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Problems with topnotes of Classic Leathers (Knize 10, Cuir de Russie, Lancome, Mauresque))

post #1 of 26
11/8/12 at 6:00am
Thread Starter 
Lately I'm in a mood for leather based fragrances, specially the ones that verge to the classics.

My favorite of all time is Chanel Cuir de Russie. I own the vintage EDC and the Current Les Exclusifs EDT, and while they're very different I love both.
But the opening with aldehydes isnt my favorite part, while I do love the drydown.

Second favorite is Cuir de Lancome, which dont have a great opening for me too (dried fruits).

Cuir Ottoman is another that i Love, but the opening didnt help either (rubbery latex).

Knize Ten and Cuir mauresque have the most problematic opening for me, that crude and raw leather are almost disgusting to me. BUT the dry down of both are divine, i LOVE LOVE LOVE it.

Is there a chance for me to find my perfect leather based fragrance, with that amazing dry down of all mentioned fragrances, without a problematic opening?
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post #2 of 26
11/8/12 at 6:16am
Just be grateful its only the opening. At least it disappears after 5-10 minutes.

I can handle an bad opening if the middle and dry down is fabulous.

It seems to be the raw tanner's yard opening you have the problem with. I do find Cuir Mauresque very raw in the opening, but it does not really bother me. The Chanel is very smooth all the way from beginning to dry down, to be honest I have never found another like it.

You could try Balmain Jolie Madam which is all raw leather and violets in the opening.
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post #3 of 26
11/8/12 at 6:36am
ELdO Tom of Finland has a very smooth opening of saffron and lemon. The suede leather becomes evident only later on. It is a true leather frag only in the drydown.

I only have vintage Jolie Madame, and agree that the opening is not leathery, it's a prim violet. The underlying leather however is very butch and hard, like that of Bandit, and I have the impression you might not be a fan. I don't know how current Jolie Madame compares.

cacio
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post #4 of 26
11/8/12 at 6:55am
Hi Daniel. I understand what you mean. I'm lucky because I like quite raw leathery notes but I have a problem with some leathers too. I get a sort of "plasticine" note in the opening which I find unpleasant. Like you I loooove the drydown though. What about some of the other Iris/Leathers? They might interest you if you like Cuir De Russie. Cuir D'Iris and Cuir Ottoman spring to mind, BUT you mentioned Cuir Ottoman and the rubbery latex note. Well said, that is what I mean by plasticine!!

If you get the chance give Xerjoff 1717 Homme a try. It is an Iris Leather too. Rich and beautiful. No rawness there, well except maybe in your wallet!
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post #5 of 26
11/8/12 at 7:34am
I enjoy the butch leathers, but I also love the more refined suedes, like SL Daim Blond (sweet apricot, iris, and suede) and Arquiste Aleksandr (violets and suede). If you don't have a sweet tooth, though, I'd suggest trying Aleksandr.

Bottega Veneta is also quite nice but with jasmine instead of violets. However, it wears a little flat for me.

I don't know if these venture too far from the classic leather you're looking for, but I don't find anything unpleasant in the opening of any of them (no aldehydes or latex!!!).
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post #6 of 26
11/8/12 at 7:50am
Agree with Foustie, try Parfumerie Generale Cuir d'Iris and see if it helps. It opens with a pretty clear leather and drifts to iris/leather and pretty much stays put. Maybe a little amber leatherish in the final drydown. It reminds me a bit of the current Chanel EDT without barnyard and with iris maybe a tad stronger.
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post #7 of 26
11/8/12 at 8:00am
Absolutely Cello. Both Cuir D'Iris and Cuir Ottoman are beautiful fragrances. But you know, for me, BOTH of them are tainted with the same note that I percieve as a plasticine smell in the opening (Daniels rubber latex). I lament this because I adore them both. I am really interested that Daniel gets this too. I get a totty wee bit from Cuir de Russie but not so obvious and it is quickly taken over by plush leather. That is why the Chanel is the best wear of the three for me. It sounds like Daniel may be the same. The Xerjoff didn't have it at all, just luxurious leather and Iris all the way. Have you managed to try it Cello? If not it is a must try for you. One of my American friends sent me a sample. It's drained now. I don't know how easy they are to come by.

Keep this thread going Daniel?
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post #8 of 26
11/8/12 at 8:34am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foustie View Post

Absolutely Cello. Both Cuir D'Iris and Cuir Ottoman are beautiful fragrances. But you know, for me, BOTH of them are tainted with the same note that I percieve as a plasticine smell in the opening (Daniels rubber latex). I lament this because I adore them both. I am really interested that Daniel gets this too. I get a totty wee bit from Cuir de Russie but not so obvious and it is quickly taken over by plush leather. That is why the Chanel is the best wear of the three for me. It sounds like Daniel may be the same. The Xerjoff didn't have it at all, just luxurious leather and Iris all the way. Have you managed to try it Cello? If not it is a must try for you. One of my American friends sent me a sample. It's drained now. I don't know how easy they are to come by.

