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Aedes de Venustas EDP

post #1 of 42
Thread Starter 
Sampling this on my arm now. What a strange creature. I get a rounded swell of ripe green fruit (like kiwi or sour apple) and yellow fruit (pineapple?) against a backdrop of faintly smoky dry woods. As it simmers, the ripeness of the fruit diminishes and becomes more celery-like. While the room fills up with incense smoke, a vetiver and a pale floral are having a conversation just beyond ear's reach.


A totally over-reductive summary of the topnotes.

The distinguishing feature is the amped-up green fruit (I guess what they are calling rhubarb). The topnotes have the same relentless hypersmell that characterizes many of the Heeley scents; but thankfully it becomes more natural smelling in the drydown. The incense is done very nicely and gives the effect of carrying the whole thing skyward, even as it eventually dominates the scene.

I'm not quite sure where I stand with this one. I like the novelty of the topnotes even though they flirt with being too synthetic. The part I'm struggling with is how the scent is constructed in the drydown. As the fruit turns vegetal, the celery-like component is neither at odds with the smoky backdrop nor sufficiently connected to it to be interesting. It feels a bit like I've sprayed one scent on top of another. Perhaps this is what they mean in their press by "baroque".

Only an hour into it at this point, so I'll keep updating.

After four hours: What has dried down is full of prettiness--beyond what my limited nose can identify and describe. There is some real masterful stuff happening in the basenotes. But the two central characters (the green/vegetal note and the incense) are standing on the main stage, no longer on speaking terms. It lacks the fun of a wild juxtaposition or the beauty of a romantic blending. They're just sullen and won't acknowledge each other. Though better integrated toward the end, the final impression i get is one of awkwardness and disjoint notes. Perhaps too many ideas for one scent?
post #2 of 42
Sounds interesting.
post #3 of 42
Question: is this the one that L'Artisan did for Aedes?
post #4 of 42
Very intrigued, though it sounds like it might be too sweet/fruity for my taste.

One concern I have is: was it Aedes' plan to phase out the OLD AdV EdP (the one L'Artisan did for them) in favor of this one, or are they keeping both? Hard to guess, since they named them both the same (gee thanks, Aedes) No idea if anyone here can address that, but I'm putting it out there.

If they are phasing out the L'Artisan original, I'm gonna hafta stock up, because that's my absolute favorite incense frag.
post #5 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by icanzapyou View Post

Question: is this the one that L'Artisan did for Aedes?

No. The L'Artisan one (also done by Duchaufour) comes in the familiar gold-capped, 7-faceted L'Artisan bottle, but with frosted dark purple glass (very pretty)...and the fragrance is a moderately sweet incense with topnotes of rose and coffee.

AdV EdP de L'Artisan:


The new one:
post #6 of 42
Thread Starter 
The original AdV fragrance by L'Artisan is still in their store, but I have no idea what the plans are for it. I'll ask next time I'm in.
post #7 of 42
Thanks, Brian...though I may have to call them myself. The thought of one of my top favorites being replaced is causing me more than a little anxiety!
post #8 of 42
Thread Starter 
After several hours now, this frag isn't really cohering for me. What has dried down is full of prettiness--beyond what my limited nose can identify and describe. There is some real masterful stuff happening in the basenotes. But the two central characters (the green/vegetal note and the incense) are standing on the main stage, no longer on speaking terms. It lacks the fun of a wild juxtaposition or the beauty of a romantic blending. They're just sullen and won't acknowledge each other. Though better integrated toward the end, the final impression i get is one of awkwardness and disjoint notes. Perhaps too many ideas for one scent?
post #9 of 42
Thread Starter 
"the heavy dark resinous incense and chypre accord is largely deceasing..."

Indeed.

post #10 of 42
Thanks for your input Brian. I was all excited to try this when I got the newsletter from Aedes, but now I see they've released the final pyramid with apple, red berries, and tomato leaf and can safely write it off. Enjoy your weekend.
post #11 of 42
Thanks for your review, Brian.

Their new eponymously named fragrance, is also going to be available at Barneys, as opposed to their first creation, which is an Aedes boutique exclusive.

It's the next step in branding the Aedes name.

