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Sample Of The Day: NOVEMBER 2012

post #1 of 41
11/1/12 at 12:54pm
Thread Starter 
Hello all - hopefully a busier month of sampling ahead - I've got a ton of stuff to go through and this new update feature is driving me crazy so everyone get posting so this thing stays buzzing

Today's sample was:

Loretta by Tableau De Parfums



An opening of grape soda (in the style of Cuir Venenum's grape-y orange blossom) and heated spice, settles into an orange blossom/jasmine/rose that still smells candied, syrupy and fruity - pairs with a hint of culinary green herbal notes but they are only subtle in the background.
As time goes on, the tuberose sits at the bottom of the floral pile, leaking oily and metallic notes that pierce the otherwise sweet honeyed florals of the heart. The fragrance seems to split in two as the base notes come in - a rough worn leather, dry smoky cedar wood and the hint of oiliness that seems to soil the fragrance (in a good way).
But all these dirty aspects are very subtle, and what overides is the almost sherberty, sweet, feminine florals, it's only when you look deeper you see the darkness. Still, very nice but I prefer Miriam!

Full review here
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post #2 of 41
11/1/12 at 1:44pm
Thanks for starting the new thread, freddie!

l've got a ton of stuff to get through, too, so fear not, you will not be alone here!

- - - Updated - - -

Today (Saturday 3rd) l tried Chypre Rouge by Serge Lutens, the next step in my quest to understand the immortelle note.

l get that dry, sweet-spicy note of immortelle in the opening, with hints of resin & honey rather than maple syrup. There's a little smoke, & then a suggestion of dark, dried berries or red wine, rather than the jello/fruit gum accord that l've read about. One hour in, a mossy note begins to come forward, & deep in the base, a touch of vanilla. The projection is very low, & it all fades out after around five hours.
l didn't dislike this one, but it didn't really move me, either. l don't think it's as terrible as many of the reviews seem to suggest, though.
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post #3 of 41
11/3/12 at 12:07pm
Thread Starter 
Hi teardrop, thanks for the PM I'm sure I'd have found it sooner or later!
Yeh I can imagine out a sample vial especially it's very subtle. Chypre Rouge is wonderful for a couple hours then fades to a very very soft sweet moss for a few remaining hours. It's definitely not a Lutens' powerhouse - but it's one of my ultimate comfort scents, warming and cosy. Many think it's terrible simply because of the immortelle - as LT puts it in the guide "immortelle disaster". I personally love it, but realise it's a safe scent in the lineup and may be a let down for some.
Cheers for posting your thoughts , it's great to finally understand a note and be able to pinpoint it.

- - - Updated - - -

Tonight's sample was Lys Du Desert by Decennial - created by Andy Tauer

Full review here

A gorgeous citrus marmalade and cardamom, that brings to mind both Orange Star and Eau D'Epices - the soapiness of OS gone, and the bitter sweet dust of Eau D'Epices toned right down. A harmonious balance between the two.
A typical Tauerade drydown comes on quickly, sweet amber, incense, ambergris, cedar - a dusting of iris and the faint ghost of a lily (a slightly clovey, slight fleshy white floral accord - barely a whisper).
Very nice - but in no way do I believe this was made from scratch for the brand. It smells like an alternative formulation to an already produced fragrance in Tauer's line as it is almost identical to numerous fragrances in his house, bits and pieces put together to make something that is only just new. Disappointing as I've smelt it before, but very nice becuase I like the two fragrances I compared it to. Someone could hold this under my nose and tell me it is Orange Star and I'd nod along and smile.
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post #4 of 41
11/5/12 at 10:00am
Teardrop, I wonder if you can find L'Occitain Immortelle? It is a calm, wearable version of immortelle that is very nice. Also somewhat inexpensive. It may have been recently discontinued.
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post #5 of 41
11/5/12 at 12:33pm
Thread Starter 
Today's sample was Myrrhe Ardente by Annick Goutal

