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L'Heure de Nuit by Guerlain - NEW scent!

post #1 of 36
Thread Starter 
Perhaps you haven't heard about this, but Guerlain is releasing a Thierry Wasser Eau de Parfum version of the classic L'Heure Bleue (1912) fragrance. Supposed to have a full release in 2013, but a friend hooked me up with a sample (en route to me) so I am looking forward to smelling it.

I loved LhB the first time I encountered it (in vintage Eau de Cologne), I really got the intense, Middle-Eastern sort of spiciness mixed with Guerlinade and that pastry-smell. Powdery, yes, but not annoyingly so. Very bittersweet, emotional - I remember sitting at my desk in my office, staring at the computer screen...silent for about a few minutes, totally frozen and just soaking that juice up in my brain. I will never forget that. After that I tried the 'new' Parfum which was nice, but I didn't really get enough juice to properly sample it and form an opinion. After this, I got the opportunity to participate in a massive bottle split of vintage Parfum de Toilette (which prior to this I had never smelled) and I loved it immediately when I got a bottle of it - of course more radiant and sharp than the EdC it is still just as spicy, and I have to be careful not to over apply it, since it becomes mondo-powdery (Ray has commented a few times on it, that I smell like 'baby powder'). The Eau de Toilette was the last version I sampled - I instantly disliked it because it intensified all of the parts of LhB that I didn't like (ultra powdery, less spicy, more of a musky sort of sour floral)...so I have avoided this version all together.

Now, we have new version. Very interested to smell it.

I also am so glad that Guerlain didn't come out with a full-on flanker of LhB, like L'Heure Bleue Nuit, instead they are coming out with a new fragrance name, that's bio/marketing explains the link to LhB. I appreciate this, since IMO, this always annoyed me about Guerlain with their endless Shalimar, Vetiver, Habit Rouge and Mitsouko flankers...some of which have NOTHING to do with the original scent (like that Body Spray that has Vol de Nuit in the name...WTH!?).

I'm still not sure if I like the blue juice...

post #2 of 36
I've seen it! One of the girls at Facebook Fragrance Friends organized a split of it. Unfortunately I wasn't fast enough to sign up for a decant
post #3 of 36
Thread Starter 
Ah, so it is for sale already?
post #4 of 36
Thanks for the info, Mike. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts on it and to trying it !
post #5 of 36
Our very own friend Billy is hosting a split of this fragrance since last week, for an amazing price:

http://www.basenotes.net/threads/308...4Heure-De-Nuit

Lets jump fellas?
post #6 of 36
Thread Starter 
I don't see one single review online...looking forward to hearing someones comments on this one.

- - - Updated - - -

I see Surrender to Chance is selling 2 ml decants: http://surrendertochance.com/guerlai...gularly-12-92/
post #7 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post






I'm still not sure if I like the blue juice...


oh hellz yes!
post #8 of 36
The blue colour in that beautiful bottle is just absolutely stunning.
post #9 of 36
My order is in!! Can't wait. I want it NOW!
post #10 of 36
Genie, congrats!. Let us know how you like it!!!
post #11 of 36
Thanks for the info. WIll NOT go out of the way to test it, will try only if an opportunity presents itself.
post #12 of 36
From Perfume Shrine:

Regarding the composition of L'Heure de Nuit, as mentioned on these pages, Thierry Wasser offers a new version: The powdery base notes are irresistibly endearing, as the L'Heure Bleue lovers like them so much. Under his leadership, the scent is sweet, illuminated with new freshness and modernity. The white musk mingles with iris. Heliotrope is combined with orange blossom accents to make it more marshmallow-like, powdery but with a gourmand note like a veil. The old version will be still available alongside the centenary editions in all concentrations for the fans.
post #13 of 36
Well, Wasser's reformulation of L'Heure Bleue was sufficient for my part, but I will give this new jus a fair chance when in Paris next year. I'm not terribly excited though. I also think the blue juice looks cheap. I expect this to be diabetes type II kind of sweet as most Wasser creations are.
post #14 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larimar View Post

I also think the blue juice looks cheap.

