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English Aristocrat

post #1 of 25
Thread Starter 
The much awaited response to my earlier thread regarding the perfumes of a Turn of the Century French aristocrat. I know turn my attention to the perfumes of an English aristocrat of the same period. I nominate Hammam Bouquet, Crown Town & Country, Sandringham, Dunhill for Men 1934, the Dukes of Pall Mall Belgravia, and Floris no. 89

Please add additional choices and feel free to comment on the persona of such an aristocrat.
post #2 of 25
+1 for Hammam Bouquet
+1 for Sandringham

Adding:

1805 Truefitt and Hill (citrus, fresh)
D.R. Harris Mayfair (heavier florals and musk)

I think of an Edwardian gentleman with a sporting nature, who might have accompanied Edward VII to the tailors of Savile Row and to Le Chabanais in Paris to spend his idle time.
post #3 of 25
Love Sandringham! Did they really have frags back then that smelled like it? It seems much more modern to me.
post #4 of 25
Muehlhens' Eau de Cologne 4711 - I believe they had a shop in London back in 1796.
post #5 of 25
I'd also go with Floris No.89
post #6 of 25
Blenheim Bouquet by Penhaligon's
post #7 of 25
Another vote for Blenheim Bouquet, as well as Floris Limes, Creed Royal English Leather and Royal Scottish Lavender, in addition to the already aforementioned scents.
post #8 of 25
One has to think that one or other of the colognes made by George F. Trumper (Trumpers) would have figured in an English aristocrat's toilette. They've been shaving and cutting the male residents (read "Aristocrats" especially in the period in question) of Mayfair's hair since the 1870's.
post #9 of 25
Everytime I watch James Ivory's beautiful Remains of the Day (1993) I am captured by the short but distinctive hunting-scene, and although it is an anachronism I usually picture Lord Darlington (=the superb and underrated James Fox) wearing Habit Rouge EdT (Guerlain) - not the current somewhat "flat" or "thin" version, but the one around 2005/2006. Dammit, I might watch this film tonight for the umpteenth time.
post #10 of 25
A serious response would demand asking him.
post #11 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pollux View Post

A serious response would demand asking him.


Though to be fair, He isn't an aristocrat He's a Royal... subtle but important distinction
post #12 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilaire View Post

Though to be fair, He isn't an aristocrat He's a Royal... subtle but important distinction

He also wasn't around at the turn of the century.
post #13 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilaire View Post

Though to be fair, He isn't an aristocrat He's a Royal... subtle but important distinction

Indeed, but hard to comprehend for a republican,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randall Flagg View Post

He also wasn't around at the turn of the century.

For the above mentioned cases, it does not look like

Seriously, guys... and getting back to the topic, my vote goes for Blenheim's. If having a fancy for the exotic, replace it for Hammam's.
post #14 of 25
another vote for Penhaligon
post #15 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilaire View Post

One has to think that one or other of the colognes made by George F. Trumper (Trumpers) would have figured in an English aristocrat's toilette. They've been shaving and cutting the male residents (read "Aristocrats" especially in the period in question) of Mayfair's hair since the 1870's.

Trumpers has been around since the 1870s as a shaving outfit; I'm not certain they've been making perfumes that long. Eucris came out in 1912 as lily-scented hair dressing not a cologne--the current cologne is a 1970s incarnation.
post #16 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by bokaba View Post

Trumpers has been around since the 1870s as a shaving outfit; I'm not certain they've been making perfumes that long. Eucris came out in 1912 as lily-scented hair dressing not a cologne--the current cologne is a 1970s incarnation.

Hmmm, from what I can recall George F. Trumper himself (the founder) was a perfumer who made exclusive colognes for gentlemen who paid for exclusivity for the perfumes he created for them (I don't know if the company continued doing this right up to the 1900's or not, but I imagine they probably did), they ended up getting Queen Victoria's warrant and the warrants of several other monarchs, the barber services and other toiletries seem to have been a part of the overall package. I'm sure you're right about their current lineup of fragrances though.

Tbh there isn't an awful lot of info about the history of the company to be found so you either go on what little they tell you themselves or surmise which is never satisfactory.
post #17 of 25
Blenheim Bouquet very good alternative.
post #18 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyBars View Post

Love Sandringham! Did they really have frags back then that smelled like it? It seems much more modern to me.

Sandringham doesn't really strike me as modern. It does have that 70s herbal chypre flavor, but the solid muguet and florals keep it strongly Edwardian. Another one I forgot--the brilliant yet simple Dukes of Pall Mall Cotswold.
post #19 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilaire View Post

Hmmm, from what I can recall George F. Trumper himself (the founder) was a perfumer who made exclusive colognes for gentlemen who paid for exclusivity for the perfumes he created for them (I don't know if the company continued doing this right up to the 1900's or not, but I imagine they probably did), they ended up getting Queen Victoria's warrant and the warrants of several other monarchs, the barber services and other toiletries seem to have been a part of the overall package. I'm sure you're right about their current lineup of fragrances though.

Tbh there isn't an awful lot of info about the history of the company to be found so you either go on what little they tell you themselves or surmise which is never satisfactory.

And some companies have to manufacture "legends" in order to market their products.

I would now add Trumper's Ajaccio Violets, which is made for men.

http://www.trumpers.com/product_deta...ctID=111547192
post #20 of 25
I think all the classics have been named, though if we are to be historically strict many that would make a good Victorian/Edwardian fit would not qualify: Dukes of Pall Mall are clearly inspired by older formulations but hark from the 1980s. I believe many of the masculine Crown Scents are post 1920s. I've researched their 19th century advertising, which only ever mentions women's scents (their bestsellers were Crab Apple and lavender smelling salts, a half-dozen others is mentioned in a few ads: Violets, advertised specifically as non-synthetic, Malabar and others. They must have had several hundred in production and were churning out new ones contantly, not unlike Guerlain in the 1890s.). Floris 89 is from the 1950s. No doubt Trumper, DR Harris, Crown and others did have a range of scented grooming potions and colognes (handkerchief only!) for gentlemen around 1900, but it is so hard to find certifiable dates without access to company records. The ones I could vouch for off-hand are muchoir de Monsieur / Jicky, Hammam and Blenheim Bouquet, Farina Cologne, of course, and, I suppose, Floris 127.

Here's a bit from a 1907 magazine that indicates the ambivalence concerning men and perfume at the time:


LL
post #21 of 25
oxford and cambridge - czech & speake
post #22 of 25
Thread Starter 
I agree most of the men's Crown scents are probably from the end of WWI-beginning of WWII period. I know Crown went out of business sometime around WWII and was revived in the 1990s (?) and went out again around 2000.
post #23 of 25
Great post, the_good_life. Dare I mention a particular man of fashion who took perfumed baths and used eau de Cologne and eau de jasmine? For the record, this man stood as godfather to one of Charles Dickens' sons.
post #24 of 25
Thread Starter 
The closest fragrance I've ever come to the elusive eau de jasmin is Creed's Jasmal, which is a beautiful jasmine soliflore with a bit of balsam and some ambergris. Hauntingly beautiful and natural.
post #25 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by bokaba View Post

The closest fragrance I've ever come to the elusive eau de jasmin is Creed's Jasmal, which is a beautiful jasmine soliflore with a bit of balsam and some ambergris. Hauntingly beautiful and natural.

For me, the best eau de jasmin is Serge Lutens' A La Nuit, an in-your-face indolic, masculine jasmine to be applied lavishly between one's muscular pecs during one's toilette. The faint of heart need not even think about using this.
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