It opens with a gorgeous, vanillic, almost boozy root beer accord with a good hit of syrupy anise up top. A sweet, smooth amber underneath adds a delicate resinous quality that takes it away from becoming too edible - along with a subtle hint of pepper spiking the sweetness underneath.
It still manages to remain almost mouthwatering throughout - an ultimate comfort fragrance. A set honey note comes in as a woodiness underneath gets stronger - slightly smoky and drier as time goes on.
The myrrh only shows up as the heart settles, a slightly bitter resinous note continuing a subtle trail of smoke through the drydown.
The benzoin and vanilla heavy amber and woods lead the drydown - rounded out by a waxy/rubbery texture from the myrrh and beeswax.
Simply enjoyable!
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post #6 of 41
11/5/12 at 12:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by cello View Post

Teardrop, I wonder if you can find L'Occitain Immortelle? It is a calm, wearable version of immortelle that is very nice. Also somewhat inexpensive. It may have been recently discontinued.

Thanks for the suggestion, cello! l will keep an eye out for this one next time l'm in the department store in town. l know they stock L'Occitane there, but l haven't investigated them much.
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post #7 of 41
11/5/12 at 12:53pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by teardrop View Post

Thanks for the suggestion, cello! l will keep an eye out for this one next time l'm in the department store in town. l know they stock L'Occitane there, but l haven't investigated them much.

They used to stock the Imortelle but I believe it was a limited edition - they don't stock it in either of the L'Occitane stores near me. Immortelle De Corse I think it was called.... it was a similar immortelle to that in Like This - completely de-spiced, sweet, slightly syrupy and translucent, an immortelle for people who don't like the note, but it was undoubtably nicely made and easy to wear. Similar to their labdanum - it's a sweet gummy resin lacking the bite of the real thing.
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post #8 of 41
11/5/12 at 1:04pm
Hi everyone. My sample of the day was MDCI Chypre Palatin. The first that I have tried from MDCI. Not what I expected at all, not chypric in my humble estimation but very, very, good. A dual bitter green/fruity opening that is incredibly fleeting, then a fast develpoment into a powdery woody floral phase. A good dose of Iris, powdery and dry, and rose, over a dry woody resinous base. Powdery and lush. Great longevity.

Edit: Really surprised that this is marketed as a masculine. In the mid deveopment in particular there is no reason why this could not be compared to a lush, old school fem.
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post #9 of 41
11/5/12 at 1:12pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks for your input Foustie!
I also haven't tried anything from MDCI. This sounds nice, do you think it's something unique? It's so hard to read about some fragrances and find them interesting enough to get a sample of. I like iris - and powdery woods - it seems that this company often relies solely on great quality materials and a neat execution in traditional style compositions... am i on the right track? :/
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post #10 of 41
11/5/12 at 1:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post

Thanks for your input Foustie!
I also haven't tried anything from MDCI. This sounds nice, do you think it's something unique? It's so hard to read about some fragrances and find them interesting enough to get a sample of. I like iris - and powdery woods - it seems that this company often relies solely on great quality materials and a neat execution in traditional style compositions... am i on the right track? :/

Hi Freddie. This is lovely but not terribly unusual if that is what you are after. I am thinking in the same Universe as Iris Bleu Gris but much sweeter. I have seen comments about the animalic drydown but for me it is mainly soft sweetish powdery woody. There is hardly a dribble left or I would send it on to you..
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post #11 of 41
11/5/12 at 1:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post

They used to stock the Imortelle but I believe it was a limited edition - they don't stock it in either of the L'Occitane stores near me. Immortelle De Corse I think it was called.... it was a similar immortelle to that in Like This - completely de-spiced, sweet, slightly syrupy and translucent, an immortelle for people who don't like the note, but it was undoubtably nicely made and easy to wear. Similar to their labdanum - it's a sweet gummy resin lacking the bite of the real thing.

