985, it's possibly (and at the moment it's absolutely) my favorite chypre from that era ...and beyond. I don't know who created it, but its perfect harmony of notes include bergamot, tuberose, iris, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, narcissus, amber, patchouli, musk, oakmoss and vetiver. It's been discontinued for quite some time, but you can still find new-old-stock once in a while ...I hoard it. Y'all have a great day!


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post #22 of 59
3/3/12 at 7:20am
Wearing the end of a bottle of 1980s vintage Givenchy III. Opens with a WHOOSH of lemon peel and bergamot then in creeps the astringent green of the galbanum... Green, grassy but still sharp from the bergamot and citrus. Delicious
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post #23 of 59
3/3/12 at 8:20am
Caleche Hermes is part of the weekend plan. In spite of so many to choose from few are in my collection that I wear regularly.
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post #24 of 59
3/3/12 at 8:45am
I think chypres are my favorite in my admittedly limited experience. After reading a previous thread "Replace 70's chypres", I ordered a few samples from Posh Peasant. Hillaire, I was impressed with your knowledge of this and am leaning strongly on your recommendations! I have a vintage Dioressence and Givenchy III to try, and this morning I picked:
Le Temps d'Un Fete by Parfums de Nicolai. I guess that would translate to Party Time, or maybe the more innuendo filled Ball Time.

My perfume describing skills are woefully inadequate. I do get the green grassy, new flower growth smell, mixed with soft florals. There is a sweetness to the opening, but just a faint bitter mossy smell behind it to keep it interesting. I'm 2 hours into this fragrance and the whiffs I get keep making me stop and deeply inhale my wrist. While it evokes spring time, I could see wearing it year round.
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post #25 of 59
3/3/12 at 8:50am
The heart of the GIII is opening now. This is crisp as a starched white shirt. Still grassy and green but theflorals are starting. I get some white flowers, possibly jasmine but a jasmine bud not an open flower, lily of the valley early in the morning whilst dewy and behind those the freshness of hyacinth and a touch of clove so dianthus must be in there too.

The dry down is still to come
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post #26 of 59
3/3/12 at 9:14am
It does not get really any better than Sous le Vent in my books. The aromatic- citric opening with the Guerlain herbal bouquet (emphasis on tarragon, I think) is perfumery perfection - masterfully executed, unique and outstanding! The opening accord does remind me of juicy limes with zest and I am not the first to mention as drseid has done it before in his review for Sous le Vent. Sous le Vent lifts your mood, refreshes you and is 'sombre' enough to fit the genre and raise enough interest (with its chypré base notes and indolic/slightly animalic facet underneath the whole composition). Longevity is many hours, but very redux (if on skin only, which is best, however) after two hours. Nevertheless, a couple of days ago I did wake in the morning being enveloped in a Sous le Vent chypré aroma bubble. Possibly my favorite chypré, definitely my most favorite contemporary and one of my very most wanted Guerlains!
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post #27 of 59
3/3/12 at 9:58am
So today l have smelled & worn Mitsouko for the very first time!

l don't think l need to describe the notes here, but l will attempt to describe my impressions. The opening was, as l expected, very "retro" in feel, with an underlying creaminess that quickly became more prominent, & sweeter. At this stage it seemed almost cloying & possibly headache-inducing to me, but l hung in there. After an hour it was softer & mossier, & although l didn't really recognise the peach note as such, l definitely got the "fuzzy peach skin" vibe l have read about. Three hours in, l got the salty oakmoss along with an almost ambery sweetness, & now seven hours after application it's faded but still traceable.

l'll be honest; l didn't expect to love Mitsouko, but l can imagine growing to like her a lot after a few more wearings. She isn't bitter & green on my skin as l have found other chypres to be, but l think it's usually the addition of galbanum that ruins a perfume for me. l went into town & back while wearing her today, & l felt very "put together" & in control, which l enjoyed.

Thanks again to Mimi for enabling me to try this one!
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post #28 of 59
3/3/12 at 10:58am
Mmmmm.... Teardrop you smell fab-u-lous! Try a little more and you will be under the spell of the playful and alluring Mitzie. She's very approachable and warm unlike some of her chypre sisters who sometimes tend to the austere and correct.

