OK... sotd is TdH parfum, so I came upon this thread, read it, pondered it, resisted the urge to go look at my 'codes' on the parfum bottle and edt as well, but just couldn't help myself. Happy relief; 2009/2008, respectively.
HOWEVER, WHAT IS WITH ALL THIS PERSISTENT HAND-WRINGING W/R/T ISO E SUPER & TDH?
All y'all should settle down and: 1) go read the Perfume Shrine article linked in post #8; 2) go to the IFRA Standard - 43rd Amendment doc directed at the Iso E Super restriction [ http://www.ifraorg.org/en-us/standards_restricted/s3/p7
the document is titled "OTNE (1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl)ethanone) Tags: Amberonne, Boisvelone, Iso E super, Isocyclemone E"].
As lifted from the PS article...
Here is a table of Top Ten Fragrances with Regard to Their Content in Iso E Super
No., Fragrance Name (Company, launch year), Iso E Super
[NB. the percentage is in regards to compound, not diluted ready to use product]
1 Molecule 01 (escentric molecules, 2005) 100%
2 Perles de Lalique (Lalique, 2007) 80%
3 Poivre Samarcande (Herme`s, 2004) 71%
4 Escentric 01 (escentric molecules, 2005) 65%
5 Terre d'Hermes (Hermes, 2006) 55%
6 Incense Kyoto (comme des garcons, 2002) 55%
7 Incense Jaisalmer (comme des garcons, 2002) 51%
8 Fierce for Men (Abercrombie & Fitch, 2002) 48%
9 Kenzo Air (Kenzo, 2003) 48%
10 Encre noire (Lalique, 2006) 45%
Ref for table: Schon G. 2008. 'Escentric' molecules. Chemistry & Biodiversity. 5 (6) :1154-8. In June 2008. Verlag Helvetica Chimica Acta AG,Zurich
Although it may not have been clearly written in the PS article (and certainly confused further in the Fragrantica piece, linked to in post #8 as well) as noted directly from the standard itself, 'Limits in the finished product"
for category 4 is 21.4%. Think about it folks. It is the finished product that is allergen/bio/eco/neuro concerning. Afterall, it is the universe of finished products from which IFRA perfoms its random tests in its compliance cycles. Limiting the % limit on the concentrate/unfinished compound makes no sense as dilution makes all the difference.
Now I no longer have my box for TdH edt, but the box for the parfum indicates 79% alc content. Assuming, conservatively, that the edt has the same 21% concentration as the parfum... that would mean a IES concentration in the finished product of only about 11.5% (.55x.21). Far, far below the 21.4%.
What are you guys thinking? Chill out.
Sure, TdH may have been reformed. And TdH may have even been reformed in response to an IFRA standard concerning a different restriced or prohibited ingredient that only Hermes or JCE know about. But, TdH was not reformed due to IFRA's IES restriction.