I keep trying to love Guerlains. It's the sweetish puddingy notes that I find unsettling. The perfumes are superbly blended and I admire them. I just don't like many of them on me. Are there any green bitter chypres or a dry leather types in the Guerlain range?
I have smelled Samsara, Shalimar, Mitsouko, L'heure Blue, about three Aqua Allegorias ( I cannot remember which at the moment), I think I've smelled Cologne du 68, and I have a few in hand to smell. There are only 248 in the directory so there must be something I love there. I will just have to smell more..... oh dear
I'm going to resurrect some reviews made from long ago on a sample pass:-
180 Ans - This on me is something like almonds, possibly vanilla, lemony turning to orange flower with a touch of rum and spice. It reminds me of the smell of the Christmas pudding mixture but as a gentle perfume. Also a bit like baby powder with almonds in. Not what I was expecting but very well blended and it presents itself gracefully. After 30 minutes on my skin it gets a bit peachy for me, but I cannot wear Mitsouko either and I turn Shalimar to powder.... It dried down rather softly and wasn't my sort of smell, but is obviously well blended and I can see it will be lovely on the right skin. This voyage of Guerlain will be very interesting for me.
Cuir Beluga - Guerlain - I'm getting spices and powder. It smells like a very subtle Moroccan market stall. Hot vanilla and something like cardomon with a hint of nuts and fruit skins, maybe apricots. There are new leather jackets hanging in the distance giving a sharp newly cured note, like an almondy note, almost like a chocolate vanilla with a tiny lifting top note similar to a menthol lift without the mint. Not a young persons smell. It dries down to a sophisticated velvety, spicy, vanilla powder and remains there for ages. I'm not sure I would like to wear this. The sharp note on the vanilla reminds me too much of baby sick, albeit not unpleasant.
Attrape Coeur - Guerlain - Exactly as a perfume should be in my textbook version in my head. Opening slightly spicy, heady, heavy floral creamy heliotrope with the changes morphing very gently and imperceptably. It reminds me of a dark violet flower opening slowly up on my hand, gently allowing me to smell deeper and deeper to a creamy centre. There is a fruity note lifting it away from the cloying zone, but not dominating. It melts gently into a soft bed of ambery, spicy, flower petals but doesn't ever get too floral or too vanilla. This is my favourite Guerlain so far and I think my favourite of all the pass the parcel frags so far. I may have to buy this one. It feels classy, womanly and sophisticated.
Angelique Noire - Guerlain - This gave a sharp greenish blast initially but settled down quickly to a gentle sweetie-esque green powder. It has a slight sharp edge that I do like along with a faint peppery note, although that could be me. This one reminds me of just bathed babies covered in Johnsons baby powder. Too sweet for me but a pleasant enough smell. I like the green note of it and would like to use it in my perfumes. I would be curious to know it's full ingredients list.
Gourmand Coquin - Guerlain - Across between a fluffy cat and pudding. Then on comes the vanilla talc again with cafe au lait and an underlying musky, dusty smell. Wierd at first, but gets nicer as it goes along. I definitely wouldn't wear this one, I would rather drink it before I went to bed. It has a Ovaltine type comforting smell, almost malty.
Philtre d'Amour - Guerlain - At last a let up from talc...A bright and cheerful citrus and spice beginning. Very fresh and with a twist of a barley sugar. This would be a lovely aftershave on a man. Lovely and fresh for a hot sunny day.
Boise Torride - Guerlain - I like the opening of this. Spicy sweeties with woody oranges. It reminds me of Christmas and wood polish. I see this on a man too. I love orientals so I like this one. It is very gentle and lovely on the spicy notes.
Purple Fantasy - Guerlain - This reminds me of jasmine rice with a delicate lemongrass flavoured thai meal. There is a tiny hint of something like caramel there too. I didn't mind it but it isn't a classic.
My Guerlain summary is that I am delighted to have had the opportunity to try these lovely fragrances, so thank you very much. The quality of Guerlain sings out loud and clear, even if I didn't like the blend.