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RAVE (No Rants!): Come on and gush about your latest perfume crush.

post #1 of 104
8/3/12 at 7:03pm
Thread Starter 
I see people fight about what's good or what's not enough around here! This thread is a place to share impressions on perfume you've just bought, revisited, or tested for the first time and that you think is really, really great! Please, be as gushy or as zen-like as you please. This is a rave, after all.

PLUR: Peace Love Unity and Respect was the saying of the old raver culture. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PLUR That culture is seen by some as tacky and silly, probably seems outdated now, but drugs aside, I think the idea of PLUR can really benefit how we talk about pleasures and try to share them with others outside of the usual commercial promotion. We don't all have to buy each of these perfumes, but we can all at least hear about them. Designer or niche, new or vintage, anything. Let the raves roll in.

OH, and absolutely no rants please. Negativity is a fact of life as an adult, but let's let the put-downs rest. If you hate a perfume someone else is raving about, just post something else that you like. We all understand that our tastes differ. I just want to document those fun moments of surprise and scented bliss.
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post #2 of 104
8/3/12 at 7:48pm
TTT (too tired today), will do over the weekend, got two this year. And two and a half last year.

Where do you live on the Mississippi?
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post #3 of 104
8/3/12 at 7:53pm
My latest perfume crush is a little wonder in a green box called Calypso Chevrefeuille. A delicious honeysuckle EdT that makes me feel like Tinkerbell or another green fairy creature, hovering over a huge open bloom. What was Tinkerbell's job function, anyway? Oh And Calypso as a hpuse has this seductive and comforting and non-edgy vibe that reminds me a big reclining chair. This stuff rocks.
Also I am an having an ongoing flirtation which could develop into something deeper with that winning Neroli brought to us by the good people over at Annick Goutal. Another daydream...
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post #4 of 104
8/3/12 at 8:46pm
What a fun thread! I can't wait to read what others have discovered. As a newbie I've been sniffing & testing everything I can get my hands on. It's so hard to choose just one, but I'll be fair & play by the rules...

Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia
This is such a bright, beautiful composition of lily & ylang that just kisses my skin throughout the workday. It's hard to find a scent for this hot Florida summer that doesn't feel heavy or fade in a moment. This little beauty is my secret weapon. Had to get a FB.
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post #5 of 104
8/3/12 at 8:56pm
I know this is the womens section but I will chime in anyways . I had the chance to test Dolce & Gabbana The One for Men today and I am blown away, this is such a fantastic scent.

As for recent purchases.... the one I love to talk about to all my friends and family is Paco Rabanne Black XS, I really love the smell of the creamy vanilla strawberries .
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post #6 of 104
8/4/12 at 12:22am
Thread Starter 
Happy to see there's interest here! I like hearing about what the lover of a certain perfume loves about that particular perfume by far more than technical analysis, or worse yet, disses.

And to trace slang like "diss" back to its time of origin...

Currently raving on ... 90s designer darlings with oriental-ish vibe in cute packaging ...

Yesterday at an antiques place I chanced upon this initially somewhat off-putting trio. Their images range from a bit tacky, cute, conceptual, suggestive, outright odd, or even elegant, depending on one's points of reference. But I find each of the three bottle designs unique compared to most, and the scents are very representative of their time--recent-vintage classics.

chronologically:

1992's release from Fendi, Asja, nose Jean Guichard, is definitely on my to-buy list. This is the only real love/crush I am promoting here, but the other two are part of the story.



Asja's notes: (according to Fragrantica)

Top- raspberry, peach, lemon and bergamot
Middle- mimose, nutmeg, honey, carnation, cinnamon, orchid, orris root, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, bulgarian rose and egyptian jasmine
Base - sandalwood, amber, musk, benzoin, vanilla, cedar and styrax.)

Asja avoids gourmand nicely in spite of the pyramid. The complex middle is especially striking. The scent is quite classic and vintage seeming. Similar in level of quality to Theorema. Of the three perfumes I am mentioning, Asja is my favorite, and it likely influenced the following two.

1993 saw Kenzo's release of the Sophia Grojsman comp Kashaya.



Fragrantica reports:

Top - apricot, tangerine, bergamot, peach
Middle - jasmine, tuberose, orchid, hyacinth, rose, lily, carnation
Base - sandalwood, amber, vanilla, musk, benzoin and cedar

As you can see, lots of similarity in structure to Asja, but the less complex middle dominated (TMN) by tuberose is less dreamy and refined, more dancing a little suggestively. The bottle looks, as the ad suggests, like a pair of bound hands and "kashaya" seemingly means "eternal love" in Sanskrit. This is the most floral of the three discussed and is also the scent I am most uncertain about here: not a crush, more of a stray out of character flirtation, but at the same time Kashaya is maybe the sexiest, in terms of classically sexy-accessible, curvy, and Ms. Monroe (Asja is more intimidating). This could verge on plasticky for some, but the drydown is pleasing for fashiony casual wear.

1994 saw Nina Ricci release Deci DelÃ*(nose: Jean Guichard, who did Asja above)



Top- apricot, raspberry, osmanthus, peach, boronia and red currant
Middle- freesia, jasmine, sweet pea and rose
Base- cypress, sandalwood, patchouli, resins and vanilla (source: Fragrantica)

Deci DelÃ* matches quite well its bottle--which is kind of a Schiaparelli throwback and bordering on clunky--and name (here-and-there, to and fro?, at least capricious in whimsical way, but i also think de-li-cious for its fruitness), and sees Guichard going for something less insanely heavy than his notorious/infamous Obsession.

