I need your advice, vintage colognes!!

No expert here, but of the ones I'm familiar with from your list, I'd jump all over the following at that price without thinking twice about it:
Capucci Punjab
R de Capucci;
Moods Krizia;
Le 3` Homme de Caron;
Balenciaga Ho Hang;
Sagamore Lancôme;
Dali Pour Homme;
Phileas Nina Ricci.

The ones below would be my choices.

Francesco Smalto (original);
Le 3` Homme de Caron;
Balenciaga Ho Hang;
Sport de Paco Rabanne;
Paco Energy;
Paco Rabanne - Eau de Metal pour Homme;
Sagamore Lancôme;
Charles Jourdan Pour Homme;
Lacoste Land;
Lacoste Original;
Dali Pour Homme;
Phileas Nina Ricci.

As far as investment value, all of those are afaik worth more than 20 Euros. So on that level, I would definitely get as many as you can afford.

As far as ones I like, my picks are

Vendetta awesome! like a sharper, classier Z-14
Phileas
Lacoste Land

I don't know what you like personally, but as far as hard to find and rare :

Capucci Punjab and Boss Spirit are ones of note. I rarely see them for sale. The Boss is a bit strong, however

I like Vendetta ( just like MonkeyBars !). Very nice fragrance. So different than what is out now ( well, actually all of them are).

Interesting with the Ferrari's. Never heard of those two.

Phileas, Troisemme Homme and Dali, absolutely.

I would recommend these 20, based both on quality and rarity, but all of them are worth acquiring at the price you are getting them for.

Capucci Punjab;
R de Capucci;
Moods Krizia;
Vendetta Uomo;
Le 3` Homme de Caron;
Borsalino;
Borsalino Chapeau;
Balenciaga Ho Hang;
Sport de Paco Rabanne;
Paco Energy;
Paco Rabanne - Eau de Metal pour Homme
Sagamore Lancôme;
Luciano Soprani Uomo;
Charles Jourdan Pour Homme;
Boss Spirit;
Bugatti;
Lacoste Land;
Giorgio VIP Reserve;
Aqua Lambara (Diego Palma);
Phileas Nina Ricci.

I would single out 3eme homme (which is excellent also in the current formulation, but the price is really good), Eau de Metal (one of my favorite perfumes: green green oily. If the store had the regular Metal, even better, it's more intense). Then Ho Hang and Sagamore.

cacio

Yes -

I agree with most of these, if not all at that price! Take advantage and let us know what you end up with...

Cheers,

ericrico

I haven't smelled even close to all of them, but of those I *have* sniffed Giorgio VIP would top my list, joined by Le 3' Homme, New West for Him and Sport de Paco Rabanne.

Sagamore, Vendetta, Le 3, Ho Hang... Nice deal

I would advise you especially not to miss out on the following ~

Aqua Lambara ~ A sensational tobacco fragrance that is ultra rare !!!!!!
Boss Spirit
Ho Hang
Punjab
Lacoste Land
R de Capucci
Paco Rabanne Metal, (I am certain that this is a womens fragrance and there was never a mens version ~ however very wearable for a man and very beautiful)
Sagamore

Re: Metal, I think the list refers to Eau de Metal, a lighter version,that was indeed at some point marketed to men (though it's very close to the regular Metal, just lighter).

cacio

Wow, thanks ~ I never heard of a mens version before !

Out of curiosity I dug my bottle out and there's no indication that it is for men. I also have the deodorant spray, (in the same shape bottle as the edt and nowhere on the box does it say men or homme?) Perhaps this was a lighter version of Metal for women ?

Hello david -

Yes, indeed. It was marketed towards men, but truly a wonderful unisex scent, to me. Brilliant hyacinth, jasmine, galbanum and oakmoss with a radiant glow of amber and clean musk. Hard to 'define', but a chypre or floral scent for sure. I love it in the warm days of spring and summer.

