After Shaves of Favorite Fragrances

Hello fellow Basenoters -

I have found, over the years, that nothing is better than a nice layering of high-quality After Shave lotions and balms of favorite fragrances. Most refreshing after a nice, smooth shave - but you can also use After Shaves as a layering element of your favorite Eau de Toilette. Actually, some stubble (hair does grab, absorb and radiate scent) is nice too. So, razor not required.

I recently noticed that Vintage After Shaves lotions (liquid) were typically very true to form to the EdT they complimented. However, that is not the case with balms, especially in today's world of fragrance. I understand that an after shave lotion (splash typically, but sometimes spray) is for tightening and toning - as well as scent. I'm not focused on Old Spice or Brut here (nothing against two scents that transcend time), but more about fragrance.

One that I found to be a good example is, my favorite male fragrance, Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (Vintage). The smell of the After Shave is truly excellent! It is true to form, if stored properly. If you want a light application of scent and don't need longevity, you can conserve your EdT and still get several hours of nice scent. After shave doesn't have the same lifespan as EdT. I've received sets where the EdT was in very good order and the after shave had turned. I did a little research and found out this typical range of concentrations of aromatic ingredient in After Shave vs. Eau de Toilette (and other concentrations):

The concentration of aromatic ingrediences is as follows (ascending concentration):

Splash and After shave: 1-3% aromatic compounds
Eau de Cologne (EdC): About 26 percent perfume concentrate aromatic compounds
Eau de Toilette (EdT): 5-15% (typical ~10%) aromatic compounds
Eau de Parfum (EdP), Parfum de Toilette (PdT): 10-20% (typical ~15%) aromatic compounds.
Perfume extract (Extrait): 15-40% (IFRA: typical 20%) aromatic compounds

So, I did a recent comparison and found that after shave balms (without alcohol) are, in essence, scented moisturizer for the skin. I find there is more room for error here. While you can take the exact formula of EDT (for example) and just dilute it more to make a perfect complimentary After Shave - the balm is an entirely new creation of scent, composition, etc.

I have gone through my wardrobe and realized just how different balms can be from the EdT you apply - some are actually their own scent entirely and should not be used in conjunction. And, today, it is more difficult to find liquid after shave for scents. I found this out with Azzaro Pour Homme when buying the balm...it is actually slightly medicinal and herbal in composition. No base notes from ApH that I could detect whatsoever - is it just me? However, after a shave recently, I reached for it and wore it by itself after applying some ice cold water to wash off my smooth face and seal the pores. After a few minutes, I put on a nice amount of the balm and found it to be its own smell - just not Azzaro Pour Homme. Not bad, but not great.

One stand-out modern fragrance that I have EdT, After Shave (spray), and After Shave Balm is Viktor & Rolf Antidote. All are excellent and really compliment the fragrance. The After Shave spray is actually fantastic and comes in a large format (which I have several of). It allows me to conserve my EdT and wear a nice light application and layer it - with or without shaving. The After Shave Balm is one of the truest to form of the fragrance I have found. And, with the complexity of Antidote, that is not an easy accomplishment. Kudos to V&R!

I would like to hear people's thoughts on scents that have excellent After Shaves (either lotions or balms), their preferred application and which fragrances to be careful of.

Cheers.

ericrico

Thank you, Zerby!

I love that fragrance! Now, I'm kicking myself as I just lost (in the final seconds) a set of EdT and After Shave (both 100ml) on eBay. I should've just gone for it...oh well, thank you again!

Cheers.

Hello, my friend -

I will look into what you wrote more - thank you so much for adding this insight to the thread. I really like what you added about applying a neutral balm, waiting 10-15 mins, then apply the After Shave splash with an atomizer. Mixing is something I have heard before as well - but to get the balance right is difficult (as well as tricky mixing it when you are in a hurry).

Always a pleasure, man!

Cheers.

Excellent -

Thank you, Slayerized!

This thread is getting better and better. Great additions!

Your insight is excellent and precise. Plus, you offer a great assortment from my favorites to over-the-counter ones that blend well.

Very good, man!

Cheers.

Absolutely correct Odorloader -

I am sick and tired of buying expensive balms to compliment my scent and they smell no different (than a touch) than Nivea and don't have all the great vitamins for my face.

