I sniffed all four today, two on paper, two on skin:Ombre de Hyacinth
- wore on skin, see my review here
- wore on skin.
I have so say I absolutely love this. I think how you feel about this will largely depend on how you feel about lillies, as it's almost a monolithic soliflore ode to an oriental lilly.
To my nose, this is a mid-point between the old formula of SL's Tubereuse Criminelle, PG's Louange Profanes, and most of all, Penhaglion's Lilly & Spice. But where as the latter is very mild, rather underpowered, and brief, this is far more fleshed out.
It starts out rather where Tubereuse Criminelle used to end: creamy-frosty vanilla, floral sweetness, musk, and and a hint of that salicylate chill. Then, in the heart, it veers almost a little sweet for me, a tuberose-bubblegum thing going on, but the distinct spice makes manageable. Finally after about an hour in it turns to a perfect light-hearted lilly fragrance, perfect enough that I kept forgetting it was on and looked for where the lillies were in the room.
I want this. I want this now
, as I can already see discontinuation lies ahead.Jonquil de Nuit
- smelled on card.
This was merely pleasant. I wanted a jonquil, and this isn't it. There seems to be a hoard of shampoo sambac jasmines these days ( their rightful queen in my view is Love & Tears ), and this isn't really the best example. Smells a lot like J'Adore Absolu to my nose.
I do not get Velvet Gardenia in this at all
. They're as far apart as Katy Perry is from Kraftwerk.Cafe Rose
- smelled on card.
Move along people: coffee and rose is a great idea, and this isn't it.
That being said, it's one of the more pleasant variations of the rose-oud combo I've smelled. Not as nice as the Kilian, much nicer than most Montales.
Like the previous, eminently wearable, but arguably unnecessary if you have some other variant.- - - Updated - - -
As an aside, I don't like the bottles. Funny that my favorite Ford scent comes in my least-favorite Ford bottle! The purple label cheapens the whole aesthetic for a reason I can't quite put my finger on.
Also, I've never seen a more bored
sales assistant. I went up to the counter and said "Oh, I was waiting for these!" and she looks up from her magazine and says "Oh, you can try them if you want..."
Maybe it's because I work in sales myself, but I
feel I could have sold me Lys Fume!