I agree. Reminds me of one of those blue slushie type drinks.
post #15 of 36
Any reviews?
post #16 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadesofbleu View Post

oh hellz yes!

(giggle)
post #17 of 36
I hope the perfume is as mesmerizing as that beautiful shade of blue.
post #18 of 36
Well, I like it.

It's L'Heure Bleue, but it has a very different 'presence'. The anise / carnation or whatever says 'spicy' for some is dialled down and for me this pulls back the heavy curtains and lets the light come in, albeit diffused and opaque, as if filtered thru high quality cotton blinds. I mention "light coming in" because . . . maybe it's the colour of the juice, maybe it's because I first encountered it under the name 'Le Zenith', maybe it's just the brighter mood, but to me this more of an 'apres midi' than 'le nuit'.

I am not great at discerning florals, but something more upbeat than usual in L'HB seems to have been brought forward and balanced with the a hint of sweetness a la Guerlinade, but again 'lighter', hovering a little, and it all rests on a very subtle musk, which seems to hold the whole thing together in a sort of state of suspended afternoon languor. I'll cease and desist soon or the metaphors will get even more mangled.

For what it's worth: this will not replace L'Heure Bleue, clearly it's not meant to. I think for the more open minded who love L'HB this one will work as a terrific relaxed, casual Friday version. Ever had days when maybe L'HB might feel just a little too much of a statement? This is perfect, bordering on 'sheer' - it will never be accused of melancholy, that's for sure.

On the other hand, for the younger audience who might be slightly intimidated by L'HB but want something different, a little more uplifting but also more refined and not yet another fruity floral, then I think L'Heure de Nuit might be just great. My guess is that it will pull in a whole new audience as well. And given the genesis of this, the uber-luxe Anniversary set, it would make sense to me to consider an EDT and Extrait at some point, the ground work is already done so why not?

I'm wearing a spritz as I write just to remind myself of the impressions from over the last couple of weeks and while I will always be on the lookout for any vintage L'HB I can find (it is my favourite) I look forward to having a bottle of this when it turns up.
post #19 of 36
That's the most synthetic blue I've ever seen... liquid detergent, maybe? I certainly hope to bits that the juice is good.
post #20 of 36
Thank you for sharing your thoughts Mr Reasonable on the new L'Heure de Nuit. It sounds worth giving a try, but no replacement for the original.
post #21 of 36
Hmmm. Huh. The official description sounds not so special, but Mr. R's interpretation (thanks so much) drew me back in. I'd rather the pretty cyan/cerulean blue had been lavished on the ribbon, stopper, label and atomiser than the juice, except that I want Shades to go full crazy with pleasure.
post #22 of 36
I found it ligheter, less powedery, brighter. While L'heure Bleue is pensive, Nuit is happier, more optimistic.
I agree with Mr. Reasonable, L'Heure Bleue will never be replaced, but this is a more relaxed alternative
post #23 of 36
I had a dream about this the other night ... I must give it a try!
post #24 of 36
Thread Starter 
Wearing this from my sample I just got in the mail last night.

I want to post a WHOLE BUNCH of impressions but I'm going to wait til later to do this, to give it time to develop. I like it. A lot. I can see a bottle of this in my future, for sure.

But I wanted to say this: The juice is NOT blue. It's a light amber colored, at least my sample in the glass vial was. So does that mean the BOTTLE is blue???
post #25 of 36
Interesting, Mike. I can't upload a pic right now but my decant from Le Zenith EDP bottle is very sky blue indeed. Look forward to hearing your thoughts.
post #26 of 36
Immediately takes top spot on the "I'm buying it for my wife for Christmas but it's really for me" list.
post #27 of 36
Thread Starter 
The scent is very much like L'Heure Bleue, so fans of the scent will immediately recognize the signature powder-French pastry-dusty/powdery accord from the original, however this new one is not as thick or as spicy. The top notes are so powder/musk centric that for the first 5-10 minutes after I applied my sample this morning I didn't like it - it reminded me of LhB EdT (which I intensely dislike). But then that signature LhB accord rose out of nowhere and totally encircled me in its soft Guerlinade yumminess. I found it almost perfect for today's cool, overcast, windy Miami weather and it lasted all the way through my afternoon gym workout and beyond. I would love to spray this on fabric to see if it sticks even longer.