I agree, that opening of Cuir Ottoman reminds me something like a new doll. Its not disgusting at all, actually kinda funny, but not nearly as luxurious as I would like.
I agree that Cuir de Russie wears almost perfect on me, only that I dont like the aldehydic opening that much.

I would seek for a sample of the Xerjoff, but Im a bit afraid of loving it for its price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Foustie View Post

Keep this thread going Daniel?

For sure, im loving the help and the discussion itself.
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post #9 of 26
11/8/12 at 8:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foustie View Post

Absolutely Cello. Both Cuir D'Iris and Cuir Ottoman are beautiful fragrances. But you know, for me, BOTH of them are tainted with the same note that I percieve as a plasticine smell in the opening (Daniels rubber latex). I lament this because I adore them both. I am really interested that Daniel gets this too. I get a totty wee bit from Cuir de Russie but not so obvious and it is quickly taken over by plush leather. That is why the Chanel is the best wear of the three for me. It sounds like Daniel may be the same. The Xerjoff didn't have it at all, just luxurious leather and Iris all the way. Have you managed to try it Cello? If not it is a must try for you. One of my American friends sent me a sample. It's drained now. I don't know how easy they are to come by.

Keep this thread going Daniel?

Hmmm, I just wore my sample a couple of times this week, but I am sure I did not focus on the opening. Now I will again. But then, the aldehyde opening in Cuir de Russe does not bother me at all, as I am used to the "Chanel blast" The barnyard aspect does sometimes bother me in Cuir de Russe, since it is, indeed, the smooth iris leather that I am after.

I Cuir d'Iris again, and concentrate on the opening. And believe it or not, I had the whole line of Xerjoff at my sampling beck and call, but ran out of time and needed to post them forward. I did not try Homme, as I was not after that type of fragrance at the time. Doh!!!!! I'll get my hands on it again sometime soon, as I trust your advice
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post #10 of 26
11/8/12 at 9:58am
Je Suis un Homme is not as harsh as CM & K10.

Then theres leather Oud which is challenging but on a different media (fecal vs brutal hide).
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post #11 of 26
11/8/12 at 10:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cello View Post

... And believe it or not, I had the whole line of Xerjoff at my sampling beck and call, but ran out of time and needed to post them forward. I did not try Homme, as I was not after that type of fragrance at the time. Doh!!!!! I'll get my hands on it again sometime soon, as I trust your advice

Cello - I have a sample which came from Foustie a while back. There's still a decent amount left and it's yours if you'll PM me your address.
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post #12 of 26
11/8/12 at 10:25am
Yes Parfumerie Generale Cuir d'Iris is like old leather books.
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post #13 of 26
1/16/13 at 9:09pm
Old-ish thread but I wanted to chime in here: Cuir Fétiche by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier opens with a nice mandarin-dominated citrus followed by a beautiful leather-ambergris accord. No raw leather in the opening at all and it's a nice ambery-leather, similar to the fragrances that you referenced above.
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post #14 of 26
1/17/13 at 12:34am
my favourite leather so far is Montale Cuir d Arabie , because this is 100% luxury leather

Chanels is styrax -iris, smoke combo! its too bitter, dry, and vegetal, because of that much iris, it pretends to be Cuir, but i never felt it that way, the only leather i get is barnyard smell, that fortunately doesn't last too long, so was demanding for me to like it but i liked how iris smokes from it, its radiant all day, but too dry and too bitter compared to Montale, which is mmmmm so yummie

Lancome is another one i really like!!! becasue of its beautiful floral heart, its like easy leather to me, feminine and so modern, elegant! Sweetish in a way! i dont like when leather is bitter-dry, and here its not as well!

Edit: i should have said powdery instead of dry, i just tried Onda, its very similar way where Chanels is going, smells barnyardish but raw, and i like it better, Chanels is synthetic
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post #15 of 26
1/17/13 at 4:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by andregooren View Post

Old-ish thread but I wanted to chime in here: Cuir Fétiche by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier opens with a nice mandarin-dominated citrus followed by a beautiful leather-ambergris accord. No raw leather in the opening at all and it's a nice ambery-leather, similar to the fragrances that you referenced above.

Glad to see this thread revived. I missed it first time round. Daniel's query and everyone's input are excellent.

ExtremeK, you really like sweet leather? Me, too. I look forward to your reaction to Tom Ford Tuscan Leather. Sweet raspberry and raw leather clashing and harmonious all at once.

I can develop a liking for aldehydes or rubber when they announce the arrival of something like Cuir de Russie or Bulgari Black, but a plasticine or plastc or vinyl smell makes me hold my breath, a reflex to not inhale what my body perceives to be a bad agent.
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post #16 of 26
1/17/13 at 4:30am
Thread Starter 
I Agree that this thread have a lot of great replyes and Im grateful. iivanita, you have mentioned Montale Aoud Cuir dArabie and curiously i was just buying it from zahras (125usd). Lets hope i can find my perfect leather soon or later.