Supposedly Deci DelÃ* is a chypre, but I think it straddles into lightish Oriental territory, a precursor to, but much lighter than, Gucci Rush. Like Gucci Rush, it's a bit avant-garde in terms of mismatched phases. Deci DelÃ* is a comfort scent. I see it as ideal for a normally refined woman letting loose and looking for some light cheer. But this cheer is charmingly strange and satisfying like a giddy in-joke. Still, it is, for a near-loud scent, pretty quiet and girlish in the way most Riccis are. I found it imminently repeat-sniffable and not aggressively cheery: simply relaxed and pretty. A departure from the finer Ricci canon, but a fun one, not as dismal as the Belles de line, though whose bottles I really love--so weird.

Fleurine, it seems you have such lovely and feminine tastes; a style I am interested in exploring more. Tinkerbelle was a lamplighter by profession and keeper of the fairy dust that helped all to fly, she looked fabulous and had a temper, she watched over the Lost Boys, and poor little dear had eyes for Peter Pan while he was splitting his time between Wendy and having to explain to Captain Hook that he didn't swing that way. Did anyone else use the toy Tinkerbelle brand perfume as a kid? I was mad for it, hoarding tooth fairy money to buy up the stuff. I didn't even know I was a born perfumista, but look what's been dug up! The closest thing I've found to toy Tinkerbell perfume now is a very, very light application of Gaultier's Ma Dame.

Twolf: St Louis, MO, but only very recently again. I'm originally from here and after several months back, I find 'you can't go home again' is true for me. I'm very connected to the river and traveling up and down it to the different cities North and South, ergo Life on the Mississippi. Plus the Mark Twain reference, he was quintessentially what is actually decent and special about America!
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post #7 of 104
8/4/12 at 12:43am
My latest crush is Montale Sweet Oriental Dream.
To me, it smells almost the same as Keiko's Loukhoum, but it has better longevity and sillage!

I'm anxious to try Ava Luxe and Serge Lutens Loukhoums.
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post #8 of 104
8/4/12 at 2:04am
During my latest trip to Berlin (which happened in february) I was suggested by a kind basenoter to visit the Mekkanische Rose atelier. A small independent local firm run by two german brothers converted to muslims. When I went to their shop I was in a rush and had no time to properly test their fragrances and essential oils so, considering the ridiculously cheap prices, I gabbed two full bottles to properly test at home in a second time: Tuba and Sahara.

What a nice surprise...Tuba is a great, kinda rogugh, straight forward vetiver in the same vein as the Villoresi. Probably I wouldn't classify it as "haute parfumerie" yet it has an incredibly natural quality and a unbelievable price-quality ratio. Sahara was literally stunning. An old-fashioned green chypre with a solid vintage guerlain-ish base of immense beauty. It shares more than a single aspect with both Mitsouko and Sous Le Vent while continuely winking at Jicky EDT with its animalic-vanilla base....Somewhere between classic french perfumery and the oriental school..

Can't wait to go back to Berlin to test the rest of their range....

Let me spend a couple more words on their prices: 50ml EDT sell for something like 35 euros while their EDPs are 10 euros expensier...
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post #9 of 104
8/4/12 at 2:36am
My latest crush is VC&A Gardenia Petale. I had been looking for the ultimate gardenia scent and found this to be the most alluring of all the ones I've tried. It's a well blended creamy gardenia with a bit of powder that stays pretty much the same in the dry down. I fell in love with it instantly, but then, I thought I might find another gardenia that I'd like more, so I tried many other gardenias and acquired some, but in the end, had to buy a full bottle of VC&A. It is one of my favourite scents for summer alongside Carnal Flower, AG Le Chevrefeuille and my favourite layering trio; SL Sa Majeste La Rose+A La Nuit+Bas de Soie.

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:
Originally Posted by alfarom View Post

During my latest trip to Berlin (which happened in february) I was suggested by a kind basenoter to visit the Mekkanische Rose atelier. A small independent local firm run by two german brothers converted to muslims. When I went to their shop I was in a rush and had no time to properly test their fragrances and essential oils so, considering the ridiculously cheap prices, I gabbed two full bottles to properly test at home in a second time: Tuba and Sahara.

Alfarom: I'm going to Berlin in the autumn. Was it a store run by the brothers that you went to? Do you know of any other good perfume stores in Berlin?
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post #10 of 104
8/4/12 at 2:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ladymurasaki View Post

Alfarom: I'm going to Berlin in the autumn. Was it a store run by the brothers that you went to? Do you know of any other good perfume stores in Berlin?

Yes, the store is called Mekkanische Rose (Liebnizstrasse 47 - 10629 Berlin). Also check:

The Corner (Le Labo, Diptyque, Comme Des Garcons, Cire Trudon)
Breathe Cosmethics (Wiener Blut, Escentric Molecules, Sissel Tolaas, Biehl...)
The Different Scent (huge selection of niche)
Quartier 207 (huge selection of niche)
KaDeWe (huge selection of both niche and designer)
Douglas (there are several stores. Sort of a german version of Sephora. There's one on the Kudamm which has a great selection of Lutens and all the Guerlains "exclusives").
Comme Des Garcons (there are a couple of flagship stores but the one on the linienstrasse, stocks all their range of fragrances)

...Hope it helps...
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post #11 of 104
8/4/12 at 9:40am
I would therefore firstly like to rave about the kindness of Basenoters or Basists across the whole world!

