Blind Buy: Caron's Third Man

I blind bought it and am not crazy about it. It's a bit too soft and floral for my taste. I hope you enjoy it, though!

A beautiful fragrance that is a classic, but not everybody can pull it off in my view. It can be powdery and too floral for some. I personally love it.

Great choice. Perhaps not the easiest fragrance to like for some people though.

Agree. Very good choice. I suspect you're going to be quite pleased.

I enjoy it. Its not an expensive blind at least and will be easy to get rid of.

It's funny, I was just about to warn you about this one, as I had also blind-bought a full bottle of this some months ago, gave it a few tests, and promptly put it in the back of my collection. I just put a little on the back of my hand to remember what I disliked about it, and... well, now I'm having second thoughts. What I'm getting right now is a very well-done lavender and some 'floral' with a bit of spice and wood beneath. It's actually quite pleasant the more I sniff it. I will say this one is definitely in the "old school" category- it definitely smells "dated" compared to our "modern" offerings, but it really is well-executed. I'd probably use this for a night in when I can enjoy this scent while reading a book, watching a movie, or whatever activity you like to do when you're by yourself :P I'd reach for something else for a night out on the town.

As long as you're into old-school floral fougere, you won't be disappointed...

I see you live in New Orleans (The Big Easy)...with Spring coming, I think you will like it.

Looking at your wardrobe, which tells us what you already have (and how you feel), I see that you are not one to shy away from classics (Guerlain). Caron The Third Man is a fresh, floral and overall beautiful fragrance with a classic appeal. Here is a review I wrote on it recently - which is not here on BN:

"After a few full wearings and also "sample" wearings (a few sprays to get the notes, composition, etc.) - Caron's Le 3' Homme (Third Man) continually shows what a fantastic fragrance it is. Personally, I don't get anything cloying or unnaturally sweet. The top citrus blends seamlessly into the heart of gorgeous, "spiced" florals - a spring bouquet that consists of a smooth and full lavender and jasmine mixed with a great coriander accord and clove blended in (which could be where some reviewers are getting the slightly burnt/smoky note - I don't). This segues beautifully into a touch of coumarin (tonka bean) dusting the base, which is a combination of light vetiver and a nice green moss (not heavy oakmoss). The florals linger wonderfully and that is what makes this composition work so well...the longevity of the heart.

No candied lemons on top for me and while it is a touch powdery - there is nothing wrong with that feel in a fresh masculine floral with good spice. Apply a bit more, I find, and the notes integrate better. I feel that while Caron Pour Une Homme is a classic (and will always be in my collection), there is something unique and exceptional about this fragrance. This is wearable year-round, but Spring is perfect (as well as summer evenings) and this is a scent that should be worn with nice attire. Sophisticated and refined. 8.5/10."

This is about as good a masculine floral you can buy - especially for the price. Good luck and enjoy.

Cheers,

ericrico

You won't be disappointed. It is a fresh, clean scent.

It is, however, as Alfarom mentioned, an old-school fougere, so don't expect an aquatic.

I blind bought it too. It was the tamest of the Caron's I bought. I think it okay, but don't understand why so many think it really good.
Regards,
Renato

meh....

Vintage is quite different. The new one, which I assume you bought, has a strong citrus/lemon and herbal quality, but it's also quite sweet. Beyond that it's a real "blob," though not necessarily in a bad way. However, I would only wear it in cold weather, and even then just one spray. It's more of a frag for getting noticed because there isn't enough note separation for the aficionado, IMO, though I do like variety and so I like having some of it around for that purpose. On most days, though, I want better note separation. Otherwise, there's nothing "wrong" with it.

I think Caron is a great house and I have loved all their male fragrances that I have tried. All fragrances wear lightly on me though.

Bigsly has a good point as I have had Vintage as well. It's superb!

The new formulation, for the price, is actually a very, very good composition on me. The house of Caron makes fantastic, well-integrated fragrances that have changed slightly over time, but the quality has always remained very high (especially for the amount you pay).

