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Sweet & Sour (in the same fragrance) chypre?

post #1 of 13
1/6/13 at 4:02pm
Thread Starter 
To my suprise, I am starting to really like rue cambon (I know it is not considered a traditional chypre as its sans oakmoss) for its sweet/sour element, its quite addictive!

The sweet/sour juxtaposition....mmm!

I normally dislike sharp bitter fragrances with petitgrain or galbanum - aromatics elixir and eau de campagne for example are still really too much for me, ormonde woman to me was not sweet or sour, it was green.

I need a little sweetness in the mix - sandalwood or benzoin or fig, an oriental chypre, perhaps?

Can you please recommend any others for me to try that are sweet/sour chypres?
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post #2 of 13
1/6/13 at 10:13pm
The best oriental chypré to me is Vol de Nuit Extrait (current is fine).
How about Mitsouko Extrait? The current is nice enough IMO, in fact I rather dislike the vintage for its too earthy feel.

- - - Updated - - -

The best oriental chypré to me is Vol de Nuit Extrait (current is fine).
How about Mitsouko Extrait? The current is nice enough IMO, in fact I rather dislike the vintage for its too earthy feel.
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post #3 of 13
1/6/13 at 11:49pm
Sous le Vent might be worth checking out . . . the current version is not a full bodied chypre per se but it might sit on the edges of your definition.

And Solange Cosmic is a bombshell, on the other hand - lots of fun!
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post #4 of 13
1/7/13 at 12:30am
Yes, 31 Rue Cambon!!!! To be honest I find it very similar to original Rochas Femme before the 1989 reformulation. It has that smooth leather vibe and then the stewed prunes.

Okay, not a chypre but SL Douce Amere really has the sweet sour vibe going on.
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post #5 of 13
1/7/13 at 1:57am
Donna, Douce Amere was the first one to spring into my mind as well.
It is an amazing scent if you don't mind it being an oriental instead of a
chypre.
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post #6 of 13
2/15/13 at 12:07pm
Mitsouko and Sous le Vent.
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post #7 of 13
2/15/13 at 1:09pm
galwaygirl, I read the thread title and opened this to suggest...31 rue Cambon!!! I am not surprised you like it, as our taste is similar I think.

And I will take note of these suggestions, as I also dislike traditional chypre sourness (and oakmoss ).

I already own and love Douce Amere, so don't skip that one even though it does not really fit your requirements for this.

- - - Updated - - -

galwaygirl, I read the thread title and opened this to suggest...31 rue Cambon!!! I am not surprised you like it, as our taste is similar I think.

And I will take note of these suggestions, as I also dislike traditional chypre sourness (and oakmoss ).

I already own and love Douce Amere, so don't skip that one even though it does not really fit your requirements for this.
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post #8 of 13
2/15/13 at 2:30pm
Thread Starter 
Thank you for the recommendations guys! I must revisit Mitsouko & Douce Amere and sample Sous le Vent (held off on odrering samples for a while, and now with the new postage restrictions, I probably cannot order from US or Germany anyway :-(

Cello, yes I think we have very similar taste in fragrances (you so need to try terre de l'encens - I think you would really like it!). Another basenoter and I had planned on doing a sample pass of it but these new postal restrictions have put a stop to our perfume fun!

Douce Amere was a funny one for me, it was one of the first samples I got because I like anise in fragrances (loulou blue was my first love fragrance, it was all anise & bergamot) but douce amere was pure anise wormwood. Still, I have changed my mind on other fragrances so I will go dig out my sample...
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post #9 of 13
2/15/13 at 3:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

Sous le Vent

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larimar View Post

Vol de Nuit Extrait (current is fine)..

^^^ these two. In more modern territories I'd suggest:

Devil In Disguise
Jubilation 25
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post #10 of 13
2/15/13 at 4:08pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfarom;2846842[B

Devil In Disguise[/B]

Liking the sound of this, the notes look interesting:

Top Notes Rhubarb leaves, Ginger

Middle Notes Magnolia, Neroli

Base Notes Patchouli, Vetiver, Musk
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post #11 of 13
2/16/13 at 9:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larimar View Post

The best oriental chypré to me is Vol de Nuit Extrait (current is fine).

This ^. In my opinion, it is everything that you described that you want, in a perfume. Plus, the new version on shelves is very, very good.
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post #12 of 13
2/16/13 at 7:21pm
I thought about Bottega Veneta, which I am actually wearing today. It has this sour accord, counter-balanced by the sweetness (but not too much) of ripe fruit. Don't worry about the leather or suede; it is subtle, at least to me.
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post #13 of 13
2/17/13 at 11:12am
Ume by Keiko Mecheri, a sweet/sour/tangy Japanese plum, described in the KM literature as "A variation fruity chypre accord (with) a dash of wisteria and camellia..."
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