You all enabled me to find my first love of 2012 in my Basenoter enabled exploration of the Chanel Exclusifs line. I find it incredible that you enabled me to test all but Gardenia, Jersey and Bel Respiro which I shall test on my next trip to Manchester to take my son to dinner. Many of those you all enabled me to test will be delighted I found many to be FB worthy. However I fell in love with one of the more unusual of the range, often overlooked for its more ornate and baroque sisters and brothers. My enabler for this fragrances told me that "I'll throw x in as it's easy to wear in a jeans and t shirt way" which for a Chanel Exclusifs piqued my interest. On receipt of this care package x was te one I went to spray first. Oh the honey, oh the matchless blend of notes which the honey oozed over and brought these locals together seamlessly. Yes ladies and gentleman my first love of 2012 was Chanel Exclusifs Beige! Under the radar, a creeper which can be worn anytime, any place and anywhere and always be appropriate, always be luxurious and always be beautiful. Those in the know I'm sure all wear perfectly fitting jeans, sparkling white t-shirts, tan boots ith a medium heel polished to a high shine and a Chanel cardigan jacket. She will look and smell effortlessly cool and polished. She will be kind, generous and never parade her knowledge to others but coach and teach them. In fact she will be my enabler. I can only ever aim to become that person, but I started by getting a 200ml bottle of Beige to give me a head start.
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post #12 of 104
8/4/12 at 2:43pm
Oh, I'll follow up on the previous post, as I am a die hard Chanel Exclusifs fan...own many of them and love them dearly.

But...my latest crush is Ava Luxe No. 23. As a lover of Chanel Bois Des Iles, I would have never thought I would stray from that lofty post. Who could do sandalwood and flowers better than Chanel?

Well, I am here to tell you...Ava Luxe No. 23 is my latest, greatest crush. Sandalwood with flowers, and not just any flowers, but a great geranium note that adds a kick to this little gem. I have traveled far in my fragrance search, and have come out with two loves...iris (done well) and woods (done feminine). No iris in No. 23, but instead, a kick of incense and spicy florals that is about as easy to wear as anything I have experienced so far. If you like feminine woods, look no further. This one gushes and announces it's purpose. Not a heavy hitter, but that is one reason I love it to death, it is the smell of me. Not purfumed, not pretensious. Just me.

Ava Luxe No. 23 is perfect. Except for someone that demands BIG perfume. Otherwise, yes, perfect.
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post #13 of 104
8/4/12 at 4:27pm
What a wonderful thread!

I've had 2 perfume crushes this past year, that have each deepened into love. Not the passionate, desperate, swooning love I feel for Chanel's Cuir de Russie, or the exhilarating and soul mate-ish love I feel for Kelly Caleche. This is a quiet and endearing love for these two soft scents, that wear skin close, as if whispering to me. One is Veneta Bottega, with it's salty, light, leathery-ness. The other is Hermes Vanille Galante, which is a succulent, joyous, mind-altering honeysuckle fragrance that brings on a huge smile every time I get a whiff. Pure genious.
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post #14 of 104
8/4/12 at 4:43pm
My first rave goes to Basenotes. I just love this place. My most recent rave juice is Eau de Quinine by Crown Perfumery... totally unique. Rave On!
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post #15 of 104
8/4/12 at 4:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfarom View Post

Yes, the store is called Mekkanische Rose (Liebnizstrasse 47 - 10629 Berlin). Also check:

The Corner (Le Labo, Diptyque, Comme Des Garcons, Cire Trudon)
Breathe Cosmethics (Wiener Blut, Escentric Molecules, Sissel Tolaas, Biehl...)
The Different Scent (huge selection of niche)
Quartier 207 (huge selection of niche)
KaDeWe (huge selection of both niche and designer)
Douglas (there are several stores. Sort of a german version of Sephora. There's one on the Kudamm which has a great selection of Lutens and all the Guerlains "exclusives").
Comme Des Garcons (there are a couple of flagship stores but the one on the linienstrasse, stocks all their range of fragrances)

...Hope it helps...

Cheers, alfarom!
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post #16 of 104
8/4/12 at 5:18pm
My new crush is Nuit de Tubereuse by L'Artisan. All that earthy incense, leather and spice floating around a carnal flower is too much for me to resist. On my second decant, going for the bottle.
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post #17 of 104
8/4/12 at 7:22pm
I wish more people would try Lutens-Bois Oriental. It is so incredible, but no one ever talks about it. A boozy cedar that gets in your lungs and just puts you on the moon.
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post #18 of 104
8/4/12 at 8:17pm
I've indulged in a few purchases this summer that seemed perfect for the coming cooler weather this Autumn. I could not resist spraying and wearing them, and I have found that these "cool weather" fragrances are stunning in warm weather, also. (At least to me....)
Serge Lutens Five o'Clock Gingembre
Parfums de Nicolai Vanille Intense
Ava Luxe Kama
Dior Addict
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post #19 of 104
8/5/12 at 1:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumquat View Post

I wish more people would try Lutens-Bois Oriental. It is so incredible, but no one ever talks about it. A boozy cedar that gets in your lungs and just puts you on the moon.

