King of Oakmoss: what is the best oakmoss dominated perfume in your opinion ?

Mitsouko by Guerlain, vintage extrait of course.

Trumpers Eucris and Murdocks Fougere have a good dose of oakmoss that can be smelled without having to track down old vintage frags.

Some that I own are AdP Colonia Essenza and Aventus. I also have Azzaro PH. All of them have a nice play on oakmoss, but it's too close to call for me between the AdP and Aventus.

Gah, beat me to it

Easily the best oakmoss frag I own - I find that the heartnotes of Aventus are quite similar to Eucris (the blackcurrant and oakmoss combo).
Although I find Eucris to be more linear (and less long-lasting) than Aventus, who really cares when it has such a fantastic accord for the majority of its (still very good) longevity?

I like my Aventus, but I love my Eucris.

Another for Eucris. Love that juice.

Just a guess - Teasing by Melfleurs

Ghiadilev & N`Aimez Que Moi (extract) but in the dry down.

a-b-s-o-l-u-t-e-l-y

P-o-s-i-t-i-v-e-l-y

Adding also C&S Oxford and Cambridge.

Was hoping to try this out in London soon, so I may try and go this weekend. I love my Trumper's products. When I started wet shaving, I was using their stuff more or less exclusively.

The Eucris is definitely on my list and that includes the new(ish) shaving soap!!

Haven't tried that many, BUT;

Czech & Speake - Oxford & Cambridge

Is very good!


Edited- And I just put it on now, and smells fantastic. The lavender has a nice vibe to it.

Burberry London

Another vote for vintage Mitsouko. It's reference quality imo.

Eucris's moss is very strong, green-rotten, I'd say. Vintage Mitsouko is smooth and rich. And of course vintage Chypre has the thing in full view.

cacio

I have never smelled Eucris, I had no idea it was so oakmoss prominent.

only a question: when vintage Mitsouko is "vintage"? it exists since 1920..... until when, we can call "vintage Mitsouko"?

I agree. It is of reference quality!

Borrowing from Providence Perfume Co.:

"An Ode to Oakmoss...

Hello you sticky brown thing! You lichen you! How have you been? I'm sorry I ignored you all summer. You just weren't what I was looking for. My fingers rummaged through bottles and bottles of botanicals searching for just the right ingredients to make light summery perfumes: sparkling citruses, bold florals, green cool herbals and you were not desired. You were pushed to the back with your estranged sibling angelica. You were too deep and mossy and dark. But now, with the temperature falling along with multicolored leaves, you are just right."

I think the context here is unique and revealing...from a perfumer's nose and mind. However, I believe that Oakmoss is not seasonal, as someone who loves Oakmoss both as a note and as a fixative. Two cases in point I would like to mention are YSL Pour Homme and Eau Sauvage. Vintage bottles have wonderful, deep aromatic citrus compositions with herbs, spices, wood, vetiver and light florals - brilliance in both, but of course, each a very unique and historical fragrance. However, (and I would rather actually expound upon each separately, but for the sake of focusing on Oakmoss as a key missing note in current formulations of both) they are remarkably different today. The latest version of YSL Pour Homme no longer even has Oakmoss as a listed ingredient. I have recent juice from about 7 years ago of YSL Pour Homme - it was reformulated and still a very light touch of moss, but vetiver is the key base note...along with sandalwood, cedar, patchouli and a nice musk (that isn't totally clean). Eau Sauvage (from a reformulated bottle of a few years ago) was able to keep the freshness and wonderful hedione with the sparkling citrus and nice sharp herbs...and the base kept a light note of the maximum .1% of Oakmoss, had some nice damp tree moss, but is definitely shorter lived. The vetiver, sandalwood, light musk, green patchouli and amber do not last much. What was once a deep and gorgeous scent has been reformulated to a light Eau de Cologne strength bottle. I do not get great longevity with Vintage Eau Sauvage - but the depth of scent is so noticeably lighter. I do not judge brilliant and timeless compositions based on longevity typically, however...here, the missing fixative quality of Oakmoss both shortened the time you had with it and also the gorgeous richness that it used to offer. I will still wear Eau Sauvage and even layer current formulation with some precious Vintage...for, I refuse to let the memory go. Today, those of us who loves these scents seek out Vintage bottles for a reason.

'Twas the magical ingredient for so many decades of scent...opening noses of world to Guerlain's creation - Mitsouko. The aromatic fougeres were born with the fern in mind (for freshness) - but the damp Oakmoss was essential for the depth and fixative quality. Chypres cannot exist without moss, either. Scent, as a whole, will never be the same without it. And, the fact that IFRA banned Tree Moss as well effective 1/1/13...well, maybe the Mayans were right after all.

I have too many favorites to list, but wanted to mention the noticeable difference (for those of us who know, it is rhetorical) between two wonderful masculine aromatic citruses that have been forever altered. And, from a scent lover's perspective (mine) - how it differs from a perfumer's perspective. Oakmoss is a key ingredient in scents year-round, not just fall & winter...

Cheers,

ericrico

too many to list lol

I don't know if I'd say it's dominated by oakmoss, but Grey Flannel is probably my favorite use of oakmoss, ever.

Hi boys. Interesting thread. I have been thinking about Oakmoss recently too. I decided on Oxford and Cambridge to wear today. I think that the Original Paco Rabanne is good on oakmoss. We have a really old bottle in the house, must dig it out.

As far as I understand the original Paloma Picasso (for women) has a good oakmoss note too. Now I want to smell some actual oakmoss!

Great call! It certainly adds a lot of depth and character to the scent.

Hello Foustie -

In the realm of Aromatic Fougeres, Vintage Paco Rabanne offers a wonderful base that includes brilliant Oakmoss. However, my love for it (as I consider it my favorite masculine creation of all time)...is based upon the entire composition and the entirety of its rich base notes. Paco Rabanne displays excellent use of coumarin (Tonka bean), Amber, a warm Musk, Cistus, Lentisk, and a gorgeous Honeyed Tobacco note (not honey as a note itself).

But, without a second thought...yes, the Oakmoss in Paco Rabanne (as well as so many Aromatic Fougeres going back the original, Fougere Royale by Houbigant) is both essential and what makes the Vintage bottles so wonderful, still today.

By the way, you can get Oakmoss essential oil - here is one of very good quality (I am not the seller or anyway affiliated, by the way), but just trying to help point you in the right direction.

http://www.etsy.com/listing/10843142...FQ_hQgod0kgASg

And, on Ebay - a large list of places to go: http://compare.ebay.com/like/2003755...Types&var=sbar

Cheers,

ericrico



- - - Updated - - -

I fully concur - but only in Vintage Grey Flannel cologne. I found a bottle (labeled as "Cologne") in the fall...it wears so incredibly well. The violet, oakmoss and citrus come together with a feeling of naturalness - very organic texture. One could also roll in fresh-cut grass with morning dew on it to get this desired effect as well - while holding fresh-picked violets and squeezing lemon and bergamot onto their skin. ;-)

Cheers,

ericrico