Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Male Fragrance Discussion › MFD Archive › Avignon, it could have been so good...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Avignon, it could have been so good...

post #1 of 45
3/17/12 at 4:15am
Thread Starter 
How could this ever happen? I was SO looking forward to sampling this fragrance, after reading lots and lots of reviews I was totally convinced that I would LOVE it, absolutely no doubt about it whatsoever. In fact I was SO convinced I almost did a blindbuy of it, however I decided it would be wiser to get a sample first, along with the rest of the CdG incense series and a couple of other incense fragrances.

So, yesterday I finally sprayed it on my wrist with full anticipation. I didn't really like the opening to be honest, it was very harsh and smelled quite synthetic to me. Then it settled down to a scent that did indeed come pretty close to the incense burned in Catholic church, however the resemblance is not quite good enough in my opinion. It smells a little more harsh and synthetic to me and I think it's definitely not smokey enough. Then after about 3 to 4 hours it turned into a skin scent and had almost no projection anymore. I had to put my nose down to my wrist to actually smell it. Soon after that a sweet, vanilla-ish note comes through and at that point the resemblance to Catholic church incense is almost totally gone for me. I was so dissapointed, this was not what I expected it to be at all. I can't shake off the feeling that I'm missing out of a lot, since so many people rave about this fragrance. Maybe it just doesn't work on my skin...

Now, shortly after I put on Avignon and started to get dissapointed I decided to spray Full Incense on my other wrist. There's a lot of similarities indeed, however Full Incense projects a lot more and it lasts MUCH longer. It's a little bit fuller and 'sweeter' than Avignon but it's a 'warm', peppery sweetness where Avignon has a cold, harsh vanilla sweetness in the drydown.

Before sampling these two fragrances I expected Avignon to be the absolute winner and Full Incense to be a 'cheap' copy of Avignon, but based on my comparison I think I prefer Full Incense to Avignon at the moment. However, I will definitely try Avignon again cause something in the back of my head keeps whispering that I'm missing out on something, but maybe it's just that I WANT to love it too much... Damn you Avignon, why did you do that to me. We could have grown old together...
Reply
Reply

Features on Basenotes

Petals Falling From The Sky - A Report From The Cote d'Azur's Bataille De Fleurs
Basenotes Reader Awards 2013 - Finalists Announced.
Greatest Hits: Annick Menardo
post #2 of 45
3/17/12 at 4:38am
It's interesting to read your take on it, I had a similar experience with it where I was convinced I'd love it... then hated the harsh opening of my sample, months later I craved it and ordered a whole bottle.
I now struggle with it, it's hard to explain why, I wrote a review similarly to yours comparing it to Heeley's Cardinal on my blog (link below) but it really is a fragrance much more complicated than it needs to be or actually is...
Reply
Reply
post #3 of 45
3/17/12 at 4:46am
To me it smells like a funeral. I love it but everyone around me said it's grotesque.
Reply
Reply
post #4 of 45
3/17/12 at 5:03am
Let me add this integral point. Comme des Garcons prides itself on creating perfumes wi a touch of synthetic to them. A new world (high quality) take on a classic.

If you want a more natural smelling incense (similar to Avignon) try Preludio d'Oriente.
It's a very very natural intense smelling incense. My only issue is that it doesn't project as much as I want it to.
Notice I said as much as I want it to not as much as it shoud because perceptions and requirements differ.

I urge you to try it. Another first class incense is Incense Oud - by Kilian. A reference incense.
Reply
Reply
post #5 of 45
3/17/12 at 7:45am
Personally like Full Incense much better.
Reply
Reply
post #6 of 45
3/17/12 at 11:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post

If you want a more natural smelling incense (similar to Avignon) try Preludio d'Oriente.
It's a very very natural intense smelling incense. My only issue is that it doesn't project as much as I want it to.
Notice I said as much as I want it to not as much as it shoud because perceptions and requirements differ.

Thank you for that recommdnation, Hedonist222. I have an incense-gap in my wardrobe, and that one sounds promising.

I quite enjoyed Avignon, but...with Jewish ancestry, I honestly feel uncomfortable with its too-exact rendering of liturgical incense. For all that I attended Orthodox mass as a child - my mother's faith - it arouses uncomfortable associations for me. A tad synthetic - yes, it is. If I was looking for this sort of hyperreal rendering, however, I would be happy with Avignon.
Reply
Reply
post #7 of 45
3/17/12 at 11:45am
I would also recommend M Micallef's Shanaan. Nothing "synthetic feeling" in this wonderful incense offering.
Reply
Reply
post #8 of 45
3/17/12 at 11:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Merely View Post

Thank you for that recommdnation, Hedonist222. I have an incense-gap in my wardrobe, and that one sounds promising.

