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Civet (plus a few other notes)—modern versions?

post #1 of 23
3/19/12 at 1:13pm
Thread Starter 
I'm finding that civet/clary sage/ tarragon is a most favored note combo for me, and so far I am only smelling this in vintage. Are there any in-production frags that have these notes, especially the civet? Is there a synthetic civet? Educate me.
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post #2 of 23
3/19/12 at 1:20pm
You should look into Mouchoir de Monsieur, if you haven't - the current is still good. Civetone is of the synthetic kind today, but I am no expert.
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post #3 of 23
3/19/12 at 1:36pm
Regrettably civety florals are pretty much out of fashion. Amouage Gold man is a civet bomb, a huge incensy floral with tons of it. Dior Jules has plenty of clary sage as well, but I've seen it sold only in France, I'm not sure it's available in the US. Joy is the prototypical jasmine-civet floral, but I have not smelled it post-IFRA - if the jasmine is gone, so is the civet.

cacio
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post #4 of 23
3/19/12 at 1:52pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks. If it's any help, the fragrance that I can't get enough of is vintage Antilope EdT and PdT. Fortunately I have about 5 or 6 ounces of the Antilope. I also suspect I will move to something greener or more tropical for the warmer weather. The civet there is a very light but noticeable touch. My Sin Eau de Lanvin is another, it has a similar "lotiony" finish with more civet. And, of course, there is Miss Dior vintage.

I will have to sample Mouchoir de Monsieur and the others; cacio. Time to poke about the masculines
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post #5 of 23
3/19/12 at 2:12pm
Leather Oud has plenty of civet in it.
A lovely fecal note.
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post #6 of 23
3/19/12 at 2:34pm
Thread Starter 
hedonist, this sounds good. I love leather, too, and am just starting in on Dior.
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post #7 of 23
3/19/12 at 2:34pm
I second Miss Dior and My Sin, and then remembered: only in the vintage. Which is no help! I find a teeny bit of civety-ness in new Joy, but it is a poor tame fat house cat compared to the vintage. Again with the vintage. Oh, mourn the old nasty scents! I am not helping it seems...but like you, I love these notes and can't wait to see what others might recommend in a modern scent.
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post #8 of 23
3/19/12 at 2:37pm
Popping civet into the advanced search yields 71 frags most of which are still in production. From Al Oudh to Spellbound and Occur! So something for everyone. A couple of Neil Morris's as well as the Artisan. Petroleum is in there too
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post #9 of 23
3/19/12 at 2:40pm
jujy:

indeed, Mouchoir is supposed to be Jicky with more civet (though with all the reformulations is never clear who has more of what).

Somehow, civet seems to have survived more in a few masculines, at least those that have escaped the sanitizing effect of azure sporty materials. It is now assumed that women must smell of canned fruit, witness the recent defacement of Miss Dior, which, having been reformulated beyond recognition, has now been finally killed and substituted with the Cherie syrup. That said, Gold man seems perfect for women. Jules would probably be a stretch: Kouros it is not, but still, it's not shy either.

Funny you mentioned My sin - I was about to cite it too. I'm not a big fan of the top (I feel much more for Joy), but the drydown is wonderful.

cacio
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post #10 of 23
3/19/12 at 6:36pm
Thread Starter 
Yes, My Sin's drydown is sublime. If you like that you will love Antilope, and I'll gladly send you a sample if you pm me an address.
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post #11 of 23
3/19/12 at 11:31pm
Another one is Eau des Iles by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier.
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post #12 of 23
3/22/12 at 5:29pm
SLF by Love Potions Magickal Perfumary. Contains (synthetic) civet and copulins.
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post #13 of 23
3/22/12 at 8:10pm
Thread Starter 
Copulins! Interrrrresting chemical name....
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post #14 of 23
3/25/12 at 1:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post

I'm finding that civet/clary sage/ tarragon is a most favored note combo for me, and so far I am only smelling this in vintage. Are there any in-production frags that have these notes, especially the civet? Is there a synthetic civet? Educate me.

All civet used nowadays is synthetic! It is mainly a mixture of indole and skatole as far as I know.
I think Guerlain Samsara has some civet. Also Must by Cartier.
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post #15 of 23
3/25/12 at 1:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post

hedonist, this sounds good. I love leather, too, and am just starting in on Dior.

