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Herbal Feminines?

post #1 of 24
10/5/12 at 2:02pm
Thread Starter 
Herbal as a term gets thrown around for masculine fougeres often enough. Sometimes the term 'medicinal' is used for the herbaceous when coupled with spiciness. I just know that I love herbal smells. Go to a health food store or botanical herb garden? Swoon from the deep, earthy smell so full of character, so grandly eternal!

Some feminine ~"herbals":

Jicky
some Aqua Allegorias
lots of Miller Harris
Ambre Sultan


So, what does herbal mean to you in fragrance? A real definition of the term is not really out there/somewhat abstract, as something needn't be an herb to smell herbal and v/v. Lavender, tonka, medicinals? Hmm. There must be more. Do you know any good herbal feminines?
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post #2 of 24
10/5/12 at 2:14pm
I like Gypsy Water
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post #3 of 24
10/5/12 at 2:22pm
Clinique Wrappings the zenith of herbal feminines. Not particularly spicey but certainly herbal. Rosemary, bay, bitter aloes and citrus. Wonderful!

Also the wintergreen opening of Tubereuse Criminelle
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post #4 of 24
10/5/12 at 2:35pm
When I think of an herbal fragrance I usually think of Habanita, but the notes, don't really back that up.

Here are a few others I thought of:
Basil- Lime, Basil & Mandarin-Jo Malone
Anise- Vanilla & Anise- Jo Malone
Cardamon and coriander- Un Jardin Apres la Mousson- Hermes
Sage and Basil- Eau de Sud- Annick Goutal
Bay Leaves- Blackberry & Bay- Jo Malone
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post #5 of 24
10/5/12 at 3:03pm
I don't see any problems for a woman to wear most masculine aromatic fougeres.

Stuff that comes to mind marketed to women include many Avedas, which, being supposedly organic, need to make
abundant use of herbs for structure and variety (eg Yatra, or many of the Chakras); a few Diptyques (Eau de Dyptique, Virgilio, etc.), a few Lutens (not just AS, also Arabie, for instance), and even Apres l'Ondee has a clear herbal bouquet.

cacio
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post #6 of 24
10/5/12 at 3:23pm
Shiso by Aftelier an the ultimate example - a fragrance based on an old geisha recipe, but medicinal, herbal, green, vegetal... fantastic.
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post #7 of 24
10/5/12 at 3:29pm
Not sure it's really considered an herbal, but I think of Aromatics Elixir.
I have a real "love-hate-love" relationship with it's '70s hippie vibe!
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post #8 of 24
10/5/12 at 9:00pm
All above make sense - for something that is a little more 'out there' Epic Woman (Amouage) has a fascinating quality that says 'Northern China' to me - a herbal medicinal tonic mix that is just wonderful. The Silk Road is the inspiration and I think they nailed it with this one.

Some of the Santa Maria Novella line also have what is almost a herbal 'house note', certainly evocative of a more rural heritage to me. Try Pot Pourri and explore some of the other offerings.

Dior Granville has a slighly 'garriguey' quality, more overtly piney, but worth a shot.
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post #9 of 24
10/5/12 at 10:29pm
vetyver anything!
fig
lavender
ginestra
AA Herba Fresca
basil
hay
rosemary
the go to is Italian lines.
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post #10 of 24
10/6/12 at 4:27am
chanel no. 18 comes to mind, it may be the interplay of cumin and flowers
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post #11 of 24
10/6/12 at 4:46am
From male viewpoint, one of the most herbal feminine scents I have ever experienced, even while I cannot point out, define, describe any of its notes, is "Miss Dior". In fact, to my nose at least, that herbal, it could almost work as a unisex and/or male scent too.
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post #12 of 24
10/6/12 at 5:46am
I thought of Miss Dior, too, Ken Russell, for its sage note - but I don't know how oakmossy, green, and sagey it is anymore, given reformulations. MD used to be oe of my favorites. I 2nd Mr. Reasonable's suggestion of the house of SMN.
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post #13 of 24
10/6/12 at 7:52am
Clarins Eau Dynamisante is a favourite feminine herbal of mine - I've been wearing it for 15 or so years. I also love O de Lancôme.

I don't find either one of them to be overtly feminine, though, but they aren't overtly masculine either, and they are both marketed as feminines, I believe.
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post #14 of 24
10/6/12 at 9:16am
There is a Caron, but a men's - I think it's Yatagan
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post #15 of 24
10/6/12 at 9:58am
I was going to say Yatagan, actually - glad you mentioned it.

It has a reassuring earthy, herbal, slightly piney tone - wild herbs, not tended with TLC in a nice little herb garden on a windowsill kinda thing
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post #16 of 24
10/6/12 at 12:08pm
Borsari Macchia Mediterranea

TaoLady said this smelled of green herbs on her. On me it smells like dried herbs.
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post #17 of 24
10/6/12 at 12:32pm
If you like herbal stuff you shouldn't miss O'Driù...check this thread out...

http://www.basenotes.net/threads/289...ve-Obsessions)
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post #18 of 24
10/6/12 at 8:26pm
Thread Starter 
Oh, to be clearer: the only reason I said 'feminines' was that the herbal accord description is used less in feminine-intended scents, so that elusiveness intrigues me and seems as if it might lie in lesser-knowns. This is not about the fallacy of any scent having a real gender, just how they are marketed. I have this prejudice of generally finding feminine-marketed scents much better-made than masculines. I am often put off by the crudeness or bored by male-intended scents and fully understand men who wear mostly feminines or niche neutrals. Any masculine-intended scents that are strikingly herbal fully apply here though. Pour Un Homme is archetypal herbal but still so sweet. Health food store herbal as I search would be drier, yes, like Yatagan.

Are any perfumers or brands (several good ones already mentioned above) known to have an herbal signature? Sometimes this is said of Jacques Cavallier.
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post #19 of 24
10/6/12 at 11:59pm
Niki de St. Phalle has an herbal quality.
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post #20 of 24
10/7/12 at 3:03am
Hi A&I. Nice thread!

I second;

The O'Driu range. Must be tried to appreciate.
Dior Granville, very herbal, good thyme note.

And I add;

The Testa Maura range. Herby and natural, but with some pizzaz.


And, a BIG rec for Etat Libre D'Orange Eloge Du Traitre. I think that this one might be where you're heading sister!! Dark and tinder dry. Pine and laurel, bay, artemisia. Yatagans descendant. A shady fragrance for a spy. Masculine as such but who cares. Please try it!!
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post #21 of 24
10/7/12 at 4:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foustie View Post


The Testa Maura range. Herby and natural, but with some pizzaz.

Ops, I could I have forgotten about Testa Maura...
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post #22 of 24
10/7/12 at 5:00am
You know, Villoresi might be worth looking at too.

Uomo and Yerbamate are two I like, both have a lightly dusted with herbs quality and the Colonia is also exquisite. Interesting that Villoresi & SMN are both based in Florence. Well, I find it interesting
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post #23 of 24
10/7/12 at 12:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

Dior Granville has a slighly 'garriguey' quality, more overtly piney, but worth a shot.

I like Granville very much. I need to get me a decant of that, soon
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post #24 of 24
10/7/12 at 1:53pm

Coriandre (Jean Couturier).

Calandre (Paco Rabanne).

Jean-Louis Scherrer. green juice.

Creed Green Valley. unisex.

FRANK by Frank Los Angeles. unisex.
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