I'll give it a try in next weeks, however I'm not a big fan of rhubarb and green apple notes.
post #12 of 42
Thread Starter 
It is definitely unusual. I would encourage everyone to try it for themselves. I'm going to revisit it in a few weeks and see if I feel any differently.

Kevin, how do you pronounce the name of the store? In my head, I say EYE-uh-deez, but I'm thinking it's probably more like Hades without the H.
post #13 of 42
I friggin' love the smell of rhubarb so I was really psyched to smell this, but your comments seemed to have brought me down to earth a bit. Which is cool - this stuff is spendy, isn't it?

Questions:

How the hell do you spray it?
Where does the juice come out of?
How much juice (# of sprays) did you apply Brian?
Is it still cold in NY or has it warmed up (sometimes this affects how a scent wears)?
Am I the only one who think that ad copy sounds totally ridiculous? Do they think we're stupid and we don't know what a chypre is - this scent has no notes of a chypre (bergamot, labdanum, oakmoss), so the 'chypre accord' they're speaking about is nonexistent.
post #14 of 42
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

I friggin' love the smell of rhubarb so I was really psyched to smell this, but your comments seemed to have brought me down to earth a bit. Which is cool - this stuff is spendy, isn't it?

Questions:

How the hell do you spray it?
Where does the juice come out of?
How much juice (# of sprays) did you apply Brian?
Is it still cold in NY or has it warmed up (sometimes this affects how a scent wears)?
Am I the only one who think that ad copy sounds totally ridiculous? Do they think we're stupid and we don't know what a chypre is - this scent has no notes of a chypre (bergamot, labdanum, oakmoss), so the 'chypre accord' they're speaking about is nonexistent.

Your first two questions I cannot answer because they decanted a sample for me into a vial. I applied pretty generously from the vial, probably the equivalent of two sprays.

(If I had to guess on the first two questions, I'd say they whole circular knob thing on top probably pulls off to reveal a standard atomizer on the top of the bottle.)

it was not particularly warm yesterday--high 50s. That's actually a good question because I'm having trouble imagining what kind of weather this would be good in. The incense base would suggest to me colder weather; but the huge fruit-punch opening would suggest warm. *shrug*

The ad copy is hilarious. In my head, I've been secretly casting a Christopher Guest film about perfumery, and Aedes and its owners are right in there along with Victoria Christian. I do think their store is charming in an old school NY don't-make-em-like-that-anymore kind of way. But the over-the-top frillery doesn't translate very well to an online presence.
post #15 of 42
Ah, so that 'nautical-clasp-lever' thing lifts off...yeah, that makes sense.

Duchaufour scents are shapeshifters. I intensely hated Havana Vanille the first time I smelled it at Bendels. I mean I actually wanted to go to the restroom and wash it off, but I didn't want to disappoint the SA who actually let me smell it before it was released. And then about 6 months afterwards something clicked, and I loved it! Really loved it. So, I am always really cautious when I approach a Duchafour scent the first time because sometimes I love it and then hate it (or vice versa).

Aedes - well, when I was first new to BN and perfumes I thoroughly enjoyed stepping into that bejewelled, peacocked, curtained room. But now that most of their lines are easily smelled elsewhere, it makes it hard to want to travel all the way there just to be made to feel a bit uncomfortable by the owners and their stiff customer service. Meanwhile you can go over to MiN and they're literally falling over themselves to help you, offer you water/tea/champagne, engage with you, etc. If I end up liking this new scent (I also liked the L'Artisan one), it won't have anything to do with the warm fuzzy feeling that I get when I press that doorbell and get buzzed into that store, because there is no warm fuzzy feeling.
post #16 of 42
Thread Starter 
I am actually going to defend them on one front: I stand around in that store leisurely spraying everything in sight (and they stock A LOT of niche), and nobody ever bothers me. I'm usually there on weekdays over my lunch hour, and Miguel is almost always at the counter. He is lovely and generous and hands-off, which is EXACTLY what I want from customer service in a store.