I wore it the other night after a warm shower - it was cold and rainy outside. Not your typical choice, but there is a comfortable sense about this smell and I wanted to just simply enjoy Le3me Homme (The Third Man). One spray, to me, is not how I like to apply either this scent (or Caron Pour Un Homme) - that is where we differ. Personally, I feel fragrance shows itself more with a liberal application. I apply a "gentlemanly bouquet" that holds a nice, long time (and I actually get much better notes out of) with about 6-8+ full sprays. I even touched up about an hour in with 2-3 more sprays on pulse points.

It was simply radiant and showed a fantastic spicy floral and herbal heart with a great, warm base of moss, amber and a nice touch of vetiver.

Enjoy!

Cheers,

ericrico

A very nice scent.....I can't wait to hear what You think about this classic!!!
Gary

If I apply more, ericrico, I will soon be in the bathroom vomiting, unfortunately.

Go easy on the trigger, Bigsly.

And, remind me not to send you a huge bouquet of flowers and green herbal sprigs to you for your birthday. :-)

I know you are a true "Base Note" lover...that is what makes this forum so great - it is all subjective. I, personally, feel that top and middle notes are the essence of beauty in The Third Man (with a very nice dry down). I prefer to refresh just to get those top and heart notes...

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and in our case, in our noses!

Cheers,

Eric

The modern juice doesn't meld with my skin like the old one does. Not my favorite fragrance in its category (Ma Griffe please).

The way it works for me with vintage frags is that after the top notes largely dissipate, there is a kind of particulate quality and I can distinguish many if not most of the notes. That is true of vintage Third Man but not the new one. The new one is mostly a "blob" but it is saved by a lemony/herbal element that never seems to dissipate much. This sticks out of the ambery/vanillic-oriented blob, almost like it coats it. I have a feeling that some people have skin chemistry that breaks up the blob and makes it much more wearable. Spraying more would only make the blob worse for me !

This. I love how it smells about half an hour after application - rich and herbal with hints of vanilla and very nice lavender note.

Third man is a wonderful fragrance IMO. I find it very beautiful. No doubt not everyone will love it but wearing this, if it suits your chemistry, you'll stand out in a crowd in a good way.

I only have the vintage which is one of my all time favorite fragrances. I've been toying with the idea of buying a bottle of the newer formulation to compare. This isn't a fragrance for everyone, but given your statement about not being a fan of aquatics and modern fresh scents, I think you should really like this. Enjoy.

Baldini -

Perfect example of how this fragrance is also appreciated by myself. Pure, olfactory pleasure...but it is something to also wear in the park on a sunny day or going to the store. Never offensive and delightful.

I am even more daring and also have worn it to events and find great confidence as it projects. Focused, liberal application is key!

Very good insight - cheers,

ericrico

Agreed. It is definetely a "retro" or a thowback fragrance when it was released. At least it seems to me. This does not smell like a 1980s release. But it does harken back to a totally different era. I really admire this fragrance.

I think of it as downright Victorian in its old-school-ness.

Quite good though, and for the (cheap) price, you can hardly go wrong.
Heck, we've probably all spent much more to get much less.

Very nice "can't go wrong with it" aromatic fougere. Good choice!

Regards, Odor.

Interestingly, I didn't get a sense of this being a fougere in either formulation. If you are thinking Montana Parfum d'Homme, Lomani, Azzaro Pour Homme type fougere accords, that's not present in Third Man. Perhaps it is more like the muted fougere accord in frags like Polo Double Black, but to me that's what they should be called (muted fougere accords) and the frag itself should not be described as a fougere (only ones where the fougere accord clearly dominates deserves that designation, IMO).

The lavender/vanilla is hard to beat at the price of Le 3eme Homme. Even the likes of Casanova 1725 by Histoires de Parfums, at six times the price, can compare to it.

I would, however, fork out that price for the Marquis de Sade 1740.

I fully concur with Bigsly -

Caron's Third Man is NOT a fougere. A "fougere", as defined, is a class of fragrances that have the basic accord/top-note of lavender and base-notes of oakmoss and coumarin (tonka bean). Aromatic fougère, a derivative of this class contain additional notes of herbs, spice and/or wood.