You're right. Some perfumes seem to slip into sleeper-state. I also really like Bois Oriental and wish it got more publicity here. I guess being a Paris exclusive, it is defaulted to its current state.
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post #20 of 104
8/5/12 at 2:17am


Mitsouko, Guerlain. Got about 3-4 ml of the stuff from Jujy on our lunch date and have just kept it on since. Mitsouko is a beautiful, feminine, pretty little ball of mystery. And on my skin it lasts forever, the little dab I put on at lunch with Jujy was still there after being outdoors in the heat all day,sleeping in it, and showering the next day. At first sniff I get a really heavy fruity quality which lasts a while like citrus, and peach, but it has a note that's sort of biscuit-like I see peaches arranged in a tart. I get a little spice. The flowers are muted, and I definitely get the roses and jasmine in the drydown though they're not very strong. along with slightly powdery woods. I enjoy it incredible longevity on my skin, not too heavy for the summer. I may need to invest in more of this either in decant form or buying a bottle. Definitely something for casual use along with No Regrets [have to say I'm finding a similarity in the two even though they're nothing alike will test them side by side and analyze]
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post #21 of 104
8/5/12 at 2:25am
I have a couple of crushes, unrequited so far. Aaaw! I really fancy a few of the Dior Privée, thanks to the legendary generosity of someone not too far away (him ^^ two above) in enabling me to try them, Ambre Nuit and Granville in particular. I am dizzy about the Sandalwood in Tom Ford's Santal Blush. Now that one wasn't love at first sight, it was discovered when I opened my closet the following day and had a rush of olfactory ecstasy, coming off the sleeve of my jacket!!

My actual current squeeze is my new Monegal, Impossible Iris, which is impossibly delightful, and my real knee trembler is when I get Mr F to wear Casamorati Fiero, but I only have a sample. Ha Ha!!

Lovely thread!
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post #22 of 104
8/5/12 at 12:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post

You're right. Some perfumes seem to slip into sleeper-state. I also really like Bois Oriental and wish it got more publicity here. I guess being a Paris exclusive, it is defaulted to its current state.

Good, I'm glad I'm not the only one who knows about this. It's so rich, I'm sure if the formula was changed to wood alcohol for import, it would be ruined. The best way for us to lay our hands on the bell jars is to contact the Shopfranceinc gal on EBay. If anyone knows of a better way, fill us in!
BTW-Beauxbatons, good for you zeroing in on Mitsouko. It really is glorious!

My absolute favorite right now is Lutens-Fleurs d'Oranger. Swimming in sunny orange blossom! I can't get enough of it!
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post #23 of 104
8/5/12 at 12:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumquat View Post

I'm sure if the formula was changed to wood alcohol for import, it would be ruined.

What do you mean, Kumquat? Am I missing something?
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post #24 of 104
8/5/12 at 12:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumquat View Post

The best way for us to lay our hands on the bell jars is to contact the Shopfranceinc gal on EBay. If anyone knows of a better way, fill us in!

I've purchased from this wonderful lady as well. She's currently on another trip to France & was taking orders before she left last week. May still be able to contact her for availability & price quotes.
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post #25 of 104
8/5/12 at 1:04pm
Yes, this is my big discovery. I learned from the woman who fetches perfume from France. Their perfume must be potable- not poisonous. So it is made from the highest quality alcohol. It is akin to grain alcohol. It also makes the perfume especially creamy smelling. Stuff that is imported to the States must be made of cheap wood alcohol. Leftover laws from prohibition. It must be poisonous. Like anyone would actually drink it! It makes the stuff smell more harsh. They keep doing it this way because it's cheaper.
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post #26 of 104
8/5/12 at 1:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumquat View Post

Yes, this is my big discovery. I learned from the woman who fetches perfume from France. Their perfume must be potable- not poisonous. So it is made from the highest quality alcohol. It is akin to grain alcohol. It also makes the perfume especially creamy smelling. Stuff that is imported to the States must be made of cheap wood alcohol. Leftover laws from prohibition. It must be poisonous. Like anyone would actually drink it! It makes the stuff smell more harsh. They keep doing it this way because it's cheaper.

Dear Lord, I didn't know that...As far as you know, does it work for every fragrance they export in any country?
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post #27 of 104
8/5/12 at 1:35pm
Export laws vary, I'm sure. I'd guess the cheap stuff goes to the states.
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post #28 of 104
8/5/12 at 1:45pm
Sorry guys and gals for hijacking the thread...now I shut up! Promise!
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post #29 of 104
8/5/12 at 2:02pm
It seems to be my habit to crush on a 'fume every 3 months or so, where I have that one that I'm almost always in the mood to wear. This past winter, it was vintage Weil Antilope, especially for its classic drydown, which can best be described as a less civet-y version of My Sin. Antilope has no extremes about it; notes of anisic aldehydes or tarragon, muguet, clary sage, sandalwood, musk, and that little bit of civet. Now, our friend LiliB experiences it quite differently—a chacun son nez!

The summer has given me over to Oscar de la Renta's Volupté, a well-composed green floral by Sophia Grojsman, she of Trésor, White Linen and too many others to mention. Fragrantica lists:
Quote:
Top notes are mimose, melon, mandarin orange, freesia, osmanthus, watermelon and cyclamen; middle notes are carnation, jasmine, heliotrope, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, narcissus, lotus and peony; base notes are sandalwood, amber, patchouli, incense, tuberose and vanilla.

Attachment 15666

I agree with these notes—yes, one can have green without galbanum!—and in reviewing them I now understand how a sequence of fragrances I prepared for fellow Base-ist Beauxbatons13 at our wonderful fumy lunch indeed makes sense. I went from oriental to green in this order: Queen by Queen Latifah, Ralph Hot, Carlos Santana for Women, and finally Volupté. It is indeed green and floral, with a turn to woody and incense in its pleasant, close to the skin, long-lasting drydown.

