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Jour d'Hermes by Hermes - NEW FRAGRANCE!

post #1 of 32
Thread Starter 
The perfumer, Jean Claude Ellena said in a press release:

Quote:
...
I wanted to offer armfuls of flowers to smell, people could put in their own choice of flowers, smell what they wanted to smell. So: let it be a thousand flowers! Armfuls, bouquets, sprays, garden flowers, cut flowers, morning flowers, evening flowers, mischievous fragrances, bewitching smells, a whole profusion!

The blogger Bois de Jasmin reviews it here: http://boisdejasmin.com/2012/12/herm...tml#more-13588

Quote:
...My first impression was of crunchy, springlike sweetness reminiscent of hyacinth and lily of the valley. The fragrance grows warmer and richer when the summer blossomsjasmine, tuberose, ylang-ylang, become more pronounced. The orange blossom is a delicate leitmotif that sparkles in the top notes and then turns sultry in the drydown. You notice a swirl of violet, a hint of rose, and a squeeze of lemon juice, but overall, Jour dHermès is more than the sum of its parts. Green florals are a dime a dozen at the perfume counter, but this take is more refined and complex than most...

Octavian from 1000 Fragrances gave it a big thumbs up: http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2...w-perfume.html

Quote:
...The new dawn of a new style. The origins of the style are known - what Calice Becker did many years ago, today with other flowers, other molecules and very pure like a basket with one thousand different flowers blooming in the first hours of a day. Open the basket with the lost flowers from Guerlain (before the amber) and you have a new sublime naturalness - un parfum de sève au coeur des calices, a name like the old bottle. The new abstraction of JOUR is very beaux. What is left on the skin is a "new" musk vision because, when the musks are well chosen, they become "invisible", they act as if they were not there, on your skin. What you perceive is the effect of the perfume, not the odor, ...

Blogger Grain de Musc (who posted the above quote from JC Ellena) had this to say here: http://graindemusc.blogspot.com/2012...de-ellena.html

Quote:
...A sour splash of lemon on heady floral flesh: magnolia? Round green juiciness, like apple yet not apple tip of the tongue pear, the olfactory cousin of rose, offered up to our gnosis? (Gnōthi seautón, know thyself, read the inscription on Apollos temple in Delphi but its so hard to know what our nose knows). And so it goes: sweet pea, which is all at once orange blossom, rose and carnation? The delicate fruity greenness of gardenia, without the mushroomy rot. Something salty, definitely (ylang, lily, carnation?). A green, snapped-stem moistness that seems to be trending at the moment (its been obsessing me for months and Ive smelled it in two other future launches). A tinge of orange-blossom soapiness. And then an underlying, sexy-skin softness balsams, musk: Ellena can do sensuous in fact, I suspect his famously concise style is his way of harnessing a tremendous appetite and curiosity...




Available in 50 ml ($108), 85 ml ($149), and 125 ml refill ($130) at Hermès boutiques, at other retailers with Hermès counters & via Hermès website starting January 2013.

As far as I know the official notes have not been released. I am looking forward to smelling it myself.
post #2 of 32
I'm not a huge floral person but I gotta check this out!
post #3 of 32
Hermes hasn't had a flat out home run in a while ;since they reformulated Calache' IMO,so, who knows?
post #4 of 32
Clever marketing not specifying any particular notes. Simply that - clever marketing. YMMV
post #5 of 32
Thank you, Mike, for posting this. Will have to try.
post #6 of 32
True that. They are looking for this to be a pillar fragrance like Terre d'Hermes, but I don't know...
Reading the descriptions I'm not convinced this is it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by southerngardens View Post

Hermes hasn't had a flat out home run in a while ;since they reformulated Calache' IMO,so, who knows?
post #7 of 32
As opposed to Kaelee, I am a huge floral person (but they have to be blended just right) and will be interested to test it out. I know someone already posted in our SotD thread they wore it yesterday or a day before.