My friend, cacio, was so kind in sending a sample of Metal to me (thank you, again!)...and I was able to finally find and acquire Eau de Metal. Definitely a unique and wonderfully bright floral composition - my Jungian Static Feminine archetype took front seat while my Dynamic Masculine relaxed its macho ego for the wearing. It is very harmonious and a Vintage Paco Rabanne release worth seeking out.

Not one I see myself reaching for often (but when I do - it is wonderful), but my wife enjoys it after a shower and as a morning scent in the warm weather. Longevity is fair (a nice skin scent after 3-4 hours or so) but nice projection for the first 90 minutes with a moderate application.

Cheers to you both,

ericrico

Thanks ericrico, yes this is probably my favourite green fragrance. I personally find it far superior to no. 19 and the likes, but I question whether it really was a mens fragrance ? There is no indication on my packaging of spray deo or edt, (and I'm talking about the "Eau" version) Surely they would have used the word homme or men to indicate that it was so intended ?

David, my friend -

Here is the one verifiable link that discusses the marketing toward men. An Aldehydic Floral with a wonderful, bright, uplifting personality and character...created (if you read farther down) in 1986 when marketed to men. I believe this is for the clear bottle (no white border) and the red "Pr" logo and lettering on it.

http://pinkmanhattan.blogspot.com/20...nd-thanks.html

Here is a picture of the bottle referred to (and similar to the one I have) - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eau-De-Metal...item2a2589d5f6

Cheers,

ericrico

Thanks again ericrico. I checked the link and the person also states that ~ to their surprise, the website, (where they sourced the information) says that both Eau de Metal, AND !!!!!...... Metal, were mens fragrances. I am REALLY sure that this source of information is incorrect. I have also noticed many sources that list Calandre as a mens fragrance. This is also incorrect.
Michael Edwards and the H and R geneology chart lists Metal and Calandre as womens fragrances.

Dali, Balenciaga & No. 3 for certain!

You're welcome, David.

Yes - I know this individual states that, but states in their posting some good perspective (and some interesting scent pyramids) on Metal - as a women's scent. Personally, I think Metal (for me) is for a woman, but Eau de Metal is truly unisex.

That link they quoted is, unfortunately, a dead link...but they put forth some interesting information and thought.

This is one I leave up to the moment. There have been warmer days when I was in a full-wearing of another scent and I sprayed just a couple shots of Eau de Metal near my elbow. It showed so well, my full-wearing took a back seat for a while as I was enthralled by the beauty of it.

Perhaps a woman's fragrance, but definitely unisex with the right mood and setting. This is truly a unique fragrance, which lends even more validity to the unisex paradigm...at least from my perspective.

Hard to find info on it. Interesting it is probably your favourite green fragrance - I admire your taste.

Fragrance during this time period from France was very cutting-edge in "design", but had a nice rich classicism in the composition. Those days are behind us...

Cheers,

ericrico

Hi

Do they have any bottles of Lui Rochas left? I noticed you bought some a few weeks ago.

The stand-out for me is Giorgio VIP Reserve, though I've only tried a handful of those you have listed.

give us the address we will come to lend you an hand!

Tania Sanchez in her book says that the current Troisieme homme is less floral. I have smelled vintage and current, and I must say I didn't find such a big difference (the aftershave was indeed more floral, but it was just an aftershave). In any case, even if the current were the same, for that price it's a steal.

cacio

Please do not misunderstand me ericrico, I really admire your enormous depth of knowledge regarding fragrances and I totally agree with you that Eau de Metal is very wearable as a unisex fragrance for a man, (in fact I would also go so far as to say that Metal too is very wearable for a man). I think most green fragrances are in my view technically unisex, although many are classified as womens. Other favourites I wear are Jean Louis Scherrer and Alix Gres, though Metal and Eau de Metal are probably my favourites.