What will fall bring? Not sure, but I feel an affair with Magie Noire coming on...
LL
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post #30 of 104
8/5/12 at 2:10pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfarom View Post

Sorry guys and gals for hijacking the thread...now I shut up! Promise!

No need to be sorry or shut up on this thread!

Quote:
Stuff that is imported to the States must be made of cheap wood alcohol. Leftover laws from prohibition. It must be poisonous. Like anyone would actually drink it! It makes the stuff smell more harsh. They keep doing it this way because it's cheaper."

This here thread is also a Speakeasy, and all of the other havens and hangouts to which raves owed their heritage. And as such, we have to protest prohibition laws around here. I really can't believe it! That crazy law messing up perfume still today in America. And of course most people would think, oh it's just perfume, who cares? But just another example of low standards of production in America leading to more waste and less quality. Hahah, maybe I'll lobby for a change in DC next time I'm doing it for the more serious issues. Hippie friends would be SCANDALIZED.

That's the great thing about perfume to me though, it's scandalizing, but not too much so.

I remember reading in one of my favorite shorter books Little Tenement on the Volga, that during communist bloc years, revelers at weddings would drink perfume in the absence of alcohol, some dying. Talk about laughing and crying at the same time.

PLURing on RAVEy vibes, I'm already psyched to check out Mekkanische Rose next time I'm in Berlin (my favorite city in Europe!...or is the rave associatin obvious) and to test the Chanel Exclusifs. I don't feel this thread is a bad influence tempting one to spend money or anything (oooh peer pressure) but more of a grounds for To-Test ideas.

That said, gotta rave on my above-mentioned crush Asja by Fendi again! Went back and bought the little partially full vintage mini, and this composition is just quiet enough, mysterious, clovey and earnestly, classically oriental spiced. Just right! A less cuddly oriental: more serene.
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post #31 of 104
8/5/12 at 11:05pm
Not sure whether it belongs here, but since it's my first attempt to post on this thread, my post might not be that on-topic.

Yet, I have to commend and point out the newly released more concentrated version of Voyage d'Hermes.

Same classic with higher strength and/or longevity, projection etc., plus definitely unisex, I could both genders wear this great scent with ease.
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post #32 of 104
8/6/12 at 12:37am
I have a crush on Les Nereides Douceur de La Vanille at this moment.
It is so comforting and snuggable (if that's a word!!) I always feel
more forgiving and chilled when I have this on.
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post #33 of 104
8/6/12 at 1:32am
amouage epic and memoir. when i smelled both of them for the first time, i had an OMG moment! i knew straight away that i WILL HAVE TO HAVE THEM!
they've just taken my breath away and i was literally hyperventilating (going inside, 'calm down, calm the f**k down, what's wrong with you, you've smelled perfumes before!').
i now own them both after striking lucky on ebay (bnib, sealed, at about 40% off their retail value, could not afford the full price, even discounted i find them expensive but what the hell, only my credit card is hurting).
i find these the most luxurious, ott (in a good way) perfumes i smelled and now own.
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post #34 of 104
8/6/12 at 1:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by danny1967 View Post

amouage epic and memoir. when i smelled both of them for the first time, i had an OMG moment! i knew straight away that i WILL HAVE TO HAVE THEM!
they've just taken my breath away and i was literally hyperventilating (going inside, 'calm down, calm the f**k down, what's wrong with you, you've smelled perfumes before!').
i now own them both after striking lucky on ebay (bnib, sealed, at about 40% off their retail value, could not afford the full price, even discounted i find them expensive but what the hell, only my credit card is hurting).
i find these the most luxurious, ott (in a good way) perfumes i smelled and now own.

hahah hilarious
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post #35 of 104
8/6/12 at 3:26am
I not only have a crush on Jicky, but we're in bed together.
Ah yes, there is Sous le Vent also... she does not know of Jicky...
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post #36 of 104
8/6/12 at 7:30am
Thanks for the nice thread, anomie et ivoire! I love it!

And I'm delighted to add to it by gushing a bit about my latest fling, Guerlain's Shalimar Parfum Initial, the very first Shalimar I can wear, and truly adore!

I came across this at a duty-free on my way to China a few weeks ago, and the only reason I picked it up and sniffed the cap was the beautiful Jade Jagger-designed flacon, but what I sniffed pleased me enough to spritz, and the rest is history. Parfum Initial just isn't at all what I had anticipated - I guess I was expecting another Shalimar light, but this is completely different. It seems simple, really - an exquisite, tender iris over a just-sweet-enough base of rich amber and creamy vanilla, with a non-gourmand touch of caramel which is probably responsible for the trace saltiness, and adds a very sensuous and personal element. It manages to be quite intimate for something so lush, and just fresh enough for something so opulent and velvety ...it's perhaps the most perfect "iris skin scent" I've ever come across, lol! There's something about it that smells like it's meant to adorn a nude body, or perhaps one lightly draped in silk charmeuse. It's not dirty or skanky at all, just sort of carnal ...which might be due to the musk as well as that slight saltiness. But as sexy and sultry as it is, it also works perfectly well on a fully-dressed body as I discovered in Hong Kong and also Tokyo, which I thought was significant due to the trend in Japan for "clean" perfumes that don't really smell like anything, and especially not perfume. I deliberately wore just a touch (it's not light!) in the evenings and it did get noticed, but only in a very positive way. I got several compliments on how nice I smelled, rather than how nice my perfume smelled, and also a few extra-long hugs from little kids! I think these are the best and most sincere sorts of compliment one can receive.