I quite enjoyed Avignon, but...with Jewish ancestry, I honestly feel uncomfortable with its too-exact rendering of liturgical incense. For all that I attended Orthodox mass as a child - my mother's faith - it arouses uncomfortable associations for me. A tad synthetic - yes, it is. If I was looking for this sort of hyperreal rendering, however, I would be happy with Avignon.

No problem .
Reply
Reply
post #9 of 45
3/17/12 at 3:20pm
No dobuts Avignon has the typical synthetic woody base of many other CDGs but it's still an incredibly distinctive and thoroughly enjoyable fragrance.
Reply
Reply
post #10 of 45
3/17/12 at 3:25pm
maybe it's you
Reply
Reply
post #11 of 45
3/17/12 at 3:50pm
IMO Avignon >>>>>>>>>>>> Full Incense.
Reply
Reply
post #12 of 45
3/17/12 at 6:32pm
Your opinion is interesting, IMO Avignon was all right but Kyoto is awesome probably the best of the line.
Reply
Reply
post #13 of 45
3/17/12 at 9:23pm
I think Avignon is very nice, but if you're looking for a comparable Catholic Church incense give Heeley Cardinal a try.
Reply
Reply
post #14 of 45
3/18/12 at 3:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by CityFan21 View Post

I think Avignon is very nice, but if you're looking for a comparable Catholic Church incense give Heeley Cardinal a try.

+1

It's brighter and warmer (which sounds like a negative when you're after a dark churchy scent) but much more meditative, easy to wear and a perfect church incense scent. I absolutely love this stuff.
Reply
Reply
post #15 of 45
3/18/12 at 4:39am
Thread Starter 
@forfreddie: Really nice to read your review, it's indeed pretty similar to mine. Great blog you have, loved reading through all your reviews...

@hedonist222, perfaddict, CityFan21: Thanks very much for the suggestions. They all sound very interesting to me, especially Preludio d'Oriente. I will definitely add them to my to-sample list. I do have a sample of Heeley Cardinal and I will give it a try soon.

@Oupavoc: Funny that you mention it, I actually tried Kyoto yesterday. Avignon and Kyoto were the two fragrances of the CdG incense series I was looking forward to most. But Kyoto was another dissapointment for me. I don't dislike it, but I think it's a way too 'pretty' fragrance. I guess I kind of expect and prefer some darkness and deep smokiness in an incense fragrance and that is totally lacking from Kyoto. I think it's not smokey at all, in fact if I didn't know beforehand I probably would never had guessed it was an incense fragrance.

Also it's very sweet on my skin, almost fruity. I think it's the cypress but I get an almost mango-like smell which makes it way to bright and cheerful for me. To me, it doesn't conjure up an image of Kyoto or Japan at all, more of a tropical island.

Funny thing is that I tried L'Artisan Parfumeur's Timbuktu (also by Bertrand Duchaufour) recently and to me Kyoto almost seems like a carbon copy of that fragrance, it think they smell really, really similar. And Timbuktu does have mango in it, strange... Also, I think Kyoto smells like it could have been part of the Hermes Jardin series, it somehow reminds me of Un Jardin sur le Nil (which has mango also). So where does that mango scent I get in Kyoto come from? Is it indeed the Cypress?

Now, at the moment I'm wearing Jaisalmer from the CdG incense series and I really like it so far. The opening is really spicy but it settles down to a scent that for me maybe comes even closer to my recollection of the incense I smelled when I visited Catholic church than Avignon does. I think a mix between Avignon and Jaisalmer would probably be perfect...
Reply
Reply
post #16 of 45
3/21/12 at 1:39am
Thread Starter 
Well, another one down the drain. Tried Zagorsk yesterday and it was yet another disappointment. Everywhere I read that it's supposed to be a dark, very cold and piney fragrance. Well on my skin it's not cold at all, it's actually a quite warm and sweet scent and not dark at all. I do get some pine but it's a very sweet and artificial 'piney' note, almost fruity, and in no way does it evoke the church in the big, cold, snowy pine forest to me.