An example, I took a bottle of very expensive Gucci Envy for Men EDT out today (perfect juice) and the after shave balm. I had my father take the back of his right hand and I applied a nice amount of the After Shave Balm. We waited 5 minutes - very little "fragrance", but it smelled like a neutral balm. I took out the Gucci Envy for Men EDT - one shot to the back of his left hand...the room filled with ginger, incense, tobacco, patchouli, spices and florals...drying down with a nice incense-infused oriental (amber/vanilla) base. Back to the balm - no discernable scent that you could even relate the two to one another!

The 50ml balms of Gucci Envy for Men go for around $18 or more on Ebay! Expensive for something that is not truly fragrant or scented enough to tell what you're putting on your face.

Cheers.

Hey martinijo -

Thank you - a pleasure and I like what you have here. It truly is a "mixed bag" - some good, some bad.

Gucci Envy for Men - couldn't agree more. Probably one of the better After Shave Lotions on the market! So true to form - I liken it to Antidote, which I mention in starting this thread. Even the scents have similarities in notes (and, ironically green color for newer Envy).

I, personally, feel that After Shave Lotions are a great way to enhance top notes and refresh a full wearing, if the juices are similar and complimentary.

Balms are rarely good. One that stands out - actually one of the best I've come across - is Michael Kors for Men. The 5oz tall bottle of balm has an emulsion feel with the feeling of small beads (a bit grainy). Sounds strange, but it goes on your face incredibly well and is extremely fragrant.

Another, ironically, in that realm of smell (Michael Kors came first) is John Varvatos entire line - especially the Classic that comes in a beautiful flacon that is opaque but same size (125ml) and is so rich that I don't even have to apply EDT unless I want to (and, since I love the smell of JV - I always put on several good sprays, including several to clothes as longevity is an issue for the EDT). Combined, though, I find it to be far better!

Thank you - I hope this helps...more to come!

Cheers.

Hey danho -

Guerlain Vetiver - absolutely! I have vintage after shave (mid-to-late 90's formula) that is simply fantastic!

I love a lot of different "offerings" from Guerlain's Vetiver line...even the nice foaming shave gel. So fragrant and rich (that comes in an old-school, tall metal can)! I don't use a straight razor (as my wife says, I have baby-soft skin on my face), but found it to be very nice and useful - as it was a generous throw-in with a 125ml bottle of juice I got (NIB reformulated frosted bottle, which I happen to like, especially for layering with Vintage EDT or Original Vintage EDC - all add a different "dimension" but are complimentary in a wonderful way).

How I use it: I wash my face very thoroughly and finish with cold water. I then apply a light amount of the Guerlain Vetiver shaving gel/and lather it up a bit for a nice foam. I let it dry sit on my face for a few minutes and then use my electric razor with water (a top-of-the-line Norelco). Always a great shave and it kick starts the Vetiver ride (unless I used the body wash prior in the shower - :-) ! )

I appreciate your contribution and I, too, have no problem shelling out $50 for a 100ml of good after shave that adds to the EDT's form!

Cheers.

ericrico

Hello Ken_Russell -

I admire your opinions and comments greatly here on this forum! Not off-topic at all actually...as other people have chimed in as well...a great way create your own scented emulsion when blended with EDT or layered. For people with drier skin who "sponge" up fragrance and don't get the longevity desired (or even expected), a nice unscented after shave balm is a great way to create a moisturized "foundation" for EDT's to blend with and not soak into dry skin.

Others have mentioned brands - do you have a favorite? Another key point is that they are typically found very inexpensively at drugstores.

Check out Renato's detailed comments in this thread...you are right on topic, my friend!

Cheers.

Yes - I am interested!

And, I did mention it in the original post. Very sorry to hear the correlation you get from it. That shows us the power of olfactory memory and scent. It is just as powerful (when refined) as imagery.

I will send you a PM.

Best wishes,

Eric

Hello -

No - feel free to talk about whatever. I recognize Brut as a landmark in male grooming and scent.

And, the main reason I wanted to thank you for your reply is that you bring up a key point...some Vintage After Shaves are more "true-to-form" and richer than current reformulated EDT's! The EDT becomes complimentary, ironically.