Now for the technical bits, just fyi. Shalimar Parfum Initial was created in 2011 by Thierry Wasser, and it contains notes of bergamot, orange, iris, vetiver, jasmine, patchouli, rose, musk, benzoin, vanilla, and caramel.
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post #37 of 104
8/6/12 at 7:37am
It's unbelievable, I was gonna start a thread doing the same thing! Guess I got beaten to the punch ;-)

My latest obsession is the Tom Ford Private Blends. More specifically Italian Cypress. I've tried to avoid TFs because I had bad experiences (in the olfactory) seance with TF for men and TF extreme. I really didn't like them but, I'm glad I chose to give the PBs a try. Of the ones I tried, I would be happy to welcome them into my fragrance family at home. The only, slight criticism of them is that the longevity is sub par. But at the end of the day, you but scents for the scent, not for the longevity. Or at least - I don't
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post #38 of 104
8/6/12 at 7:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by anomie et ivoire View Post

...Did anyone else use the toy Tinkerbelle brand perfume as a kid? I was mad for it, hoarding tooth fairy money to buy up the stuff. I didn't even know I was a born perfumista, but look what's been dug up! The closest thing I've found to toy Tinkerbell perfume now is a very, very light application of Gaultier's Ma Dame.

I had Tinkerbell sets, too! But you know, like everything else, they've also been reformulated through the years. Actually, I think my very first experience with reformulation was with the Tinkerbell cologne. I must have gone through a couple of the little sets (I used those tiny bottles up quickly, especially anything you were supposed to dump in the bath, lol) when I got a new set one year and immediately noticed that the cologne was completely different. I suppose I still liked it since I used it, but I do remember missing the original. As I recall, the one I liked was a crisp and delicate floral, probably lily-of-the-valley, and it wasn't very sweet ...nothing like Ma Dame. But of course, I'm talking about vintage-70s Tinkerbell, lol! Was yours pink?
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post #39 of 104
8/6/12 at 8:06am
I'm having a big love thing with Guerlain's Spiriteuse Double Vanille. Tried it in Harrods a week or so ago and have been in every day - just to make sure. Today, I finally did it! I can't even spray ti, I just gaze in wonder at the bottle and the atomiser. Tomorrow, I'll go back to Harrods and spray from the tester again. My own bottle it too perfect............maybe next week I'll actually use it.
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post #40 of 104
8/6/12 at 8:09am
Not a new fling but really a renewed love affair . You know.... like a couple who have known each other since high school but somehow drifted apart and married other people ? Then all of the sudden , they meet again ,fall in love and get together ??
Let me introduce you to my new spouse ( don't tell DH ) ..... Frederic Malle's Carnal Flower.
We have previously fallen in love, got bored with each other ,got separated and then decided to get back together again. I love you Carnal Flower......
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post #41 of 104
8/6/12 at 8:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by deepblue View Post

I just gaze in wonder at the bottle and the atomiser. Tomorrow, I'll go back to Harrods and spray from the tester again. My own bottle it's too perfect............maybe next week I'll actually use it.

i know EXACTLY WHAT YOU MEAN!!! god! and i thought i was the only one.... i'm so relieved. lol.
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post #42 of 104
8/6/12 at 8:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumquat View Post

Yes, this is my big discovery. I learned from the woman who fetches perfume from France. Their perfume must be potable- not poisonous. So it is made from the highest quality alcohol. It is akin to grain alcohol. It also makes the perfume especially creamy smelling. Stuff that is imported to the States must be made of cheap wood alcohol. Leftover laws from prohibition. It must be poisonous. Like anyone would actually drink it! It makes the stuff smell more harsh. They keep doing it this way because it's cheaper.

Thanks Kumquat! There really IS a difference with the perfumes from NON US .
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post #43 of 104
8/6/12 at 8:46am
My latest fling has been Creed's Virgin Island Water. Just a great summer fragrance. It was something of an unexpected buy. I bought the teenie bottle (*huge* mistake), and it's about half gone. Just love this stuff. I'm trying other things every day, but when I simply want something to enjoy, VIW is what goes on.

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post #44 of 104
8/6/12 at 9:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumquat View Post

Yes, this is my big discovery. I learned from the woman who fetches perfume from France. Their perfume must be potable- not poisonous. So it is made from the highest quality alcohol. It is akin to grain alcohol. It also makes the perfume especially creamy smelling. Stuff that is imported to the States must be made of cheap wood alcohol. Leftover laws from prohibition. It must be poisonous. Like anyone would actually drink it! It makes the stuff smell more harsh. They keep doing it this way because it's cheaper.

I'm sure this is an urban legend. Wood alcohol (methanol) is highly toxic. As little as 10 ml. can blind you by destroying the optic nerve and 30 ml. can kill you. Products containing methanol (car antifreeze, antifreeze in windshield washer fluid, fuel mixtures, various cleaning fluids and solvents) have to be plastered with warning labels so people don't drink them. Methanol can be absorbed into the body by inhalation or skin absorption as well as ingestion, which would, of course, make it highly unsuitable as a perfume solvent.

Methanol is notoriously sweet tasting and pleasant to drink (pets have been killing by lapping up leaked car antifreeze). Given the propensity of alcoholics to drink anything available in a shortage of beverage grade materials, I am sure there would be many perfume poisonings if methanol was the solvent in the U.S., followed by an FDA ban on all fragrances.

I have heard that perfume alcohol is adulterated with something to make it unpleasant to drink but they can't be using methanol in large quantities.

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post

That is also very interesting information, BurgundyMarsh - thank you for that.