What about Cuir de Russie by Chanel? Leather + flowery civet.
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post #16 of 23
3/26/12 at 5:10am
I get a nice civet experience from Chanel no. 5 in the pure parfum version - my bottle is about 4 to 5 years old. I have also recently sampled Amouage Gold for Women and was happily surprised at the civet undertones. These may be too aldehydic for you but there you have my two cents.
What about the current Jicky? The pdt from the 80's that I have is quite "squirelly" with civet, but that is the only version I have ever experienced. It knocked my socks off when I first tried it.
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post #17 of 23
3/26/12 at 5:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieNase View Post

All civet used nowadays is synthetic! It is mainly a mixture of indole and skatole as far as I know.
I think Guerlain Samsara has some civet. Also Must by Cartier.

Not quite all current fragrances use synthetic civet - though all of mine certainly do - so too do the huge majority of mass-market fragrances. If you want to smell the real stuff you can still get it from some suppliers such as this one, who also happens to be a basenoter. Personally I have an ethical difficulty with real civet so I dont use it, but it isnt illegal in most countries, has not been prohibited by IFRA and certainly can still be used.

There are synthetic civet blends offered by the major manufacturers - the one I use is from Givaudan - but the key ingredient isnt indole or skatole but civetone, which besides having its own strong smell is also a very effective fixative. Synthetic civet is a very good replacement with a near identical smell and containing the very same molecule (civetone) that the civet itself makes.
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post #18 of 23
3/26/12 at 5:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtamara41 View Post

What about the current Jicky? The pdt from the 80's that I have is quite "squirelly" with civet, but that is the only version I have ever experienced. It knocked my socks off when I first tried it.

Strangely enough, today it seems the current extrait is 'skankier' (civet) than the current EdP. The latter I have come to love (once I had accepted the fact it had practically no civet in it or it is so well blended that I can't detect it - mind you, I have a high tolerance level for animalics until I perceive them as 'outrageous') now. It is the most exquisite lavender, smoky vanilla mix with a naughty, dirty vibe of both ( I think I can detect the 'dash of birch tar' added that Turin or Dove refers to). Lavender rocks! Always liked it, but it's becoming one big wardrobe theme of mine!
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post #19 of 23
3/26/12 at 9:39am
I never thought anyone was as into civet as I am. I especially love civet and leather together, take BAV for example, soooo in love. I guess I am just into animalic notes a lot but I too think civet is mostly in vintage but not always, Le Labo tends to put quite a bit of animalic notes in their fumes but Iris 39 which has quite a bit of civet is not a green civet fume but a floral fragrance with civet like Diorissimo too.
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post #20 of 23
3/26/12 at 9:40am
I forgot to say what a great thread and so happy that you have started it jujy54! Jicky sound like something I would fall head over heels for but where to get it? I am a huge fan of lavender as well.
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post #21 of 23
3/26/12 at 12:31pm
Thread Starter 
double post!
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post #22 of 23
3/26/12 at 12:36pm
Thread Starter 
OVinvcze. How sweet of your to say. I haven't done the niche thing yet, and Le Labo has intrigued me; it is a plus that they offer affordable ways to sample, too.

As to skank, I once layered Kouros over Shalimar; if I could name it it would Long Weekend in Bed. Or, maybe Lost Weekend in Bed.
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post #23 of 23
3/26/12 at 2:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larimar View Post

Strangely enough, today it seems the current extrait is 'skankier' (civet) than the current EdP. The latter I have come to love (once I had accepted the fact it had practically no civet in it or it is so well blended that I can't detect it - mind you, I have a high tolerance level for animalics until I perceive them as 'outrageous') now. It is the most exquisite lavender, smoky vanilla mix with a naughty, dirty vibe of both ( I think I can detect the 'dash of birch tar' added that Turin or Dove refers to). Lavender rocks! Always liked it, but it's becoming one big wardrobe theme of mine!

When I fist tried the (current) Jicky EdP it took my breath away as I have - or used to have - a very LOW tolerance level. In the beginning it really produced nausea for me, like a very strong bad breath. Wasn't able to smell anything else besides it (when smelling up close). Now I'm getting used to it. I have a decant of the slightly milder EdT and even use it at times.
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Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Female Fragrance Discussion › Civet (plus a few other notes)—modern versions?