Thanks freddie! l'm wearing Like This again this evening, (sprayed this time) & it's still a little too quiet for me. l do like it, but l think l prefer Sables to this one.
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post #12 of 41
11/5/12 at 1:55pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foustie View Post

Hi Freddie. This is lovely but not terribly unusual if that is what you are after. I am thinking in the same Universe as Iris Bleu Gris but much sweeter. I have seen comments about the animalic drydown but for me it is mainly soft sweetish powdery woody. There is hardly a dribble left or I would send it on to you..

That's very sweet thank you, but don't worry I'm completely up to my neck in samples - I had to hoard them off onto people on the free to a good home thread a few days ago!
I'm not always after unusual :P Haha I don't wanna come across as that sad - it's just, something has to be hella standout if it's composition reads familiar you know. I'll be sure to give these a sniff next time I'm at Roja Dove's!

Quote:
Originally Posted by teardrop View Post

Thanks freddie! l'm wearing Like This again this evening, (sprayed this time) & it's still a little too quiet for me. l do like it, but l think l prefer Sables to this one.

Yay! Haha, I'm glad you like Sables :P Feel free to ask me for more if you want! I sent someone a 5ml decant freebie recently, I'll NEVER go through 100ml of the stuff!
Look forward to reading your thoughts on the last two samples :P
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post #13 of 41
11/5/12 at 2:00pm
OK so I drained the sample. This really is gorgeous. The rich/ aromatic/powdery /Rose/Iris/woody mid development is really beautiful. Worth sampling!

PS I know....I saw your giveway!!
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post #14 of 41
11/5/12 at 2:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post

Yay! Haha, I'm glad you like Sables :P Feel free to ask me for more if you want! I sent someone a 5ml decant freebie recently, I'll NEVER go through 100ml of the stuff!
Look forward to reading your thoughts on the last two samples :P

Ooh, how can l say no to that?! l saw your giveaway, but you have already been so generous to me that l didn't want to be greedy!
More sampling planned for later this week...
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post #15 of 41
11/5/12 at 2:16pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by teardrop View Post

Ooh, how can l say no to that?! l saw your giveaway, but you have already been so generous to me that l didn't want to be greedy!
More sampling planned for later this week...

Don't be silly, I give becuase I recieve so much - there are BN'ers which have helped me immensely and opened my nose to so many new things, I like to pay it forward :P
Well, I'll send you some more Sables over the next few days!
Yay!! Excited :P
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post #16 of 41
11/5/12 at 2:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post

Don't be silly, I give becuase I recieve so much - there are BN'ers which have helped me immensely and opened my nose to so many new things, I like to pay it forward :P
Well, I'll send you some more Sables over the next few days!
Yay!! Excited :P

Woohoo! Thanks so much, you sweetie!
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post #17 of 41
11/5/12 at 2:26pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by teardrop View Post

Woohoo! Thanks so much, you sweetie!

No worries Also, did you get to try Tawaf by La Via Del Profumo? I have a bottle of it now so can send you my travel size if you want? It's a beautiful natural jasmine that's getting a bit of talk on the forums now
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post #18 of 41
11/5/12 at 10:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post

No worries Also, did you get to try Tawaf by La Via Del Profumo? I have a bottle of it now so can send you my travel size if you want? It's a beautiful natural jasmine that's getting a bit of talk on the forums now

OMG really?! Yes l would be extremely delighted to take it off your hands, it sounds divine! Thanks again, freddie!
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post #19 of 41
11/6/12 at 6:21am
Afternoom Teardrop! Afternoon Freddie! Just popped in to say something about the sample of the yesterday . The Chypre Palatin was still there this morning. The most beautiful sweet vanilla ( and you won't hear me saying that very often!), but really, the softest, most gorgeous vanilla with sweet balsam along with the memory of a dry floral leather, still there, and NOW perhaps I detect a trace of the animalic notes, a soft castoreum. This is beautiful quality, beautifully pitched. I want.