Wasser and Guerlain have totally respected the classic scent of LhB and really done a wonderful job in interpreting it into something fresh, new and unique. I wouldn't call this a 'modern' scent because it features prominently such a 'vintage' and 'classic' smell but IMO the market is glutted with modern releases, I enjoy it when a new release tips it's hat towards the retro, back-in-the-day feeling like L'Heure de Nuit does.

Smelling this has made me fall even more in love with the LhB vintage Parfum de Toilette that I own.

If this smells this good I'm wondering how those other LhB 'versions' that Guerlian only released in that super expensive coffret (Mr. G posted about it on his blog here: http://monsieurguerlain2.blogspot.com/2008/06/news.html) smell...
post #28 of 36
Thanks mike! I wonder how closely it resembles the reformulated L'Heure Bleue Extrait that I had exchanged by Guerlain. Subdued florals I suppose?
post #29 of 36
The blue juice reminds me of 50s and 60s kitsch decor where cut glass bottles were filled with bright colored water. Goes well with clear plastic furniture coverings.
post #30 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larimar View Post

Thanks mike! I wonder how closely it resembles the reformulated L'Heure Bleue Extrait that I had exchanged by Guerlain. Subdued florals I suppose?

Larimar, wen I was at the Guerlain boutique I smelled 'new' LhB Extrait on a tester strip - I can see why it disappointed you. When one comes to the most concentrated forms of one of Guerlain's most revered and classic scents they expect to be dazzled and the 'new' juice just doesn't do this. I think I came to this new one with no such pre-conceived notions therefore I enjoyed it much more. It's wonderful details slowly revealed themselves to me, surprisingly...which I suppose is why I liked it so much.

I must also mention, I wore the entire 1 ml sample when I tested it - so don't be shy with this one, it's magic reveals itself in a healthy application.
post #31 of 36
Thanks Mike! The thrill of L'Heure Bleue for me is the florals, so that's why, I know. It seems to be a house standard now that 1-2 ml are required for proper sillage....
post #32 of 36
I'm testing L'Heure de Nuit today and I'm totally in love with it! The heliotrope is like a bright shining star, it just shimmers through the entire life of the fragrance, way into the basenotes. As Mike mentioned, the first 5 to 10 minutes were extremely powdery. I wondered how he even made it through those 10 minutes without scrubbing ... but if you do wait, the results are so worth it. I keep thinking about the heliotrope ... words like: luminous and radiant come to mind. I picture moonbeams piercing the deep blue night sky. Corny, I know.

Is there a word that means "opposite yet the same"? Because that's how I feel about L'Heure de Nuit compared to L'Heure Bleue. There is definitely a place for both in my collection. This has gone straight to the lust-list in record time.
post #33 of 36
Gorgeous bottle! Is it fairly unisex? If it's not, it wouldn't stop me from making a purchase. Just curious.
post #34 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jkidd View Post

Gorgeous bottle! Is it fairly unisex? If it's not, it wouldn't stop me from making a purchase. Just curious.

Unisex is such an interpretive word, but in my opinion I do not think it smells 'feminine' at all. Please try it.

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadesofbleu View Post

I'm testing L'Heure de Nuit today and I'm totally in love with it! The heliotrope is like a bright shining star, it just shimmers through the entire life of the fragrance, way into the basenotes. As Mike mentioned, the first 5 to 10 minutes were extremely powdery. I wondered how he even made it through those 10 minutes without scrubbing ... but if you do wait, the results are so worth it. I keep thinking about the heliotrope ... words like: luminous and radiant come to mind. I picture moonbeams piercing the deep blue night sky. Corny, I know.

Is there a word that means "opposite yet the same"? Because that's how I feel about L'Heure de Nuit compared to L'Heure Bleue. There is definitely a place for both in my collection. This has gone straight to the lust-list in record time.

