Originally Posted by teardrop
Assid, please do seek out the EDT! l think you'll find that the "rough edges & intellectual vigour" are still very much alive in this one.
Thanks teardrop - I fully intend to - the fragrance pyramids read quite differently for the two. At first I was comparing the listing for the EdT which has leather right at the front as a big gun, with the scent and I thought I was going mad as there was none coming from my wrist. Then I looked at the EdP listing and lo and behold - no leather. Likewise the benzoin is gone - I was really, really looking forward to this leather / benzoin combination it seems well - totally out there. I'm also a big, big fan of both notes.
What the EdP does have is Mastic - another sweet resin - and nutmeg a-plenty, which does give it a slightly off kilter feel as I hope the review conveyed.
This is not a bad perfume, it was just so much more restrained than I was hoping and expecting.
I feel I have unfinished business with Habanita and am eyeing up some vintage EdT right now.
Thanks for the comments.- - - Updated - - -
A perfume that some associate with more mature women. Well, only in part I feel...Lanvin Arpege
Arpege is an unnerving child.
Arriving at the neat counterfeit of a country cottage that is her parents' - your dear friend Andre and his wife Jeanne - 'little piece of Laguedoc in the suburbs' - she comes across as willful, headstrong, almost unhinged.
Asked to collect flowers for the house from the Fraysee's beautiful garden she (Margaret is her given name, used exclusively by her mother when upset with her, which is often) turns almost feral, a teen on a chemical kick she rushes around the manicured borders (themselves pretending after the style of rural meadows) pulling up plants careless of their complexion or the destruction she is reeking.
Eventually she dumps them all: Jasmine, Rose, Iris, Lily, Lily of the Valley and even the precious camelias from the cloche in a series of unwashed carafes still sour with the stench of last night's rough white wine.
In the music room, where she places three flower rammed vessels in a row atop an apparently out of tune upright piano the smell is approaching the unbearable.
When Arpege starts to hammer out her chromatic scales, you notice that it is her playing and not the instrument that is off-key, and more to the point quite deliberately.
You exchange a sly smile with the daughter of the house: she is affecting inability as accurately as only a truly useful musician can.
What feels like a brief conversation follows and she excuses herself to change for dinner.
Talking politics and the economy and the desperate state of things since the crash as the women prepare, Andre teaches you a new aperitif - vanilla Martinis - the latest American way of forgetting.
Jeanne enters, elegant as ever.
Then Arpege, her hair tied up and and held in place with? With a pencil, an artist's pencil. At dinner she grows with a glass of wine in hand into what you realise she now is: a young woman. Well read, she speaks eloquently of Eliot and that woman Woolf and fragrant. Is it her mother's sandalwood or father's vetiver that envelopes her?.
After the meal you retire to sweet Amaretto's and sweeter Chopin, played by the same delicate hands that earlier tore up roots with such urgency and blundered through elementary piano exercises.
And then she is gone, an early night, for after all she is merely on the cusp of womanhood. A promise of a future of greatness, or perhaps an echo of her mother's magnificent past.
Arpege, even in its reigned in contemporary form, is a tough and strange perfume to get to know. Her behaviour in the opening notes is by most measures quite unsettling and to some noses rather upsetting.
But forbearance and a little understanding sees the acidic aledhyde blossom into first a full-bodied floral and then a warm-hearted almost wooded amber scent, that never looses its edgy integrity. Arpege can give the best in this class - including the biggest names - a run for their money.
I long to meet her mother - the true vintage.- - - Updated - - -If you read these reviews regularly, you might be interested to know that you can help decide what perfume I wear each day and review the following.
I post the results at around midnight GMT and the options for the following day below, just post your favourites on this thread...
It's a little after midnight. London. The lines are closed.
Finally, a very clear winner.Today, 11th December 2012, I will be wearing:
Jean Desprez Bal a VersaillesWhat will I wear tomorrow? Choose from the following 10...
CoSTUME NATIONAL Scent Intense
Dolce&Gabbana D&G Light Blue
Chanel Les Exclusifs de Chanel Coromandel
Givenchy Absolutely Irresistible
Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady
Prada Prada (Amber)
Hermes Eau des Merveilles
Guerlain L'Heure Bleue
... or the newcomer...
Chanel Chanel N°19
Rule Change: All previous votes count towards a fragrance's running total and every participant gets a new vote every day!
You have just under twenty four hours... starting now.