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Osmanthus

post #1 of 13
12/10/12 at 10:07am
Thread Starter 
I'm trying to create an osmanthus perfume and am wondering what chemicals are good for supporting it. It reminds me, strangely, of oud and I can imagine it in an oud perfume. Would other woods be good? I read somewhere that benzaldehyde, C-16, and amyl butyrate can be used. Any thoughts?
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post #2 of 13
12/10/12 at 11:24am
I would use Aldehyde C14 (gamma Undecalactone) rather than C16 (Ethyl Methyl Phenyl Glycidate). C14 smells of Peach whilst C16 smells of Strawberry. Other lactones would also be useful ( gamma Decalactone etc.) Osmanthus has an Apricot note to it, so anything used to make an Apricot accord would be useful. There is a speciality material called Apritone, but I don't know if it commercially available. And a base called Nectaryl (can't remember who makes it). A touch of Buccu or Cassis would also help. I see you mean about Oud; there is a leathery animalic aspect to Osmanthus. Chinese Cedarwood could be useful. Anything ussed to make Leather accord (iso Butyl Quinolene and Birch Tar, in very small amounts).
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post #3 of 13
12/10/12 at 12:01pm
Thread Starter 
Oh, thank you that's very helpful. I will get into the lab and start experimenting. I've ordered 3 different osmanthus absolutes from Eden Botanicals, Enfleurage (in New York), and White Lotus Botanicals to compare them. I'll report back on my findings.
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post #4 of 13
12/10/12 at 2:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post

I would use Aldehyde C14 (gamma Undecalactone) rather than C16 (Ethyl Methyl Phenyl Glycidate). C14 smells of Peach whilst C16 smells of Strawberry. Other lactones would also be useful ( gamma Decalactone etc.) Osmanthus has an Apricot note to it, so anything used to make an Apricot accord would be useful. There is a speciality material called Apritone, but I don't know if it commercially available. And a base called Nectaryl (can't remember who makes it). A touch of Buccu or Cassis would also help. I see you mean about Oud; there is a leathery animalic aspect to Osmanthus. Chinese Cedarwood could be useful. Anything ussed to make Leather accord (iso Butyl Quinolene and Birch Tar, in very small amounts).

Very sound advice here, just to add that I've seen Apritone listed by Bedoukian though I've never used it.

Nectaryl is available at a reasonable price - it is made by Givaudan - and has a lovely peachy note that is almost good enough to be a peach accord on its own.
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post #5 of 13
12/11/12 at 3:11am
Also don't forget the floralicy of Osmanthus. It has aspects of both Jasmin and Tuberose (and Narcisse) so they shouldn't be forgotten.
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post #6 of 13
12/11/12 at 11:07am
I know you can get Nectaryl from the Perfumers Apprentice, and I think I saw Apritone available on creatingperfume.com (http://www.creatingperfume.com/apritone.aspx) but I don't see it on their site now.
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post #7 of 13
12/11/12 at 1:51pm
I just got an osmanthus absolute here: https://havenessence.com/?s=osmanthus. I cannot compare with other suppliers, but the smell is mind blowing (although I didn't expect the grey-ish, autumnal note that emerges from beneath the sweet, apricot note which reminds of the fresh blossoms).
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post #8 of 13
12/12/12 at 1:57am
Osmanthus absolute has a wonderful and complex smell. I wish it were used more often, and I wish there was more available.
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post #9 of 13
12/12/12 at 2:17am
I agree it's amazing stuff. I notice form the Hermitage Oils newsletter Adam sent out late last night that he's promoting Osmanthus absolute in it - I'll copy in his write-up for those that are interested. I must say it's inspired me to want to build a fragrance around it - perhaps for release next autumn . . . anyway here's the write-up, with suitably flowery language to match the material:

Quote:
Osmanthus Absolute

This is the absolute oil that makes a real statement and I regard it as the jewel in every perfumers crown. This is the ultimate timeless floral aromatic, as soon as you remove the cap from the bottle the world stops for you and Osmanthus exudes with one aim in mind which is to seduce you. For me the initial top note is somewhat fruity and sweet comparable maybe to eating yellow Mirabelle plums late in the summer. However it is the heart note that makes this utterly spectacular as I detect an infusion of sweet juicy Apricots, fresh cream and a thick helping of Greek Honey. This absolute is truly beautiful, incredibly tenacious and if allowed will stimulate you, inspire you and satisfy all of your floral desires.

This absolute is of Chinese Origin and is produced by solvent extraction of the fragrant flowers. The colour is golden yellow and it takes approximately 3000 kilos of flowers to produce just one kilo of this sensational absolute oil.
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post #10 of 13
12/12/12 at 9:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Bartlett View Post

I agree it's amazing stuff. I notice form the Hermitage Oils newsletter Adam sent out late last night that he's promoting Osmanthus absolute in it - I'll copy in his write-up for those that are interested. I must say it's inspired me to want to build a fragrance around it - perhaps for release next autumn . . . anyway here's the write-up, with suitably flowery language to match the material:


Happy that you want to do that, as I am kind of obsessed with osmanthus - is one of the olfactive memories that triggered my desire to learn perfumery. When you'll have done it, I'd love to try!
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post #11 of 13
12/14/12 at 7:49am
Thread Starter 
Hi Chris,
I've had mixed results with osmanthus absolute from different makers. Can you tell me where you get yours? It sounds spectacular. So far I have too examples, one from Enfleurage in New York and the other from White Lotus Aromatics. The one from White Lotus seems richer and more complex. What you're describing sounds even better.
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post #12 of 13
12/16/12 at 8:00pm
Tuberolactone comes to mind, esp since it is actually found in Osmanthus...

Advanced Biotech's Floraline Osmanthus Natural Replacer is a very good product...
See here:
http://www.adv-bio.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProdNo=1430


You can look through the GC of the Absolute for ideas here:
http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/gca/gc1000081.html
(Albeit it doesn't list the Tuberolactone I mentioned above...)

Paul Kiler


- - - Updated - - -

Oh Yes, Apritone is available... but I do prefer my Osmanthus a little bit more on the drier side than the wet juicy fruity side...
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post #13 of 13
12/17/12 at 1:37am
So less of the juicy fruits and more of the dry fruits (like delta damascone).
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