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Gourmand notes in Woodsy/Pine Cone Fragrances

post #1 of 25
6/11/12 at 11:23am
Thread Starter 
What the hell is up with this? I've noticed it in almost every coniferous-based scent. This was a long time coming, and includes too many to name, but the so-called "woody" L'Artisan fragrances pushed me over the edge. This is widespread and has ruined many potentially great fragrances. Even Fille en Aiguilles. I get the need for top notes but why the flood of gourmands as cover? Are there any of these scents that don't fall into this trap?
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post #2 of 25
6/11/12 at 1:08pm
Calanques Mediterranean Inlets by L'Occitane
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post #3 of 25
6/11/12 at 1:38pm
Thread Starter 
I'm a fan. Thanks for the tip.
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post #4 of 25
6/11/12 at 2:11pm
Sugar is oozing everywhere. Although from Lutens it is to be expected.

ELdO Eloge d'un traitre seems to me old style dry coniferous (and their Je suis un homme, while not exactly coniferous, is dry too). Ormonde man (or better woman) is also devoid of sweetness (I prefer the woman because richer, the man veers too much into ozonic-aquatic for my taste).

cacio
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post #5 of 25
6/11/12 at 2:22pm
Have you tried any of these ?.
1828 - histoires de Parfums
Zagorsk - Comme des garcons
Freetrapper - D.S. & Durga
Feuilles de Tabac - Miller Harris
Itasca - Lubin
Windsor - Creed
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post #6 of 25
6/11/12 at 2:32pm
Granville (Dior) and the original Pino Sylvestre from way back if you haven't tried it.

That said, I consider Fou d'Absinthe & Filles en Aiguilles both great scents, I don't see that using pine or coniferous notes in more complex compositions is a sacreligious act
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post #7 of 25
6/11/12 at 4:56pm
Polo
Yatagan (unless you consider that celery note gourmand...)
Blenheim Bouquet
Tom Ford Italian Cypress
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post #8 of 25
6/11/12 at 8:23pm
I'd normally recommend Fou d'Absinthe, but perhaps that's one of the woody L'Artisans that you've tried out. I don't find it foody, but there are a lot of kitchen spices in there.

Perhaps Bois d'Orage could scratch your itch. It's very dry, although not as coniferous and resinous as you're looking for perhaps. More of a dry woody cedar scent.
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post #9 of 25
6/11/12 at 8:42pm
Try:

Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan Parfumeur - One is initially treated to a bittersweet blast from the stimulating melange of greenness spurred by ansinthe, with its dusty, dry, medicinal dimensions; angelica, with its heavy, sweet, musky attributes; star anise, with its smoky, rich, licorice character and black currant, with its strong, fruity bouquet tinged with a cat urine slant. Percolating with a faint backdrop of a coniferous forest, this somewhat brisk blend meanders to the inviting heart. Here, woody clove, spicy-sweet ginger, cinnamon-like nutmeg and a hint of lively pepper shower the green opening, and impart their warmth, while resourceful patchouli adds a warm earthiness with its slight nutty and musky overtures. The foresty background is still here, and carries this flavorful concoction to the awaiting base. Robust conifers take center stage with the fresh and slightly camphorous woodiness of pine needles and the balsamic, christmas tree aroma of firs. Cistus bestows its terpenic and pine-like facets and vague illusions of amber and leather. A faintly rugged and quintessentially outdoorsy drydown ensues. This all-season, masculine composition has good projection, a 12-inch, scent cloud, and very good longevity, 10 hours; and should be experienced, especially on cool evenings.
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post #10 of 25
6/11/12 at 9:46pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Yatagan (unless you consider that celery note gourmand...)

I don't. It's the exact scent of sagebrush and chaparral. It's okay.

Thanks for all the responses.
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post #11 of 25
6/11/12 at 9:49pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Al. And dollarsandscents. I had high hopes for Fou d'Absinthe. Honestly, I'm surprised. Thanks for the recommendations.
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post #12 of 25
6/12/12 at 6:06am
CH Men by Carolina Herrera has a strong 'cane sugar' note and the effect is like a sappy branch on a Christmas tree. I really like the way it opens--a spicy, sugary pine tree.
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post #13 of 25
6/12/12 at 1:04pm
I personally don't consider Fou d'Absinthe very gourmand at all. I guess there is some spice in there, so it's not pure conifer or pine...

Also, I think many pine scents include something sweet to give you that resin or pine sap impression.

Personally, I'm somewhat relate to your frustration OP. I've yet to find a scent that gives me the feel of walking in a pine forest on a cold, crisp winter night. I would really love to find a scent like that. When I read the marketing copy for Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilee, it was exactly what I am looking for. Unfortunately, judging by reviews the scent does not live up to its inspiration.

Sonoma Scent Studio's new fragrance, Forest Walk, doesn't seem to have any overt gourmand notes listed. That could be something worth trying out. Also, check out Slumberhouse Norne, which uses only forest absolutes.
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post #14 of 25
6/12/12 at 1:25pm
L´artisan Mechant Loup .
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post #15 of 25
6/12/12 at 1:58pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Hobbes. Yep, that's what I'm after. Unfortunately I get the same impression re Nuit Etoilee. And no, Fou d'Absinthe is not gourmand, just doesn't exactly live up to the super-woodsy hype IMO.

Mechant Loup is a perfect example of what I'm talking about.
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post #16 of 25
6/12/12 at 2:35pm
though there is not pine cone , I find Eau noire a great green/woodsy-gourmand , but you must be a fan of immortelle to tolerate it.
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post #17 of 25
6/12/12 at 4:34pm
My sample of the day jogged my memory on this thread. It was CDG Laurel, and it's very leafy and woody, fairly dry with the suggestion of conifer. It's Monocle twin from CDG, Hinoki, is also a good recommendation for a very literal interpretation of conifer woods. I find both of these to be rather linear, but might deliver what you're looking for.

Another CDG tree interpretation you might like would be Sequoia. It does have some sweetness typical of the conifer genre, starting off with a boozy-sweet brandy/whiskey accord, but evolves into an awesome interpretation of a California Sequoia tree. This one has better evolution than the two above, but is not quite as dry.
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post #18 of 25
6/12/12 at 5:47pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Al. I like Hinoki. It knows what it's doing. Sequoia is also quite good.
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post #19 of 25
8/11/12 at 12:17am
Slumberhouse - Norne. Straight up FOREST. Definitely no gourmand here. They sell samples online...I suggest you give it a try if you're interested in purchasing this type of scent. Imagine working at a Christmas tree lot or cutting down pine as a lumberjack and this is what you'd smell like at the end of the day. I can't speak highly enough about how unique and magnificent this new up and coming perfumer is.

Here's the description of Norne: "Fog caked needle, lichen, fern and moss perfume the nocturnal air beneath grandiose canopies of fir and hemlock - a headspace captured in perfect equilibrium. Containing not one single essential oil nor synthetic, Norne is composed entirely with 100%pure forest absolutes; a connoisseur grade fantasy/surrealist recipe of incensed coniferous woodsy resins."
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post #20 of 25
8/11/12 at 2:36am
Possibly Animale Animale.
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post #21 of 25
8/11/12 at 4:33am
Eevn Pinso Silvestre has a marginally gourmand resinous note.
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post #22 of 25
8/11/12 at 5:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rynegne View Post

Slumberhouse - Norne. Straight up FOREST."

I agree, see my impressions thereof ↓↓↓:

Norne by Slumberhouse - Upon application, one is treated to a stand of black hemlocks. The scent of pine needles, pine sap and pine bark creates a coniferous delight. The smoky and sweetly charred-wood facets of clove waft about creating the illusion of a distant campfire somewhere. Transitioning, a resinous, camphor aura comes into its own reminding of crushed-pine needles. Crestworts supply an aromatic mustiness, while champignon contributes its mouldy, mushroom aspects. Moss and lichen, with their dank and earthy character, completes the forest undergrowth mirage. The foresty pines segue to the base where a colophony incense sprinkles its splendid, aromatic, pine resin and smokiness, while a joyful woodiness from pepper flutters about. A spiritual element is added to the outdoorsy pine. A pleasing drydown ensues. This masculine, nature-loving composition has very good projection and longevity.
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post #23 of 25
8/11/12 at 9:37pm
Polo and Tsar.
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post #24 of 25
8/11/12 at 9:49pm
Yeah, you need to try Norne and also Granville
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post #25 of 25
8/11/12 at 10:35pm
The original Jaguar though the pine/woody qualities are subtle (herbs and citrus are more prominent, especially at first).
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