Aha! The Tawaf. I have some too! That should make for a good chat.
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post #20 of 41
11/6/12 at 7:57am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foustie View Post

Afternoom Teardrop! Afternoon Freddie! Just popped in to say something about the sample of the yesterday . The Chypre Palatin was still there this morning. The most beautiful sweet vanilla ( and you won't hear me saying that very often!), but really, the softest, most gorgeous vanilla with sweet balsam along with the memory of a dry floral leather, still there, and NOW perhaps I detect a trace of the animalic notes, a soft castoreum. This is beautiful quality, beautifully pitched. I want.

Aha! The Tawaf. I have some too! That should make for a good chat.

Thanks for the update Foustie! Sounds wonderful - I'll have to try this one, have been exploring vanillas recently.
Can't wait for teardrop to try the Tawaf :P It is a lovely, extreme jasmine. Also sent her some Secret Garden with the last goody bag - a real beauty, I hope she loves it like I do :P
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post #21 of 41
11/6/12 at 8:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by teardrop View Post

Thanks freddie! l'm wearing Like This again this evening, (sprayed this time) & it's still a little too quiet for me. l do like it, but l think l prefer Sables to this one.

Oh, yes, teardrop. If Sables is your immortelle, then the L'Occitane would be too quiet for you. Sables is a bit much for me, so I like it a little tame for that particular note

freddie, just saw your review of AG Myrrhe Ardente. Wonderful! I love that one! Need to pull out my bottle because it is just perfect weather for it now.
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post #22 of 41
11/6/12 at 11:49am
I finally managed to sample SL Santal Majuscule.

I had read the comparisons with Jeux de Peau, but I kept an open mind. The idea of a novel interpretation of sandal wood, coupled with my favorite flower--rose--and cocoa was impossible to resist. My mind had conjured, at any rate, a more delectable olfactory image than the reality. Upon first application on the skin, the most noticeable accord is the of roses. The rose is fairly mellow and soft. After that, the familiar notes from Jeux de Peau assert themselves. Jeux de Peau never smelled literally of a buttered toast to me; rather it is an abstract allusion created by the combination of woody and spicy notes, and this is exactly what I find in SM as well. In fact, about half an hour after application, SO sniffed it as said, "Mm, woods and spice." SM seems to vacillate between the mellow roses perceived in the beginning and the strangely buttery woody-spiciness of JdP.
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post #23 of 41
11/6/12 at 12:26pm
Evening, all! Today l tried Tubereuse 3 L'Animale by Histoires de Parfums. Yes freddie, l'm making you - & me - wait for the Secret Garden sample! And l'm soooo excited at the prospect of trying Tawaf!

Anyway... l get a complete symphony orchestra of notes in the opening of this one. lt strikes me as a fruity, floral, animalic, leathery incense all at once, & it's hard to pin anything down for a while. Except for the tuberose, which emerges over the first twenty minutes or so as the fruity notes recede, like a beam of sunlight piercing the thick forest canopy. There's a lot going on around it, but the tuberose is right at the centre of the action, providing the focus. At some point while l'm not looking, the animalic-ness disappears into the shadows, never to reappear. There's also a point where this reminds me strongly of Le Maroc by Tauer; a headshop-incense vibe, with tuberose instead of dirty jasmine. l have to sniff quite intently to detect the immortelle here, & to my nose it's so well-blended into the whole that it's not really noticeable, except as an impresson of dry grassiness. After two-three hours, the tuberose remains, but the surrounding notes have collapsed into a soft, sweet, powdery pillow of tobacco & labdanum, & it's settled very close to the skin.

l'm not sure l'd wear this one often, as l already have my tuberose loves, & l adore my decant of Le Maroc. But l am impressed with this unusual, complex & easily unisex take on tuberose.
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post #24 of 41
11/6/12 at 12:34pm
These are lovely posts Teardrop and catnip. Thanks. I'm really chuffed that I decided to pop into this thread.
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post #25 of 41
11/6/12 at 12:41pm
Thanks Foustie! You are very welcome here, & l hope to read more of your posts!
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post #26 of 41
11/6/12 at 4:26pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by catnip_too View Post

I finally managed to sample SL Santal Majuscule.