- - - Updated - - -


I don't know about the ferrari's you have mentioned, (unless you are refering to the yellow and red packaging one's ? ~ I am personally not so keen on them).
If the shop happens to have Ferrari Cuvee, I strongly recommend it !
I used to have the Bugatti,(in the blue packaging) and highly recommend it. A beautiful soapy lemon fragrance. I think for this fragrance 20 euros is the normal retail price, (but well worth it).
I have never heard of or tried Roberto Verino or Lucifer. Please describe them to us all if you buy them. I am also interested to know about the Maserati's and the Ferrari's, (if they are not the red and yellow packaging).
Best Wishes, David.

Fantastic!

Happy Holidays - you will be smelling wonderful for sure!

Cheers,

ericrico


- - - Updated - - -

Hello David -

Thank you, my friend. I greatly admire your incredible depth of knowledge and passion as well. I didn't misunderstand you. On the contrary, I was actually admiring your perspective and personal love of this scent..."Interesting it is probably your favourite green fragrance - I admire your taste." After thinking more and going back through the memory, I decided to re-sample the nice decant from cacio of Metal in a small atomizer he so kindly sent me. I first tried it with my wife and it was gorgeous on her. I liked it on me, a lot...but the connection was with her - looking for a bottle now as a gift for New Year's or perhaps Valentine's Day.

I just sprayed some on my arm (just a small spray rubbed around on my upper forearm)...this is sensational! Yes - although Eau de Metal is lighter and more "approachable" as a scent, Metal itself is indeed an incredible Unisex scent. This is interesting as I am in a wearing (from late last night, I refreshed a bit), Gucci Pour Homme Original, 1976. The power of Metal on my forearm is radiant! It is much deeper than Eau de Metal, which I have worn several times as I mentioned (including isolated sprays like this for pure enjoyment). My wife will come home soon - as she is out gift shopping. I will ask her what she thinks of it, just for curiosity sake.

The other scents you mentioned - yes, they too are definitely Unisex also. Jean Louis Scherrer is one I have smelled and thought was wonderful.

Your taste is fantastic, David. This is going to stay on my arm the whole day...I may have to buy a "gift for us", as I've done in the past with wonderful unisex fragrances on special occasions. The aroma is so focused and brilliant - floral, yes...but the aldehydes, galbanum and moss are really expressing themselves beautifully. It is storming, windy and raining, outside and I have a classic Chypre on my neck and wrists (Gucci PH) and an incredible Vintage Aldehydic Floral that is fully unisex in my warm home. I smell like a gentleman in an outdoor flower garden with incredible green aromas swirling around and florals wafting to my nose on a warm sun-filled day in late Spring.

Stunning.

Thank you, David (and my appreciation again to cacio!). Yes, Eau de Metal AND Metal are truly incredible Unisex compositions with great notes and harmony.

Cheers,

ericrico

It just so happens that Capucci Pour Homme is my SOTD. Love it, always have. There's a carnation note just after the top notes burn off that makes this extremely suave, warm, and non-generic.

I think you should get your hands on all the Capucci scents you can. Totally under-rated house.

Also love Borsalino. I gifted it to a gentleman long ago and he said years later that this bottle was his gateway drug into the world of good fragrance.

Hi Jardanel -

Capucci Pour Homme is simply wonderful. I have written a lot about it - including on Fragrantica. I found this "lost" treasure with only two posted (and cobwebbed) reviews on Fragrantica and having tried R de Capucci, which impressed me.

A wonderful chypre, Capucci Pour Homme is. The composition does, indeed show brilliantly!

Here is a link to my review (and all the wonderful ones that came after) - http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/R...omme-6753.html - is it sheer coincidence that I put that on after a warm shower on a cold evening like last night's indulgence in Gucci Pour Homme Original? Maybe. I have continued that wearing today and am currently enjoying it while it continues to storm outside. I believe our minds like to sometimes off-set the cold, dreary darkness of a stormy night with a scent that evokes radiant beauty and its own sunshine...something only a fantastic Chypre can do.