Thanks for posting this, MP.
post #8 of 32
Thank you so much, Mike, for throwing up a billboard notice about this Hermes floral. Lately a new fragrance has had to jump right in front of my headlights to get any attention as I'm always distracted by things other than perfumes.

This avalanche of florals with lemon and some greenery looks very promising, given my predilections.
post #9 of 32
Thanks Mike for your research and reporting. A new JCE release....oh, that just made my day! I'll look forward to sampling this.
post #10 of 32
I've worn this a couple of times now. It's a wonderfully blended, bright floral with a tart top that reminds me just a touch of Un Jardin sur le Nil. Longevity is surprisingly good and projection is moderate.
post #11 of 32
Good, that's what I want -- surprising and moderate, both. Thanks.
post #12 of 32
This Jour d'Hermes is being raved everywhere :-) It makes me very curious. So far, the only JCE scent I absolutely is Osmanthe Yunnan.
post #13 of 32
Osmanthe -- do you hate it or love it? The word is missing, I think.
post #14 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by L'Incandescent View Post

...a tart top that reminds me just a touch of Un Jardin sur le Nil...

Oh that is disappointing to me. That particular note you speak about is prevalent in a few Hermes releases and although I like it, it's not interesting to me anymore (I wore UJSLN and the body lotion for almost 2 years before I joined BN).

(sigh)
post #15 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

Oh that is disappointing to me. That particular note you speak about is prevalent in a few Hermes releases and although I like it, it's not interesting to me anymore (I wore UJSLN and the body lotion for almost 2 years before I joined BN).

(sigh)

I want to stress that that note is just at the top and that it's not exactly like UJSLN; it's just somewhat reminiscent. From there it develops in a very different direction. I think I read this on one of the online reviews (Bois de Jasmin?), and I agree completely: its a bright and very sunny, happy scent. But it's also quite restrained and demure. It's understated elegance in a bottle.
post #16 of 32
JCE scents wear very well on my skin.

I absolutely want to try this and I'm NOT a big floral person. They are "okay" but need to have something else going on to make them interesting. For example, I love Hiris, an iris soli-floral but it's got a lot happening within the scope of the scent.

This is available for purchase on the Hermes website now.
http://usa.hermes.com/perfumes/women/jour-d-hermes.html
post #17 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twolf View Post

Osmanthe -- do you hate it or love it? The word is missing, I think.

i love it! Blame my stupid phone!
post #18 of 32
I sniffed and tested this at our San Francisco Hermes boutique today. Still have it on my wrist. It's beautiful. Light (in a transparent, rather than tepid, way) and likable without being insipid. I'm strongly considering giving my mom a bottle for Christmas. Too feminine for me to wear myself, but a very enjoyable fragrance indeed.
post #19 of 32
I've had this on all day (from a sample obtained from Hermès.) I have mixed feelings about it.

The tart green opening is indeed reminiscent of Un Jardin Sur le Nil, but also grapefruit as in Rose Ikebana. I happen to enjoy that opening. There is also a warm, floral musk. I sprayed it on over 9 hours ago and the musk is still persisting-- and still has a floral quality to it.
I wonder if there is some carnation in this?

I'm having a hard time putting it all together...somehow my mind perceives either the cool green/citric note or the warm floral musk, but not both at the same time. I go back and forth between the two aspects-- like those optical illusions where you see either the 2 profiles or the goblet, but not both simultaneously. Odd. Maybe with more wearing I will get a more unified impression.

I generally don't like musk notes in perfume but this doesn't bother me, at all. It is not overly sweet, in fact, it's not overly anything. This is an inoffensive fragrance that could be worn anywhere. It doesn't captivate me but I do rather like it.

Bottom line: Try it.
post #20 of 32
Thread Starter 
Interesting impressions everyone.

30 Roses, did you have to apply a lot to get it to 'stick' for 9 hours, or just a normal application?
post #21 of 32
I liked it but didn't love it. If someone gave me a bottle I would wear it. The green notes are a bit foreign & I found them a bit jarring. It's not a green like you normally think. It's bright and has some crunch to it.