Thanks for posting catnip! I really like Santal Majascule, my mum loved it so I'll be picking her up a bottle in Pairs. The similarity to Jeux De Peau is uncanny, but I think it takes everything good from JdP and adds more goodness, a slightly bitter edge from the cocoa, replacing the osmanthus with rose - and generally a more mature take on the abstractly gourmand sandalwood theme. I find it a real easy wear. Your review though seems spot on!

Quote:
Originally Posted by teardrop View Post

Evening, all! Today l tried Tubereuse 3 L'Animale by Histoires de Parfums. Yes freddie, l'm making you - & me - wait for the Secret Garden sample! And l'm soooo excited at the prospect of trying Tawaf!

Brilliant review teardrop! Immortelle can smell very dry, like in Sables, or it can smell like smooth sweet syrup - like in Tubereuse 3, it's a complete shapeshifter of a note! I find it pretty potent, but in a completely different way to Sables. You review is bang on, it's a fascinating sniff isn't it! - a completely unique take on Tubereuse and a standout in the HdP line Like you, I don't think I'd wear it that much - even though I crave a bottle, but it's got such a sweet classy feel to it, I kind of find it necessary :P
Oh man, I'm nervous about your Secret Garden review haha - most samples I send to people from my personal collection go down like a bomb! - The bad kind of bomb. The one that crashes and burns (noses) :P Fear not though I won't be offended :P Even if it is a personal favourite!! Haha. As for Tawaf - I think you'll really enjoy this one, there's about 3ml remaining in what I sent - spray lavishly and let the mushrooms disappear :P It's exquisit start to finish!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Foustie View Post

These are lovely posts Teardrop and catnip. Thanks. I'm really chuffed that I decided to pop into this thread.


Foustie be sure to stick around! This is my favourite thread on the forum! Haha - so much fun stuff to discover - fascinating to read other people's interpretations of each others fragrances too.

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:
Originally Posted by cello View Post

freddie, just saw your review of AG Myrrhe Ardente. Wonderful! I love that one! Need to pull out my bottle because it is just perfect weather for it now.

Yay more love for it! Thanks for reading I appreciate that! I really really like this AG, I will definitely be getting a bottle soon. It's heavenly.
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post #27 of 41
11/6/12 at 6:38pm
Thank you, Foustie and Forfreddie! I enjoy everyone's posts in the thread. The reviews are very analytical. I wish could recognize notes easily, but I have a long way to go.

I like Santal Majuscule better than Jeux De Peau. It must be the rose. I guess I like cocoa when it's more literal. So envious of Forfreddie's trip to Paris....
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post #28 of 41
11/7/12 at 12:47am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by catnip_too View Post

Thank you, Foustie and Forfreddie! I enjoy everyone's posts in the thread. The reviews are very analytical. I wish could recognize notes easily, but I have a long way to go.

I like Santal Majuscule better than Jeux De Peau. It must be the rose. I guess I like cocoa when it's more literal. So envious of Forfreddie's trip to Paris....


Glad to hear you like it better Yeh - the cocoa is very bitter, dusty, and hidden - not at all a prominent player.
Hehe, Paris Rome Zurich and Berlin - one epic holiday! Don't worry I'll report back with enough excitement you'll feel like you've been there too hahaha.
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post #29 of 41
11/8/12 at 12:11pm
Today l tried... Secret Garden by Aftelier, one of freddie's favourites!