Another one that I will be buying soon (or at least when I find it to buy) is Tabac Blond.

Cuir dIris by parfumerie generale is another one that Im tempting to buy but i will get the montale first as I have a friend to split 50% of the bottle with me. Shame that Montale dont sell directly anymore, would be nice to get it from them.
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post #17 of 26
1/17/13 at 4:45am
My two favorite leathers are Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur, which has a smooth violet opening. My other if you can find it is Creed Royal English Leather, which is a smooth leather from beginning to end.
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post #18 of 26
1/17/13 at 5:07am
Thread Starter 
Hmmm that Heeley sounds great too, the violet is the flower or the leaves?
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post #19 of 26
1/17/13 at 7:00am
Divine Infant by ELdO actually has no leather in the top or heart notes, but the base is full on.
Cuir Fetiche is surprisingly mild throughout.
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post #20 of 26
1/17/13 at 9:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quarry View Post

ExtremeK, you really like sweet leather? Me, too. I look forward to your reaction to Tom Ford Tuscan Leather. Sweet raspberry and raw leather clashing and harmonious all at once.

Quarry, I *adore* sweet leathers. Honestly, I have a ridiculous olfactory sweet tooth, so my love of sweet extends beyond leathers. I can't wait to try Tuscan Leather!

And Kaern's right! I can't believe I forgot about ELdO Divin'Enfant. The leather in the base is really fantastic although it, too, is on the sweet side. (Naturally.)

For another completely different leather that I only just discovered, Slumberhouse Jeke is a powerhouse spicy, woody, leather, with the leather dominating the drydown. It's not smooth and it's not classic, but it's also not stinky. It's a big, bold spicy leather, evocative of a well-established, wood-paneled, men's club with heavy leather furniture and lingering pipe tobacco in the air. Terrific stuff, but it's about as far from Cuir de Russie as you could imagine.
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post #21 of 26
1/17/13 at 10:37am
My current favorite is Mona di Orio's Cuir, but it is quite potent and may put you off. I know it put me off the first few times I tried it, then I fell in love.
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post #22 of 26
1/17/13 at 1:16pm
It's nice to see this thread active again.

Ramon Monegal has two leathers, each very different from the other. Cuirelle, a very soft honeyed suede, and Mon Cuir an unusual leather, animalic and floral at the same time. For men and women but definately well on the masculine side.
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post #23 of 26
1/17/13 at 2:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PalmBeach View Post

My two favorite leathers are Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur, which has a smooth violet opening. My other if you can find it is Creed Royal English Leather, which is a smooth leather from beginning to end.

I've never been particularly fond of Cuir Pleine Fleur, but not for lack of trying. There's a licorice-like note in there that just totally ruins it for me and it's quite a bit softer than I would like.

Royal English Leather, on the other hand is another favorite of mine. However, I decided not to mention it as many find the opening challenging. Also, I believe it is no longer available. Sad story.

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:
Originally Posted by d4N13L View Post

Hmmm that Heeley sounds great too, the violet is the flower or the leaves?

Violet flower.

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:
Originally Posted by Foustie View Post

It's nice to see this thread active again.

Ramon Monegal has two leathers, each very different from the other. Cuirelle, a very soft honeyed suede, and Mon Cuir an unusual leather, animalic and floral at the same time. For men and women but definately well on the masculine side.

I had a chance to try most of the Monegal line this summer. Being a fan of leathers, I was excited about Cuirelle; unfortunately, I found it rather disappointing. I might need to revisit it though; it seems to be quite popular here on basenotes. Mon Cuir wasn't included in the set of samples and, because of my experience with the rest of the line (the fragrances were much better on paper than they were on skin), I just never bothered to check it out. I'm definitely intrigued by your description of the scent as an animalic floral—it sounds right up my alley!
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post #24 of 26
1/17/13 at 11:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by d4N13L View Post

Another one that I will be buying soon (or at least when I find it to buy) is Tabac Blond...

I think this one might solve your dilemma. It is, my VERY FAVORITE. I own the extrait.
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post #25 of 26
1/18/13 at 10:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by andregooren View Post

...
I had a chance to try most of the Monegal line this summer. Being a fan of leathers, I was excited about Cuirelle; unfortunately, I found it rather disappointing. I might need to revisit it though; it seems to be quite popular here on basenotes. Mon Cuir wasn't included in the set of samples and, because of my experience with the rest of the line (the fragrances were much better on paper than they were on skin), I just never bothered to check it out. I'm definitely intrigued by your description of the scent as an animalic floral—it sounds right up my alley!

I was disappointed by Cuirelle, too. It pretty much reminds me of a perfume I once had: „Les Grandes Prêtresses Incas” by Roméa D'Améor. A gourmand scent.
It's surely not of the same calibre as the classic leathers but if you get a chance, try „White Suede” by Tom Ford.
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post #26 of 26
1/24/13 at 10:17pm
Try Eau Sauvage Fraiche Cuir....Lovely scent.
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