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What is the Nitrile used in Secretions Magnifiques?

post #1 of 11
3/6/12 at 7:42am
Thread Starter 
I've heard the controversial smell used in Secretions Magnifiques is the result of a Quest nitrile. Does anyone know what this is called and where I could buy a small amount? I'm trying to make an aquatic accord and I think a very tiny bit would be great.
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post #2 of 11
3/6/12 at 8:40am
In his book, Luca Turin says that the nitrile smells like a substance called Marenil.

Similar notes seem prominent in many perfumes, Eden, Bas de soie, Tirrenico, Love in White, M/Mink, and more. I think the bilge accord shows its unadulterated, full evil power in Tirrenico.

cacio
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post #3 of 11
3/6/12 at 9:21am
I had never heard of that, so i had a look online to see what you meant.

[0022] para-tert.butylphenylacetonitrile (also known as `Marenil` where MARENIL is a trade mark of Quest International)

I found that under patents but still looking for what the smell is.

edit:-

So far I can only find it described as bilge, or in another article, as blood, sweat and semen with metallic dirty pennies and musk.

Isn't it fascinating that perfumes seem to need a dirty horrid smell to go with the flowers just like real flowers need their roots in dirt.
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post #4 of 11
3/6/12 at 9:52am
Bilge, blood, sweat and semen? That must be it then ...

As for the dirty horrid smell to go with flowers, I'd stick with civet and leave bilges where they belong.

cacio
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post #5 of 11
3/6/12 at 10:52am
I'm with you there!!!!
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post #6 of 11
3/6/12 at 4:14pm
Well there is a discussion about SM on the yahoo perfumerygroup where Aromachemical Maritima was mentioned. I guess that's not a nitrile but can be an important part of SM fragrance.

M/Mink uses Adoxal for the eggwhite smell , personally i don't think SM uses any adoxal at all.
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post #7 of 11
3/15/12 at 7:38am
Thread Starter 
Thanks, everyone! I'll check out Marenil.
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post #8 of 11
4/14/12 at 5:30am
What's the CAS ID on that Marenil?
Is it this chem http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1547141.html
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post #9 of 11
4/14/12 at 4:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuerlainJedi View Post

What's the CAS ID on that Marenil?
Is it this chem http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1547141.html

Yes it is, the CAS is 3288-99-1
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post #10 of 11
4/14/12 at 4:25pm
sry double
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post #11 of 11
4/14/12 at 4:55pm
Just for reference, I also pick up that same chemical in Amouage Reflection Man and H&G's Bosque, if you're curious to see it used in different contexts.
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