If it IS methanol in there, dump all your perfumes down the toilet immediately!
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post #45 of 104
8/6/12 at 9:20am
That is also very interesting information, BurgundyMarsh - thank you for that.
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post #46 of 104
8/6/12 at 9:33am
Burgundy, I don't know if it's an urban legend or not, about methanol being in domestic made perfumes, but I sure know how sweet it is and how dangerous. I have a crew of pets, and have to make certain there is no antifreeze anywhere. Advantage of the obvious sweet taste is figuring out if that's what's leaking from your vehicle!

My current perfume crush isn't brand new, but it is recent, it's Habanita. I sit outside and just breathe it in till I feel slightly drunk. Wonderful!
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post #47 of 104
8/6/12 at 9:48am
http://www.gcimagazine.com/business/.../27628479.html

I found this article. At the bottom it describes the difference.

Alcohol, denatured: In the U.S., ethyl alcohol, also known as ethanol or grain alcohol, is used in fine fragrances and it must be denatured to ensure a very bitter and unpleasant taste, to deter potential consumption and taxation as an alcoholic beverage by the federal government. In Europe, the actual fragrance oils are considered to be the effective deterrent to potability.
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post #48 of 104
8/6/12 at 9:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evangeline View Post

.......Parfum Initial[/COLOR] just isn't at all what I had anticipated - I guess I was expecting another Shalimar light, but this is completely different. It seems simple, really - an exquisite, tender iris over a just-sweet-enough base of rich amber and creamy vanilla, with a non-gourmand touch of caramel which is probably responsible for the trace saltiness, and adds a very sensuous and personal element. It manages to be quite intimate for something so lush, and just fresh enough for something so opulent and velvety ...it's perhaps the most perfect "iris skin scent" I've ever come across, lol! There's something about it that smells like it's meant to adorn a nude body, or perhaps one lightly draped in silk charmeuse. It's not dirty or skanky at all, just sort of carnal ...which might be due to the musk as well as that slight saltiness. But as sexy and sultry as it is, it also works perfectly well on a fully-dressed body as I discovered in Hong Kong and also Tokyo,....

Wow! What a fantastic post Evangeline! You have totally nailed something of this great fragrance. I am so glad that you discovered it.
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post #49 of 104
8/6/12 at 9:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumquat View Post

http://www.gcimagazine.com/business/.../27628479.html

I found this article. At the bottom it describes the difference.

Alcohol, denatured: In the U.S., ethyl alcohol, also known as ethanol or grain alcohol, is used in fine fragrances and it must be denatured to ensure a very bitter and unpleasant taste, to deter potential consumption and taxation as an alcoholic beverage by the federal government. In Europe, the actual fragrance oils are considered to be the effective deterrent to potability.

Thanks again Kumquat!
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post #50 of 104
8/6/12 at 10:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumquat View Post

http://www.gcimagazine.com/business/.../27628479.html

I found this article. At the bottom it describes the difference.

Alcohol, denatured: In the U.S., ethyl alcohol, also known as ethanol or grain alcohol, is used in fine fragrances and it must be denatured to ensure a very bitter and unpleasant taste, to deter potential consumption and taxation as an alcoholic beverage by the federal government. In Europe, the actual fragrance oils are considered to be the effective deterrent to potability.

This is probably correct.

Denatured alcohol is just standard grain alcohol (also known as ethanol or ethyl alcohol) which has had something added to it to make it unpleasant to drink. Sometimes ethanol has been "denatured" with about 10% methanol (sometimes called "Metholated Spirits,") but this is probably not the case in perfume alcohol because of the nigh toxicity of methanol (there are several other non-toxic additives that can be used and metholated spirits are also plastered with toxicity warnings). My guess is that the confusion over the different kinds of denatured alcohol led to the misconception that perfumes in the U.S. are made with methanol (wood alcohol) instead of the ethanol (grain alcohol) used in Europe, whereas in fact they are both made with ethanol with various additives.

I would further guess that perfumers have figured out how to make denatured ethanol that does not dramatically affect the smell of the fragrance. There might be some difference, depending on the additive, but it would probably be very subtle or even nominal (to avoid import duties), given that European perfume houses wouldn't want to ruin the export market to the U.S.
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post #51 of 104
8/6/12 at 10:28am
Evangeline have you tried the Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau? I prefer it to even Parfum Initial.

Now my second love of 2012 discovered through Mr Ali. Having discovered I do enjoy orientals other than Opium in direct equivalence to the level of amber vanilla in the base we were passing through Debenhams and I had a spritz of EL Amber Ylang Ylang. As we spent the afternoon shopping Mr Ali kept lifting my arm to sniff. Returning to the car through Debenhams he steered me back to the EL counter and insisting on buying me a gift of the large bottle of the EdP. I was flabbergasted!
A) he is largely anosmic
B) he usually thinks everything smells of toilet block

Whilst we shared our week off work I wore the Amber Ylang Ylang and each time I did it grew on me as well as Mr Ali but was a little disappointed with longevity next to the othe EL Private Collection scents. It grew on my so much I hunted out 30ml bottle of extrait which is just purrfect.

It really is like wearing the silkiest softest cashmere wrap and it now smells to me like the grown up, mature love of the man I've spent the last 27 years of my life with

- - - Updated - - -

As for the Speakeasy part of this thread, in the UK hospitals had put alcohol hand rub dispensers at the entrance to and on the walls of wards to remind staff and encourage is intros and patients to optimise hand hygiene.

