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perfume formulas/recipes using glycerin

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Hi,

Can anyone suggest some perfume formulas that would use perfumers alcohol, glycerin, distilled water and the fragrance oils?

I want to use between 10-15% fragrance oil

Thanks so much!
post #2 of 9
Why would you want to put glycerine in it? You will create all sorts of solubility problems and make your fragrance sticky on the skin to boot.

Distilled water is also not necessary but with 10-15% fragrance materials you could probably get away with 5% water to make it a bit cheaper to produce, depending on what's in your perfumer's alcohol. If your perfumers alcohol contains isopropyl myristate I wouldn't risk adding water as it's likely to go cloudy.

Also be aware that you need to use pure or near-pure fragrance materials for this to work - pure essential oils and aroma chemicals rather than the sort of fragrance oil often sold for use directly and confusingly often called 'pure perfume oil' by those who sell it - it's really at best 30% fragrance materials, with the rest some kind of carrier oil that may or may not dissolve in ethanol.
post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
My fragrance oil supplier suggested the following percentages for the perfume I am planning to create:
Fragrance: 10.48%
Alcohol SDA-40: 79.00%
DiH2O: 10.52%

And I was reading the mixed reviews of adding dipropylene glycol or a glycerin for the scent to last longer on the skin. It seems the consensus on basenotes is that dipropylene glycol with do nothing to help with scent lasting on skin???? but with many online searches the consensus is that it does help with staying power....really confused on this one.

My fragrance oil is pure and does not have any additives or carrier oils added to it.

Thanks so much for any advice.
post #4 of 9
Oh Gawd, this again. I don't care what anyone has read, all I know is what I have experienced in over 30 years as a perfumer. To my knowledge DPG is not used as a fixative in Perfumery.

If you are unsure, why not experiment yourself? Take two samples of your fragrance mix; to one add some DPG (about 10.0%), leave the other alone. Dip your two samples and compare strength, and change in odour over a couple of hours. Should you wish, extend this over a couple of days. Smell, at first, every 30 minutes, then after an hour or so, smell every hour. Make notes, and come to a conclusion.
post #5 of 9
Maybe we should go back to basics:

Perfume is a mixture of a fragrance compound and alcohol. You don't add a fixative afterwards to a fragrance, the fragrance compound needs to have enough fixative power of its own. So in general: don't add glycerin, DPG, DEP, IPM, glucose syrup, BB, Herculyn D or whatever substance to your perfume as a fixative, purchase a good fragrance compound instead.

When you paint the walls and the rain whashes the paint down you could spray a fixative (like a lacquer) over the wall, it might help, will affect the appearance, but it would be much better to use water resistant paint in the first place.
post #6 of 9
janmeut, you are exactly right. Thank you.
post #7 of 9
Totally agree with Jan and David;
however, there seems to be one "additive" called Glucam P-20, which acts as a post-added fixative for top/middle notes:

Quote PerfumersApprentice: "This is a material used for the fixing of top and some middle notes. For example, experiments performed in house show that Sweet Orange essential oil (one of the most fleeting of scents- usually lasting only two minutes on the skin) was increased to last half an hour or more on the skin.
Use up to 5% of your fragrance formula concentrate, but experiment! Using too much will "flatten" a fragrance."


Website: http://www.lubrizol.com/PersonalCare...lucamP-20.html
post #8 of 9
Thanks JSPARLA for reminding peeps of this one.

And Still, adding glycerin is supremely BAD.
but, "It's on the Internet, so it must be true!"

WRONG!!!
post #9 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsparla View Post

Totally agree with Jan and David;
however, there seems to be one "additive" called Glucam P-20, which acts as a post-added fixative for top/middle notes:

Quote PerfumersApprentice: "This is a material used for the fixing of top and some middle notes. For example, experiments performed in house show that Sweet Orange essential oil (one of the most fleeting of scents- usually lasting only two minutes on the skin) was increased to last half an hour or more on the skin.
Use up to 5% of your fragrance formula concentrate, but experiment! Using too much will "flatten" a fragrance."


Website: http://www.lubrizol.com/PersonalCare...lucamP-20.html

It's certainly true that Glucam P-20 works as a fixative and is more-or-less odourless, but I still don't recommend adding separately - if I use it I build it in to the fragrance formula - just like benzyl benzoate, which is also an almost odourless fixative.

Any fixative will have a differential impact on some components of the fragrance - so you may need to adjust other parts of the formula to compensate for it's effect - if you add some at the end the resulting fragrance will likely have more lasting power but may not smell the same as it did before you added it, even though the additive itself is odourless.

I realise that's counter-intuitive but is essentially the same thing that David and others have describe in relation to materials they are anosmic to: even if you can't smell Benzyl salicylate on it's own you can detect the smoothing effect it has when it's in the blend. Hope that helps.
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