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Niche houses for female fragrances?

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Hi all,

I'm kind of new to fragrances and was curious about niche houses which seem to be talked about a lot. I was wondering:
1) how do you generally define 'niche'? What makes a certain perfume house niche?
2) what are some of the well respected niche houses for female perfumes?
3) are there any classic niche perfumes for women? (I guess by classic I mean well known ones that have withstood the test of time)

Thanks!
post #2 of 12
A niche house is one that creates unique blends using high quality ingredients and deliberately disregards mainstream trends. A niche perfume is when the perfumer succeeds.
post #3 of 12
Niche is a VERY generic word (and too often devoided of its mere meaning). People give it several intepretations depending on their personal grade of familiarity with fragrance. Someone will tell you that Guerlain or Caron are niche, others will refer to niche by naming brands such as Lutens, Creed, Comme Des Garcons, L'Artisan ecc. ecc. A few others will talk about more obscure brands and so on...

Persoanlly I tend to give niche a more literal meaning. Niche is anything (despite the brand involved) that is different and unusual according to the concept that it is something aimed to a selected and restricted type of crowd. The rest is pure gimmick...

That being said, I try to avoid as much as possible any kind of cathegory and simply try to divide fragrances into good ones and bad ones...
post #4 of 12
Welcome:
The definition of niche is vague. Some tell it's the perfumes that have strictly distribution; if we'd count that, A*Men Flankers would be niche, but they aren't; some tell about prices: well, here were I live we pay niche prices for mainstream frags; and if it was this way Annick Goutal and some Comme Des Garçons frags wouldn't be niche. Niche perfumery usually uses better raw materials and the perfumers are more free to create; creativity is largely present on kind of fragrances.
About niche for woman I think I'm not the right person to tell you. You're very well-supported by Mr. Hedonist and Mr. Alfarom.
post #5 of 12
I understand a niche perfume house to mean one that presents itself as an alternative to mass perfume production. It is also likely to be focused on creativity rather than on mass market appeal. I don't see price as a marker in particular, but often the price will be higher considering the time and materials used.

I've never really thought of what is a good 'female' niche house. The whole male and female thing doesn't meant much to me...I test everything whether classified as male or female. One of my all time favourites is Amouage Jubilation XXV.

My favourite houses I consider niche are; Serge Lutens, Amouage, Le Labo, Mona Di Orio, L'artisan, Hove Parfumeur, Lulu Beauty and Juliette Has a Gun.
post #6 of 12
Welcome!

Hedonist and alfarom's definitions should be the ideal ones. But niche in general is used simply to mean restricted distribution, ie stuff you won't find at Macy's or department stores, and often (but not always) from firms that specialize only in perfumes. Many niche houses are low quality. So don't assume that niche is better than mainstream, use your nose.

In NYC, reference niche stores are Aedes de Venustas, Min, and certain counters at Barneys, Henri Bendel, and Bergdorf Goodman (many niche houses also have standalone stores).

About the brands, everybody will have their own favorites, and there are of course dozens of firms. Perhaps the most famous, and one of the earliest, is Serge Lutens. The first, programmatic fragrance was Feminite de bois, which, as the name suggests, brought woods (cedar) into women's perfumes. In general his style veers towards big, spicy, dried fruity, theatrical orientals. Unfortunately, many of his perfumes are sold only in his boutique in Paris.

The oldest niche house is perhaps Diptyque, characterized by a fresh, natural style (reference: l'Eau de Diptyque). Another older one is l'Artisan Parfumeur (on average, but not always, characterized by a certain lightness). Amouage was instead the first firm in the west to go into superluxury (it was, and likely still is, owned by royals in the Gulf); unfortunately recent reports suggest that some of their former glories (Amouage Gold being the signature, an enormous, oversized floral) are being watered down, so one should test and proceed with caution here before dumping hundreds of dollars into it.

Incidentally, most niche firms avoid the distinction man/woman, all their offerings are described as unisex. So, again, use your nose to find out what is for you.

cacio
post #7 of 12
Look into Annick Goutal, Parfums de Nicolai, l'Artisan Parfumeurs, Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle and see how you get along

Not niche, but try to sample Guerlain l'Art de Matiere, Parisiennes etc. and Chanel Les Exclusifs, if you can.
post #8 of 12
As l understand it, the term "niche" refers to houses that produce only perfume, & not other "designer" products such as clothes, jewellery, cosmetics, etc. lt is not necessarily an indicator of quality or price. Both can vary wildly in both niche & designer categories. And l don't think of any particular house as being preferable over any others for "feminine" fragrances.

Having said that, my favourite niche houses (so far) are Montale & Frederick Malle.
post #9 of 12
Re. Amouage watering down their formulations;
I think that's correct, some of them don't have great longevity...very sad to see
post #10 of 12
Above I made a distinction between niche house and niche perfume.

A perfume may be niche (as per my criteria above) but the house is not automatically a niche perfume house. That is because many brands create many perfumes of which some are truly niche and others would be deemed 'well made designer'.

I consider Serge Lutens to be a proper niche house because all creations, whether good or not, are unique and contra-mainstream.
post #11 of 12
Montale & Micallef
post #12 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks so much to everyone for your responses! Extremely helpful and informative. Good to know that most niche houses don't classify their fragrances as 'female' or 'male', that definitely clears up some confusion for me. I'm excited to work my way through a long list of scents to sniff and to hopefully eventually try all the ones you all mentioned
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