While it is definitely very aromatic - and love Andylama's comment above about the Victorian-vibe and old-school structure - it is defined it is classified as a "Woody Aromatic", which is subjective. I think a "Woody Floral Aromatic" is more apropos and correct.

Let's not confuse what it is - Bigsly gives you some other fragrances that are traditional fougeres (which translates to "fern"). Houbigant Fougere Royale was the first true fougere and that was in the 19th century (1882). Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (1973) came later and reset the standard from which all others were measured (a green and wonderfully-rich composition). Azzarro Pour Homme (1978) is an Aromatic Fougere that has the required elements and went for more herbs (anise) and a base that included leather, amber, as well as musk along with the tonka bean (coumarin) and oakmoss needed for the classification.

I simply cannot even think of Caron's The Third Man as an Aromatic Fougere (or fougere at all)...because it is simply not one. It is a masculine floral with herbs and a warm base of moss and nice, light vetiver note. There is a light note (amber) that I perceive that smoothes and creates the warmth in the base. Not cloying or too vanillic, but there is something slightly sweet in the composition's dry down.

Cheers,

ericrico

I fully concur with Bigsly -

Caron's Third Man is NOT a fougere. A "fougere", as defined, is a class of fragrances that have the basic accord/top-note of lavender and base-notes of oakmoss and coumarin (tonka bean). Aromatic fougère, a derivative of this class contain additional notes of herbs, spice and/or wood.

While it is definitely very aromatic - and love Andylama's comment above about the Victorian-vibe and old-school structure - it is defined it is classified as a "Woody Aromatic", which is subjective. I think a "Woody Floral Aromatic" is more apropos and correct.

Let's not confuse what it is - Bigsly gives you some other fragrances that are traditional fougeres (which translates to "fern"). Houbigant Fougere Royale was the first true fougere and that was in the 19th century (1882). Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (1973) came later and reset the standard from which all others were measured (a green and wonderfully-rich composition). Azzarro Pour Homme (1978) is an Aromatic Fougere that has the required elements and went for more herbs (anise) and a base that included leather, amber, as well as musk along with the tonka bean (coumarin) and oakmoss needed for the classification.

I simply cannot even think of Caron's The Third Man as an Aromatic Fougere (or fougere at all)...because it is simply not one. It is a masculine floral with herbs and a warm base of moss and nice, light vetiver note. There is a light note (amber) that I perceive that smoothes and creates the warmth in the base. Not cloying or too vanillic, but there is something slightly sweet in the composition's dry down.

Cheers,

ericrico

Glad you enjoy 3rd man. You'll enjoy Aramis 900 too. But it is quite easy to smell in stores (Macys et al). It is the brother of Aromatics Elixir by Clinique (Clinique and Aramis are both Estee Lauder brands), they are close, so if you don't find A900, you can try Aromatics Elixir to smell the general idea.

cacio

Glad you like your first bottle - not sure how much you applied and where, but "sinus-clearing" spicy lime? I have never heard that about this Victorian dandy of a scent that it would actually have "power" associated with it. And, I, like to apply it like Pour Un Homme - but farther away from my body to let the scent disperse and separate when it lands on my skin and clothes. Lime is not actually a note I pick up...bergamot, perhaps?

But, the absolute key is that you like it! The florals are light and wonderful spring bouquet in a classic sense. Layering with Acteur (or Zino, which you did)? Well, if it works for you...but I love both of those very masculine and deep rose scents (Zino's is a "dirty" rose even) on their own and would never think to layer them with a spring garden of fresh, blooming flowers with a nice warm drydown into moss and vetiver (as well as the touch of amber). I could only imagine the rosewood note of Zino layering well, but the composition is so rich. Can you even smell Le3me Homme after applying Zino? I would think that it could get buried.

Any way - enjoy your bottle of wonderful juice from Caron! And, remember that it wears best with pressed linen clothes, a clean shave and a sense of sophistication. I find that to be the best way to enjoy it when out and about.