Speaking of austere the Givenchy III is now down to her very high and chiseled cheekbones. Here sneaks in the warmth of vetyver, sandalwood and myrrhe with the savory oakmoss. Whilst it isnt listed to my nose there is civet. This dry down will last the evening out and I find it irresistible
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post #29 of 59
3/3/12 at 11:01am
I’m wearing Estee Lauder Azurée for chypre sniff ‘n speak. I’ve recently discovered this classic and been enjoying soooo much. It is green, clean, warm and dry, but with enough sweetness to keep it from being too terribly austere and bitter. EL’s website doesn’t list leather as a note but there is an impression of leather in there, too, though I wouldn’t call this a leathery fragrance. I think it is lovely stuff, and you cannot beat the price. I love Estee Lauder for keeping their classics. Last night I refreshed my SotA, Aqaba, with Azurée on top, and the combination was gorgeous. So it's good for layering, too. I'll probably switch to something else this evening, but I don't know what yet. And maybe, as Knit says, I'll make it a chypre weekend.



Top Notes: Basil, Jasmine, Citrus

Middle Notes: Armoise, Vetiver, Rose

Base Notes: Patchouli, Moss, Amber
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post #30 of 59
3/3/12 at 12:03pm
I'm wearing 31 Rue Cambon for the first time today. Despite the lack of oakmoss, it really does have a chypre feel. There is something in here that at least suggests that classic chypre bitterness, even though it's not the same thing; my guess is that it's the combination of pepper and vetiver that my nose is interpreting that way. The floral heart is elegant in that trademark Chanel way, and the base, to my surprise, was somewhat ambery. Unfortunately, the longevity seems very poor.
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post #31 of 59
3/3/12 at 12:16pm
My husband(K),found a mystery parfum in his bathroom drawer. It was silver, say's only Boucheron on the bottom. There's a 'B' on the top. So he sprayed it on. It turns out to be a glorious chypre, probably more of a femme nature. If anyone knows anything about this one, I'd love to know more. I don't even know where I got it!
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post #32 of 59
3/3/12 at 1:03pm
teardrop- Congrats on your first Mitsouko wearing!

I am joining you in vintage EDC.
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post #33 of 59
3/3/12 at 2:35pm
Chypre is not always my favorite scent category. The classic chypres just do not sit well on my skin and while I respect the genre, I feel chypres are simply not for me (as a very general statement, there are always exceptions, of course!) ... but as I've said before, sniff n speak days are a great excuse to stretch a little and get out of my comfort zone. I'm wearing Jour Ensoleillé by Sonoma Scent Studio, which I believe will count as a chypre. I say believe, because sometimes I still get a little confused over what is and what isn't considered chypre ... but I digress.

Notes: Orange blossom, neroli, tuberose, jasmine, beeswax absolute, labdanum absolute , myrrh, sandalwood, ambergris, vetiver, green leaves, oakmoss absolute.

Jour Ensoleillé means "sunny day" according to the SSS website and the topnotes do provide a happy blast of sunny-ness. It becomes very floral after that with a sour-ish green note that is a little too brash for me. I have to be honest, I'm not loving the Jour Ensoleillé. It's a little too green or too sour or too something ... or maybe it's just too chypre-ish
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post #34 of 59
3/3/12 at 3:07pm
Brave Bleu, wearing a chypre when chypres are out of your comfort zone. I agree, Sniff 'n Speak gives us a good opportunity to stretch ourselves (or to reaffirm our lack of love).

My SotE is vintage Y parfum. I love this scent so much. I love the white florals, the green springtime uplift, the animalic center of this swirling kaleidescope of notes. It is the kind of fragrance that makes me wonder why I bother with anything else. But of course there is always the next thing to try.
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post #35 of 59
3/3/12 at 3:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post

My SotE is vintage Y parfum. I love this scent so much. I love the white florals, the green springtime uplift, the animalic center of this swirling kaleidescope of notes. It is the kind of fragrance that makes me wonder why I bother with anything else. But of course there is always the next thing to try.