Glad it's dazzled you S. Definitely Wasser did a really good job with this one.
post #35 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

The scent is very much like L'Heure Bleue, so fans of the scent will immediately recognize the signature powder-French pastry-dusty/powdery accord from the original, however this new one is not as thick or as spicy. The top notes are so powder/musk centric that for the first 5-10 minutes after I applied my sample this morning I didn't like it - it reminded me of LhB EdT (which I intensely dislike). But then that signature LhB accord rose out of nowhere and totally encircled me in its soft Guerlinade yumminess. I found it almost perfect for today's cool, overcast, windy Miami weather and it lasted all the way through my afternoon gym workout and beyond. I would love to spray this on fabric to see if it sticks even longer.

Wasser and Guerlain have totally respected the classic scent of LhB and really done a wonderful job in interpreting it into something fresh, new and unique. I wouldn't call this a 'modern' scent because it features prominently such a 'vintage' and 'classic' smell but IMO the market is glutted with modern releases, I enjoy it when a new release tips it's hat towards the retro, back-in-the-day feeling like L'Heure de Nuit does.

Smelling this has made me fall even more in love with the LhB vintage Parfum de Toilette that I own.

If this smells this good I'm wondering how those other LhB 'versions' that Guerlian only released in that super expensive coffret (Mr. G posted about it on his blog here: http://monsieurguerlain2.blogspot.com/2008/06/news.html) smell...

Nice review, Mike! You *have* to have the same stuff as me, no matter what the color. This totally rings a bell. Especially "signature powder-French pastry-dusty/powdery accord".

Have you ever checked your vision online? A huge percentage of men have different forms of color blindness. Not the same as my son's version of it - he sees L'HdN as pale blue, like the rest of us, but he has some interesting opinions on other colors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadesofbleu View Post

I'm testing L'Heure de Nuit today and I'm totally in love with it! The heliotrope is like a bright shining star, it just shimmers through the entire life of the fragrance, way into the basenotes. As Mike mentioned, the first 5 to 10 minutes were extremely powdery. I wondered how he even made it through those 10 minutes without scrubbing ... but if you do wait, the results are so worth it. I keep thinking about the heliotrope ... words like: luminous and radiant come to mind. I picture moonbeams piercing the deep blue night sky. Corny, I know.

Is there a word that means "opposite yet the same"? Because that's how I feel about L'Heure de Nuit compared to L'Heure Bleue. There is definitely a place for both in my collection. This has gone straight to the lust-list in record time.

I get that same image, shades! Bright, shimmering, shining, luminous, radiant - total agree!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jkidd View Post

Gorgeous bottle! Is it fairly unisex? If it's not, it wouldn't stop me from making a purchase. Just curious.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Unisex is such an interpretive word, but in my opinion I do not think it smells 'feminine' at all. Please try it.

My wife thought it was masculine, and when I first smelled it, I rejoiced that it seemed so guy-friendly. But on further wears, I have found that there's a part of it that is very young/innocent/frilly/dressy - and reminds me of (SO strange) antique dolls. Weird, I know, but that's just what it evokes in me. At other times - nothing earthly - very non-gendered. And the powder kind of drifts in and out of being masculine or feminine.

But I'll put it this way - no woman should be afraid to wear this. Nor most men.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Glad it's dazzled you S. Definitely Wasser did a really good job with this one.

Yeah. This is good stuff. I walked away from L'HB and bought Derby. Not sure that can happen here.
post #36 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post

Nice review, Mike! You *have* to have the same stuff as me, no matter what the color. This totally rings a bell. Especially "signature powder-French pastry-dusty/powdery accord".

Have you ever checked your vision online? A huge percentage of men have different forms of color blindness. Not the same as my son's version of it - he sees L'HdN as pale blue, like the rest of us, but he has some interesting opinions on other colors...

...I have found that there's a part of it that is very young/innocent/frilly/dressy - and reminds me of (SO strange) antique dolls. Weird, I know, but that's just what it evokes in me....

I never thought of that...well I had the sample on my desk for a while & even Ray didn't mention anything about the blue color. Very strange.

Yes, I get the 'antique dolls' image, it's hard to put into words but it's something old and slightly sweet and damp.
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