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Choosing a Signature Vetyver

post #1 of 43
3/2/12 at 11:56pm
Thread Starter 
Comments invited to suggest a path through the sea of hundreds (at least) Vetiver-centered scents on the market.

Vetiver can be Green and wet, or it can be smokey and dry. It can wax floral or turn dirty and musky. But it almost always lasts and lasts. It tends to evolve as it dries down lending dimension to an otherwise linear juice. Once dry it can develop powder, sweet or spice. It is frequently blended with woods, but is a grass/root itself.


There are famous players on the stage since the 50s (at least) but also many newcomers with modern interpretations.

Please....jump in! Share your experience in choosing your favorite.
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post #2 of 43
3/3/12 at 12:03am
One that I like a lot is Carlo Corinto Vetyver but there are so many others that I am also fond of.
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post #3 of 43
3/3/12 at 12:04am
Thread Starter 
I am looking for a signature Vetiver-centered, long-lasting, interesting but not bizarre, mild-climate scent.
I am okay with Linear, and dont care for something that projects greatly after 15 minutes.
I need longevity.
I Cannot Abide: sweet powder, Vanilla or Incense.

So what else is left to blend in as a basenote with Vetiver?
Musk comes to mind, Woods like Cedar, Smoke and moss all can be found as well. Any other thoughts?

Today I'm trying Route de Vetiver (MPG) and practicing French pronunciation of MPG--good luck yankee!

A medicinal strong opening of green-tinged nose-tingling boozy Vetyver, mingling with a metallic over-ripe berry, which is gone in a flash.

This intense burbon and berry opening backs off slightly over 10-15 minutes, bringing in an interesting, but not dominating, dry floral bouquet (Rose and Jasmine I think) which seems to soothe the Vetiver. I miss this part already, its gone within 60 minutes.

The dry-down comes after about an hour on my skin: held close, a dry scent of wide-based mild musk, moss, and warm Vetiver. Not a hint of powder or sweetness. The sharpness of the opening continues to soften.

The boldness reminds of a few others in this league, but here we substitute a musk base in lieu of the overpowering smoke in Chanel Sycomore and Sel de Vetiver by TDC and Encre Noir.

I will wait to comment on longevity (frequently a problem for me). Already at 3 hours it is fading fast....

Overall, a most intense opening vetiver, but...
A moderate and gentlemanly juice, once settled.
Considering a bottle, but I will continue the hunt for now...
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post #4 of 43
3/3/12 at 12:21am
I really love Sycomore. I think that this is a crisp bright vetiver that isn't to dry and earthy. I really like Encre Noir but I think that Sycomore is way better for daily wear.
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post #5 of 43
3/3/12 at 12:24am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hednic View Post

One that I like a lot is Carlo Corinto Vetyver but there are so many others that I am also fond of.

HAve you written any review of CCV or any other favorites?
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post #6 of 43
3/3/12 at 12:27am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJM_77 View Post

I really love Sycomore. I think that this is a crisp bright vetiver that isn't to dry and earthy. I really like Encre Noir but I think that Sycomore is way better for daily wear.

Sycomore is great in the end, but the smoke is too much up front for me to actually wear to work. Why that juice is sold as a for Women I've no idea. Its clearly a masculine scent.
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post #7 of 43
3/3/12 at 12:29am
The Tom Ford Grey Vetiver may suit. It has great longevity and no oddball notes. Not smoky either.
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post #8 of 43
3/3/12 at 12:31am
For citric fresh vetivers :

Guerlain's vetiver*
Vetiver by Dior*
the Esprit du Roi by Penhaligon's (the vetiver here is light but present)

For citric + sharp acidic note (from the grape fruit) and an underlying smoky accord try Grey Vetiver.
A little vanilla'ish - Tonka Vetiver
Straight up vetiver (Indian Ocean) - Etro Vetiver & Bourbon Vetiver by Miller Harris
With resins and sap ? Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens
Earthy and resinous - Lorenzo Vetiver
Vetiver Extraordinaire by Frederic Malle - grassy, thin, with some cinnamon & clove
Salty - Sel de Vetiver by The Different Company
Smoky vetiver with heaps of ISO E Super - Encre Noire
Smoky and incense vetiver but with less ISO Super E - Sycomore
Coriander'ish and nutty vetiver - Vetyver by Givenchy
Floral Vetiver - Vetyverio by Dyptique
Light woody peppery vetiver - Noble Vetiver by Chopard
Soapy almost non-existent vetiver - Prada Infusion de Vetiver
Route de Vetiver by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier - similar to Vetiver Bourbon by Miller Hariss but lesser intensity. Having just recently smelled it I now understand what members meant when they that the original formulation was better (more intense).
Annick Goutal - vetiver oriental - creamy sandalwood'ish vetiver
Vetyver - Mona di Orio : a sharp vetiver that feels oily. Not much projection but smells high quality.
Timbuku - L'Artisan Parfumeur : vetiver + incense + spices and some resins. A staple in my wardrobe.
I know its a lot but if you like vetiver you should really try all of the above and the few that I have not tried yet (like Fumidus by Il Profumo Roma ).
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post #9 of 43
3/3/12 at 12:33am
Thread Starter 
Re: Tom Ford GV, I hope so! I already ordered a sample earlier today. Also Givenchy Vetyver. Still waiting to try out Guerlain.
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post #10 of 43
3/3/12 at 12:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasher View Post

Re: Tom Ford GV, I hope so! I already ordered a sample earlier today. Also Givenchy Vetyver. Still waiting to try out Guerlain.