From the outset, this is a warm, rich, honeyed floral, with rose & jasmine the most prominent notes to my nose. l get a hint of something minty up top, & the fruity notes seem extremely subtle. One hour in, it becomes softly animalic, but never too fecal or dirty. There's a touch of moss or dark greenery of some kind in the base. The projection is moderate, & after seven hours it's still going softly as a skin scent.
l can't compete with freddie's wonderful review of this fragrance on his blog, but this is just the kind of floral that l love to wear in spring & summer, & l will definitely revisit it when the weather turns warmer.
lt also reminds me very much of Ayala Moriel's style of fragrances. Perhaps simply because these are also natural perfumes, but that rich, honeyed feel is remarkably similar. Freddie, have you tried any of Ayala's line? l'm pretty sure you'd find something to love there.
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post #30 of 41
11/8/12 at 12:19pm
Thread Starter 
Hi teardrop, YAY glad to finally read your thoughts. I know I went a bit overboard in my write up of it haha, it blew my mind! :P Haute Claire is my new love from the line, I'll have to send you a drop of that when my bottle arrives!
NO! But I must try them if you feel them quite similar. I'll go hunt them out now
I know the Aftelier's don't get the love everywhere I always think they will :P Sent some samples to a nose I respect on BN recently who is struggling with them a little bit - different things work for different people ey, it's fascinating. I love to even read bad reviews of my favourite fragrances, it gives them a whole new dimension. Thanks for the update teardrop Hope you enjoy the Sables too, sorry I didn't have a bigger vial

Well, today's sample was Falling Into The Sea by Imaginary Authors.

A bizarre, bright, aldehydic? citrus opening of disinfectant style lemon cream (linalool heavy?), and bitter grapefruit along with a sharp hit of translucent green apple start.
It's an unusual drydown that is both linear, and kaleidoscopic? It seems huge, broad and spacious and I find new little aspects to it as it settles, whilst smelling almost identical to the opening. The citrus lasts for ages and I love it - it's almost robotic, fresh, but heartless. There's some unidentifiable floral notes, and an ambergris/salty musk note in the base. I really like it and will get a bottle in the summer
My full review is here and Josh from Imaginary Authors is offering 2 full sample sets as a giveaway so go participate!!!
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post #31 of 41
11/8/12 at 1:14pm
Freddie, please do not apologise for not sending me a bigger vial, you know how much l appreciate the goodies you send my way! And l have a confession to make; l wore Sables to work yesterday, & in that environment it just smelled wrong, like an old toffee found down the back of a sofa! Whereas at home it just feels nicely comforting & cosy after coming in from the cold. So l can probably make the vial last quite a while!

l would love to hear your thoughts on Ayala's fragrances if you try any of them!
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post #32 of 41
11/8/12 at 1:19pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by teardrop View Post

Freddie, please do not apologise for not sending me a bigger vial, you know how much l appreciate the goodies you send my way! And l have a confession to make; l wore Sables to work yesterday, & in that environment it just smelled wrong, like an old toffee found down the back of a sofa! Whereas at home it just feels nicely comforting & cosy after coming in from the cold. So l can probably make the vial last quite a while!

l would love to hear your thoughts on Ayala's fragrances if you try any of them!

