Terre d'hermes - reformulated?

Haha. (Sorry.) What is left to say here? If this turns out to be true reformulamania has reached another peak. Some years old and already reformulated for no discernible reason. I read they had done the same to the Parfum.

But I'm sure if they had done a reformulation before introduction of the Parfum this would have been realized on basenotes way earlier. Seems a new development to me.

Don't be sorry for "another Terre thread". Aventus is the thread cancer here.

Iso E super restriction. What else ?

I am positive another BNer stated recently as a fact that TdH was reformulated based on a European restriction. I have not seen much discussion of it, however.

Terre HAS to be reformulated... my bottle from when it was released outlasts and definitely outperforms as far as notes go the 6.7 oz bottle I bought from Fragrancenet. I sent it back and ordered a 3.4 and it's not too much stronger.

If this is true, it's sad news. Nothing is safe...

If true, happy I already have a large bottle of the original.

According to this article, Terre d'Hermes was originally 55% Iso E Super (compound, not total of the diluted fragrance):

http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/20...ults-geza.html

According to this article, the current IFRA maximum allowed is 21.4%:

http://www.fragrantica.com/news/Iso-...etic-2837.html

I have to agree. My first bottle of Terre was a monster. I bought a new one a couple of months ago and it's a shadow of what it was (longevity and sillage wise)

Anyone know where to get 'Vintage' TDH ?? haha

I have to say if anything I've noticed my TdH bottles getting stronger over the years. I've had a bottle since it first came out. The earlier ones were mostly fruitier and I got grapefruit rather than orange peel and a softer, smoother woody base. Not sure if this is true (the reformulation) or if it's just my nose...

How did you figure out what year your bottles were produced? I can't find Hermes on checkcosmetics

What year would my bottles be? 0JAAQ and 0BBA5

As per the 2009 Perfume Shrine article mentioned above :


Ah well, that was all of three years ago, way back in the Stone Age.

"Vintage" TdH has Oak Moss in it so the newer ones may have replaced it with Tree Moss or eliminated it completely. Fortunate enough to pick up a "vintage" 200ml bottle a while back.

I couldn't notice any difference.

Yes it has been. I had a small bottle from 2007 as well, it projected very well, the current version does not have the same projection, it has mediocre projection now. I attribute this to the Iso E reduction.

Not to worry, simply buy the better Yardley Citrus & Wood. Extremely analgous, better & far cheaper. Approx. $20 on Amazon.

But the Ifra restriction sure refers to tne diluted fragrance. You're comparing two different things. You have to take into account the perfume oil content, which is quite high for TdH, I beliefe something like 20 or 25 %. So that would make a total Iso E Super content of below 15 % for sure, so no need for reformulation.

Btw, I have an unopened box from duty free. How can I translate the batch code? Or do I have to open the package to find the real code?

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On the packing thre is only an EAN code, which I researched on the internet. There is no information about the year of production... there is also a reference number REF 20873. Didn't find any information...

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Ok, i finlly unboxed it (I didn't unbox it earlier because I had a decant plus I was thinking of giving it to a friend maybe. Too late :-) on the bottle itself it says 0kAAM. So does it mean that it is from 2010? Is this good or bad?

Does anyone know if this reformulation applies to the Parfum as well, or just to the edt?

As I've been saying, for the last couple of years or so, nothing is sacred anymore. Always try to acquire backups shortly after purchasing a fragrance you absolutely love. If the worst comes to the worst, you can offload them either on the sales broad or on ebay.

Around $12 at TJMaxx/Marshall's when they have it. Their Iris scent is outstanding as well.

I wonder if you could layer TdH with Iso E Super (check eBay for knockoff of Molecule 01 which is basically E) and fix the problem IFRA created. It is too bad Everclear is banned in NY or I would make up my own batch of wearable E.

No.

Both percentages in the articles are percentages of compound before dilution.

is it still worth buying if you cant find the "vintage" haha or should i just get yardley citrus and woods

The edt seems to be a tad weaker compared to nthe initial release. I prefer the parfum.

I noticed a distinct difference between my initial sample of TdH Parfum and the bottle I purchased. I attributed it to either the sample getting oxidized and altering the smell, or a difference between the dap vs spray application method. I double checked, and my bottle starts with a 1- so I assume it's 2011.

The sample smelled better without a doubt, the initial blast was deep orange peel and the drydown blossomed into something containing what I perceived to be a floral wood note. My bottle starts with a brighter grapefruit smell which persists throughout the entire scent, and does not contain the floral wood drydown. It is much more linear, and although it's still very nice, it lacks the original magic of the decant I fell in love with.

It may not just be reformulation, but could also be down to aged juice. I have had bottle of TdH (both EdT and Parfum) for 12-18 month periods. Some of these have become very strong, cloying and the 'grapefruit' note really does seem to be more 'orange peel'. I remember they were all more grapefruit-like in the opening, settling down to an aromatic-woody base. Could it be that more bottles are sitting longer on shelves and in stock rooms before being sold?

I learned recently TDH EDT is one of the fake frags that gets sold on ebay. There's a thread around here somewhere talking about it and pictures to help sort it out. I had one sold one to me too before I realized it's a popular faked frag on ebay. I got the full refund and he let me keep the fake.....and I won't wear it at all.

I do have to say it smells kinda close to the real thing but it doesn't project as well nor does it have the flinty note. It just smells citrus and woods but flat, hollow and lacking for the whole 3 hours it lasts.

how do you know if its a fake link to the thread ?