I too, have found some After Shaves are of EDC strength (so definitely in the 2-3% aromatic compound in the composition). Longevity will always be an issue, but as a refresher or "light-wear" in warm, balmy weather - very nice...fragrant but light.

Cheers!

Hello petruccijc -

I first want to say thank you...as you have been fantastic contributor to this forum for years. I was reading and following your posts LONG before joining! A true pleasure to have you join this thread. Your taste for balms - excellent, as always.

Of the list you have - ones that I have tried or currently own and really like are:

Terre d'Hermes - tried a great sample...it's on my list for the Easter Bunny - ;-)
Prada Amber pour Homme (and Intense for me, also excellent)
Michael Kors (I actually mentioned it in one of my follow up threads here as there definitely are fantastic balms - this is one of them)
Burberry Brit - very nice...(London and Beat are both very good too, if you like those scents - true to EDT and rich balms)
Narciso Rodriguez for Him


Cheers,

ericrico

Yes -

Most definitely on my "Want" list...both for the reasons mentioned. As you said - amazing line and all complimentary products!

Cheers!

Fantastic -

I am following your advice and going for Nivea for Men Extra Sensitive (unscented). Nivea just makes great balm that truly moisturizes the skin! I used the scented version for years and just let it dry down (then, splashed a bit of cool water to reduce the scent and get rid of some of the sheen as I would apply it over my entire face, forehead, etc.) By the way, I don't have a lot of hair growth that I commonly shave on my forehead - ;-) - I just like the moisturizing effect.

But, going unscented now and mixing with EDT - first attempt at this is coming up in the next couple of days...I am still in-between on what fragrance will be my first. I want something that I don't have either a lotion or balm counterpart to, so I can blend something to look forward to. I want a deep, cold weather scent as it's raining here.

I also want to do it with a "benchmark" fragrance, so when I share my experience - people can relate. Nothing niche or rare vintage.

Will ponder and get back with results. Regarding application of splash lotions with atomizers - very true. Another reason I search for spray After Shave lotion...rare, but out there.

Again, much thanks my friend, Renato!

Cheers.

Interesting Renato -

Well, this is subjective to the matching balm. I have found some recently that we surprisingly very light in fragrance - so much so, you could not tell they were a match to the EDT! Damn-near neutral and way over-priced! That was one catalyst that got this thread flowing in my mind.

You see, I believe that your idea is actually rather fantastic and not one that I took a slightly different approach to before, but it wasn't perfected. I would shave - rinse very thoroughly with cold water and then apply a combination of Nivea (scented) along with Anthony Logistics for Men (unscented) balms just to the areas I shaved. I would let them sit for a couple of minutes and soak in, but not all the way and then apply (by splash) the after shave lotion of several great fragrances I have. Sure - I would get the burn and the red, splotches myself due to uneven application (ordering more atomizers now!). Usually, a little touch up with the Anthony Logistics Balm and then a few more dabs of A/S Lotion to calm things down and "smooth" out. Application of EDT was not far from that (with some more minor burn).

I like how one, with your approach, can buy a good, unscented and nutrient-rich balm (like Nivea's Extra Sensitive) and be able to mix less or more EDT into the composition (let's be honest - it won't be exact every time and a lot of this depends on the fragrance we are using). I see EDT's that are in the citrus, aquatic, or lighter aromatic realm to have more sprays into the mix. However, a nice strong Woody Spicy, a rich Fougere, Orientals and Incense scents (that's right - there is no reason to limit this) to be a lighter application of fragrance vs. neutral balm.

This will be interesting to do with a wide palate of scents - realistically, we are creating our own "emulsion" here as you know. You well-informed and detailed look at "Balm Endurance" covered a lot of this already - but I want to just bring it up again. Let's do the test to see how well it performs not just as a shaving product, but how long the scent lasts on our skin (back of hand).

