Well, we will never know for sure
I have no love for LVMH but I do think Wasser and others at Guerlain want to make good perfumes and given that Guerlain own plantations and have various exclusive suppllier agreements in place with growers all over the planet you would THINK they would actually want to use the ingredients rather than flip them off for cheaper chemical substitutes, wouldn't you? Why invest in assets that give you a USP and then use what every one else is using?
Here is what Luca Turin wrote in the Little Book: I hope he doesn't mind me quoting and I will say for those of you who haven't read it that altho it's a slim volume it is a great update on many of the classics that have been reformulated and, by default, an indictment of IFRA for what they have allowed to occur.
2011: "The joke built into the original was the dressing-up of cheap heliotropin with wildly expensive iris. Now that one is banned and the other is cheaper, the fragrance smells deliciously of iris. Some of the sweet nostalgia of the original is gone, but it is still very good in a suitably anemic way. In fairness, Guerlain could not have done better.
I'll add one more quote from an excellent interview persolaise conducted with Demachy at Dior / LVMH with a highlight - sometimes it helps to read between the lines . . . these guys can't actually come right out and say it before the event but if ever there was an inside tip then this has to it:
"After the public presentation, I managed to have a brief chat with Monsieur Demachy, during which he informed me that Guerlains in-house nose, Thierry Wasser with whom he works in the same LVMH lab is still pursuing his campaign to obtain some sort of special status for 'heritage perfumes' such as LHeure Bleue and Mitsouko which would make them exempt from certain fragrance regulations. Monsieur Demachy stated that increasingly tight restrictions on certain materials were the direct cause of the decision to discontinue the extrait of Apres LOndee; it was felt that it would be better not to have an extrait at all rather than sell an inferior formulation. When I asked him if the eau de toilette is safe for the foreseeable future, he raised his eyebrows and said, It is here now but be careful.
The full article can be read here:http://www.basenotes.net/content/741...w-Perfume-Hall