I much prefer the new-ish L'Ambre des Merveilles from this house.

However, the scent itself is so odd, I think it's going to sell very well for them.
post #22 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

30 Roses, did you have to apply a lot to get it to 'stick' for 9 hours, or just a normal application?

Two sprays to the chest, and it was still around 13 hours after application when I finally washed it off, not wanting to wear it to bed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RHM View Post

I liked it but didn't love it.... However, the scent itself is so odd, I think it's going to sell very well for them.

Agree with both statements.
post #23 of 32
I have tried it once and don't think I will be able to bring myself try it again. I get quite a bit of apple along with the (IMH) rather bland flower bouquet, and the combination disagrees with me. I love quite a few of Ellena's creations but this is not one of them.
post #24 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaisir View Post

I have tried it once and don't think I will be able to bring myself try it again. I get quite a bit of apple along with the (IMH) rather bland flower bouquet, and the combination disagrees with me. I love quite a few of Ellena's creations but this is not one of them.

Ewww. Apple? That's concerning.
post #25 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quarry View Post

Ewww. Apple? That's concerning.

I certainly get green apples, but maybe I am the only one?
post #26 of 32
I didn't get green apples.
post #27 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by 30 Roses View Post

I didn't get green apples.

I am curious to know whether you get any fruity notes? I ask because I first registered "fruity", then interpreted this as "apples"... This note doesn't in any way overshadow the florals (its almost like a filler note/background) but for me it is there :-(

Will be interesting to read what more BN members think of this fragrance seeing how it has gotten rave reviews on those blogs where has been reviewed so far (not many reviews yet though).
post #28 of 32
A sample is on its way.I'll probably smell something no one else is smelling. My powers of observation are famously dicey.
post #29 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaisir View Post

I am curious to know whether you get any fruity notes? I ask because I first registered "fruity", then interpreted this as "apples"... This note doesn't in any way overshadow the florals (its almost like a filler note/background) but for me it is there :-(

Will be interesting to read what more BN members think of this fragrance seeing how it has gotten rave reviews on those blogs where has been reviewed so far (not many reviews yet though).

I get the green mango note as in Un Jardin Sur le Nil and some grapefruit. I'm sure some got into my clothing because this fruit note lingered for hours.
post #30 of 32
I know, I know, I know for sure that some nose/brain connections and sockets are wired differently in me.
Where does anyone get anything related to flowers?
Initially I couldn't smell anything at all on paper. On skin I get a lot of sour with a pinch of stink.
I have not liked any of Ellena's Jardin series, so I guess this reaction should be no surprise.
As it dries down, the fragrance becomes more like a perfume.
I'll give it more time, and see if anything new evolves.
I do so struggle with 90-some percent of fragrances.

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:
Originally Posted by 30 Roses View Post

I go back and forth between the two aspects-- like those optical illusions where you see either the 2 profiles or the goblet, but not both simultaneously. Odd. Maybe with more wearing I will get a more unified impression.

Oh, brava, 30R, brava. That's a magnificent analogy.

The hours-later drydown seems to be playing a wee prank. It bears some resemblance to something I like a lot: Bond No. 9's Mothers. If you want a modern floral musk like that, Mothers provides a shortcut.
post #31 of 32
Yeah, floral musk. On our SotD thread I wrote it is more like deep fried, to the crackly crunch, lilies of the valley simmering in magnolia juice. I either do not like magnolia so much (Guerlain L'Instant would be a fine example of what my skin does not stomach), or there are too many flowers. I need some structure, or, vice versa, some "profusion" as they had promised but did not deliver. Everything is demure, not in your face, but still I will not be wearing this very often.

Thanks to 30R. for the advice on how to get a sample.
post #32 of 32
just a quick thought after testing it last week: does anybody smell the similarity to Heeley`s Ophelia, too?
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