Lol!!! It's a bizarre one ey. I find that on my skin, about one minute after spraying it literally vanishes up close, but I can smell it all around me, this happens throughout it's development, really wierd.
I just emailed Ayala - her line is overwhelming and she has a great consultation form on her site which I used to get recommended some stuff Thanks for the heads up teardrop!
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post #33 of 41
11/8/12 at 1:33pm
You're welcome, glad to be the one enabling you for a change!
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post #34 of 41
11/10/12 at 3:14pm
Thread Starter 
Finally sampled Aftelier's new Wild Roses today
Completelyyyyy different to what I expected, but I know I'll grow to love it, it's thoroughly enjoyable and hugely complicated whilst remaining light and beautiful on the skin - can't help but think it was released the wrong time of the year, but it's warm and spicy enough to be good in the Winter. My review is far too long so I'll post the link as usual here
Keep sampling people! x
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post #35 of 41
11/11/12 at 5:50am
A special treat today. Jean Patou Lasso! An almost medicinal note to begin, fleeting. Then a spicy floral, carnation? Develops into a slightly powdery floral leather. The flowers? Rose, carnation, heliotrope perhaps? This was a surprise. I wouldn't be attratcted to a fragrance BECAUSE it is vintage, and I don't like dense, stodgy, over complex fragrances, so this came as a pleasant surprise. It is soft and very wearable. I would have liked it to have endured a bit longer. Sadly, just as the floral/leather symphony has developed, it falls away. I have no idea if it smells like it did when it was made decades ago (could be from the thirties or the fifties, not clear about that), but today it is a lovely, soft, floral leather. Thank You furrypine for your generous sharing of this rare fragrance.
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post #36 of 41
11/11/12 at 12:24pm
Thread Starter 
Lovely write up Foustie - i'm not quite into the vintage thing either so was interesting to read your review This was a generous giveaway and I didn't think I'd be able to appreciate it enough so didn't wanna ask for a bit :P

My sample of the day was:

The Afternoon Of A Faun by Etat Libre D'Orange
I actually have a little 10ml bottle of this but hadn't wrote about it yet (and haven't really worn it until now)



I really really like this - it opens with one of the best turkish delight (loukoum) accords I've smelt - pure turkish rose, iris (powder) and a hit of black and pink pepper - missing the cherry/almond notes that often make up this accord but destroy it's association for me as that reminds me more of nougat...
It reminds me of Archives 69 more so as a metallic frankincense and myrrh comes into play - along with a leather accord. An immortelle buzzes along in the background quietly but never dominated, it has the sweet, spicy quality of it's usage in Like This - only a little more potent and dry rather than syrupy.
The turkish delight resemblance does begin to disappear when the basenotes get more potent but it's still lovely, not gourmand as it's more floral - but super soft and light on the skin, and thoroughly enjoyable - a good release for the line with a beautiful name
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post #37 of 41
11/13/12 at 2:18pm
Today l tried... Tawaf!

Yep, it's "extreme jasmine" alright. Green, slightly sharp & metallic, loud & high-pitched in the opening, & indolic in the "magic marker" sense, rather than dirty or animalic. l get just a hint of narcissus, too. A couple of hours in, it smells to me like a deadringer for Jardenia, with its green, lightly peppery vibe. From here it doesn't really develop to my nose, but simply fades, & five hours in l'm still waiting for the opoponax to appear.
l don't get any of the "mud" notes that l've read about in another thread, but l must admit that on the first try l am a little disappointed with this one. l so wanted to love it, but it doesn't have the dirty jasmine or the warm opoponax l was expecting. l will revisit it when the weather turns warmer next year, in the hope that it'll bloom for me then.

Thanks again freddie for letting me try this one!
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post #38 of 41
11/13/12 at 4:31pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks for posting your thoughts teardrop!
I totally get what you mean about the lack of opoponax - I don't really get it either. I love that harsh, astringent opening and your reference to Jardenia is spot on, I love the mushroom notes in this. It's when the rose comes in that Tawaf suddenly gives in to a subtle linear drydown - I find that a heavily applied full days wear though and I still catch the gorgeous "magic marker" jasmine (I love that term so much I'm gonna use that! haha) coming off my skin. It took a good weeks worth of solid wearing for me to thoroughly appreciate this as I too was a bit disappointed after it's wild opening to what it settled in to, I know consider it one of my favourite releases this year. I'm not sure why - I love natural ingredients these days so I guess that helps, but I adore the green herbaceous notes paired with the jasmine, and it's the first time I've really enjoyed jasmine grandiflorum compared to the sambac, I've always had an aversion to the note - especially after the horror of Jasmin et cigarette D:
Again, thanks for the thoughts teardrop - I really appreciate you writing about the goodies! It means a lot.
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post #39 of 41
11/20/12 at 10:54am
Today l tried Josef Statkus, the first from my latest batch of Luckyscent samples.