Cheers!

I get some birch tar in this one that ruins the ride for me (can't stand the stuff). But I do like the rest of the composition which is very pleasantly balanced.

Thank you, Father!

Interesting. Do you have current formulation Zino (DAVIDOFF in block letters) or Original (Script logo of Zino Davidoff)? That is somewhat important.

Anyway, the opening is vibrant and beautiful...the heart is near-perfection and the drydown is understated elegance (and soothing).

Enjoy - I love New Orleans and this fragrance will definitely do well in the humidity...Peace be with you!

ericrico

The description of 3rd Man in LT and LS's "Guide" book bears little resemblance to the new formulation, IMO. However, if you want a frag that meets that description, I suggest sampling Mediterraneum.

I think they did mention that the Carons have gone down considerably with each reformulation and I think that we already are a the third one.

This is a delightful scent. It took me two times apart wearing it to "fall in love". I can clearly smell three phases. A inicial soft lavander, watery, and perhaps alcoholic, which makes it inoffensive and affordable comppared to other scents that works with that note. Then, come a middle phase of spicy-floral, very delicious, and that lasts and lasts, however, it´s not that powerful as some said. At a late time, after 4-5 hours, it begins to show a powdery base surrounded by a sour smell. I tipically see that sour powder base on many eighties scents of nowadays as Jazz and antaeus, but i don´t know what is due to. Overall, amazing... I also bought caron pour un homme in the same order, but PuH has a initial 15 minutes that are rough. Troisieme is rounded from its beginning.

..........

Hi franeri -

I thought that was the case as Original Zino would be massive on top of this. Personally, I could see wearing the 3rd Man as a day scent and then an application of Zino Davidoff (new formulation) as an evening scent. The dry down of The 3rd Man would segue well (and the lifted light florals and herbs from the day) would turn dark at night. A little imagery...

By the way, as you may have guessed, I happen to have both Current and Original Zino - and am blessed for that. Only current formulation of the 3rd Man, but I have owned and remember the smell of Vintage.

Cheers,

Eric

Very nice and thoughtful post voidvader -

I like how you break down the composition into three phases - top, heart, base. Agreed - the heart is not an explosion - but a delightful bouquet of florals. From what I wrote above: " The top citrus blends seamlessly into the heart of gorgeous, "spiced" florals - a spring bouquet that consists of a smooth and full lavender and jasmine mixed with a great coriander accord and clove blended in (which could be where some reviewers are getting the slightly burnt/smoky note - I don't). This segues beautifully into a touch of coumarin (tonka bean) dusting the base, which is a combination of light vetiver and a nice green moss (not heavy oakmoss). The florals linger wonderfully and that is what makes this composition work so well...the longevity of the heart."

However, you mention "sour" - which can be either the light moss note or the vetiver, or combination thereof. The burnt/smoky accord that others pick-up is from clove and that is in the heart - personally, I smell clove and coriander from my kitchen herb rack - not anything burnt. Great depth in the heart and into the base nonetheless.

Conclusion - florals that are spiced and then lead into a touch amber (warmth) with a dash of tonka bean (slightly vanillic) could agree with you. The addition of vetiver and moss in the base keep the bouquet in the heart "green" and this in the floral realm without going towards an oriental. It stays in the "Victorian" garden where it came from. Sour can be a negative - but I think you will smell (as there are A LOT of 80's fragrances) with moss in the base and a touch of vetiver. If you know those notes, you can discern this fragrance a lot easier.

Final note...if you love sharp, rich and very fragrant lavender (like a fresh blade of it broken and smeared on your skin) - then you adore the top note in Caron Pour Un Homme. I happen to - and very heavily apply that (and in close to concentrate the smell). I find it to be invigorating and stimulating! You prefer the musk and vanilla in the drydown - which I enjoy too, but will reapply just to get that initial burst of lavender. To each their own - it's amazing how all of us can find affinity for a fragrance for different aspects and notes in their composition.