It's actually starting to annoy me a little, of the four fragrances of the CdG incense series I tried so far: Avignon, Kyoto, Jaisalmer and Zagorsk three were a disappointment and I only liked Jaisalmer. None of the other come close to the descriptions and reviews I read. I really don't understand why they turn out so totally different on my skin. Not to bash CdG at all, but so far I think this incense series is overrated. Or maybe my expectations were totally wrong. I think these fragrances are way too safe and 'pretty', while I prefer my incense fragrances dark, dirty, pungent, natural and smokey. Well, one more to go now: Ouarzazate...
Reply
Reply
post #17 of 45
3/21/12 at 3:36am
Daze, that's exactly what is incredibly interesting about fragrance: divergences!

On a side note, if you like Jaisalmer you should definitely check Tauer's Incense Extreme and Bois D'Encens. Also sharing a similar Tiger Balm vibe but without incense, Esprit Du Tigre.
Reply
Reply
post #18 of 45
3/21/12 at 5:07am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfarom View Post

Daze, that's exactly what is incredibly interesting about fragrance: divergences!

On a side note, if you like Jaisalmer you should definitely check Tauer's Incense Extreme and Bois D'Encens. Also sharing a similar Tiger Balm vibe but without incense, Esprit Du Tigre.

Yeah, but it sucks I apparently can't enjoy these fragrances the way other people can. I mean, they sound so interesting on paper and right up my alley but on my skin they just don't work out. I don't really find that a problem with most other fragrances but somehow I just really wanted and expected to love these ones.

I probably shouldn't have called them overrated cause I know everyone's nose and skin chemistry is different and how I experience the scent may be a lot different than someone else does. Also, while I try to judge a fragrance as objectively as possible, I think part of appreciating a fragrance is based on expectations and associations which of course may differ a lot from other people too...

And thanks for the recommendations alfarom. I've got a sample of Incense Extreme and will try it out soon. Bois D'Encens I have on my to-sample list for a while but haven't found a way to sample it yet. Esprit Du Tigre also sounds interesting...
Reply
Reply
post #19 of 45
3/21/12 at 5:20am
Daze, you're right, "overrated" it's probably not exactly the most appropriate word, maybe they simply didn't work for you (which is fine). The Incense Series by Comme Des Garcons has been hugely influential and all the praise it got was unquestionably deserved (at least IMO).

It was great to hear your refreshing thoughts, please, keep us posted on your next discoveries and I hope you'll find your perfect incense...
Reply
Reply
post #20 of 45
3/21/12 at 5:44am
If you thought Full Incense was good, try Amouages Opus IV. Thats da bomb!
Reply
Reply
post #21 of 45
3/21/12 at 6:32am
Rock Crystal by Olivier Durbano has, in its heart, a rapturous, somewhat muted frankincense, reminiscent of a emptied church following the celebration of a High Mass. However, that may not be enough incense for you.
Reply
Reply
post #22 of 45
3/21/12 at 7:14am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trebor View Post

If you thought Full Incense was good, try Amouages Opus IV. Thats da bomb!

Sounds interesting, but the price, THE PRICE... I'm afraid to try it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dollars&scents View Post

Rock Crystal by Olivier Durbano has, in its heart, a rapturous, somewhat muted frankincense, reminiscent of a emptied church following the celebration of a High Mass. However, that may not be enough incense for you.

Thanks for the suggestion, I actually have a sample of Rock Crystal but haven't tried it yet. Actually I have samples of the entire Olivier Durbano 'line' including Black Tourmaline, I don't know how prominent the incense is in that one but maybe I should really try that one too as I suspect it might fit the bill for me...
Reply
Reply
post #23 of 45
3/21/12 at 10:22am
Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano - Upon application, one experiences a wonderfully smoky leather accord and a burst of lively pepper, with its smooth, almost woody presence. A wondrous, campfire smell majestically ebbs and flows as well. This captivating opening meanders to the awating middle. Transitioning to the heart, heaps of heavenly sweet and orangey frankincense as well as medicinal and musty oud crest the potent, smoky wave, and are joined with a herbal pas de trois of fresh and slightly bitter cardamom, nutty and spicy coriander as well as a smattering of dirty and sweaty cumin. A halo of flavorful and dry woods caps the remarkable melange, and wends to the waiting base. An alluring blend of warm and fur-like musk, velvety and slightly sweet amber, bitter and foresty moss as well as a hint of dark and earthy patchouli, highlights the robust base and leads to an evocative drydown. This superbly mysterious and intense composition has average projection and longevity.
Reply
Reply
post #24 of 45
3/21/12 at 6:54pm
Avignon was one of the first ones on my blindbuy-wishlist and still is; but I also preffer a natural-incense-smell, with some smoke and resins.
Thanks for the thoughts.
Reply
Reply
post #25 of 45
3/21/12 at 10:37pm
I suggest you don't write it off, just put it aside for now.