It was found that certain groups of patients and visitors were ingesting this. It must taste vile! Good gracious what lengths some will go to for a drink. These dispensers have now been removed from many wards where they cannot be seen at all times by staff.
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post #52 of 104
8/6/12 at 1:41pm
Latest crushes:

Lust by Lush, seriously warm jasmine bomb!
Ramon Monegal- Ambra di Luna- gorgeous amber and vanilla
Big time crush that I just ran out of samples of- Jo Malone Vanilla and Anise.


An Evening Edged In Gold- Ineke.
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post #53 of 104
8/6/12 at 3:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alityke View Post

Evangeline have you tried the Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau? I prefer it to even Parfum Initial.

Not yet, but it's definitely on my test list. Although honestly, I've been so anti-Shalimar for so long, and I'm so smitten with Parfum Initial, that I can't even imagine finding another Shalimar as beautiful, not to mention more so! I feel like that would really be pressing my luck, lol. But we shall see!

kalli - I love Lust too, but I need to learn to apply it more sparingly than almost anything else I own. You're right - it's a real jasmine bomb!
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post #54 of 104
8/6/12 at 3:38pm
Sparingly is right! Such a good price on that Lust too. Need to try more things from Lush, like pronto!
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post #55 of 104
8/6/12 at 3:57pm
2 more raves .
1. Chanel Gardenia in extrait. One of my earlier loves and I believe it always will be. I desperately desire and covet the 900 ml extrait bottle . One day , one day , one day .

2.Clive Christian's No .1 for Women. This one doesn't have a good reputation on Basenotes IMHO . Mainly the price factor and the horrendous marketing does it no favors really.
However, the scent itself is exquisite. It took me a good while to finally appreciate it but I do love it. The bottle is totally terrible though.
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post #56 of 104
8/6/12 at 5:15pm
Thread Starter 
Here's a little rave: for everyone posting on this thread! Such variety in tastes! The classics, niche, vintage, all of it represented. There's love to be found all around.

Evangeline - Now I'm going to sample Shalimar Parfum Initial. Been wearing a lot of vintage Shalimar and wouldn't be looking to replace that, but I'm curious about Initial, seeing as supposedly very great care was taken with finding a newer and fresher grade of bergamot and to lighten the other citruses.

My Tinkerbell was the early 90s version and came in a mock-porcelain perfume jar. I recall it smelling both soft like you said, but also with a bit of ultra-sweet bite to it, like the grenadine in Ma Dame--probably happened in the 80s when even children's perfume was likely made louder (I'm seeing little kids with hairsprayed bangs and shoulderpads). The Tinkerbell set also came with powderpuff and pressed powder--smelling to my perhaps faulty memory a bit like Meteorites-- and a lipstick that smelled like Lifesavers. Oh silly nostalgia, but the smell-memory is fairly clear and instantly happy-making!

danny1967 - getting Stendhal syndrome from a perfume? Fantastic! I sort of got it from vintage L'Heure Bleue but have yet to experience the hyperventilating revelation you have. Glorious!
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post #57 of 104
8/6/12 at 7:15pm
My latest crush is Bond Andy Warhol. I know that Bond is a very unpopular brand to some here, but since no rants allowed, I can rave with no guilt.

Andy Warhol was a very impromptu purchase ... I had planned on buying High Line. I did have it on my list to sniff, however, along with a few other Bonds that I had not tried yet. One sniff and I was hooked ... I lost all memory of buying High Line. I had tested HL numerous times, had gone through a nice-sized decant and knew that I would be happy owning it. Good lord, I had not even properly sniffed Andy Warhol yet, but here I was telling the SA to ring it up. It was if I had no control over my actions ... pulling out my debit card without really knowing it ... it must have been the plum and incense notes. They just swirl around my brain and turn me into a quivering pile of goo. All the way home, I had buyers remorse. How could I spend so much on a fragrance I hadn't even worn all day? My first full wearing, my fears were put to rest ... I loved Andy and by the amount of compliments I get when I wear it, Andy loves me too. No more remorse ...


Notes (from the Bond NY site): Italian Bergamot Zest, Cypriot India, Provence Blue Cypress, Plum, Jasmine de Grasse, Sultan Agarwood, Rose Centifolia, White Patchouli, Cistus, Red Sandalwood, Vanilla Bean Madasgascar, Oriental Musk and Olibanum Tears
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post #58 of 104
8/6/12 at 7:33pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurgundyMarsh View Post

If it IS methanol in there, dump all your perfumes down the toilet immediately!

I understand that you mean to warn people to get rid of the perfume if it contains methanol. However, since I'm married to an environmental engineer, I feel obligated to add that under NO circumstances should anyone ever dump perfume, edt, edp or edc down the toilet. Please dispose in an environmentally responsible manner.

Rave....Chanel #22. I avoided this for many years believing that the aldehydes would give me an instant headache. I was wrong, so wrong. This has to be one of the most beautiful dry downs of any fragrance I have ever, ever worn.
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post #59 of 104
8/6/12 at 7:38pm
fwiw, anti-freeze is usually ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. Still not potable, and alluringly sweet to animals, which may be why propylene glycol is now used as it is non-toxic.
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post #60 of 104
8/6/12 at 7:52pm
My crush lately has been Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire.

Top notes: Black cherry, Bergamot, Red berries, Almond
Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, Turkish rose, Licorice, Smoked black tea
Base notes: Aniseed, Tonka bean, Vanilla, Iris and Patchouli
(according to Basenotes)

I've wanted this one for some time, but it wasn't sold in the US. Finally
it became available at Sephora. So glad, as it's really nice to wear and fairly
long lasting. Also, a very cute bottle!
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