Cheers,

ericrico

If i were in your shoes, would buy:


Francesco Smalto (original);


Ferrari 456;

Ferrari 512;


Moschino Vice-Versa;


Boss Spirit;


Aramis New West;


Dali Pour Homme;

Phileas Nina Ricci.

ericrico, It was most informative to see the pyramid on this scent; also to read the reviews. Cyclamen -that might be the elusive floral/green note I've always enjoyed in CpH.

Capucci Pour Homme really is one of the most versatile scents I have owned - it's classy enough to enhance any situation and never imposes itself unduly. I think this is the perfect "next step" scent for someone who loves classic eau de colognes but is ready for something with a little more body to it.

Very well said, Jardanel.

Glad you found something informative and worth-while. Personally, I think it is a mix of the florals and the very true note of West Indian Bay (bay leaf) that comes together in the heart with the wonderful smooth lavender. So, the accord you mention, in my humble opinion is from a number of notes in the composition creating a harmonious vibe. Lush, rich, green and floral...all on a bed of moss (I have both Oakmoss and Tree Moss as listed ingredients on my bottle's box - which is key).

Cheers and enjoy this fantastic scent. Perhaps one of the best, relatively unknown classic fragrances out there.

Tonight, I attended my boys' Christmas program at their school and in the Church. It was wonderful as we sat in a pew off to the side near the burning candles (lit for prayer)...I was in a very full and liberal wearing of Gucci Pour Homme I (2003) - radiating incense, peppery wood and amber while my beautiful wife wore a knock-out - Moschino for Women...spicy, rich and a wonderful Floral Woody Musk that really shows a nice green patchouli with galbanum, fresh pepper, amber, musk and a nice bouquet of florals. A strong and confident feminine scent - yet very alluring and very well-integrated.

Cheers,

ericrico

I am also a big fan of Metal (and Calandre) and have stockpiled some vintage bottles of each.

I agree that most green chypres marketed to women are suitable for men as well. In fact, this is one of my most favorite fragrance families.

These would be my picks.

Are you really saying you got all those frags from the one shop for 20 dollars each? Including Kouros Fraicheur?
Surely this cannot be

Even at 20 euros (not dollars), that's quite an amazing haul. Many of those are worth 5x and some even 10x what you paid.

I was going to recommend Le 3` Homme de Caron; and Dali Pour Homme;
But I see the deal's been done, congrats, hope you like some of them...

Paul Kiler

^^ vintage fragrance porn! Thanks for the pics and congratulations on your impressive haul!


Quite possibly a basenoter..

I wrote up a post on my blog about fragrance "vintage hunting." The great thing is that if you are patient you should never have to worry about losing money on the purchases, unless of course you break a bottle !

I found some more great deals near me recently too. Vendetta pH is terrific! Very underappreciated here, too.

Nice job!

Wow, man, instant vintage collection! Not only quantity, but quality, too. What a great deal!

I own nearly everything pictured above, but it took me years of searching (and higher prices usually paid) to find most of them.

You've made a really nice collection of vintages. I envy you.

you lucky, lucky bastard...

I love vintage frags too! I have a a few good men's vintage frags, but I love unisex frags and have a great collection of feminine vintage frags. I love the hunt and your collection, which is fabulous, has renewed my fire for more vintage frags. Thanks! Enjoy and Congratulations!

southerngardens

...for myself I only would have taken 'Le Troisième Homme' by Caron...!

Beg or borrow and buy all the available parfums for the 20Euro per piece price tag - u can probably bargain and bring it down to 15-17 per piece if u bought all of those - every item on this list are worth more than 20, so even if you don't plan on keeping them, u can sell them for a profit.

From this list, I'd recommend, as purchases, especially: Francesco Smalto (original), Capucci Pour Homme, Moods Krizia, Sport de Paco Rabanne, Paco Rabanne - Eau de Metal pour Homme, Bugatti, Lacoste Original, Dali Pour Homme.

Congrats on the new additions! Great pickup of Tuscany Forte. It's fantastic and getting very difficult to find and rather expensive.