I may end up going with a standard that most of us can relate to immediately and has a rather off-putting After Shave Balm on the market - Azzaro Pour Homme (current formulation juice). It is simply nothing like the EDT as I mentioned in the Opening/Original Post of this thread - I went back to another root of this topic. The A/S lotion is good and true-to-form, so this would make common sense to do a home-made emulsion with the EDT and a neutral balm and see what shakes out. I have a process in mind that will show 3 levels of concentration (light, moderate, rich) for the blend. The amount of balm will stay consistent and the EDT will either be 2 shots - light; 3/4 shots - moderate; 5/6 shots - rich. I need your insight here. If the amount of balm is, say, a puddle about one-inch (2.5cm) in diameter, is this realistic to what you see as proper blends. Help me calibrate, please...with current formulation ApH.

I could do trial & error, but I would rather listen to someone who knows the topic well! :-)

Best to you,

ericrico

Thank you maitiu -

Appreciate your input! Yes - the key here is simple and whether or not you want a "wet" look on your face/neck that Nivea will give you or a matte look that others provide. And, even finding an oil-free balm (albeit simple) is your solution to also avoid problems. That is key - shaving is an art...but I am focusing on "the finishing touch of the canvas" here that is focused on scent and how to be incorporate it.

Come back with your review on the Paco Rabanne PH balm...as I find this thread to be truly fascinating and everyone's has offered something! Personally, I am very thankful as I've learned a lot!

Cheers.

Excellent Renato -

Duly noted!

Okay - so, recalibrated my blends here for an emulsion of neutral balm and EDT - "Light" - 1 spray; "Moderate" - 2 sprays; "Rich" - 3 sprays. Drop off after that, so I will start there. It's as easy as one, two, three - and while most days we are "in the grind" and do two, there are days when we will want to dial up or dial down. Perfect - your input on this thread has been awesome!

And, not to overlook your recent experience. You didn't get the "raw meat on your face" look - that is key for me, even with an electric shaver and good foaming pre-shave! I'm telling you, baby-soft skin man. I have to be careful. But your approach - that may be the best and most easy way to go. And, to finish the thought - and just before leaving the house, apply a moderate wear of the matching EDT to places you didn't shave - back of neck, chest, wrists, clothes (for longevity as well), etc.

But, while that is probably a bit more practical - I am going to try the neutral balm/EDT home-made emulsion. At this point, I am just damn curious!

Cheers, my friend!

Hey Renato -

Interesting. I find that the key for me is ultra-clean skin with a good foaming shave gel (with aloe vera as key ingredient) applied to damp skin! I let it dry on my face for about 5 minutes or so. Then, I shave with my electric, but with a lot of cold water. My Norelco was a gift 3 years ago and it is holding up well.

Besides a Trader Joe's Aloe Mint Shaving Foam that I use (cheap and good), they also have a nice Honey Mango Shaving Cream - http://www.amazon.com/Trader-Joes-Ho.../dp/B002URZUZG - take a look.

At about the same time I started using that (it is fantastic for my wife's sensitive legs too, by the way) - I found a great line of products from Alba Botanica. All-organic, paraben free, with a great blend of aloe vera, chamomile and green tea. It also includes jojoba, Vitamin E and other botantical extracts - and the line include several fantastic scents - including coconut lime. It is like a thick gel. Same application as the foaming shave gel, but this doesn't foam. Let it dry and then wet electric razor. My skin is so soft after - it's unbelieveable!

But, with your skin, you found (in a way) the opposite - dry out the skin (and dry shave) versus moisten like crazy and use water - yet both of us use electrics.

It may not apply to me (your method) - but you may have helped some people out a lot, yet again. I offered my rather polarizing approach as it works for me - tons of moisture, including shaving foams and gels! LOL!

Two ends of the spectrum, but whatever works is the key here. And, as men, we all know when it ISN'T working - because our faces are cut up, raw and we look like we got in a bar fight in our own bathroom! ;-)

Cheers, my friend!

Hey Surfacing -

Good to hear from you, my friend. I happen to really like Lanvin Arpege Pour Homme and have the Balm (very nice indeed - but not loud in scent). The EDT is very good in my opinion and they layer well. Next time I use, I am shooting at least 1-2 shots of EDT into the after shave balm to enhance application and longevity as Arpege Pour Homme needs to be applied to clothes to get the notes I like (as a fragrance).

Definitely try Burberry Brit for Men - it is very good. I also like The Beat which has that spicy, freshly ground-pepper note in the balm. It goes very well with the EDT as well. Stronger in scent than Arpege Pour Homme as a direct comparison.