The vintage parfum is heavenly! I wear this from time to time myself, even though it's quite feminine. It's just too good not to wear. It's my favorite feminine chypre.
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post #36 of 59
3/3/12 at 5:32pm
post shower still have a trace of Mitsouko on my arms. Added a smidge of my precious sample of Sous Le Vent to the wrists.
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post #37 of 59
3/3/12 at 6:44pm
Gosh, I love Sous le Vent. . . . Precious, indeed. I can still smell my Deneuve, which I also love.
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post #38 of 59
3/3/12 at 6:47pm
I wore Chinatown for my Body Flow class this am, and Deneuve to a baby shower this afternoon. I was going to go with Givenchy III instead of Deneuve, so I may put some of that on later tonight. Sous le Vent is so wonderful, knit!
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post #39 of 59
3/3/12 at 7:48pm
I ended up wearing Profumo because I have a sample of it, and recalled really liking this fragrance when I first smelled it. Well, this is so beautiful. Sweet, earthy, creamy, tangy, just gorgeous. Thank you Quarry for SNS, for it made me stretch and find a new love.
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post #40 of 59
3/3/12 at 8:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumquat View Post

My husband(K),found a mystery parfum in his bathroom drawer. It was silver, say's only Boucheron on the bottom. There's a 'B' on the top. So he sprayed it on. It turns out to be a glorious chypre, probably more of a femme nature. If anyone knows anything about this one, I'd love to know more. I don't even know where I got it!

http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/B...on/B-4171.html

???
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post #41 of 59
3/4/12 at 7:23am
Thanks, Lovingthealien. This could very well be the one. I have a plain silver sprayer in a purse size. It doesn't look like these bottles but must be from this series.
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post #42 of 59
3/4/12 at 7:41am
Hello everyone!

I'm in Sisley's Eau du Soir this morning. This is another chypre of great beauty and sophistication, displaying smoothly blended notes of mandarin, bergamot, rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, carnation, ylang-ylang, patchouli, violet, pepper, juniper, labdanum, oak moss and ambergris. EdS was originally released in 1970, discontinued around '89 then re-launched soon after in 1990, which is I believe when it got its gaudy sculptural cap (my mother has an older bottle - the fragrance is pretty much the same and the bottle looks similar but it doesn't have that cap.) Gaudy cap or not, I love this deeply mossy, elegant fragrance. I like their ads, too.


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post #43 of 59
3/4/12 at 8:01am
Mmm, this thread smells awesome! I'm in 31 Rue Cambon, also. The chypre that isn't. But it sure does wear like one and it is the reason that I want to marry Jacques Polge when I grow up. Unlike L'Incandescent, I get excellent longevity from this, stays on me until I wash it off. Pretty much all the Chanels do that for me though. This scent is very special to me; have worn it enough that now it has seen lots of happy times as well as some rough times with me. One of those scents I can't imagine ever being without.
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post #44 of 59
3/4/12 at 9:11am
Cannot understand why TS pans this so much in The Guide. I love it too. Yes, harsh at times, especially in the warm, but a stunning cooler weather citric chypre in all it's boney glory. A true "Grande Dame" of the genre.

Nothing sweet or rosy to detract from it's elegance

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evangeline View Post

Hello everyone!

I'm in Sisley's Eau du Soir this morning. This is another chypre of great beauty and sophistication, displaying smoothly blended notes of mandarin, bergamot, rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, carnation, ylang-ylang, patchouli, violet, pepper, juniper, labdanum, oak moss and ambergris. EdS was originally released in 1970, discontinued around '89 then re-launched soon after in 1990, which is I believe when it got its gaudy sculptural cap (my mother has an older bottle - the fragrance is pretty much the same and the bottle looks similar but it doesn't have that cap.) Gaudy cap or not, I love this deeply mossy, elegant fragrance. I like their ads, too.


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post #45 of 59
3/4/12 at 9:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post

Mmm, this thread smells awesome! I'm in 31 Rue Cambon, also. The chypre that isn't. But it sure does wear like one and it is the reason that I want to marry Jacques Polge when I grow up. Unlike L'Incandescent, I get excellent longevity from this, stays on me until I wash it off.

