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Osmanthus absolute

post #1 of 11
11/14/12 at 1:14pm
Thread Starter 
Dear Basenoters,

I have finally received my 5 ml of Osmanthus absolute from the supplier I had already expressed my doubts about here: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/314...lutes-supplier.

Now, I have never smelled the real thing, but this is a great deal far from my expectations: it is a green, soapy and synthetically fruity note (very much like cheap shower gel) and has nothing of the sweet, peachy/apricot tones that I found in various descriptions and by no means similar to the beautiful smell of the Osmanthus flowers.

However, I might be wrong and this is the real thing and I just don't like it, but I have doubts.

Any thoughts?
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post #2 of 11
11/14/12 at 1:37pm
The absolute may not smell exactly like the material it's extracted from. With that said, I also suspect that you received a synthetic fake.
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post #3 of 11
11/14/12 at 4:18pm
From what I remember, the smell is floral (of course) slightly fruity and actually vaguely resembles the smell of peach (is not predominant).

Try diluting in alcohol (about 10%) and see if the smell is close to what you expected. Put one or two drops (pure) in a paper towel (or smelling strip - or watercolor paper) and see if the stain of oil on the paper continues even after not smell any more. If this happens, it may be an indication that the oil is fake or has been adulterate.
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post #4 of 11
11/14/12 at 4:23pm
Osmanthus is quite soapy and fruity.

http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/ab1000081.html

- - - Updated - - -

But not cheap....
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post #5 of 11
11/14/12 at 4:47pm
I've just been down to check on my own osmanthus absolute - it isn't something I keep in large amounts of use often.

Mine is already diluted in ethanol and that will be a factor. It's certainly got a soapy edge to it - to me only slight but very persistent - however I've noticed that some people are much more sensitive to soapy notes than I am. It has a green note, but also a dark, earthy quality - almost like old leather - and a fruity, violet floral (methyl ionone & beta ionone) note, which I suspect many people will experience as fresh raspberry-like. It's very complex and deep, but really not much like smelling the flowers.

Hope that helps a bit.
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post #6 of 11
11/15/12 at 12:50am
Thread Starter 
Thanks all.

I am getting more and more convinced that what I received is some synthetic copy of the original. It does not only have a soapy note: it is soapy all the way through, like a freshly cut grass just being shampooed with loads of cheap department store shower gel. It reminds me of fragrance oils for burners you get for few quids in many Camden Town shops. Furthermore, it leaves a thin, glittering, silver-like patina on the smelling strip's surface, and I don't know how to interpret this.

I think the decisive test would be smelling the real McCoy, though
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post #7 of 11
11/15/12 at 1:47am
Can't add much to the good comments made but; how thick is your sample? Osmanthus abs is usually quite viscous. The smell is fruity, usually described as Apricot. I have never smelled a "cut grass" note (this would imply cis-3-hexenol/hexeyl acetate) in Osmanthus. Also, have you checked how soluble your sample is in Perfumer's alcohol. As an Absoute it should be completely soluble.

I think both Biolandes and Monique Remy supply Osmanthus abs. but I doubt if they would let you have a free sample as it is very expensive. No harm in asking though.
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post #8 of 11
11/15/12 at 2:06am
Thread Starter 
The oil is quite thick, yes. But what makes me suspectful is the total absence of that fruity note that most descriptions of the absolute report. Yes, apricot I would have expected (a strong, delightful smell of cooked apricots is what you get when Osmanthus gives its second blossoming in September - and this is what made me want to try the absolute), but I can't get any, honestly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post

Can't add much to the good comments made but; how thick is your sample? Osmanthus abs is usually quite viscous. The smell is fruity, usually described as Apricot. I have never smelled a "cut grass" note (this would imply cis-3-hexenol/hexeyl acetate) in Osmanthus. Also, have you checked how soluble your sample is in Perfumer's alcohol. As an Absoute it should be completely soluble.

I think both Biolandes and Monique Remy supply Osmanthus abs. but I doubt if they would let you have a free sample as it is very expensive. No harm in asking though.
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post #9 of 11
11/16/12 at 3:06am
If the apricot note is missing, then I would be suspicious.
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post #10 of 11
11/16/12 at 9:07am
Thread Starter 
Ok, just smelled the real thing. What I have bought from the Aromatherapy Shop is a horrible fake, I can now say. Not only it is synthetic, but the copy has been made with no idea of the original whatsoever. I will ask the money back as he had assured me by email, prior to the purchase, that wat I was about to get was real, pure Osmanthus absolute
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post #11 of 11
11/16/12 at 11:03am
Good luck, and I'm sorry that you had to experience this. There are a lot of crooks out there.
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