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What is your favorite version of Mitsouko?

post #1 of 20
12/12/12 at 8:01pm
Thread Starter 
I'm trying to decide between the current EDP and vintage EDT, it seems like there's a lot of those on Ebay now.
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post #2 of 20
12/12/12 at 8:40pm
There was a talk about Guerlain having found a way to reintroduce oakmoss in an IFRA compliant way, but I don't think I've heard anybody say that the current version manages to do that. Without that, vintage whatever is probably the way to go.

cacio
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post #3 of 20
12/12/12 at 9:08pm
Older Extrait or PdT work best for me.

I wouldn't mind getting a gallon of vintage EDC, come to think of it.
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post #4 of 20
12/12/12 at 9:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

Older Extrait or PdT work best for me.

I wouldn't mind getting a gallon of vintage EDC, come to think of it.

Listen to this man. He speaks with great wisdom.
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post #5 of 20
12/12/12 at 9:41pm
Old PdT and new Extrait.
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post #6 of 20
12/12/12 at 9:44pm
Old extrait, if you can find it.
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post #7 of 20
12/13/12 at 12:11am
I actually really liked the vintage edt, it has a sparkling vibe bright sunny warm.
Vintage edp, think 80s for both if possible.

I love the extract no matter how old.
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post #8 of 20
12/13/12 at 3:05am
I smelled the most recent version of Mitsouko last week in Fortnums. It was a pathetic cartoon of a once truly great fragrance. If you can get some vintage (the older version the better), then grab it.
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post #9 of 20
12/13/12 at 5:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cacio View Post

There was a talk about Guerlain having found a way to reintroduce oakmoss in an IFRA compliant way ...

Don't tease us like that, C.

Vintage extrait.

I like the current edp okay, but, still boo-hoo.
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post #10 of 20
12/13/12 at 8:55am
I would take any vintage version, because I have not smelled these and I love Mitsouko, but I have the current EDP and love it. If a vintage EDP version is better then I would snatch it up!
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post #11 of 20
12/13/12 at 9:33am
I thought that there was a recent version of Mitsouko that used treemoss instead of oakmoss, and that this is the bad one. Then, Guerlain was able to source some oakmoss that is IFRA compliant and the Mitsouko using this are much better.

Thierry Wasser mentions this in the interview last year:

http://www.basenotes.net/content/919...Thierry-Wasser
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post #12 of 20
12/13/12 at 9:50am
Thanks, rubegon. Here's a quote from that link for everyone's reference. It's just so sad.

My love for Mitsouko made me push the oakmoss supplier to get as close as possible to the original version without having the specific molecule which is not allowed by IFRA. I do have now a natural oakmoss which is IFRA approved.

Due to the IFRA regulations, there are some materials that I cant even purchase anymore! Even if I wanted to make a reconstitution of a vintage Guerlain in the way it was originally created, I cant find the raw materials! They are gone, the oil, the oil companies and growers are all long gone or discontinued.

You know, strictly for my own sake and education, I wanted to recompound Mitsouko, Shalimar, and LHeure Bleue in their original forms but getting the raw materials required was not easy.

I went to Calabria and asked a supplier to provide me with the raw bergamot oil before any processing and I would able to recompound those classics. I also sourced some Musk Ambrette down in India. You have no idea of the amount of time, energy and patience it takes to track down practically non-existent raw materials and suppliers just to have them for my own use and knowledge to use in trials. These are ingredients that IFRA has deemed illegal for release to the general public, so even if I wanted to release a vintage version of a Guerlain fragrance, we cannot do so because of legislation.
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post #13 of 20
12/13/12 at 4:34pm
EDC is wonderful and I also adore the older EDT. The current EDP is acceptable
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post #14 of 20
12/14/12 at 3:49am
Only know and own EDT and it's awesome. Can only imagine how much the other versions would tickle all the right places.
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post #15 of 20
12/14/12 at 5:05am
My most favorite version is older EdC from the 50s but it is very rare now (purplebird reviewed mine under Mitsouko in the Directory), with creamy peaches and soft moss. The second best is older extrait.
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post #16 of 20
12/17/12 at 8:37pm
You won't go wrong either way (vintage or current). The current edp still smells fantastic, and yes, mossy.
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post #17 of 20
12/18/12 at 4:32pm
One thing to keep in mind is that Mitsouko is one of the fragrances that does not age as well as some other vintage fumes. I try to buy the edp from the 60's - 80's, though truly today's edp is very fine.
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post #18 of 20
12/19/12 at 1:33pm
Actually, the extrait version is the only one I like - the others have a coumarin-type note that doesn't sit well with me. The extrait is the one which opened up everything devotees had been expressing.
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post #19 of 20
12/19/12 at 3:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubal View Post

One thing to keep in mind is that Mitsouko is one of the fragrances that does not age as well as some other vintage fumes. I try to buy the edp from the 60's - 80's, though truly today's edp is very fine.

Yes, the current edp is still great; it is of excellent quality and still has an intense mossiness.
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post #20 of 20
12/22/12 at 9:08am
I have said many times that Mitsouko is one of the few fragrances where I like every single version of it that I have smelled (well, except for that flanker Guerlain did, the Fleur one...which I have not smelled yet). The EdC, EdT, EdP and extrait (new and vintage) are all splendid. NOTE: Many Mitsouko that is vintage has turned slightly in the top notes so you have to be careful when buying on eBay.

If I had to pick one, it would be vintage Extrait. It has a green, medicinal, sharp intensity to it that sort of intensifies for quite a while before the peach/moss rushes in. For a few minutes it doesn't smell like a chypre or like itself...but some sort of poisonous, spiky, harsh smell. Which I love.
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