I thought "so what" about the whole Comme line until I suddenly "got it" and started to appreciate the depth and/or uniqueness within the synthetic aspects of the compositions.
Even then, I still wasn't convinced by the Incense range. Now though, after repeated wearings, I'm finding the love for these and understanding they're uniqueness and influence.

I'm not saying you'll ever love them (or even like them!) but do revisit Avignon from time to time - you never know.
Reply
Reply
post #26 of 45
3/22/12 at 1:27am
Thread Starter 
I think you're right laph. I won't write them off just yet and definitely intend to try them again...

Yesterday I tried the last one out of the line, Ouarzazate. The opening was a HUGE blast of incense, spices and pepper, predominantly pepper that was so 'hot' it almost burned my nose hairs. Don't get me wrong, I like it but hoped it would mellow down just a little cause it was a bit too much. Well it did... a lot... It mellowed down immensely within a couple of minutes, in fact I've never had a fragrance turn from so strong to so weak in such a short time. After about an hour it had turned into a skin scent and was hardly noticeable unless I put my nose to my wrist. At that point the scent had changed into something very similar to CdG 2 Man (also by Mark Buxton), a fragrance I like a lot by the way. So, while I like this scent, the opening promised so much and in the end didn't really deliver anything new or interesting. Also, projection and longevity were weak on me.

All in all, I'm glad I've tried the entire line now and while I was disappointed in most of them I feel there's probably still more to get from them and like I said I will definitely try them again. In any way, I applaud and respect CdG for being so creative and daring for coming out with a line of fragrances like this, and maybe that's a part of why I want to love it so much...
Reply
Reply
post #27 of 45
3/22/12 at 4:12am
Avignon is well made but in my view, it has three major defects :
- The overall result -and taking into account the genre to wich it belongs- is too politically correct and linear.
- It seems to be possible identify a certain intent to create a parfum that resembles to.. , instead of create a perfume that evokes directly the image they want suggest.
-There is some note in there that reminds me of the lead of pencils.

I suggest you try Loewe 7.
Reply
Reply
post #28 of 45
3/22/12 at 4:29am
I enoy it. When people say, this or that smells like a church, surely they don't all smell the same? If you want 100% accurate church incense, perhaps getting some from the same supplier as your local church would be an option or maybe you could buy some of an altar boy lol
Reply
Reply
post #29 of 45
3/22/12 at 4:37am
Daze, I suggest you to try Norma Kamali's Incense. I received a sample from a kind Basenoter and it immediately jumped at the top among the most realistic church incense/myrrh centered compositions. On a side note, it really smells very natural too.
Reply
Reply
post #30 of 45
3/22/12 at 7:23am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackened View Post

I suggest you try Loewe 7.

Funny you mention that one blackened, I have a sample of Loewe 7 and was actually planning to test it soon. Well, actually I have a huge amount of samples I still need to work through...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rüssel View Post

If you want 100% accurate church incense, perhaps getting some from the same supplier as your local church would be an option or maybe you could buy some of an altar boy lol

Or maybe I just should become an altar boy...

Uuuuh NO...

Quote:
Originally Posted by alfarom View Post

Daze, I suggest you to try Norma Kamali's Incense. I received a sample from a kind Basenoter and it immediately jumped at the top among the most realistic church incense/myrrh centered compositions. On a side note, it really smells very natural too.

Thanks for the suggestion alfarom. I read some reviews of it, including yours, and I must say it definitely piqued my interest. This sounds like an incense beast I might really enjoy. However, I'm unable to find any way to sample or even buy this fragrance. I even read that it's discontinued...
Reply
Reply
post #31 of 45
3/22/12 at 7:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daze View Post

Thanks for the suggestion alfarom. I read some reviews of it, including yours, and I must say it definitely piqued my interest. This sounds like an incense beast I might really enjoy. However, I'm unable to find any way to sample or even buy this fragrance. I even read that it's discontinued...

Keep an eye at the marketplace...
Reply
Reply
post #32 of 45
3/22/12 at 11:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daze View Post

I read some reviews of it, including yours, and I must say it definitely piqued my interest. This sounds like an incense beast I might really enjoy. However, I'm unable to find any way to sample or even buy this fragrance. I even read that it's discontinued...

Norma Kamali's Incense is more about sherry and copal so, if this piques your interest, it may be worth seeking out.

Btw, it hasn't been discontinued - it's just temporary unavailable, while undergoing a packaging facelift (which could also imply a possible reformulation).