I'm glad to hear that. Yesterday was my first time wearing it; I have a sample without a spray, so that might account for some of the longevity issues I had. For me it was literally gone within two hours. I'll give it another try.
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post #46 of 59
3/4/12 at 9:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by L'Incandescent View Post

The vintage parfum is heavenly! I wear this from time to time myself, even though it's quite feminine. It's just too good not to wear. It's my favorite feminine chypre.

It's my favorite, too.
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post #47 of 59
3/4/12 at 10:08am
L'Incandescent, I'm not surprised to hear of poor longevity with 31RC. You aren't the first I've heard wishing it had more longevity and/or projection. My skin tends to be extra generous when it comes to longevity with most scents, esp. Chanels. Glad you got to smell it long enough to get a good impression; it really is something! Would be interested to hear if you do get more longevity upon further testing; won't be terribly shocked if you don't, though.
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post #48 of 59
3/4/12 at 10:51am
After going through my closet, I decided to go with something that is still available, so I chose
Miss Dior. It still has spunk and pizzaz, even in the current EDT form. I love the quirky, citrus/woody aspect in this scent. It has the chutspah required of the 'new' woman it was created for in the 1950's. (1947, actually)
It is still relevant today.



Created by Paul Vacher in collaboration with Jean Carles and Serge Heftler-Louiche, a fresh green mossy woods chypre parfum with top notes of galbanum and bergamot over heart notes of jasmine, rose and gardenia, on base notes of oak moss, ambergris, sandalwood and patchouli
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post #49 of 59
3/4/12 at 11:10am
I wore Mitsouko yesterday and went to see "The Artist" - a nice combination. I like the "old school" feel to it.


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post #50 of 59
3/4/12 at 11:13am
Yesterday morning I put Givenchy III on, thinking I would switch to something else after lunch. I was busy so didn't get a chance to notice much about it, so after lunch I applied it a bit more - as I tend to apply most fragrance lightly. With that heavier application I got the aldehydes pretty significantly, unfortunately not my favorite thing. Later it unfolded a bit into a more floral heart, and I think I got some rose, but it would also tend to dip to that aldehyde scent throughout. Since the weather was cold and crisp it wasn't a good fit me, not that I don't like it, but I think I will put it on the shelf and give it another try on a warm day where that crispness will feel refreshing.

Today the Aromatics Elixir - much warmer, woodier and earthy.

Thank you Quarry for such a great experience - although I am a novice this has been fun!
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post #51 of 59
3/4/12 at 11:57am
Kumquat, Miss Dior is another one of my all time favorite chypres. I suppose I have a preference for the jasmine/gardenia/white floral mix with chypre'ness. Y is fruitier, Miss Dior is slightly earthier (patch?). I love them both. I have not tried the current version of Miss Dior. I 'm glad to hear it is still nice!
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post #52 of 59
3/4/12 at 12:09pm
Don't give up on the vintage GIII. I agree she is a warmer weather fragrance. Rather austere and stand offish when the weather is cool or wet.

If you really find she isn't for you, please remember me.... I love and adore those high cheekbones and disdainfully raised eyebrows.

AE is stunning, much more warming and giving on a changeable and cool spring weekend

Quote:
Originally Posted by rin_nd View Post

Yesterday morning I put Givenchy III on, thinking I would switch to something else after lunch. I was busy so didn't get a chance to notice much about it, so after lunch I applied it a bit more - as I tend to apply most fragrance lightly. With that heavier application I got the aldehydes pretty significantly, unfortunately not my favorite thing. Later it unfolded a bit into a more floral heart, and I think I got some rose, but it would also tend to dip to that aldehyde scent throughout. Since the weather was cold and crisp it wasn't a good fit me, not that I don't like it, but I think I will put it on the shelf and give it another try on a warm day where that crispness will feel refreshing.

Today the Aromatics Elixir - much warmer, woodier and earthy.

Thank you Quarry for such a great experience - although I am a novice this has been fun!
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post #53 of 59
3/4/12 at 12:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post

Kumquat, Miss Dior is another one of my all time favorite chypres. I suppose I have a preference for the jasmine/gardenia/white floral mix with chypre'ness. Y is fruitier, Miss Dior is slightly earthier (patch?). I love them both. I have not tried the current version of Miss Dior. I 'm glad to hear it is still nice!

