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New here, been experimenting.

post #1 of 8
8/26/12 at 11:52am
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Hi,
I am new here and i`ve been experimenting, i would welcome any help or ideas.
I currently have Cool Water and Hugo Boss and i have been trying to work out what makes them so fresh.
I have however used Jazz before which is more spicy
Before going out and buying lots of essential oils (we have a few round the house - patchouli and cedarwood from pot-pourri)
I raided the kitchen cupboards and tried the following -

0.5 cup vodka as a tester. 10 cardamom pods, some caraway seeds, 4 bay leaves, 1 cinnamon stick and 2 cloves.
after 4 days it smells not bad - a bit like Old Spice (surprisingly!)
i tried one batch adding 1 drop of cedar and then another with 1 drop mint and 1 drop grapefruit that i just bought to try and freshen it up a bit

Any ideas on how to make it last a bit longer?
The one with grapefruit seems to keep the grapefruit and cardamom notes longest

In advance Thanks.
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post #2 of 8
8/29/12 at 3:19pm
don't use grapefruit it will go rancid on the skin

for a grapefruit note unfortunately you need to head down the synthetic path
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post #3 of 8
8/30/12 at 12:40am
I invite you to read the primer on how to make perfume, on the main DIY page. If you want to make an actual perfume you should use essential oils and aromachemicals, not directly the plant raw material. If you want to use what you have in the kitchen try instead to make various separate tinctures and then add them to your compositions. Last but not least, use pure alcohol instead of vodka, that's a pretty crucial point.
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post #4 of 8
8/30/12 at 1:53am
using vodka will give you a stronger presence of topnotes though. same concept as the high water content of an "after shave". it all depends on what you want to do in the end.

You'll never end up with anything near to Boss, Jazz, or Cool water mixing cardamom pods and bay leaves, otocione is right, aromachemicals as a rule of thumb will make up about 80% of formulas considered to be mainstream fragrances. It is a fairly complicated science and I'd suggest reading through at least a few books on the subject before jumping in, you'll waste a lot less $$ experimenting and being frustrated.

Learning to "make perfume" is something that takes a good couple of years of heavy time investment. As in, day job hours.
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post #5 of 8
8/30/12 at 3:57am
Just to return to the OP's original question, I believe the main ingredient in both Cool Water and Hugo Boss that gives them the fresh note is Calone (though in both cases there are a lot of other things involved too obviously).
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post #6 of 8
9/1/12 at 8:10pm
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Yes, Calone and allyl amyl glucolate in a generous percentage. The latter one being a solid favourite of Mr Polge as I can sense it in abundance in all of his male creations since Platinum Egoiste.
Chris, I must contact you about Terranol (any chance you can get hold of aldron as well?).
Sorry about the delay, I only just landed to my Athenian computer from outer space. :-)
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post #7 of 8
9/2/12 at 12:42am
As far as I can remember there is no Calone in Cool Water. The key accord is Dihydro Myrceol, Allyl Amyl Glycolate and Ambroxan.
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post #8 of 8
9/2/12 at 3:06am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post

As far as I can remember there is no Calone in Cool Water. The key accord is Dihydro Myrceol, Allyl Amyl Glycolate and Ambroxan.

A fast internet search confirms the existence of Calone in both Cool Waters (male/female) and to be honest I'd be surprised if it wasn't there, given the trend of the time it was created and the name of the perfume as well. I don't have any bottle here to sniff and personally verify it; this perfume I find very annoying and only tried it once or twice in my lifetime.
David, you are right on the the main accord, if my memory serves me well it was something like
20% dihydromyrcenol - 3% allylamyl glycolate - 10% ambroxan..correct me if I'm wrong.
Anyone knows a basic accord of KOUROS btw? Same nose I presume, but an infinitely better perfume.
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