I am of course terrified that someday I'm going to step on one of the dogs.
post #17 of 42
I'm so glad someone else noticed the celery, I'm not hallucinating! I think this is an interesting green fragrance, the drydown, less so. The celery note sometimes bombards, sometimes disappears. It is surely NOT a chypre'. Good grief. I'm enjoying it, simply because there aren't many rhubarbs out ther and it's a note I enjoy. But I don't like celery, I agree all the parts of this fragrance aren't on speaking terms....
post #18 of 42
Thread Starter 
i actually love celery in fragrances, but I just couldn't quite escape that it felt like a mish-mash. (Very realistic portrayal however of how I smell when I walk out of their store--having sprayed too many things on!) I am going to give it a second wearing soon though.

When Duchaufour says he had to construct this one strangely, I wonder if he was referring to the increasingly vegetal series of green notes (apple --> rhubarb --> celery) as it dries down. I can appreciate that some attempt was made to integrate it in the end, but on my skin, it just never came together.
post #19 of 42
Wasn't a fan of the Aedes/L'Artisan scent but their bottles are beautiful. The heavy brass flip overcap mechanism on this new bottle is beautiful with that intricate coat of arms engraving. I appreciate that kind of attention to detail. I'd like to try this new one. I'm a huge fan of Chypre Rouge and hoping this one shares some similarities.
post #20 of 42
It's fantastic stuff - one of the best releases this year IMO. I get a lot of tomato leaf and something akin to orange/tangerine in the opening, and then a wonderful incensy drydown.

I highly recommend trying it.
post #21 of 42
Ooh tomato leaf and I are not always friends, this one still intrigues me nonetheless.
post #22 of 42
Thread Starter 
It is intriguing. Everyone should try it. I look forward to giving it a second chance, but I'm pretty sure we're not gonna be friends.
post #23 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post

Sampling this on my arm now. What a strange creature. I get a rounded swell of ripe green fruit (like kiwi or sour apple) and yellow fruit (pineapple?) against a backdrop of faintly smoky dry woods. As it simmers, the ripeness of the fruit diminishes and becomes more celery-like. While the room fills up with incense smoke, a vetiver and a pale floral are having a conversation just beyond ear's reach.


A totally over-reductive summary of the topnotes.

The distinguishing feature is the amped-up green fruit (I guess what they are calling rhubarb). The topnotes have the same relentless hypersmell that characterizes many of the Heeley scents; but thankfully it becomes more natural smelling in the drydown. The incense is done very nicely and gives the effect of carrying the whole thing skyward, even as it eventually dominates the scene.

I'm not quite sure where I stand with this one. I like the novelty of the topnotes even though they flirt with being too synthetic. The part I'm struggling with is how the scent is constructed in the drydown. As the fruit turns vegetal, the celery-like component is neither at odds with the smoky backdrop nor sufficiently connected to it to be interesting. It feels a bit like I've sprayed one scent on top of another. Perhaps this is what they mean in their press by "baroque".

Only an hour into it at this point, so I'll keep updating.

After four hours: What has dried down is full of prettiness--beyond what my limited nose can identify and describe. There is some real masterful stuff happening in the basenotes. But the two central characters (the green/vegetal note and the incense) are standing on the main stage, no longer on speaking terms. It lacks the fun of a wild juxtaposition or the beauty of a romantic blending. They're just sullen and won't acknowledge each other. Though better integrated toward the end, the final impression i get is one of awkwardness and disjoint notes. Perhaps too many ideas for one scent?

please add how generous you were with your description
post #24 of 42
Brian, reading your initial assessment of this had me thinking of another scent I'd love to hear your take on - Amouage's Jubilation 25 (the women's). It too can come across as a very complex, baroque composition that feels like 2 (or more) scent that have been combined; forcefully or intricately, I'm not sure. The impression varies from day to day. When it all works, it comes across as a masterpiece to me. When it doesn't - it can get ugly. (J25 also shares a citrus/incense element, a green element (tarragon and green vetiver/patch), and florals and aldehydes and a lot of myrrh).

Occasionally I get a celery element in J25, too, and I know others have commented on such in reviews across the net as well.

I'm going to have to check out this new Aedes scent, as I tend to love scents that are full of counterpoint and are just nigh impossible to ever fully understand. Thanks for the wonderful review!
post #25 of 42
Thought I'd just resurrect this thread and see if anyone else has had any experience with this perfume, I'm really interested in it, and it's a pricey blind buy an all, but its notes and descriptions do intrigue me a lot...
post #26 of 42
I just got a sample after a rapid paper test which resulted enough successful to make me want to go deeper...Will give it a proper test in the next few days but, so far, this one definitely picked up my interest.
post #27 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfarom View Post

I just got a sample after a rapid paper test which resulted enough successful to make me want to go deeper...Will give it a proper test in the next few days but, so far, this one definitely picked up my interest.


I would be glad to know what you think about it after a proper testing.
post #28 of 42
Me too. Full critical review, please!

I'm sort of saving up for a bottle, just in case it's amazing.

If not, it'll be a back-up bottle of the old L'Artisan one, which I love a lot. I'm down to about 30% of my bottle.
post #29 of 42
I have it and like it. Not wearing it right now to really describe in detail... but I find it quite green and tart. The opening is... uhh... different in a really cool way (having never sensed the full assault of rhubarb). I remember reading some marketing text on it that linked it to the smell of the Aedes de Venustas store, which I have never visited, but would nonetheless be shocked if any PLACE smelled like this. It is not a warm cozy scent - bracing, bright, crisp. I can imagine what Brian means by the un-mixing dichotomy of wearing two unrelated scents layered. The citric rhubarb and incense are clearly distinct. As for evolution, this juice is not as much a linear progression as a power struggle where the rhubarb always wins for those more than 50 cm from your skin (the base is more of a skin scent).
post #30 of 42
That's very interesting, thanks for the info! As a matter of interest, what kind of incense base is it, like an Olibanum-type or more of a soft Champaca/Sandalwood-type?
post #31 of 42
I've finally gave it a full wear...here are my thoughts....

Typical Duchafour. Transparent and clean incense with slightly sweetish fruity undertones. Minimalistic, very modern, pleasant...and kind of trendy (I'm afraid not in a good way though). The opening is very nice with fresh cut green notes, subtle florals a tad of exoticism...it evolves into the typical Duchafour's incense base we all experienced too many times...it could easily be a new LeLabo called Rhubarb 8. A perfect "contemporary" fragrance which I seriously doubt it will leave a trace of any sort.

Nice but not worthy the hefty price tag at all...
post #32 of 42
Are we talking about that sour/incense/cider accord that he did for Dzonghka, Timbuktu and numerous Eau d'Italie's alfarom?
post #33 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Are we talking about that sour/incense/cider accord that he did for Dzonghka, Timbuktu and numerous Eau d'Italie's alfarom?

Yep. A tad sweeter than the once you mentioned but still that one (expecially the Eau De Italie). Radiant, pleasant, woody, a tad synthetic...The fragrance smells nice but I'm afraid it's all about the top notes. It's niche with the designer concept...
post #34 of 42
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post

Brian, reading your initial assessment of this had me thinking of another scent I'd love to hear your take on - Amouage's Jubilation 25 (the women's). It too can come across as a very complex, baroque composition that feels like 2 (or more) scent that have been combined; forcefully or intricately, I'm not sure. The impression varies from day to day. When it all works, it comes across as a masterpiece to me. When it doesn't - it can get ugly. (J25 also shares a citrus/incense element, a green element (tarragon and green vetiver/patch), and florals and aldehydes and a lot of myrrh).

Occasionally I get a celery element in J25, too, and I know others have commented on such in reviews across the net as well.

I'm going to have to check out this new Aedes scent, as I tend to love scents that are full of counterpoint and are just nigh impossible to ever fully understand. Thanks for the wonderful review!

I have so far only sniffed J25 from the bottle after your recommendation, and I found it really enticing. I have to track down a sample of this.
post #35 of 42
For a while I was very interested in this, I'm slowly being steered away. I'm ok with that.
post #36 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by starshipvelcro View Post

For a while I was very interested in this, I'm slowly being steered away. I'm ok with that.

I dont know how much familiarity you have with Duchafour's fragrances but he offered much more interesting stuff in the past. This is not to say that AdV is not attention worthy but it's bascially like a good 23rd record from a band which already released 10 stunning ones...all the brilliant elements are there but they, somewhat, don't result as fresh and novel as they used to be in the past...

That said, the top and middle phase are really beatiful if you like modern stuff...
post #37 of 42
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by starshipvelcro View Post

For a while I was very interested in this, I'm slowly being steered away. I'm ok with that.