Cheers - great review and perspective!

ericrico

Ericrico, thanks for explaning and naming those notes! It was very helpful for learning!

double...

Moschino Uomo? is an absolute classic! It has been with me since it came out on my journey in life.

I wrote a passionate (but rather simple) review for it on Fragrantica.

It IS, indeed, that amazing and fresh. I get compliments galore - old and young alike too! My two young boys wear it...I got them a bottle for their growing collection. It is "sunshine in a bottle". Gorgeous!

Cheers!

It is truly special to me...glad you found the magic it offers!

Aramis 900 - I have not tried the current reformulation, but Vintage may be worth seeking out for a good price. I bought a vintage bottle of Aramis Tuscany Per Uomo recently...it is the only bottle from the house I own. You can read my review on Fragrantica as well, although I will cut & paste it here on Basenotes. Vintage Tuscany Per Uomo is excellence and transcendent juice!

Cheers,

Eric

For those interested, I recently acquired some never used, vintage Aramis Herbal 900 minis (quarter ounce), which I can sell for $9 each delivered in USA with DC#.

Hello franeri -

Basenotes is back up...let's hope for good!!! They have been working hard at keeping us fragrance lovers going on this forum - God Bless them!

Any way, I wanted to point you to a very interesting and unique masculine floral - Krizia Moods Uomo. Please read my reviews (here and Fragrantica)! It has a rich, golden color - it is very chic with a gorgeous and aromatic bouquet of golden tobacco leaf, patchouli and rich florals - including a very nice rose note in the heart. It is discontinued, but you can find it out there (try FragranceX.com). I have built up a nice collection of various masculine scents from Krizia - Moods, to me, in so unique and in my top scents. It is considered vintage and it definitely has a bit of a retro-vibe, but most importantly, it is of very high quality and I've never smelled anything like it.

Vintage Zino, Vintage Acteur and Krizia Moods Uomo are all very masculine florals. Read Shamu's blog on it (it covers notes well) and look up reviews besides mine. This is getting very rare.

Cheers,

ericrico

Hmmmm....good question.

I don't know Ungaro III and have stayed away from it due to some reviews I have read. I will say this - if you like a lot of golden tobacco, deep patchouli and rich leather with your rose - then you will like it.

Ungaro III is recommended in the Vintage formulation (which I believe is fairly rare and expensive). Do you have Ungaro III? I know the scent pyramid, etc. and almost bought it a couple of times, but never did.

I bought Original Zino Davidoff and Vintage Acteur instead within a close proximity of time. Honestly - once you have those two - one wonders if it can get any better and you pause to enjoy beauty of each!

Moods attracted me because of the awesome rich golden tobacco leaf (dried tobaccco) accord that is sublime with the patchouli (some of THE best patchouli I have ever smelled in a fragrance) - I liked that it had the florals and rose which put it over the top for me. But, this would be a fantastic scent even without the nice rose in the heart.

Another one to try, and I just wrote some reviews and threads on forums here at Basenotes is a wonderful fragrance from Yves Rochers - Comme Une Evidence Homme! It is an incredibly well-made bottle of juice that is totally natural smelling. The house brought in Antoine Maisondieu to make this glorious bottle! It is not a retro bottle, but a fantastic one nonetheless and can be had for a VERY good price!

The scent pyramid here on BN is good, but I prefer Yves Rocher's, although I actually get the beautiful, deep rose scent at the end of the middle/heart and into the base of woods. It is well-worth looking into. There is nothing synthetic and the structure is such (no vanilla or amber) that keeps it around for a long time. It is a 4 hour wear on me - application to clothing and fabric really helps (and is a must for me) - along with liberal application. I believe it is one you should look at right away. Read the threads on here...complimented as much as any other scent I own!

From Yves Rocher's site:
Olfactory family:Spicy, floral woody
Top notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Cypress
Heart notes: Floral rose facet, Black pepper, Nutmeg, Cardamom
Base notes: Patchouli, Gaiac wood (Bulnesia sarmenti variety), Cedarwood

Cheers,

ericrico