And, I don't wear Nicole Miller...although I may have dated a girl in high school with that name. ;-)

Cheers, my friend.

Hey Renato -

Very interesting. I used to have an old one I swore by - not to be used wet, but it died.

The rotating heads (which don't cut as good) are what got me into wet shaving...which really helps me.

I now cannot go back. Love the feel of a nice pre-shave wash, foaming gel/shaving cream and a wet electric. Smooth as silk.

Thank you for sharing everything!

Cheers!

**Update** - while Basenotes was hacked by some sick people who should be prosecuted, I was venturing forth with making several home-made emulsion of EDT and a well made unscented After Shave balm.

After trying Nivea - I found it to be too runny for what I wanted. I shopped around and also pulled out a nice tube of Anthony Logistics for Men Shave Cream. Excellent product - although a bit pricey. It worked very good though. I found another that, for the price is terrific...Everyman Jack Face Lotion (fragrance free) with Sun Protection (SPF 15) - excellent ingredients and no parabens, no sodium lauryl sulfate, no phthalates, no dyes and no oils (and not tested on animals - except me in the last several days with different fragrances! ;-) - only $6 for a 95ml tube!

It is a non-greasy and richer lotion than Nivea, but with the EDT - it emulsifies really well and leaves a nice sheen on your face. First fragrance - 3 full sprays, Azzaro Pour Homme (current formulation) - very good! The scent held for a long time and it really warmed well. After the balm soaked in, I applied a few more squirts to the neck and wrists (and a couple to the shirt) - a really good wearing of Azzaro Pour Homme!

Next, let's change things up and go to something dark and green - Tsar! I wanted to see how this would even be. It turned out very good, indeed. I also added a few more sprays. Very nice and smooth. 2 sprays initially. Added a bit more cream with an additional spray. The notes really stood out - the balm kept the green and herbal notes more alive. Dry down came later in the wear on the neck.

Next - Gucci Pour Homme! Excellent. Best yet. After fresh shave - a mixture of Anthony Logistics and Everyman Jack combined with 4 sprays of Gucci Pour Homme. Incense, deep wood notes, rich pepper - stayed on my skin all day. Longevity, projection, and glow. I am extremely impressed and will always wear Gucci Pour Homme with an unscented, quality balm from now on. It really stood out and I looked so fresh - many, many compliments today...from my wife and at least a half-dozen attractive women! Cashmere sweater, designer jeans, Hugo boss black buckle shoes and a beautiful long coat with my hair combed back. "Classic, handsome and elegant" were the nice words I received. Then, they smelled me - I have women running around trying to find Gucci Pour Homme for their man - good luck to them all. But, it's how you wear it. This is not a casual scent for dressed-down attire.

I am doing further interesting emulsions (3 sprays is the sweet spot for most fragrances and I like to apply a few shots after it dries into my skin)...over the weekend and early next week - including some marquis names.

A few I am considering - Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (Vintage), Zino Davidoff (Vintage/Current EDT blend - 2 of each), and Cool Water (Script Logo, Old juice) to see how this works with a classic fresh scent.

This thread has changed how I will wear fragrance and groom - including adding a nice moisturizing balm with sun protection to my face and neck.

Any suggestions from anyone - I am staying away from niche, but let me know if you have an idea...maybe a Vetiver?

Cheers,

ericrico

Very good point Renato -

I found that with Azzaro & Tsar (which have rather big top notes) that I got a nice rich and well-scented emulsion. Adding the touch more balm with one more spray of Tsar got the mix I was looking for. So, I'm definitely looking at this from an Australian/US-perspective - more fragrance! I have been unhappy with the balms currently on the market and will be adding a couple of shots of EDT to enrich the After Shave Balms I already have. This "starting from scratch" approach has been pure experimentation. I am finding something that I really like here. Went to sleep (crashed pretty hard last night with the Gucci Pour Homme emulsion on me - it is still a nice skin scent on my neck. I washed my face this morning, trying to leave it there - it stayed. A very faint skin scent on my inner wrists is all that is left, so the emulsion did indeed offer more longevity over night (a sheer test of time).