Yes, the bottle I have is about 3 years old. I think it was old stock. TJMax, probably. I hope the recent stuff is as good!
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post #54 of 59
3/4/12 at 2:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alityke View Post

Cannot understand why TS pans this so much in The Guide.

She was probably influenced by her husband, lol - he hates Eau du Soir, too. But you don't have to go out of your way to find "his" opinion - there are plenty of similarly-worded bad reviews right here, so it's clear that his influence goes well beyond his own household. But really, who cares? Their opinions are no more valid than yours or mine, so let's just enjoy it and be happy we don't all smell alike.

And now I'm going to cross-post what I wrote in the sotd thread again, so please pardon my laziness. I'm in Estee Lauder's Knowing for the evening, and what can I say that we all haven't been saying about the array of magnificent chypres we've been enjoying this weekend? It's gorgeous. And there's apparently pittosporum in it, so it's unique, too. Knowing was created by Jean Kerleo in 1988, and has notes of bergamot, pittosporum, rose, tuberose, plum, patchouli, iris, clove, bay laurel, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss and civet ...among others, lol. It's a big one!


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post #55 of 59
3/4/12 at 3:59pm
I put a magnifying glass to my sprayer & discovered it is an EDT pour Homme after all, plus I think since the femme one didn't come about until 2008, it probably isn't right, so this is the likely suspect. That explains why I put it in with hubby's things.
http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/B...heron-132.html

It really is quite a nice feminine chypre. I didn't like it on him though. A bit too flowery.
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post #56 of 59
3/4/12 at 7:15pm
continued the Chypre theme today in Dioressence..... yum
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post #57 of 59
3/5/12 at 9:13am
Thread Starter 
Welcome, RingER!

Rin nd, exposure to Cabochard produced my first chypre craving. Then I discovered Miss Balmain--such a powerhouse. I have to spray her on fabric and wait for the drydown, but what a beauty.

I wore Jacomo Silences on Saturday for the first time. Funny how, despite my chronologically short perspective on perfumes, this scent smells like it's more than 50 years old. It's pleasing to me because there is such a forward floral presence, and there's nothing disharmonious about it. Still, it doesn't trip my trigger so well as did the green Molinard de Molinard or JL Scherrer -- both of whom eventually wore out there welcome except for an occasional revisit for a momentary craving.

I applied vintage Mitsouko extract on Sunday. Perhaps once you've smelled the best (even though my bottle is bordering on going bad due to age), nothing else is quite as good. Also, my skin tends to make scents more bitter, so while I normally prefer green florals, once we're in chypre territory, the combo can't stay sweet enough to be appealing on me. (What's my skin's issue -- the consumption of too much pickled herring and sauerkraut?)

Wearing modern Mitsouko edp today, but spraying and smelling only the INSIDE of my arm, I'm finding more of the sweet notes my skin needs. I think there really is a difference between the skin on the inside and outside of my arm. Cleavage skin is sweeter, too.

Teardrop, Mitsouko was hardly an instant love for me. I think part of the whole fragrance journey includes spells of boredom, and Mitsy stands there waiting for us to recognize her unique entertainment.

Klute, I haven't seen the movie, but Mitsouko and "The Artist" sounds like virtual time travel.
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post #58 of 59
3/5/12 at 2:07pm
Great report Q!

I'm still in Chypre land - I enjoyed Dioressence so much yesterday, I'm back in it today. Very rare for me to repeat.
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post #59 of 59
3/7/12 at 8:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumquat View Post

Yes, the bottle I have is about 3 years old. I think it was old stock. TJMGax, probably. I hope the recent stuff is as good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by knit at nite View Post

Great report Q!

I'm still in Chypre land - I enjoyed Dioressence so much yesterday, I'm back in it today. Very rare for me to repeat.

I'm so glad you are liking this one. It has been one of my favorites since the moment I first tried it. It is such an extraordinary green scent. There is nothing quite like it.
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Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Female Fragrance Discussion › All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES