L'Anarchiste by Caron - Upon application, one is treated to an impressive, citric accord. Mandarin, with its sweet, orange-like facet commingles with orange blossom, with its lovely floral and creamy sweetness, as well as a camphoraceous, indolic, orangey neroli. This citrus melange interplays with a metallic, mineral concoction of musty iron and acrid, fireworks-like, burnt gunpowder. This somewhat odd opening drifts to the heart. Here, wonderfully warm spices, to wit, cinnamon, with its spicy semi-sweetness, nutmeg, with its subtle, cinnamon-like spiciness, cardamon with its aromatic spicy, nutty and anise character, as well as clove, with its earthy spiciness, intermingle with menthol from cedar leaves. This enticing minty coolness interplays nicely with the warm spices, and encases the intriguing opening. A woody undercurrent of dry, cedar shavings and creamy sandalwood carry the exotic melange to the mollifying base. Here, a somewhat powdery, white musk, with its laundered-linen illusion, teams up with the green, yet clean, earthiness of vetiver to foster a sedate drydown. This well-blended and interestingly distinctive composition has average projection and longevity.
Black Soul by Ted Lapidus - Upon application, one is treated to a pleasing blend from the interplay of a bittersweet and peppery bergamot, a crisp and fresh, lemon blossom, a spicy cardamon, a slightly indolic neroli and a refreshing mint. Consequently, an all-too-familiar, sweet and spicy, bubble-gum smell materializes and wafts to the waiting heart. Here, in the middle, the bubble-gum-ish opening is immersed in an enveloping bath of fruity, medjool dates and raisins, sweetly warm and earthy cinnamon, and a hay-like and slightly honeyed floral from saffron. Transitioning to the alluring base, Chinese cedarwood imparts its camphoraceous, pencil shaving scent, while tolu balsam infuses its balsamic and cinnamic facets. A sweet and airy woodiness from gaiacwood also presents. Ambrocenide contributes its amber-like, woody character, while musk diffuses its soft and sweetly clean nuances. A comforting drydown ensues. This masculine, refined composition has average projection and average longevity, lasting about 8 hours.