The Givenchy is another great one, dry and crisp. Longevity is not as good as the Tom Ford, however. I use an atomiser to refresh the Givenchy at midday.
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post #11 of 43
3/3/12 at 1:07am
I've tried quite a few Vetiver/ Vetyver fragrances over the past few years. I did some background reading here and elsewhere and dove in. I wear Creed Original Vetiver the most often but love Guerlain Vetiver (both current and vintage), Creed Vetiver (1948) and Floris Vetiver.

Martin
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post #12 of 43
3/3/12 at 2:53am
Vetiver Extraordinaire by Frederic Malle is my current favorite. It opens up with some lime and nutmeg then you get a brilliant vetiver for hours until it dries down in a nice soapy smell. I see it as a modern interpretation of the marvelous Guerlain Vetiver and rank it as one of my best allround scents together with GIT and Riverside Drive. It is that good.
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post #13 of 43
3/3/12 at 3:14am
I like:

Grey Vetiver
Original Vetiver
Vetiver Vert
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post #14 of 43
3/3/12 at 3:34am
Wonderfully spicy vetiver: Red Vetyver by Montale. Still my favourite because of its prickling.
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post #15 of 43
3/3/12 at 4:41am
While I don't care much for it personally, I could easily see Tom Ford's Grey Vetiver working as a daily wear scent as it is so fresh, bland an unobtrusive.

My own choice for a daily wear vetiver is Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver by Mona di Orio. It is a beautiful composition of vetiver and natural Virginia cedar. I love it and find it just the right balance of wearability, refinement and distinctiveness.
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post #16 of 43
3/3/12 at 6:12am
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post #17 of 43
3/3/12 at 6:18am
Givenchy Vetyver is my favorite.

For something different I would suggest sampling Ayala Moriel's Vetiver Racinettes.
It's not really sweet, more an herbal/root beer warmth with a dry down that IMO is like lying in a field of just sprouting vetiver grass releasing young vetiver goodness into the air.
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post #18 of 43
3/3/12 at 6:20am
Givenchy Vetyver
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post #19 of 43
3/3/12 at 6:23am
Encre Noire
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post #20 of 43
3/3/12 at 6:32am
I like my vetivers smokey and earthy, so my top two are Lorenzo Villoresi's and Fumidus. (If I picked a third, it would be vintage MPG RdV.) Of the non-smokey ones, my favorite is Givenchy.
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post #21 of 43
3/3/12 at 7:43am
i think it's hard to top fm's vetiver extraordinaire, it's probably the only vetiver that i know that i find spicy, razor sharp dry. a very interesting vetiver that i've tried is itasca from lubin, it has an amazing drydown, i'd also recommend etro vetiver, quite smoky and dense (it has listed tobacco in the base).
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post #22 of 43
3/3/12 at 9:11am
Encre Noir
Grey Vetiver
Original Vetiver
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post #23 of 43
3/3/12 at 2:32pm
I'm a sucker for vetiver-centered fragrances and I've never been able to choose a signature. My pillars are Vetiver Extraordinaire (for an over the top grassy feel), Sycomore (for something slightly smoky with hints of incense), and Route Du Vetiver (bold and uncompromising rooty-vetiver). Lately I've grown very fond of two "minor" deliveries such as Tuba by Mekkanische Rose and Sigilli's Athunis. Thay're both extremely smoky, straight forward vetivers in the same vein as John Galliano's Essence by Diptyque and Fvmidvs by Profvmvm but find them both much more balanced than either. Plus, the Mekkanische Rose has an incredible natural quality at a ridiculous price (sells for 27 euros for 100ml EDT and 37 euros for 100ml EDP).

If you want something fresher/lighter/sophisticated, the Mona Di Orio is pretty awesome and incredibly refined. Classics such as the Gyvenchy and (vintage) Guerlain are safe purchases, always.

Vettiveru by CDG is possibly one of the best bang for the buck...
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post #24 of 43
3/3/12 at 2:35pm
Without a doubt.......... Sycomore.
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post #25 of 43
3/3/12 at 5:52pm
While I keep loving many vetivers, my favorite has shifted from sycomore (the perfect combo - both fresh and woody, elegant, perfect for all occasions, from the summer to the winter) to the fresh, grassy, exciting Vetiver extraordinaire.