As for Opus IV, it can easily be purchased for almost half-price on ebay...
Reply
Reply
post #33 of 45
3/22/12 at 12:01pm
I realy like Avignone but my top iz KYOTO !
Reply
Reply
post #34 of 45
3/22/12 at 12:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trebor View Post

Norma Kamali's Incense is more about sherry and copal so, if this piques your interest, it may be worth seeking.

Copal yes I get it but no sherry to me. I'm an avid incense burner and lately I'm on a big kick for a mixture of grains made by the Erbosristeria Palazzo Vecchio (I Profumi di Firenze) which is entirely based on commiphora molmol and boswellia carteri. It smells EXACTLY like the Norma Kamali.

When you say Sherry, you mean the liquor? I'm genuinely curious.
Reply
Reply
post #35 of 45
3/22/12 at 12:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfarom View Post

When you say Sherry, you mean the liquor? I'm genuinely curious.

Yep, that's right.
Reply
Reply
post #36 of 45
3/22/12 at 1:10pm
Btw, when I said sherry it doesn't mean that sherry's necessarily in the composition. I think it's largely derived from the type of labdanum used but this variety is a lot sharper (or boozy) than the ones I've sampled.
Reply
Reply
post #37 of 45
3/22/12 at 1:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trebor View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by alfarom View Post

When you say Sherry, you mean the liquor? I'm genuinely curious.

Yep, that's right.

that´s interesting! the sherry originates from where I live.
I get from 1740 Marquis de Sade, a very similar vibe to Oloroso (scented) a variety of sherry.
Reply
Reply
post #38 of 45
3/22/12 at 1:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackened View Post

that´s interesting! the sherry originates from where I live.

In the same way a lot of labdanum is sourced from Spain...
Reply
Reply
post #39 of 45
3/22/12 at 2:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trebor View Post

Btw, when I said sherry it doesn't mean that sherry's necessarily in the composition. I think it's largely derived from the type of labdanum used but this variety is a lot sharper (or boozy) than the ones I've sampled.

I'll try to keep this in mind while testing it again...thanks for the tip
Reply
Reply
post #40 of 45
4/10/12 at 3:38am
I have been looking for Preludio d'Oriente everywhere online for a while now, I tried the Calé website cale.it but for some reason I can't order from the site. Do you you know any online site that carries this scent? I live in Canada and can't find it anywhere?
Reply
Reply
post #41 of 45
4/10/12 at 9:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daze View Post

Funny thing is that I tried L'Artisan Parfumeur's Timbuktu (also by Bertrand Duchaufour) recently and to me Kyoto almost seems like a carbon copy of that fragrance, it think they smell really, really similar.

This has been my experience every time I've tried Timbuktu. I already own Kyoto, and Timbuktu smells VERY similar to me. I've posted about this here before, and while a few others know what I mean, most pile on to say they're nothing alike. Which I don't understand at all. (They're even by the same nose.) Anyway, glad someone else notices it. (For what it's worth, I like both fragrances quite a bit.)
Reply
Reply
post #42 of 45
4/10/12 at 1:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlorrieDugger View Post

I have been looking for Preludio d'Oriente everywhere online for a while now, I tried the Calé website cale.it but for some reason I can't order from the site. Do you you know any online site that carries this scent? I live in Canada and can't find it anywhere?

------> http://www.ausliebezumduft.de/cale-f...oriente-3.html
Reply
Reply
post #43 of 45
4/10/12 at 3:16pm
For my money, the most wearable incense I've come across yet is L'Artisan's Aedes De Venustas (not their new one with the frustrating exact same name). It's somewhat similar to Amouage's Jubilation XXV, but less complex (in a good way). AdV is not literal/liturgical. It is delicious without being gourmand.

AFAIC, AdV easily trumps any of the CdG incenses, Avignon, or the Montale offering, all of which I find somewhat...uninspiring.

I don't fully understand why Timbuktu keeps getting mentioned in incense threads--it's great, but not really in the same scent genre, IMO.
Reply
Reply
post #44 of 45
4/10/12 at 4:24pm
Thanks Alfarom.
Reply
Reply
post #45 of 45
4/10/12 at 4:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hednic View Post

Personally like Full Incense much better.

+ 1
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: MFD Archive

Features on Basenotes

Petals Falling From The Sky - A Report From The Cote d'Azur's Bataille De Fleurs
Basenotes Reader Awards 2013 - Finalists Announced.
Greatest Hits: Annick Menardo
Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Male Fragrance Discussion › MFD Archive › Avignon, it could have been so good...