This opens with dark, spicy woods & incense, joined early on by a raw, slightly medicinal amber. lt slowly smooths out over the first hour into a woody amber, & changes very little as it dries down. The jasmine note is extremely subtle to my nose. lt has medium-good projection & good longevity, still going after eight hours.
l was very excited to try this one, as the combination of incense, jasmine & amber sounded wonderful. So far, l like its feel of comfort with a hint of strength, & further wearings may well lead to love. lt's most definitely unisex, in fact l would love to smell this on a guy!

- - - Updated - - -

Today (Wed 21st) l tried two fragrances;

This morning, it was Costes by Hotel Costes.
For a fleeting moment in the opening, this smells surprisingly green & floral to me, before the wood & spices come in. The most prominent spice is clove, transitioning to a peppered, dark rose with a layer of sandalwood beneath. The rose slowly recedes over the next four-five hours, leaving a smooth, sweetish & clean sandalwood base. The incense note is very subtle here, but the projection is big. Very nice.

This evening, post-shower, l tried 10 Corso Como.
l have seen this one compared to Costes, but to my nose the two are quite different. l get a strong woody incense in the opening, but none of the rose. What l get instead is a note l can only compare to sweet pickle. l keep hoping it will go away, but once l notice it l cannot ignore it. l sense a rather friendly oudh underneath it, but the pickle note ruins this fragrance for me. Four hours in it hasn't changed at all. Thankfully the projection is fairly low, but how l wish l'd tested this one before my shower!
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post #40 of 41
11/22/12 at 4:49am
[QUOTE=teardrop;2763870]

This morning, it was Costes by Hotel Costes.
For a fleeting moment in the opening, this smells surprisingly green & floral to me, before the wood & spices come in. The most prominent spice is clove, transitioning to a peppered, dark rose with a layer of sandalwood beneath. The rose slowly recedes over the next four-five hours, leaving a smooth, sweetish & clean sandalwood base. The incense note is very subtle here, but the projection is big. Very nice. [QUOTE]

I really, really like the sound of this teardrop. Thanks for the lovely appraisal.
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post #41 of 41
11/24/12 at 8:52am
You're welcome, Foustie!

Today l'm sampling Chergui by Serge Lutens.

l usually find the longevity & projection lacking in the Lutens fragrances that l've tried, & so l wasn't expecting much from this one. But what l've read about it made me want to try it, & l am pleasantly surprised!

The first impression l get in the opening is of sunny warmth & sweetness from the hay & cherry pipe tobacco. The sweetness is not at all cloying though, & there's something dark-green & woody in there to balance it out. ln the heart this fragrance becomes truly swoonworthy, as a smoky incense, rooty iris & a touch of honey come to the fore, & l can't stop sniffing my arm. Six hours in, it's dried down to a softly powdery, musky, leathery base not unlike Habanita EDT, & l'm sold.
This is a deliciously comforting scent, perfect for a dark, gloomy, wet day like today. Finally, a Lutens l can really love!

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Today (Thurs 29th) l tried Muscs Koublai Khan by Serge Lutens. l thought it was about time l tried this one, as l sampled Musc Ravageur a while back, & l've been enjoying a few animalic perfumes recently.

The opening is indeed a dirty, skanky musk, reminiscent of unwashed persons & untended public toilets. While l can see its animalic appeal, l'm thinking l could never wear this in public, & also that it might work well on my Kouros-wearing bf! Then, after a few minutes, it smooths out into a soft skin scent of animal fur with a faint, unidentifiable floral note, & a touch of clean musk. ln the heart there's a little saltiness, & a sweet puff of powder in the base. lt wears very close to the skin on me, & has faded to almost nothing after five hours.
l don't dislike this, but l much prefer Musc Ravageur, finding it more complex & more on the feminine side. lt also totally outclasses MKK in longevity, lasting well over twelve hours on me.
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