But now that spring is coming, I want flowers and I need to reexamine vetiver pour elle ...

cacio
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post #26 of 43
3/3/12 at 7:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by cacio View Post


But now that spring is coming, I want flowers and I need to reexamine vetiver pour elle ...

cacio

Vetyverio

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post #27 of 43
3/3/12 at 7:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post

Vetyverio


So good! Ahhh grapefruit
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post #28 of 43
3/3/12 at 7:54pm
Prada Infusion de Vetiver;
Chantecaille Vetyver.
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post #29 of 43
3/4/12 at 8:18pm
Vertiver des Sables by Montale? It's a light, comforting vetiver with some mild spices.
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post #30 of 43
3/5/12 at 4:01pm
Encore Noire by Lalique - One is initially treated to a drenched, citrusy greenness, afforded by the haitian vetiver, which progresses to an earthiness somewhat akin to the saturated soil of a marsh littered with struggling greens. A warming greenness ensues, brought about by the bourbon vetiver. A duet of vetivers is consummated. From this green, damp and dirty duet, the bourbon vetiver overtakes with a burning, ember-like texture. In the distance, the cool crispness of cypress wood tantalizes, and the tempering heart beckons. Here, the spicy cypress wood stews lusciously with the wrestling vetivers, imparting a dry smokiness to the brew. Transitioning to the soothing base, a sweetness from the cashmere wood taints the subdued vetivers, and combines with a sensual musk to impart a wonderful, dry and animalic woodiness. This exquisite fragrance has a refined and complex uniqueness. A true gem, this high quality scent has good projection and very good longevity, and warrants your indulgence.
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post #31 of 43
3/5/12 at 4:38pm
Thread Starter 
@dollars&scents - THANKS for the Poetry! You must have done this a few thousand times!
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post #32 of 43
5/21/12 at 7:01pm
Thread Starter 
Sel de Vetyver vs. Etro Vetyver

Sel starts out smelling like I imagine an islay malt distillery does. Briney and smokey. Layer in dry astringent potent vetyver. Very Raw. Then the soapy base comes cleanly to the front of the scene. A salty mineral note is discernable through the still- pungent root and smoke, somehow lending an irish-springish just-showered cleanse. The Etro is just a strong but different in every dimension. Etro begins with a boozy sweet vetyver. This opening fades slowly but stays dominant as the resinous piney middle takes shape. There cedar and other woods here as well as a standard, uninspired by nicely balanced moss base holds the scene together. Ultimately the nod goes to Sel de Vetyver.
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post #33 of 43
5/22/12 at 12:04am
Original vetiver is my favourite, so fresh and clean smelling
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post #34 of 43
5/23/12 at 8:39am
Annick Goutal VETIVER

Gorgeous take on vetiver: salty, smocky, roote and green, with some florals thrown in. Excellent
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post #35 of 43
5/23/12 at 8:48am
Mona's Vetyver is just delightful
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post #36 of 43
5/23/12 at 9:03am
I like Encre Noire but you might wanna try Noble Vetiver by Chopard (not much mentioned here)a light and fresh vetiver frag. perfect for spring /summer.
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post #37 of 43
5/23/12 at 9:40am
I am exploring the wide world of vetiver, too, and have found Wicozani's incredible blow-by-blow account of his impressions doing an exhaustive head-to-head tests of many of the top vetivers to be extremely helpful. I found it especially useful guidance because it compares fragrances side-by-side. A truly epic project, and so great of Wicozani to share his thoughts with us. I think it's a must read:

http://www.basenotes.net/threads/172...ents-added!%29

(ps: so far, I love Villoresi's Vetiver: super smokey and resinous, and an unexpected lavender note that I love. I am also keen on Sel de Vetiver and CdG's Vettiveru, for the reasons everyone mentions. )
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post #38 of 43
5/23/12 at 11:41am
TF Grey Vetiver
Sel de Vetiver
Original Vetiver
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post #39 of 43
5/23/12 at 12:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazznpool View Post

I've tried quite a few Vetiver/ Vetyver fragrances over the past few years. I did some background reading here and elsewhere and dove in. I wear Creed Original Vetiver the most often but love Guerlain Vetiver (both current and vintage), Creed Vetiver (1948) and Floris Vetiver.

Martin

Me too!! Love Vetiver 48 and the Guerlain


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?55f0ou
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post #40 of 43
5/23/12 at 2:34pm
to me creed original vetiver outshines most of the other vetivers
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post #41 of 43
5/23/12 at 10:43pm
Grey Vetiver by Tom Ford
vetyverio by dyptique
Encre Nior by Lalique
Sycamore by Chanel
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post #42 of 43
5/24/12 at 7:34am
Dior Vetiver is my go to.
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post #43 of 43
5/28/12 at 7:13am
Encre Noir is the best bang for the buck IMO.


Hey, what a second. Which vetiver did OP end up choosing anyway?
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