I wonder if there is a Terre d'Hermes expert or two that other people could send samples to test. I'm not yet convinced that TdH has been reformulated, but it sounds plausible. It would be nice to figure out what dates of production are safe and which are potentially reformulated.

Also, has anyone deciphered the production codes on Hermes bottles yet?

I'm curious if the parfum has been reformulated, since it was released later.

Yeah people let's see if this is indeed reformulated. I, for one, just started to get really warmed up to this juice, now just need to find me a monster bottle.

I was thinking of picking one up.....but, thanks to BN, i guess i would really have to try it first

My code is 2EAAL, I figure it's a 2012 release, can't smell this stuff after a few hours, but apparently it can fill a room good (got a compliment as soon as someone entered the room like 7.5 hours after initial application, by then I couldn't even smell it when I put my nose against my arm). Good enough for me, if it can deliver 8 hours of "noticing" by others, so that it covers a work day stuff does its job, especially considering this is an orangy scent and usually these don't last at all on my dry skin
Makes me wonder though, if this really was even more potent in the past before said reformulations. I can definitely see what the hype is about.

I have never understand some call this a "sillage monster". It smells very nice, but it`s one of the weakest scent i`ve tried, and the edp version is even worth..

It was never a siilage monster.

You should check out the guitar message boards. The same stuff is happening with the guitar industry. For example, electric guitars with Brazilian Rosewood fingerboards usually sell for a couple of thousand dollars more than the ones with Rosewood from other countries.

if this is true then Montale's Red vetiver is a good replacement!

This may explain why this fragrance does absolutely nothing for me.I bought a 30ml travel bottle with a 100ml refill from Duty free at Dubai airport.Completey undetectable on me after a couple of hours.A good reminder for me to stick it on ebay!

Now hold on a second (two months in the future)

My batch code for my TdH edt is 1ABAN--a 2011 batch I think--and the ingredients list both oak and tree moss.
What's going on here?

Damn...and Hermes seemed to be immune to the reformulation plague.

Must get a backup of Declaration, just in case.

+1 absolutely. Will also get a backup...

Why drag Declaration into this problem?

Same perfumer, many of the same ingredients, similar smell, so probably also targeted for reformulation. And since it's regarded as a modern classic, that pretty much guarantees reformulation.

OK... sotd is TdH parfum, so I came upon this thread, read it, pondered it, resisted the urge to go look at my 'codes' on the parfum bottle and edt as well, but just couldn't help myself. Happy relief; 2009/2008, respectively.

HOWEVER, WHAT IS WITH ALL THIS PERSISTENT HAND-WRINGING W/R/T ISO E SUPER & TDH?

All y'all should settle down and: 1) go read the Perfume Shrine article linked in post #8; 2) go to the IFRA Standard - 43rd Amendment doc directed at the Iso E Super restriction [ http://www.ifraorg.org/en-us/standards_restricted/s3/p7 the document is titled "OTNE (1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl)ethanone) Tags: Amberonne, Boisvelone, Iso E super, Isocyclemone E"].

As lifted from the PS article...



Although it may not have been clearly written in the PS article (and certainly confused further in the Fragrantica piece, linked to in post #8 as well) as noted directly from the standard itself, 'Limits in the finished product" for category 4 is 21.4%. Think about it folks. It is the finished product that is allergen/bio/eco/neuro concerning. Afterall, it is the universe of finished products from which IFRA perfoms its random tests in its compliance cycles. Limiting the % limit on the concentrate/unfinished compound makes no sense as dilution makes all the difference.

Now I no longer have my box for TdH edt, but the box for the parfum indicates 79% alc content. Assuming, conservatively, that the edt has the same 21% concentration as the parfum... that would mean a IES concentration in the finished product of only about 11.5% (.55x.21). Far, far below the 21.4%.

What are you guys thinking? Chill out.

Sure, TdH may have been reformed. And TdH may have even been reformed in response to an IFRA standard concerning a different restriced or prohibited ingredient that only Hermes or JCE know about. But, TdH was not reformed due to IFRA's IES restriction.

All I know is that the current EDT is far weaker than the original version that my wife and I fell in love with. The current TDH Parfum is closer to the original EDT. I wish I had a big fat bottle of the original EDT, because it is my favorite version of all. I HATE these reformulations.

Spladam!

I totally agree! Something has changed. I've been wearing TDH edt since 2006 and was amazed by the sillage and longevity. Now, it is not the same. I've returned bottles to Nordstrom, Sephora, and Fragrancenet because something was wrong with the juice. I still love the frag but I'm tired of returning bad juice. I recently smelled a TDH edp tester in Sephora and it smelled like the old edt (great sillage and longevity). Purchased a bottle of the edp, thinking it would be like the juice of old and had to return because it was so watered down. I just don't know what to do about my favorite frag.


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So true! You are spot on!

I just got lucky with an EDT I bought at Sephora. I also just sold my EDP. It did not last or project on me. The EDT is the best one I've had since the first batch.

I still wear the EDT and my current one still has pretty good strength. But I'd like to find some backups. Is finding one that is like original that hit or miss?

Yep, has been for me at least. It's still not quite as good but it's the closest I've found.

Same thing. I never had any luck with the Pure Parfum that I bought from Bloomingdales, it disappeared in less than 3 hours and never projected. I had to sell it and go back to the EDT.

Hope not! That's too good of a frag to have reformulated. And you know it's very rare that reformulated is better.

I have also noticed this.

Just got 2012 batch and compared to my vintage. New reformulation is far weaker. Sillage is gone after 2~ hours but does stay close to skin until about 6 hours. Old one will easily project after 9~12 hours. Disappointing. Got my new one from Fragrancenet.