The Gucci Pour Homme (while so deep, rich and intoxicatingly beautiful with the incense & wood) needed more fragrance I felt. Since it is a darker composition and there is no bright anise or green notes (like Azzaro & Tsar), it was an approach to create something different. This will be interesting with fragrances with citrus top notes (or bright florals) to see how they evolve comparatively.

Good perspective, Renato. And interesting way of using the shower gel to preserve the fragrance. Sounds like a good technique. And, I have a rather large collection of shower gels that match or came in gift sets! Some are very fragrant and match the EDT well...

Cheers,

Eric

Hey Slayerized -

Another good point. I took caution (to some degree) in that the emulsion is only applied generously to facial hairline and neck - only lightly elsewhere (cheeks and a touch to my forehead). I also used a lot cold water and soap after shaving to seal the pores as much as possible. Plus, the after shave balms I used really have a great calming effect (both Everyman Jack and Anthony Logistics) - fantastic soothing effects. Puts out flames on my face - both of them, very well!

But, good point - the EDT could cause redness and blotches if applied to the face. I will keep the application on the neck and just on the beard line. One must be careful. Don't worry - I am wearing my safety goggles in my chemistry lab, my friend!!! ;-)

Cheers!

Eric

Thank you Renato -

Yes - I found that while Nivea is fantastic nourishment for my skin and what I have used over the years to protect my skin, it is simply to thin and liquid. I went for something a bit thicker, when hit with the EDT has the same approx. feel of Nivea. I tried Nivea with a few sprays of EDT and it was running down my face. Talk about a wet look - I had to towel off.

Any way - funny you say that about Calvin Klein. I just picked up (after testing) a nice set of 100ml Escape for Men (one of the very few CK offerings that I like and still smells good to me) and it came with a huge 200ml After-Shave balm that had a nice light lotion vibe. I found the scent, while a little light, to be nice and refreshing. I have not done a full-wear, but I can always spray a couple of shots into the balm if I feel the need or apply balm and very soon after (as it is drying into my skin, hit the EDT). Escape, while not the most popular scent from Calvin Klein, was one that I wore back in the day - so it's a throwback for me nice notes. The set was so cheap, it was a no brainer ($40 total for the full-size EDT and huge A/S balm!) It will be very nice in the warm weather ahead.

Grant's posting is very insightful - thanks to him. I will try this next time in the shower. I have some shower gels that are so richly perfumed that all you need is a couple of shots of fragrance (or a light splash of after shave) when you are out of the shower and they just breathe on your whole body. Others, it is gone after you towel off except for just a very faint trace (although it is nice while in the shower). I will be finishing off with some cold water and come out shivering - LOL! ;-) In summer, I take cool showers anyways, but I will have to warm up the water a bit and open my pores before doing the body wash to get the scent on me - I'm already reverse-thinking this for hot weather.

Yes - anyone here who love Gucci PH balm...it is a must. Slayerized (giving props here) told me that he applied some recently as scent like this to get more longevity. I took it a step further with actually a fresh shave and a generous emulsion (4 full sprays mixed with enough neutral balm to cover your beardline and neck. I even reapplied a touch up later in the day as I liked the feeling and radiance so much (after washing my face late in the afternoon). It created such a fantastic aura. Also, to give Gucci Pour Homme its fair credit (and get the full scent), one must wear a black shirt or sweater (or an easier solution - an undershirt you don't mind stains) and apply a few shots to clothing. With the emulsion, application to clothes and few shots other places (wrists, back of hands, back of neck) - I had an amazing full-wear going yesterday. Divine juice it is!

Cheers.

Eric

Brilliant stuff, _Enigma_!

I have two tubes of it sitting in my drawer. Eau de Baux and Cade also offer something truly special. Top of the line After Shave balms that perfectly compliment the EDTs!

Cheers,

Eric

Not that L'Occitane has a Cade EDT - which they really should offer. It would be a fantastic seller! On a tangent a bit - the body washes are also incredible for all L'Occitane Men's offerings! A bit pricey, but remarkable in scent. Following Renato's (originally Grant's) advice, they will be at the top of my list to try.

But, L'Occitan and Eau de Baux are wonderful...

I wanted to clarify.

Cheers,

ericrico