Originally Posted by Ursula
There is more of a chance to find "good fragrances" among the niche products, because the perfumer is not as much hampered in their creations. True, his budget is limited. His output is limited. His perfumes may appear unpolished. When I experience Andy Tauer's line, most of those are wholesome and satisfying.
Brian Chambers laid down a very educational post.
We need labels on categories to make distinctions, to know where to go and where to look. The whole art of perfumery is not standing still, it is a reflection of the current times.
I wonder WHERE the perfumers will go ... what is next ?
I only partially agree Ursula. Yes, TODAY, there is more of a chance to find "good fragrances" among the niche products (no doubts) but it's not always been like that. When designers used to be "creative" and "innovative" they delivered outstanding compositions (most of them are still avialable). Comme Des Garcons, which is a designer by definition, still does
pretty nice and artsy stuff. On the other hand if you take, let's say, Gucci, you'll probably have some objections. Yes, they're currently releasing forgettable stuff but this is due to the process of massification we're experiencing from the last decade or so. When Tom Ford was the director, Gucci was pretty darn good (both clothes and perfumes). Then Frida took over and massified the brand with uninspired monogrammed purses and fake-retro stuff. The style of their latest fragrances reflects this direction...
My point is: the huge amount of sport fragrances and flankers released by most of the aforementioned houses have nothing to do with the fact they are Designer Brands but it just reflects the increasing need of capitalization. Massify a part of your brand to sustain the other. That is why, most of designers started an "exclusive" line on a parallel level. To keep on satisfying those customers who used to refer to Cartier/Hermes/Dior/Chanel as exclusive and high-end brands.
I don't see much differencies between Mona Di Orio
and Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur
or between Les Heures de Cartier
and, let's say, L'Artisan Parfumeur
, if you know what I mean...
Bottomline: my idea of stop dividing fragrances between niche and designers had obviously a provocative facet. I'm kinda "annoyed"
(sorry the lack of a better word) by all kind of extremists, including the "niche only/designers only" perfumistos.