If you have Jub XXV, IMO, you have a much better integrated, coherent fruit+incense Duchaufour than AdV EDP.
post #38 of 42
sadly, never had the pleasure of experiencing any fragrances from this house.
post #39 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post

If you have Jub XXV, IMO, you have a much better integrated, coherent fruit+incense Duchaufour than AdV EDP.

I've gotten confused--Are you comparing JXXV to the AdV EdP in the purple L'Artisan bottle, or the new one with (annoyingly) the same name in the pink glass cube? I still haven't smelled the new one.

Damned Aedes! How idiotic is it to have two different perfumes with the exact same name?!

Quote:
Originally Posted by senore01 View Post

sadly, never had the pleasure of experiencing any fragrances from this house.

They're not a 'house', per se; they are a niche retailer (like LuckyScent) that has two commissioned exclusives, both by Duchaufour, and one of those is through L'Artisan.

If you are in fact in NYC, then their boutique is LOCAL to you!
They're at 9 Christopher St., between 6th and 7th Ave.
Beautiful shop, mindblowing selection, but not the friendliest staff in the world.
Still worth a visit.
post #40 of 42
Thread Starter 
I was referring to the annoyingly named one in the pink/purple cube.

Quote:
Originally Posted by andylama View Post

I've gotten confused--Are you comparing JXXV to the AdV EdP in the purple L'Artisan bottle, or the new one with (annoyingly) the same name in the pink glass cube? I still haven't smelled the new one.

Damned Aedes! How idiotic is it to have two different perfumes with the exact same name?!



They're not a 'house', per se; they are a niche retailer (like LuckyScent) that has two commissioned exclusives, both by Duchaufour, and one of those is through L'Artisan.

If you are in fact in NYC, then their boutique is LOCAL to you!
They're at 9 Christopher St., between 6th and 7th Ave.
Beautiful shop, mindblowing selection, but not the friendliest staff in the world.
Still worth a visit.

You should also note that the store is designed to be navigated with butterfly wings and dandelion plumes. (I'm so proud of myself for not saying fairy wings!) God forbid you be a six foot tall dude with size eleven feet and a winter coat because they have half the niche fragrances ever made and they are stacked one on top of another on top of another on top of a bow leg antique table on top of a shitsu. And if you so much as look wrong at that dog, some hand blown glass art blob will be knocked out of orbit, the Lutens export line will go down like dominoes, the peacock will drown in Chergui, and the black Voodoo Rose candle will fall from its perch and steamroll you out of that store like Indiana Jones from a tomb.
post #41 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post

I was referring to the annoyingly named one in the pink/purple cube.



You should also note that the store is designed to be navigated with butterfly wings and dandelion plumes. (I'm so proud of myself for not saying fairy wings!) God forbid you be a six foot tall dude with size eleven feet and a winter coat because they have half the niche fragrances ever made and they are stacked one on top of another on top of another on top of a bow leg antique table on top of a shitsu. And if you so much as look wrong at that dog, some hand blown glass art blob will be knocked out of orbit, the Lutens export line will go down like dominoes, the peacock will drown in Chergui, and the black Voodoo Rose candle will fall from its perch and steamroll you out of that store like Indiana Jones from a tomb.

Lol! I guess on my next trip up to the city in the fall, I'll have to send my GF in to do the shopping, since I am 6'2" with size 12.5 feet, it may be a disaster. Possibly MIM, Barney's and Bergdorf may be better Suited for my big feet.
post #42 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post

You should also note that the store is designed to be navigated with butterfly wings and dandelion plumes. (I'm so proud of myself for not saying fairy wings!) God forbid you be a six foot tall dude with size eleven feet and a winter coat because they have half the niche fragrances ever made and they are stacked one on top of another on top of another on top of a bow leg antique table on top of a shitsu. And if you so much as look wrong at that dog, some hand blown glass art blob will be knocked out of orbit, the Lutens export line will go down like dominoes, the peacock will drown in Chergui, and the black Voodoo Rose candle will fall from its perch and steamroll you out of that store like Indiana Jones from a tomb.

OMG, that was awesome! Thanks for the laugh, Brian. I needed it.
It is a pretty boutique, but not a comfortable or practical one.
When I was there, I don't think the elf behind the counter looked up from his iPhone even once.
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